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You run engines at max RPM for takeoff and emergency power only. Once you get some altitude roll back the RPM's to something sensible like 75-80% and decrease the throttle a bit. Once you climb higher you can reduce the RPM's even further and manage the throttle to get the speed you want. Think of it like a car engine, you don't sit in 1st gear revving the poo poo out of it, you shift up a gear. For aircraft it's sort of like the reverse, the higher and faster you get - the less power you need to stay aloft/climb. Otherwise you're running the parts at their max for too long and the engine will overheat/disintegrate.
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Oct 25, 2014 14:00
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| # ? May 5, 2024 11:56 |
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As someone who is just content to watch their HE111 get the crap shot out of it over and over again, I noticed that while the Laggs seem to know how to avoid me now, LA-5 AI planes are still perplexed as to how to get around my fat rear end. In instant action, I was just throwing my HE111 vs a single enemy fighter, and throwing it into external and auto level to watch the carnage, and the LA-5 would come in, blast the crap out of me, then proceed to fly right into my tail. It is actually quite amusing. Also, something that is fun to do is see the effect of different elevations on how accurate the flak is. They did a pretty good job of it. I would go into instant action and fly straight and level over a flak battery, and would get slaughtered until I got above 2500, at which point I only got heavily damaged. It is also good practice for damage management.
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Oct 26, 2014 02:21
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Geisladisk posted:Which dial is the "your plane is about to catch fire you loving retard" one on the Bf-109? I've only played Il-2 1946 and War Thunder, both of which give you a HUD indication when you overheat. Some 109s have a sort of color coded meter that's labeled green-yellow-red which iirc is on the upper right of your panel. I think the single needle actually reads two separate things from oil temp to something else but as long as you don't push into the red you should be alright. Other than that, I think most German planes had a circular dial with little tick marks that represented the optimal temp range... which is most likely how the 190 is setup in this game though I haven't flown it much so I don't really know. Just look for a little °C in a circular dial. There should be a few of them from blue to brown to black but I forget what exactly each represents. They all seem tied to how hard you're pushing the throttle so it isn't really too hard to manage. edit: btw I'm pretty sure these all work properly in War Thunder as well, but the ones in certain 190s are hard to see without a TrackIR because they're basically stuffed under other instruments in the lower middle. Thief fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 02:56
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Is this a $60 game, or is a pay for beta game? Thinking of pulling the trigger, but it seems expensive when the original is holding up fine for me.
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Oct 26, 2014 04:31
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so it's 2 cents cheaper to buy the standard edition, then buy the other planes individually. Than it is to buy the premium edition with them included. Nice incentive scheme
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Oct 26, 2014 04:49
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So? Basically its set up so you can buy the normal version, then if you decide you really wanted those other two planes afterall, you can buy them without having to pay more than if you'd bought them all at once. I do not see the problem with that. It'd be cool if the special edition was cheaper, sure. If a few bucks discount is making or breaking it for you, just wait for a steam sale.
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Oct 26, 2014 05:35
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Not fussed, just expect more out of a premium edition. I'll be buying all the planes anyway, just like everyone else.
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Oct 26, 2014 06:28
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Finally made the switch over to full realism and it's a lot more fun. Spent the first campaign messing around getting used to the dynamics and I'm on to part 2 and I've made the switch. It's so much more rewarding spotting enemy planes and having to actually keep track of my navigation. I'll admit this first mission I got lost on my way back from the intercept mission after a wingman shot down an IL-2 (I at least got some shots off). Ended up flying over my airfield not sure if it was the correct base finally said gently caress it and turned back to land at said base and it ended up being right. Any tips for navigation? It's easy to get thrown off in the heat of battle, but I try to use landmarks and headings to estimate. Also when landing I've been having issues spinning out from engine torque, I can counter this just fine on takeoff but on landing I always bend a wing.
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Oct 27, 2014 06:24
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Popete posted:Finally made the switch over to full realism and it's a lot more fun. Spent the first campaign messing around getting used to the dynamics and I'm on to part 2 and I've made the switch. It's so much more rewarding spotting enemy planes and having to actually keep track of my navigation. I'll admit this first mission I got lost on my way back from the intercept mission after a wingman shot down an IL-2 (I at least got some shots off). Ended up flying over my airfield not sure if it was the correct base finally said gently caress it and turned back to land at said base and it ended up being right. Landmarks are the only real way of doing it. If you find you're flying missions from loads of different airbases, and only once or twice, that doesn't strike me as particularly realistic anyway. Surely real pilots didn't need to deal with that.
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Oct 27, 2014 07:36
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Popete posted:
Getting on the ground and being alive is a victory, wings are optional.
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Oct 27, 2014 18:45
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This game runs beautifully at 4k with SLI Geforce 970s. Unfortunately, the LOD boundaries are a lot more obvious when you have that much pixel density. Anyone know if there's a way to manually crank up the view distances?
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Oct 28, 2014 00:22
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You'll get no help from me, mr "boo hoo I've maxed out everything on my $1000 graphics cards and now I can't make the game look even better" e: and so it is confirmed that there is no way to host a private game right now, yeah? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 23:00
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El Perkele posted:I just constructed my own LED tracker clip! This is seriously really, really easy and cheap - depending on what you have at hand. I tested it in War Thunder (IL2 DBW - DCG seems to crash, gotta fix those .inis) and it really helps. Suck it, 109G! Oh, and this was from the previous thread but I wanted to say congrats and neato. Not dissimilar from the first head-tracker I put together. 3x normal alkaline AA batteries will give you from ~4.8 volts (fully charged) to ~3.3 volts (empty). You should calculate your resistors for that voltage range to ensure that you have enough light when the batteries are partly depleted, but also so you don't blow them out when fully charged. I use two rechargeable AAAs, which give me about 2.2 to 2.8 volts over their lifetime. My LEDs are 1.3v each, in parallel, and I use a 47 ohm resistor on each one -- about 32mA per diode at full charge. 100mA draw across all three gives about 8-10 hours of on time before it needs recharging, which is more than I can stand to play for, but the batteries are easily swappable of course. Parallel is better because you don't need as many batteries, but as long as your diodes are matched there's no harm in doing them in series. I also use a PS3 Eye as my webcam, though with a different lens on it and an internal IR filter. The LEDs I use are 10mm in diameter to give a larger target (this was especially necessary because I have all my stuff hooked up to a big HDTV about five feet away, so the camera image is a little wide). However, 10mm LEDs also project a much more focused beam than the smaller ones, with something like a 5 degree cone of maximum intensity. This causes problems where the apparent brightness decreases as you move your head off-axis, making the camera lose tracking. So to fix that, I sawed off the front half of each diode, and filed and sanded them down to effectively make a diffused wide-angle lens. Makes a huge difference in off-axis visibility:  Now I don't lose tracking until my head is turned so far that the diodes themselves are occluded, which only happens when I can't see the screen anyway. I started out with a model made from plastic straws, then switched to soldered coat hanger wires, and now I've got a new 3D printed frame design that the LEDs just snap into. If anyone has a 3D printer or access to one and is interested in the model, I can probably figure out a way to post it. I've used every possible version of free face-tracking software since FreeTrack was new and OpenTrack is much better than FTNoIR if you ask me. It's still not perfect but it's the most reliable one I've found. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Nov 4, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 23:42
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Sagebrush posted:You'll get no help from me, mr "boo hoo I've maxed out everything on my $1000 graphics cards and now I can't make the game look even better" No hosting yet. Hence why this thread is silent. There just is not a lot of value right now in MP sense. When hosting comes out, I'm sure it will get more lively.
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Nov 9, 2014 08:54
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My Sunday IL2 sessions start again pretty much as soon as we can host private games or a lot of people start asking for the old IL2. Today is already scheduled for Falcon 4. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 16:37
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The fire effects on the fuselage are little iffy but otherwise the game is stunning. http://gfycat.com/HandyLegalGiraffe
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Nov 10, 2014 12:26
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So im thinking of going balls deep and springing for a track IR. Would someone be willing to give me the run down on if its worth it or not? Manually moving the mouse or using the joystick isnt terrible but its not wonderfully immersive. Does it give you a truly gigantic advantage when it comes to pvp?
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Nov 14, 2014 18:09
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Sentinel posted:So im thinking of going balls deep and springing for a track IR. if you wanna flight sim and can afford it i would most def recommend a trackir. it's not really so much that moving a camera with a POV hat isn't workable, it's that you can throw more poo poo onto that that helps you use the systems, just more controls, and a pov hat is basically right at your thumb always so it's nice to have 8 functions to it i guess vOv
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Nov 14, 2014 18:26
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It's not going to instantly make you a cyber ace or anything, but it's a lot harder to be a cyber ace without at least some head tracking. Especially in WW2 sims where there's a lot of WVR dogfighting and you have to track your target all around you. Head tracking allows you to precisely and intuitively follow a target without really thinking about it and generally makes it much, much easier to maintain situational awareness. It also lets you take advantage of modern 6DoF cockpits, allowing you to move all around and get a better viewing angle on that guy on your six you might otherwise have missed. The key point here is just how fluid and intuitive it is and it does add a lot to immersion if that's your thing. As Ohsh says, it also frees up POV buttons on your joystick which varies from useful to near-essential depending on the sim and the stick. if you don't feel like laying out the ~$180 or whatever it's going for these days, there are some free options which work pretty well. If you happen to have a reasonable webcam (or better yet a PS3 Eye), you can get a pretty workable system going with something like opentrack which if memory serves me correctly is the current standard in free head tracking. If you can whip yourself up an IR beacon clip then you can probably get it to about 80-90ish percent of the way to Track IR. Probably for under $30. It is a lot fiddlier though.
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Nov 14, 2014 18:43
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I'll throw my hat into the ring for the DIY option. I threw a rig together with some pretty cheap parts, and it's served me well. It's also nice to know that if anything breaks, I can fix it myself. At some point I'll put something together that's a little better constructed, as my current rig is held together with gaffer's tape, but it still works great.
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Nov 14, 2014 18:47
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Shanakin posted:if you don't feel like laying out the ~$180 or whatever it's going for these days, there are some free options which work pretty well. If you happen to have a reasonable webcam (or better yet a PS3 Eye), you can get a pretty workable system going with something like opentrack which if memory serves me correctly is the current standard in free head tracking. If you can whip yourself up an IR beacon clip then you can probably get it to about 80-90ish percent of the way to Track IR. Probably for under $30. It is a lot fiddlier though. This is what made me eventually get TrackIR. I had my FreeTrack setup and while it worked, it was fiddly as hell and hard to manage. I'd initially avoided getting TrackIR because of the cost but the ease of use makes it for me and I'm incredibly pleased with it. It just works, and the last thing I want to be doing when people are shooting planes is be messing around with the tracking system again. JerikTelorian fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 19:19
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JerikTelorian posted:This is what made me eventually get TrackIR. I had my FreeTrack setup and while it worked, it was fiddly as hell and hard to manage. I'd initially avoided getting TrackIR because of the cost but the ease of use makes it for me and I'm incredibly pleased with it. It just works, and the last thing I want to be doing when people are shooting planes is be messing around with the tracking system again. I'm basically in the same boat. I had a ps3 eye system working adequately, which was a great entry point to head tracking on the cheap. I could never really get it as precise or smooth as trackIR videos however, and it was an awful lot of faffing about to get to work that well at all. When I had the opportunity I picked up TIR5 and as you say it just works. Hell even the default profile was pretty good. Also that precision and smoothness I could never quite get suddenly stood out night and day and went from being "this is a really useful tool" to just forgetting it was even there and getting on with it. If you're on the fence about head tracking in general, or just on a budget, or hate natural point or whatever, free head tracking solutions are a viable option that are worth exploring though as long as you're aware of the caveats. I can't really understate how much even rudimentary head tracking can improve situational awareness though. Shanakin fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 19:29
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EpicPhoton posted:I'll throw my hat into the ring for the DIY option. I threw a rig together with some pretty cheap parts, and it's served me well. It's also nice to know that if anything breaks, I can fix it myself. At some point I'll put something together that's a little better constructed, as my current rig is held together with gaffer's tape, but it still works great. I've got a gamestop card with like 20 bucks on it. Im thinking of picking up a used ps3 cam and rigging one up tonight. It'll make for a fun DIY project. Still wanting the Track IR though. What could i jury rig a IR light out of though? Out of curiosity what other games could you actually use it with? I watched the product demo on their site and while it makes sense from a flight sim perspective im not too convinced when it comes to using it with say a shooter?
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Nov 14, 2014 21:02
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Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if you could find a new EYE cam for less than Gamestop would charge for a used one. As for other games.. EuroTruck sim?  Arma series uses Track IR as well (and not just for vehicles). I believe some racing games use it.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:08
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Shanakin posted:I can't really understate how much even rudimentary head tracking can improve situational awareness though. Very true statement. It becomes second nature. Also, after you've used a head tracker, try watching videos of people playing IL2/Euro Truck without winging your head around. I end up looking like I have Tourette's. JerikTelorian fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 21:27
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Wow the playstation eye is ridiculously cheap. $10. I've already got a standard webcam of sorts is there any way to program that for head tracking using the software? Or is it pretty much IR or nothing?
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Nov 14, 2014 21:27
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Sentinel posted:Wow the playstation eye is ridiculously cheap. $10. You can actually turn nearly any webcam into an IR cam (albeit a mediocre one). You'll need to disassemble it and remove the IR filter, then put a piece of exposed film (or floppy disk innards) over the lens. You can test to see if your camera has an IR filter by pointing a (working) remote control at it and pressing buttons, if there is no filter you should see it brightly.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:31
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Sentinel posted:I've got a gamestop card with like 20 bucks on it. Im thinking of picking up a used ps3 cam and rigging one up tonight. It'll make for a fun DIY project. You can't really make an IR system "out of" something else. Maybe take apart a bunch of old remote controls and grab the LEDs, but that's all I can think of. You need three infrared LEDs in a frequency that the camera can see (mine are 850nm), a 2xAA or 2xAAA battery holder, some appropriate resistors (depends on your LEDs but 47 ohms is about right), and a switch. And some wires and solder of course. Ideally you get wide-angle LEDs, but you can cut off the domed top of standard 5mm units and sand them smooth and they'll have a similar spread.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:19
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Sagebrush posted:You can't really make an IR system "out of" something else. Maybe take apart a bunch of old remote controls and grab the LEDs, but that's all I can think of. You need three infrared LEDs in a frequency that the camera can see (mine are 850nm), a 2xAA or 2xAAA battery holder, some appropriate resistors (depends on your LEDs but 47 ohms is about right), and a switch. And some wires and solder of course. Ideally you get wide-angle LEDs, but you can cut off the domed top of standard 5mm units and sand them smooth and they'll have a similar spread. Ive got some old remotes lieing around i could easily pry the LED's out of. I lack a soldering gun though so that's easily the biggest hurdle.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:39
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By the time you buy yourself a soldering gun the wires all the extra crap you're going to need to build your own tracking system you will spend almost as much as a track IR. Then the first time you try a real trackir are you going to want to toss whatever you built into the trash and buy a real one. It's really that much better. If you're tight on cash and feel like tinkering go right ahead but if you can afford it just go and buy the real thing. There's no sense spending money and time soldering something together if you intending on replacing it in the short term.
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Nov 15, 2014 00:13
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EvilJoven posted:By the time you buy yourself a soldering gun the wires all the extra crap you're going to need to build your own tracking system you will spend almost as much as a track IR. I just replaced my track clip pro with a DIY setup. Had to purchase a soldering iron, solder, electrical parts and it came out to approximately $25. It really wasn't about the cost savings though, it was about the fact that the track clip pro is a piece of poo poo. Goofy attachment and fragile as gently caress. Still use the IR camera and the TrackIR software. This setup works the same as with track clip pro without any of its drawbacks. Another nice feature is that I can attach a battery box to my setup if in the future I wanted to eliminate the USB cable. I don't have any experience with the total DIY setup, but I would say it's certainly a lot cheaper at $20-$40 as compared to $170. No clue how good the various cameras people use perform, but the software does look really lovely. Most of the goons who I've encountered using a DIY setup seem to like it well enough though, so if I had to totally replace everything I would at least try the PS Eye plus DIY IR LEDs. If that wasn't good enough, I'd just grab the TrackIR without the track clip pro. Either way, I would say in a WWII flight sim some form of head tracking is required. This especially true if you are playing without labels.
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Nov 15, 2014 01:31
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TIR is about 120-140 from amazon prime if you snag one of those refurbs with warranty.
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Nov 15, 2014 01:52
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I think I only posted this in the elite thread, so I'll post it here too. This is for people too to get a trackir cheap like me (I'm just waiting for rift, but it keeps getting delayed argh), but too lazy to DIY. http://www.delanengineering.com/shop/ This guy gets you a clip you can plug into usb for cheap and you can use your webcam. He also sells complete sets with a filtered ps3 eye included for 40gbp with shipping, but it seems he's out of stock for those at the moment. At $62 for the whole thing it's much cheaper than a trackir, but still works for lazy people like me. Also works great, been using it for a week or so now in DCS and IL-2 and there's no problems with it at all. It's not as accurate/snappy as a trackir I think, but it's still just head tracking.
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Nov 15, 2014 02:29
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I followed this post by Sauer to build my own. I went with the 3 Point Cap setup, since I had a baseball cap to attach this all to. I'd recommend getting the LED's he suggested. I had to throw some tissues over the small angle LEDs I ended up getting, in order to make them an actual visible point source. Also, getting a soldering setup is useful for other things. Eventually you'll be buying an Arduino to make a custom button panel for your flight sims, and then you'll be really screwed. EpicPhoton fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 19:41
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Definately try the DIY one. Especially if you aren't 100% into simulators and want to move a bit more slowly. Not to mention the nice feeling making something yourself. 
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Nov 15, 2014 20:09
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Just wanted to make it known btw that I am always up for plain old Il-2 1946. No mod bullshit, just the game patched to whatever Steam gives you. It may be old and not too good looking any more but the air combat is still top-notch and some of the best times I've ever had in any video game were TB-3 jousting with goons years ago.
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Nov 17, 2014 01:37
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Hi, I've just installed this game and my plane turns right as soon as I start pressing "=" (throttle) on the runway. Here's a video: http://youtu.be/Qqk736mnQH8 - My cockpit appears at around 1:20 (in a weird way - I'm looking at top right corner? Not sure if it's related) - And turning starts at around 1:40 - I show my controls at around 2:20 Am I retarded and missing something obvious here? Unexpected fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 03:00
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That's just something you have to manually counter in prop planes. Throttle up slowly and use the rudder/ailerons to counter it as you get to the proper takeoff speed. You can also fiddle with the brakes once you get used to this. I'm pretty sure some planes in this game allow you to lock the tail wheel if you want to but it isn't really necessary in most cases. You want to make sure it is straight before doing this by rolling forward a little bit. quick copy/paste from google: http://wiki.flightgear.org/Understanding_Propeller_Torque_and_P-Factor posted:Torque effect is the influence of engine torque on aircraft movement and control. It is generally exhibited as a left turning tendency in piston single engine propeller driven aircraft. Thief fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 03:06
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Whoa. Thanks!
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Nov 27, 2014 03:25
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| # ? May 5, 2024 11:56 |
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This picture explains your problem super simply and perfectly: Basically, you need to apply opposite rudder, and don't open throttle fully until you're at decent speed in the fw190 because that thing has way too much power for its rudder at low speed. Also, pulling on the stick locks the tailwheel in most airplanes, and also keeps it on the ground, which also helps tons.
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Nov 27, 2014 10:14
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