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drat I'm jealous. Also, keep that granite countertop around, stone countertops are great for doing hot work on like heating up parts to shrink-fit over the shaft you have stored next to the beer, soldering, etc.
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Oct 28, 2014 16:02
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Adiabatic posted:Come visit anytime. I have a crush on your deuce. Good call on the granite, I was considering selling it before you said something. Yeah I have a big slab of soapstone counter built into the desk/workbench I put upstairs specifically so I can solder without burning the poo poo out of my desk. Found it in the underbrush of an overgrown garden when I started clearing one corner of my yard and immediately knew what I was going to do with it. I am way far away, but might be down sometime. Normally the furthest south I get is central Pennsyltucky. (you should have bought a deuce or 5 ton  )As for vises, buy the biggest old vise you can afford. Same rule with anvils. I have a ~50lb Wilton around here somewhere that I need to clean up and rebuild a bit.
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Oct 29, 2014 21:49
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Flip em side to side on the front and see if it changes sides.
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Dec 5, 2014 00:09
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Probably extreme nastiness in the HEVAC box (rotten mold) or a dead animal somewhere. Which does it smell like? It's amazing how much of a stench a single decomposing mouse will make.
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Dec 8, 2014 18:25
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Imposters, that toilet isn't even on fire.  That is a hell of a vise.
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Dec 15, 2014 05:06
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Adiabatic posted:Roommate spent 3 hours taking a new-looking shiny head off a junkyard motor to find two shattered pistons embedded in it. Guess why? That jeep was a few steps ahead of his. 1. 0331 head cracks 2. Owner does not notice for too long 3. Coolant and oil form domestic partnership 4. Strange knocky sounds emanate 5.  6. Have new head installed and hope for the best 7. ??? 8.  just imagine those are conrods, not worms!I hope he caught his earlier than they did (not hard, based on the average car owners idea of the ideal time delay between "hear funny noise" and "take car for service") because otherwise, it is longblock time next.
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Jan 17, 2015 02:10
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As long as the valves aren't munched and there is no peening from the piston hitting it, gently caress it, run it. I will bet on an iron head in iron head vs cast aluminum piston any day of the week. Check it for flatness, too. Might have gotten warped slightly I suppose.
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Jan 17, 2015 22:57
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They do that, yeah. I just figure the passenger side of my blocks won't rust anymore.  Re: rover engines. gently caress that. Jam a 5.3, 4l60e, and npwhatever from a loving chevy in there and loving forget about it. Jesus christ. why in the hell didn't they just tophat the drat liners from the factory? I mean, its not exactly hard. The liners aren't cast in like they are on subarus, are they?
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Jan 19, 2015 06:08
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ONE OF US ONE OF US ONE OF US I don't even know how many MJs are in AI now but it's a lot. OneOverZero, me, iForge, Sandbagger, angryrobot?, tonedef, Blaise, a few others I think?
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Jan 22, 2015 04:44
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What exactly did you think would happen? I am drat jealous and if I ever need another MJ I am coming down to go MJ hunting. I've never even seen some of that sheetmetal, it just doesn't exist. The header panel is fortunately an XJ part, you can swap on a complete nose as new as a 96 and it'll bolt right up. If you want to swap only the fiberglass shell and put all your lights and grille and plastics and crap on it the newest you can use is a 90.
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Jan 23, 2015 03:18
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 You really should just because. Or put a periscope in there. Also I found some things you may be interested in today at the junkyard... one of the (fairly rare) factory hitches, it's been somewhat modified and badly welded to by some hillrod but it shouldn't be hard to put back how it was and add some safety chain hooks to it. Not sure the factory ones ever had safety chain hooks, now that I think about it. And a spare set of tail lights. Oh, and a d44! I need to figure out what sort of shell game is happening with all of the MJ d44s floating around, but hopefully this will mean a 3.55 geared one makes its way to you and another to iForge.
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Jan 24, 2015 20:26
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WTF, that's a bullshit repair. I expected better. You didn't use a grade 8 bolt.
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Jan 24, 2015 22:08
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Your shed looks like a miniature version of my house.
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Feb 22, 2015 04:32
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madhatter9374 posted:As the aforementioned roommate, can confirm that my alpha male status has been revoked. It's Mountain Dew and M'lady from here on out. your cabinets and meat badger are excellent but I recommend troubleshooting your vehicles a bit more before digging in
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Mar 4, 2015 06:04
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I'm not sure you have the garbage collection algorithm correct but the rest of that looks pretty spot on.
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Mar 30, 2015 23:38
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I don't understand why people tear their cars apart without having everything they think they will need to put it back together on hand already. Kinda defeats the point and wastes everyone's time... it's bad enough when you realize you need something you didn't think of, but going in saying "hey let's do a clutch, I'll pull it apart and then order one or wait for it to come in" makes no goddamn sense to me. :popcorn:
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Apr 7, 2015 23:37
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Wish I could be there, had a bunch of poo poo to get done up here though  Senior Funkenstien posted:Not AI at all buddy. Thats how we all learned. Uhhh... you learned by tearing up your poo poo without even having the parts on hand you knew you were going to need? Because the plan was to replace them? I'm sorry, that's as loving retarded as deciding you're going to cook pancakes, except all you have is the butter and baking soda. So you mix those, turn the stove on, and realize maybe you should get the rest, then go to get the rest at the store while the stove is still on, oh and this isn't even your kitchen? No, read the drat ingredients list first. And buy the stuff on it.
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Apr 12, 2015 04:02
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Yeah, that was my point. Being a dick to the guy with the shop by being a clueless retard and not buying the parts you planned on replacing before you make the car not move anymore is not "AI", it's being an idiot. I'm not sure why people didn't understand that?
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Apr 14, 2015 15:01
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There is a way to replace one in a couple hours without dropping the dash if you don't mind cutting a hole in the heater box and then patching it afterwards. Seems kinda ghetto so I don't want to do that on mine, but it beats draining r12 systems and pulling the dash. Check if there is even any refrigerant left, at this point there probably isn't unless someone had it redone. If there isn't, time for a new dryer and a Motronic style
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Apr 20, 2015 13:14
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Yeah, I am not really a fan of cutting holes in poo poo either. Toss in a new evap core while you are in there since it blows hot... or leakcheck it before pulling it apart, since that's money you don't need to spend. If you want, when you come up for other stuff, bring the appropriate computer duster and r12 to r134a adapter fittings + ac oil, I'll get a can tap as that is the only part of the toolset I don't have now. Already got the compressor, gauge set, etc to recharge my dad's Ranger AC system.
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Apr 20, 2015 13:42
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All refrigerants are hydrocarbons of some sort, most just have some halogens added for flavor. Check out Motronic's A/C repair thread from last year, I don't want to derail Adiabatic's any more than I already have and Motronic is better at this stuff than I am anyways.
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Apr 20, 2015 15:10
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If the F150 is anything like the Ranger, they go into clip nuts anyways so the procedure is "mask off interior of truck bed AND REAR CAB WINDOW, apply grinder to bolt head until problem is solved" anyways. Then you buy 45 bucks worth of new bed mounting bolts and clip nuts on rockauto and forget about it.
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May 4, 2015 23:12
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Adiabatic posted:Get the front and back yard looking respectable nix these, do the rest. 
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May 29, 2015 17:40
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I really need to get my license and a few things because the raccoons noticed I evicted my squirrel squatters and moved right in. Glad you finally finished fixing the MJ, I should do the same to mine, it's still on jackstands. The parts are hanging out at my banjo compound for when you come up in a while.
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Jun 3, 2015 02:28
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Cement, concrete, stone, sand, gravel, firewood, etc are all things that are staggeringly expensive in homeowner quantities. I can get a cord of firewood for $180, or I can buy a bundle of like six pieces for $11. Sand and gravel are like 20-50 bucks a ton at the gravel pit but it's like 3-4 dollars for a 60lb bag at home depot.
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Jun 29, 2015 18:47
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I might be brainfarting on it. It has been a long time since I even priced stuff out, since my landscaping isn't happening for a long rear end time and I don't go through concrete fast enough to buy it in bulk because it turns into a solid block from humidity.
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Jun 29, 2015 21:25
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The issue with putting it back in as it was stock is you swapped to an open cooling system IIRC. The RENIX efan uses a thermal switch screwed into the driver side rad tank to turn the fan on. The open cooling system radiator has no hole for that sensor... I will have to think about this a bit.
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Jul 5, 2015 02:17
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oh! Well yeah then slap it in, find what the chucklefuck PO heehawed in the harness, and plug it back in like you planned I guess. I keep confusing your truck and iForge's, due to them (and mine) being clones of each other with a variety of different mods done.
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Jul 5, 2015 02:56
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You'd have to be drifting to get the switch to reset since it's lined up port/starboard not fore/aft.
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Jul 9, 2015 14:59
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Adiabatic posted:Thanks! I'm looking into them, but it seems they're all pretty low amperage. My electric motors pull somewhere around 12 amps and I can only find e-stops on Amazon that can handle 5 or 6. That is actually exactly how most people do it.
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Jul 12, 2015 23:53
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Yeah a contactor amounts to a big, possibly-rebuildable relay. Some people use the terms interchangeably and some people are really autistic about it, so it gets interesting. Long as that relay will handle the current and voltage your machine requires, is rated for at least as many horsepower as the motor is specced for, and you're running your control circuit off 120VAC, those parts will work fine. I would use either a project box or a 4 11/16" square electrical box (assuming that has enough volume for all the poo poo you plan on cramming in there) depending on how many 2x4s / bits of steel stock you think are likely to get bashed into the box, and how much you want to spend / how much time you want to spend drilling holes. The nice thing about the electrical box is they are drat near bulletproof, cheap, and come with knockouts for all the common cable clamps you're going to use anyways, and also you can get blank covers and bore the necessary e-stop switch and control switch holes in them easily enough.
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Jul 13, 2015 15:40
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I parked it right here, I swear, and it loving sank! (I didn't get the graboid reference till I googled it.  )That shirt is awesome and I had to buy it when I saw it on amazon a while ago. Has stood up fairly well, too. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3C4X14/ref=pe_385040_127541860_TE_3p_dp_1 Thanks a ton for hauling my fractional cars around for me dude, and let me know if there is anything you are looking for at the JY before NEAI so I can keep an eye out for it! 
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Jul 21, 2015 14:48
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I regret that I have but one five to give for this thread  That vise is how the tailgate on iForge's truck got bent, isn't it? Goddamn it's a monster.
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Jul 24, 2015 15:07
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Looks like my back porch does right now, I tore down more walls over the weekend and whipped it all out the window The pile isn't big enough though, A for effort, B for results
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Aug 17, 2015 17:56
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I would also go with high gloss white, preferably a solvent and oil resistant paint. The brighter the surface the better lit your shop will stay, no matter what lighting you have.
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Aug 26, 2015 13:56
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WTF? You have to deal with that poo poo in the south? I'm reasonably certain there's actually supposed to be metal across that opening, dude, since that's where the bumpstop lands. Remind me to look at some at the yard tomorrow.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:07
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4.5 inch bolt circle dana 30s (TJ, YJ, XJ, MJ, ZJ, et al) have somewhat different spring perches that match exactly what EightBit described. I'm not 100% on whether the top of that round part is capped off on WJ ones, but I'd bet on it, and I can't find a good pic on GIS that shows any more metal than the link SiF gave. Really it's just a garbage design that traps water and rots out.
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Sep 25, 2015 16:15
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I recommend you replace those brake drums anyways, since they were pretty corroded. The only reason I included them was so you could easily compare any new parts you bought to them and figure out they were wrong before spending an hour trying to assemble it  (also they came with the axle for free so they left with it as well.)I'm pretty sure they're the "10x2.5 drums", finned instead of smooth outside,
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Sep 29, 2015 20:23
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I'm pretty sure you all have this confused with the chat thread Balljoints on d30s are fortunately pretty easy, as you just found out. I'm interested how your welder buddy is going to fare with those coil perches, since they're probably far under original thickness at the spots where the tube has to be welded on.
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Oct 9, 2015 17:12
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 11:46 |
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I would wirewheel or solvent clean that off, jesus. Also your flood of TIMG pics is making my phone cry
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Oct 20, 2015 15:52
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