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I'm going to be putting together/painting my first gunpla models. According to the english color guides: http://www.mech9.com/2016/08/hg-freedom-gundam-construction-manual.html http://www.mech9.com/2010/11/hguc-ms-07b-c-gouf-custom-color-guide.html They'll need a "monza red", light blue and orange yellow. I pretty much need to use acrylic since I'm in an apartment for now, and I can' t find anywhere to buy aqueous Mr Color in the USA, so I'm using Tamiya and Vallejo like I use on the historical scale models I make which don't have those three colors as matches that I can find on any color chart. I'm not real worried about the monza red - is that pretty much Ferrari red? However, is there going to be a better color than just mixing blue and white for the light blue, and orange and yellow for the orange yellow that I could buy in another acrylic brand I'm not thinking of?
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Nov 18, 2016 16:09
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Fauxtool posted:color matching isnt that important IMO, it only needs to look close enough. Mr color Monza red is very close to ferrari red for vallejo, needs less orange. I kinda figured that matching exactly wasn't as important as when I'm making a historical model. Thanks for those links!
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Nov 18, 2016 16:51
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I figure I should dry fit the model before taking it back apart and separating parts by color/putty/etc. I've never put together a snap-fit - what's the best way to take apart the model after it's together, or prepare the parts for easy separation once they're together?
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Nov 21, 2016 22:59
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I got the EVA-01 and 02 Mechagodzilla kits a few months/maybe a year ago whenever they were available, and just finished the 02 version today. The kit itself looks good but some of the instructions and a few parts aren't very well engineered. Still, a pretty cool kit and I'm happy with how it turned out after decals and a wash.    
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Jul 21, 2023 20:20
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I already started my Eva-01 RG at the very end of last month so I’ll wait til whatever I work on next to join, probably MG Guntank or the Bandai HG Gypsy Avenger.
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Aug 5, 2023 14:09
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grassy gnoll posted:Worse case you get a point for half credit on an RG. Or the prospect of yet more points if you’re enough of a sicko to paint an RG, of course. Your call. I had already opened most of the sprue bags and I have a pic of the parts I've cut out and are ready for primer. I have most of the RG Evangelion releases and I'm wanting to paint them all eventually. I've painted complex military models but this will be the most complex gunpla type thing I've done. Also have some water slide decals for the robot and platform since I like those more than stickers.  
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Aug 5, 2023 23:45
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Got the chest parts painted today for the EVA-01, probably not gonna get a ton of models done this month based on how long this will take to paint but I'm happy to have a reason to actually work on them anyway. Hoping to be done with the robot and platform by next weekend at the latest. May work on the RX-78-02 Cucuruz Doan's Island version after this since that just came in and I have most of the paint colors for it already.
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Aug 7, 2023 00:27
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I'm still working on painting it because there's a ton of parts but I'm enjoying the EVA-01 build for sure, have the chest together and the legs painted and everything else snipped out so I'm hoping I'll be done early next week, happy with how the colors turn out and I think it'll look pretty nice once it's done. Think this one will mostly be on the platform it comes with (painting the weapons and other hands just in case I change my mind) but with the other Eva models I'm excited to pose them. Love that it even comes with a little entry plug to put in the model even though I will almost definitely never see it again now that it's there.
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Aug 11, 2023 22:29
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Finished my Eva-01, pretty good build tho the top portion of the jaw piece broke and I had to glue it together so the mouth doesn't completely close, oh well. First time using Mr. Hobby Aqueous paint and I like it pretty well now that I've figured out how to thin and such. Used water slide decals on the robot and stickers on the platform.  
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Aug 19, 2023 21:15
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grassy gnoll posted:
It wasn't too bad tho it took a while just because there were so many parts and I ran out of space. I couldn't get a good orange with their ratios so I had to figure that out on my own and I ended up ordering the wrong field gray so I had to make my own color for the platform. Otherwise just a few touchups were needed and I learned some things about painting snap together parts to make it easier next time. Will probably start another kit this month but doubt I'll finish it with Armored Core 6 coming out.
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Aug 20, 2023 23:21
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Diet Poison posted:I always thought that might be a good way to hide nub marks if you're not going for a full paint: conveniently located rust/oil spots. Honestly I'm not the biggest fan of weathering but that Guncannon looks great; I think my problem is most people imo tend to overdo it. But that sort of restrained weathering looks great. Like it's been out in the field for a mission or two, not abandoned for a decade. I weather pretty much any military model I do but agreed that I'm not super into weathering in general for gunpla. I think it can look fantastic, tho, like that Guncannon, and it's not too difficult to limit the amount of weathering IME. I made my Mechagodzilla with Eva-02 colors pretty weathered dirtiness wise because it was painted plastic over the base red color for the most part instead of actual colored plastic so the marks from the sprues were very noticeable, so it is a nice option for kits like that.
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Aug 25, 2023 21:26
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I hadn't tried using Bandai waterslide decals til the last model I did and they were awful, not quite to the level of the Eva/Mechagodzilla I did but very difficult to try and get stuck even with setter/softer. If I didn't have a set of third party decals for it I might have just gone with the stickers over them. Not looking forward to putting decals on the RX-78-2 Cucuruz Doan version I'm finishing today.
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Sep 1, 2023 16:46
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Got the RX-78-2 Cucuruz Doan's island ver. done this week. Just a recolor of The Origin model so a pretty good build tho the shield/hand for it are kind of a pain. 
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Sep 8, 2023 15:45
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Speaking of Tamiya’s panel line, do I need to do anything special besides pint/gloss coat first with acrylic and then clean up the panel lining if it goes over with like mineral spirits on a cotton swab? Usually just do a oil wash on military modes which takes care of the panels but don’t want to weather much on most gunpla.
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Sep 13, 2023 17:50
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I dunno if they ship everywhere since I haven’t had to rebuy in ages but I’m a big fan of Flory washes, I usually seal them in after 12 hours and they’re real easy to work with. https://www.florymodels.org/washes
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Sep 16, 2023 16:39
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As someone that deals with high humidity during the summer you can prime/spray stuff above 60% but you’ve got to get a feel for it and let it cure longer IME.
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Sep 21, 2023 18:34
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chiasaur11 posted:Multicolor injection was in use all the way back in 1991, with the F91 line. In fact, it was even fancier than most modern stuff. Yeah I'm working on Bandai's 2000 kit for the Big O and the base blue color is what all the plastic is and they just expect you to paint it for every other color. I doubt they would have paid for most non Gundam stuff to be multi colored plastic at the time.
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Sep 27, 2023 20:21
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For nubs now I love glass files after using one on the last model I did. Before that I preferred using sanding sticks or sponges with increasing grain to get rid of any nub marks. Of course, it's best to start with a good single blade nipper like mentioned above and you can avoid marks at all a lot of the time.
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Oct 9, 2023 01:25
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Buck Wildman posted:next model's here I've had the original version of that for years, maybe next year will be the year I actually put it together and paint it.
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Oct 21, 2023 20:51
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I love painting kits and I think a lot of people are terrified of something that isn't near as difficult as many seem to think it is. You can gently caress it up if you refuse to thin your paints ever but it's a lot more forgiving than you'd think, especially if you can afford an airbrush setup. As long as you're using acrylic painting in an apartment or small space isn't too bad IME, even for airbrushing a small spray booth is pretty simple to set up. I understand not wanting to paint, too, the kits tend to be pretty great in the modern era, but if you have interest in it at all I'd give it a shot.
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Oct 26, 2023 15:24
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Arc Hammer posted:May main concern with painting is joints and paint chipping. Do people normally just paint the large pieces and leave the joint assemblies unpainted to avoid friction damage to the paint job? I haven't been painting gunpla very long but I use the same rule I do for military models where most of the time I'll stick a gloss coat over anything I'm masking or might get chipped while the parts are moving. It's not a bad idea to leave the part of the joint that's going to have a lot of friction unpainted either as long as it's not noticeable. For pegs and such that might have trouble going together because of the paint I either avoid painting those parts at all or use an exacto blade to scrape off the paint before putting together. Gloss coat before masking isn't 100% necessary but I've had some bad luck when I don't do it, at least with Tamiya/Vallejo, Mr. Color acrylic seems to be a pretty tough finish. Probably not necessary at all for something with a harder finish like lacquer. Marx Headroom posted:The only things I personally hesitate to airbrush are highlights and detailing, because I'm not that good. For everything else the airbrush takes a fraction of the time to get better results. Certain highlights and small parts I'm fine masking or trying to be careful with airbrushing but I usually end up having to tough up with hand painting for really small details, and for something like a plane cockpit controls I'll spray primer and then hand paint the details. I'm not great at hand painting but it usually turns out pretty good. The one thing I'm still not good at all is painting the little pilot figures that come with some kits, I usually just skip them if they're not pre painted/colored.
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Oct 26, 2023 16:59
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Cat Hatter posted:Does Future floor polish still exist? That's been my go-to topcoat forever because it self levels really well, can be hand or airbrush applied, doesn't yellow, can be made flat with the right additive, and is cheap AF. I still have like half a bottle of Pledge floor polish with the same formula as Future from 6-7 years ago and I'm really hoping that it still exists in some form by the time I run out because it's better than any other gloss coat I've ever used.
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Oct 26, 2023 17:51
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CommunityEdition posted:Ok, to make sure I’ve got this right: if I want regions A and B to be different colors, the order would be: Yeah that's what I do, tho if color B is a small area I'll just paint the A color over the whole part and then just have to mask once after clear coat - it's what I did for anything that needed masking on my EVA-01 and that worked out well. The gloss in part 4 isn't 100% necessary, I've just been burned on models enough on masking even after waiting 24-48 hours that I (almost) always gloss between masking if possible. I really think Mr. Color would be fine without for the most part but Vallejo can be very soft until clear coated IME.
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Oct 26, 2023 23:35
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Nuebot posted:Welp I guess I have my excuse to get into 30mm kits now. Same. Their whole thing is pretty perfect for AC models though.
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Oct 28, 2023 16:26
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Got my Pacific Rim Gypsy Danger subassemblies together today after painting and clearcoating everything and wanted to try out the Tamiya enamel panel liner. If I've clear coated and the paint is all acrylic I should be good to use it with some mineral spirits to clean up the excess panel lining, right? I know to make sure it doesn't get under parts and such so the plastic doesn't crack but wasn't sure if there was anything to do otherwise or if I already asked this weeks ago. Also, this kit uses stickers so it shouldn't matter but if I'm doing a kit with waterslides should I put those on before or after panel lining?
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Nov 16, 2023 20:52
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Finished my Gypsy Avenger from the second Pacific Rim movie. Pretty great kit overall and pretty simple paint color ratios, and only really two colors plus the gold for the visor to paint. Only issue I have is that I'll have to wait to pose it any other way because it needs an action base 2 connector and I only have base 5s. 
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Nov 22, 2023 04:41
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Monkey Fracas posted:Oh poo poo in the deluge of PBandai stuff that's gone up I almost didn't notice the new HG Maxter is back; missed it the first time Oh nice thanks, hoping it lasts til i get home from work and can actually buy it.
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Nov 28, 2023 20:29
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Looks like the Maxter did not last, I hate P-Bandai so loving much. EDIT: Or maybe it did and I'm looking at the wrong link I dunno. I still hate P-Bandai. Mr E fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Nov 28, 2023 |
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Nov 28, 2023 22:25
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I would say setter and softer are necessary if you don't want to hate waterslides. Softer isn't necessary on every single decal but I do it anyway because it takes 1 second to brush some on and it makes them look a lot more painted on in general. I usually use a toothpick side to move the decals off the sheet tho a paintbrush or tweezers work fine too. The bottles of micro set/sol will probably last ages too and they're small/easy to store. I'm sure Mr. Color's versions of set/sol are great too though I haven't used them. Also, if you put one on and don't like the positioning it's usually pretty simple to put some more microset on and move it as long as you haven't softened yet. I honestly find waterslides in large quantities to be way easier than getting stickers on but that's probably because I started with tank/plane models that always have waterslides and no stickers. Something like the F-14 I put together a few years ago had around 80 waterslide decals and I was able to get them all on in the same day in a few hours. I will say that really big decals suck a lot and I'd prefer to use stickers for something bigger than an inch or two wide.
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Dec 13, 2023 18:18
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Phy posted:Sorry I don't remember, but do softer and setter attack plastic? Ie if you're using them should you shoot a clear undercoat first? I'm not sure if they attack plastic or not but I put down a gloss coat under any waterslide decals because it tends to make them easier to work with if they have a mostly consistent smooth surface underneath.
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Dec 13, 2023 19:34
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Delpi or (even tho it’s a funny name) SIMP model decals are really good IME. I’ve found the official ones to be fine but thicker and harder to work with than just about any other brand besides the mechagodzilla/eva kit I put together.
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Dec 14, 2023 22:22
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Sucks to hear about Vallejo, I like Mr color acrylics a lot but Vallejo has a lot more “premixed” colors for military models.
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Dec 21, 2023 17:58
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Set lets you put a decal down and still be able to move it if you need to, sol will stick the decal to the model but if you try and move it later it'll tear usually. I like using both so I don't have to be as careful while placing the decals. Usually let the set dry for 10-20 minutes then use sol. Set does soften the decal but not as much.
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Jan 5, 2024 01:28
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White and yellow suck a lot to paint, good job everyone on all the kits this page tho. Speaking of painting white and yellow, I'm starting on EVA 08 and it has a good amount of white, pink, and yellow. I've heard that putting a pink base coat down helps on yellow coverage but I wasn't sure if it was really worth it or not, may give it a shot still. I've used white primer for all three colors which should help some but not looking too forward to paint those colors in general.
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Jan 5, 2024 18:11
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I use a 30 year old computer desk as my main table but it that ever finishes falling apart I will probably do what I did with my computer desk and just put together a table with a butcher block, stain it, and add some legs. Best desk I've ever had and cost about as much as buying a normal desk or table since I'm not near Ikea or anything.
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Jan 9, 2024 20:01
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I need to put mine together I got from Backlogust, maybe after the Eva I'm working on since it's a Rei from Evangelion version. Never have had good luck with Hasegawa's military stuff cause they tend to nickel and dime you for weapons instead of including them and that just made me mad, plus their F-22 just didn't go together like I thought it should.
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Jan 11, 2024 00:24
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Tin Tim posted:Questions for the painters itt. If you want to stick with acrylics I put a gloss coat before assembling usually and then go over that with maybe another gloss after decals if I really feel the need but usually just go with matte coating and haven't ever had issues with military or gunpla scraping. You might get that issue if you put on too thick of paint layers, though. Just be careful with matte coats around clear parts.
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Jan 13, 2024 00:03
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Finshed my EVA 08a yesterday, yellow is still a nightmare to paint but the rest went pretty smooth. One day I'll have a place to take photos instead of where I finished building it.  
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Mar 1, 2024 00:14
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I sometimes use applicators that are sold as for superglue, have tiny brushes at the end. Usually through I just use a toothpick, as long as you're not directly stabbing the decal it works really well to move them around.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:50
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If you're airbrushing it also depends on whether you can fully vent out the fumes as to whether you should use acrylic or lacquer too, though acrylic is not as non-toxic as many would like to believe either.
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Apr 15, 2024 22:01
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