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I’d be careful with lacquer based varnishes in particular if you plan on spraying them over water slide decals as a finishing coat, they can absolutely damage them and I wouldn’t be particularly shocked if they made gundam markers bleed although admittedly I don’t have experience with that. Ask me how narked I am that I ordered Mr super clear topcoat instead of Mr Topcoat.
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Apr 14, 2024 21:02
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Yeah, I saw that specifically about Mr Super Clear after talking with a buddy last night how baller that is for other craft projects. Sounds like Mr Top Coat would be better for over water slides and acrylics. I’m assuming Tamiya topcoats are okay over acrylic because that’s their primary formulation.
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Apr 14, 2024 21:09
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Boys who love boys
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Got my Aerial assembled (with the metal frame and LED kit), just need to get the bit display part figured out
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Apr 14, 2024 22:18
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monsterzero posted:My kingdom for Mr. Datasheet (in English). I want you to know I saw this and appreciate the sentiment
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Apr 14, 2024 22:25
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monsterzero posted:I’m starting to buy paints so please tell me if I have this wrong: Not all acrylics paints are water based. For example both Mr. Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics are alcohol-based. But even alcohol-based acrylics can be thinned with water instead of needing special chemical thinners, which is where the non water based "Aqueous" paints get their name. quote:Lacquer - strongest final film/most aggressive solvent. Top coating over other chemistries is okay/good. However, if you were to absolutely soak your model or brush (mechanically agitate) lacquer you might gently caress up the underlying paint. Hobby brand lacquers & lacquer thinners are a lot less hot than "real world" lacquer paints (or hardware store lacquer thinner) and people do just spray em on unprimed plastic with far fewer issues than enamels. No idea what the chemicals involved are like though. I believe even some primers are lacquer-based? Or at least they can be thinned with lacquer thinner. But then again people also use hobby lacquer thinners like Mr Leveling Thinner for enamel paints, so in the end IDK what's going on re: thinner compatibility. And yeah lacquers over top of acrylic paints can potentially cause trouble: Mr Teatime posted:I’d be careful with lacquer based varnishes in particular if you plan on spraying them over water slide decals as a finishing coat, they can absolutely damage them and I wouldn’t be particularly shocked if they made gundam markers bleed although admittedly I don’t have experience with that. A goon in the discord had an issue with this -- Testors (laquer) glosscote would reactivate and smear their gundam pour-type marker panel lines. In the end they got it to work, they just had to use lighter less-wet coats. RPATDO_LAMD fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 22:52
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I’ve definitely had tamiya panel liner crack plastic, specifically on my RG Nu Gundam. It seems like it got into a crevice between parts and probably didn’t dry as fast as it should have and caused issues. If you’re quick on the cleanup and don’t skip it on, it should be fine. I also just base coat all my kits with lacquer paints (Gaianotes EX black or Alclad gloss black base) and have never had any issues with plastic cracking cuz of that. Tried my hand at washing the GOOhN and hoo boy I’m bad at it lol:  Anyone know of an easy way to clean up acrylic washes after they’ve dried, tried enamel thinner cuz it’s all I had and it didn’t work great.
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Apr 14, 2024 23:51
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Antoine Silvere posted:I’ve definitely had tamiya panel liner crack plastic, specifically on my RG Nu Gundam. It seems like it got into a crevice between parts and probably didn’t dry as fast as it should have and caused issues. If you’re quick on the cleanup and don’t skip it on, it should be fine. You could try isopropyl alcohol because that will definitely strip acrylic paint, but depending on what’s under it it could take that off too.
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Apr 15, 2024 01:34
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Mr Teatime posted:Oil washes are fine? Jeese I’ll just dig out my paints then. Are mineral spirits on the naughty list as well for Bandai plastic? I normally just use winsor and newton sansodor for oils. I've been fine using odorless turpenoid. I believe mineral spirits are okay, but I'd do some tests on a piece of sprue before I did anything on an expensive kit. You got a GM or something to use as a tester, hell, maybe it'll look like cool battle damage.
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Apr 15, 2024 01:40
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Not even Gundam Markers are safe to use with uncoated ABS, as I learned last night :o edit: On further reflection, it was probably less to do with the ABS as it was that the layer of paint that was applied to the ball joint made the connection too tight which caused it to snap when I attempted to rotate the connection. Looking online though, I do see some disasters that have happened with gundam markers on raw ABS, so proceed with caution I guess! Queadlunn posted:Got my Aerial assembled (with the metal frame and LED kit), just need to get the bit display part figured out Gorgeous Big Bizness fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 02:14
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Big Bizness posted:Gorgeous Thanks! Here's the display my spouse and I put together for G-Witch:  The KosMos LED kit is good, but the bit trail parts are really hard to work with. The screws shear off when you tighten them, and the trail parts are vynil with two stickers applied, so making them look cool and swoopy but also clean is a nightmare. I decided not to use them and saved space in the display case.
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Apr 15, 2024 03:49
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I didn't manage to get any good pictures of the aeriel because lmao the plastic is so dark I can't get any light on it so it's just a dark blob in every shot I try to take: fun build though, I can totally see why people love the WFM kits. Now I need more.
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Apr 15, 2024 04:50
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I think I might get an Aerial, but I'm gonna wait for the (probably inevitable) Real Grade version.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:03
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You'll be waiting for a while, I think.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:05
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Arc Hammer posted:You'll be waiting for a while, I think. It's okay, I have a backlog to keep me occupied. 
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Apr 15, 2024 05:09
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I'm still really shocked that they don't have any in-production 1/100 G-Witch kits, the Full Mechanics Aerial is shown as discontinued everywhere now...
Queadlunn fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 05:10
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Meanwhile my hobby shop is filled with reprints of SEED Destiny HGs but no SEED Freedom kits.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:18
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I saw a few of what seemed to be 1/100 No Grade SEED kits at a HobbyTown.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:26
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wdarkk posted:I saw a few of what seemed to be 1/100 No Grade SEED kits at a HobbyTown. Those exist but are mostly obsoleted by subsequent MG kits for most of the subjects.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:30
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Midjack posted:Those exist but are mostly obsoleted by subsequent MG kits for most of the subjects. Yeah, it was just really weird. It’s not one of the ones that have an absolutely huge selection so having them at all seemed baffling.
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Apr 15, 2024 05:40
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wdarkk posted:Yeah, it was just really weird. It’s not one of the ones that have an absolutely huge selection so having them at all seemed baffling. They probably got a big reprint run for the movie, but were lower in demand than the new movie kits so it was easy to pick a few up in a larger order.
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Apr 15, 2024 06:29
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Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default?
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Apr 15, 2024 09:29
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Iymarra posted:Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default? Some older kits use a handful of screws, no big metal pieces though. The MG Acguy even has a spring! And the huge 1/24-1/12 "HY2M" kits have metal hardware for the joints. As for normal sized stuff there are some original Chinese kits that come with metal inner frames like Motor Nuclear's Ao Bing etc, but no Bandai kits I'm aware of.
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Apr 15, 2024 10:46
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If you go back even further, there were a few kits that experimented with metal joints. Like the 1/100 "Full Action" Nu Gundam. (which has the best box art ever) Also there are a few metal internals on some of the PGs. HiRMs have metal parts in their prebuilt skeletons but that's a little different.
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Apr 15, 2024 11:32
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Iymarra posted:Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default? The psycho gundam has screws to hold its torso together
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Apr 15, 2024 11:46
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Iymarra posted:Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default? The MG Ball has two metal rods for the arms. You can check my post a couple weeks ago for them.
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Apr 15, 2024 13:37
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Iymarra posted:Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default? the ball/polypodball have metal rods, as was stated. the mg psycho zaku had metal springs for the cables on the legs
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Apr 15, 2024 14:12
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The first MG Nu has a metal pelvis.
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Apr 15, 2024 14:23
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Midjack posted:The first MG Nu has a metal pelvis. old age comes for us all
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Apr 15, 2024 15:17
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This Nu hip replacement isn't just for show!
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Apr 15, 2024 15:22
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Not sure if it counts as metal parts, but the Perfect Grade Unleashed RX-78-2 has metal stickers (as in thin metal with a sticky back) that are used for extra detail in places.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:22
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Iymarra posted:Are there any gunpla which come with metal or metal coated parts? I have heard some kits have after market metal bits (which ones are recommended?) but are there any kits which have them by default? If you're just wanting something with a metal/metallic look, get yourself a Gundam EX Silver marker and paint away on a kit you like. The marker's number is XGM100.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:30
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I like toying around with the metal paint markers ive got but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the metal a bit less shiny and more dulled/matte. Maybe I should get some citadel paints and hand brush the metal parts, their metallics look amazing.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:32
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Arc Hammer posted:I like toying around with the metal paint markers ive got but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the metal a bit less shiny and more dulled/matte. metal paints / markers are shiny by nature of their pigment. you'd have to use a matte varnish and even then there'll still be shininess to them just less so it's why I've been avoiding metallic paints for my repaints and using alternative visual looks
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Apr 15, 2024 16:38
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Stopped by the hobby shop the other day to grab a Baund Doc, and they had one Lancelot Albion kit from Code Geass R2, which I had to snag. It’s going to be fun posing that big boy when it’s finished.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:58
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:metal paints / markers are shiny by nature of their pigment. you'd have to use a matte varnish and even then there'll still be shininess to them just less so I've used citadel paints extensively when I was into 40K and I got pretty good at using their darker boltgun metal plus washes to really dull them out so they're metallic but not "mirror shine" metallic. One method I've been practicing with for the paint pens is to paint onto the plastic and then wipe off most of the paint before it dries. It gives a nice finish after a few tries where the colour of the plastic underneath is still visible but with a very fine layer of the pigments over top that still catches the light.
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Apr 15, 2024 17:05
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Arc Hammer posted:I've used citadel paints extensively when I was into 40K and I got pretty good at using their darker boltgun metal plus washes to really dull them out so they're metallic but not "mirror shine" metallic. oh I thought you were trying to maintain the color but just lessen the shine. yeah washes of darker colors will cut down the refractions as for shininess for paint that doesn't have it naturally. you could use glitter in acrylic medium, then thin it down a bit into a wash / glaze. that way you can mix some up ahead of time and just paint it on wherever you want. basically the same thing as glitter nail polish actually if you've already got citadels metallics then you could make a glaze from those I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 17:25
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Is everyone just forgetting this? https://p-bandai.com/us/item/N2549010001005
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Apr 15, 2024 19:26
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monsterzero posted:My kingdom for Mr. Datasheet (in English).
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Apr 15, 2024 21:22
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I'm plan to get back into modeling, and I'm hoping to get into painting. Is there a good list of what brands to buy from / how colors will look after painted on / what colors will look good together? I'm certain I've seen this information before, but now that I actually need it I don't have any clue where to find it. Also, because I'm smart and I respect my limitations I'm planning on using a glossy black. What kind of hell am I getting into?
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Apr 15, 2024 21:36
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You planning to airbrush or hand paint? Do you have any examples of paint jobs that inspire you?
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Apr 15, 2024 21:39
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