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What do you guys think about this room for a potential projector setup? The couch was on the left, and I used to have a 60" TV but it died. On the other side of the wall behind the couch is the laundry room, so I figure I could actually mount the projector in that room, and just cut a small hole in the drywall for the lense to shoot through. (At the top of that wall there is a steel beam). I taped up some potential sizes to get a feel for it. 120 seemed massive AF, but 100 definitely seemed too small, so I'm thinking something in the 110 range. Elysium fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 21:26
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:44 |
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I figured having the projector on the other side of the wall would be a good thing, contain any fan noise and not have a projector overhead where it could be bumped or whatever. Plus the computer it would be hooked up to will likely be on that side of the wall as well. There’s nothing there (between studs) but a single piece of drywall. Setting up the projector before getting a screen is a great idea. I totally forgot I could do that. On screen size, I actually just remeasured and realized I hosed up the sizes, the big tape pictured was more like 140, 120 is a lot more reasonable. Is there any standards for how much room should be around the screen? Like currently where I have the tape, somewhat randomly, there is about 6 inches above the screen and a foot and a half below. Am I shooting for the middle of the screen to be head height? Elysium fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 23:30
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wolrah posted:Your upper bound will be determined by the projector and where it's mounted vertically. Different projectors shoot the image at different angles. From a ceiling-mounted perspective some put the top of the image directly in line with the lens centerline, some put it a few inches above, some put it a few inches below. AFAIK most DLPs are in the latter category. Unless the projector you choose has optical keystone adjustment you're going to need to keep this in mind because you do not want to be doing digital keystone adjustments on a trapezoidal image, the quality loss on any text or straight lines is immense. Looking into projector offsets, it seems this will put a damper on my plan to mount on the other side of the wall. Because of the beam between the walls at the top, the mounting position would potentially be too low, as illustrated by this example projector calculation:  (though this particular example is for a bigger screen than I would end up using, you can see how it could be a problem)
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Nov 6, 2019 21:51
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I just measured and the ceiling is 82”, the beam is about 9 inches and I would have to get a little bit of clearance under that so let’s say at best 10 inches. Which means that at an average of about 8” offset we’re talking about starting the top of the screen at 64”. Which is about enough room for a 120” screen if it’s only a few inches from the floor which seems suboptimal and at that point I’m curious about the beam spread being blocked by a coffee table.
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Nov 7, 2019 04:52
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Maybe I’m confused but what I’m seeing for offset is like https://www.avsforum.com/photopost/data/156811/9/99/998405ba_offset.png https://i.pinimg.com/originals/11/26/7e/11267e44df14a6f06c363e4405bfb0c8.jpg So the bottom (aka top if you are ceiling mounting) is higher (lower) than the center of the lens to start with. So starting from flush with the ceiling the top of the image would start at 8” below the top, and every inch the projector moves down the image moves correspondingly. Here's an example projector that seems like it would work (just based on the throw stats):  At 12'6 throw distance (which would place it just behind the wall) and within it's zoom range it will project a 120" screen. At this distance it has a -3" offset, so while ceiling mounted 3" lower than the center of the lens, but can be lense shifted up 8". So mounting 12" below the 82" ceiling, but projecting 5" higher than the center of the lens, the image would start 7" from the ceiling on the other wall and go down to 66", leaving 16" below the screen. Elysium fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Nov 8, 2019 |
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Nov 8, 2019 02:02
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Did something happen to cause prices to shoot up? I missed out on buying a 2050a for $599 a month or so ago, and then it was at $649 for a while and I was close to pulling the trigger, it's only $50... and then it shot up to $749 and it seems like a lot of comparable projectors went up as well.
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Jan 8, 2020 21:12
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So I've been waffling on purchase for a long time now... and I think I've waffled my way from buying a $700 projector to buying a ~$1300 projector (Epson 3200 or 3800). Mainly because of the significant lens shift features that will help a lot with my placement. Someone talk me out of it... or in. Also, I had planned on going 120" but aside from my SO thinking that's too big, I'm also waffling on that because of my limited ceiling height (82") meaning that there will be little room below the screen for my center channel. It would be very close to the floor. If I do 110, I gain about 5 more inches. Thoughts? Elysium fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 5, 2020 |
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Feb 5, 2020 21:27
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Ok, so I ended up getting the Epson 3200. Haven't really tested it much because my space is still under construction, but the pattern screen looks nice, and projecting at 120 seems like a great size. So my plan all along was to put the projector behind the wall, and the Epson is great for this because it projects to the middle of the screen, and has a ton of lens shift. So I can just place it upright on a shelf I made behind the wall and shift the image wherever I want, projecting through a nice circular hole. Like so (note, not exactly to scale and not the exact projector):   However when I was hatching this plan I failed to take into account something fairly important. This projector has it's exhaust vent on the front. This seems to be a real pain in my rear end and if the exhaust was in the back I would already be done.  My desired placement means it's venting right into the small cavity I made to slide the lense into position. It's not completely enclosed because of the hole in the front and the space around the projector, but Epson recommends 8" of clearance around the vent.  If I pull the projector back this far, I can no longer project through my circular hole in the front, and I would likely have to create a much larger rectangular hole to get the clearance I need for the picture, which wouldn't look as good and would let more noise through. Is this a crazy theory to add exhaust space behind the wall:  or should I just try some sort of front vent?  maybe something like this? 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Feb 14, 2020 |
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Feb 14, 2020 17:37
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So I finally got everything together (the bulk of the challenge was refinishing the entire basement, walls, carpet, etc). I settled on a simple open shelf/cubby for the projector for now. It just vents out the front and is definitely audible when nothing is playing, but you don't notice if there is any sound.   I did actually mount the screen after taking these pictures (by myself!). I created a removable blackout board for the window in the back. I don't really have anything to compare it to projector wise, so I can't much comment on the quality of the image, but it is certainly big, and bright as gently caress. Is it too big? Who knows, maybe. Casual TV watching will be interesting. The amount of lens shift from this projector (the main reason I picked it) was pretty key in getting it projected where I wanted. I think it would have been a loving nightmare trying to ceiling mount a projector through the cubby and get it aligned correctly. The only sound system I have at the moment is some hand me down stuff (the reciever has S-video and Component inputs... lol) and a handy cinder block, but hey it plays sound. One thing I've noticed browsing home cinema stuff is that people seem 98% concerned with the sound system compared to anything else and put in the budgets to match. Kind of boggles my mind, I just want to watch big movies you know? I booted this up for a few minutes and it was pretty awesome: 
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Mar 5, 2020 20:03
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So I'm not sure I'm 100% happy with the black levels/contrast I'm getting. How much of that do you think is due to the white ceiling? Painting it dark got vetoed. This video kind of blew me away: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1692721894385217 Could I get some of that same effect with just like a few feet of velvet on the ceiling?
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Mar 6, 2020 19:40
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If you check the above pictures, I went with 120 and actually ended up with a fair amount of room for the center channel (which is now mounted on a small shelf instead of a cinder block). I mean I'm sure it's terrible positioning by audio standards that I don't care about at all, but it seems fine. I'm actually considering moving the screen down a few inches because it's so close to the ceiling and I think it would be a slightly better viewing angle a little lower. Also, I'm going to try to black velvet on the ceiling to help with contrast issues, but I'm kind of regretting not getting a refurb 5040ub instead of the 3200. I'm already outside the return window because I ordered it very early to help with set up/construction issues before I could ever really test it out. These photos illustrate my ceiling issues: Ok (but not great) blacks where the top of the screen is showing a dark image:  Obvious washout whenever the ceiling is reflecting something bright: 
Elysium fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 18:30
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Projector technology is pretty good now and can give a nice image under a lot of suboptimal conditions, but projecting in a sunlit room is fighting an uphill battle, that’s just physics. It will not compare even remotely to an OLED in that same space. The point of a projector is to get image sizes that are not obtainable by TV methods.
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Aug 10, 2020 07:22
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space marine todd posted:Ah wow, I should have specified a budget. I was thinking of getting something from Silver Ticket (~$200-$300), but there are so many options in terms of material type/gain/color and I have no idea which one to get. I have a 120” Silver Ticket, standard white material. I think it looks pretty nice, but I have never seen one of the more expensive ones so I have nothing to compare it to. It was nicely packaged and goes together well, the screen is nice and taut and flat. I’m not sure what else I could comment on without doing a side by side.
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Dec 8, 2020 01:24
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As a pixel shift 4K owner I’ll try not to be too biased, but I don’t think there is inherently an issue with the technology unless you are buying it “because” it’s “4K” and not because “it has the features you want at your price point.” For example, I needed a large lens shift capability, which this had, plus it had a new chip for better HDR and other stuff. Cheaper 1080p ones didn’t have those features, and the ones that did were in an entirely higher price tier.
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Dec 8, 2020 02:41
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:44 |
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What does a $1-$2k screen actually, uh, do? I have a $250 fixed screen, it seems decent, I’m sure it could have better ambient light rejection or contrast enhancement or color accuracy, but like what percent better experience are you getting for an 800% increase in cost? Regular projector over here.
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Oct 4, 2023 01:55
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