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MJP posted:Has anyone attempted a fade/gradient with an airbrush? I plan on doing the base of the Mercurius' beam saber red and gradienting a light pink. Is it really just as simple as very thin lines of color, with progressively less back-pressure on the brush? My understanding is that it's much more a matter of layering and paint opacity.
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Nov 3, 2014 20:01
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MJP posted:What if I want the core to be red and the edges pinkish? Would I just do the chrome/red candy coat, then do very thin pink layers progressively outwards? You may want to use a regular brush
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Nov 3, 2014 21:46
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I think most stuff you'd really want to paint a Gundam with will be fine. Acrylics and alcohol paints (I think) should be fine. If you want to use a special paint that melts plastic, there are also primers out there made for plastic which help prevent destruction.
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Nov 5, 2014 18:40
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Finally a use for my CMY paints without mixing
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Nov 6, 2014 15:18
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BizarroAzrael posted:What are some good paints that will run through an airbrush but also work with brushes? I know Tamiya don't get on with being brushed on, and Citadel works but I expect I can get cheaper than GW stuff. Minitaire and Vallejo
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Nov 6, 2014 17:09
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Might want to invest in a cheap electric toothbrush or scrubber
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Nov 9, 2014 01:02
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Now that's a gouf I could see buying
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Nov 10, 2014 03:59
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Dj Meow Mix posted:I watched a roommate build the k9, it's pretty cool. I had fun posing it in Naked Snake-esque poses with the pistol and knife when he wasn't around, kinda makes me want to buy a couple and do some weird paint jobs. Buy it and pose it with a AGE Spallow for max ninja
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Nov 10, 2014 15:31
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You can also buy like 100 #11 blades in a pack that is cheap as hell per blade, like 15 cents each or some poo poo
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Nov 10, 2014 17:03
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That sounds like some informercial style fuckup dude
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Nov 10, 2014 21:14
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Could you not even it out with a little too much varnish
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Nov 11, 2014 07:53
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Thanks for making me aware of this, holy poo poo I did not want to pay like 9x as much for Tamiya
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Nov 13, 2014 01:39
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MJP posted:If you (or anyone else) can't find it just PM me, I'll send happily. It is on Amazon as a add-on item, 8 bucks for 510 swabs NICE
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Nov 13, 2014 04:32
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I still don't "get" building a gundam in one day
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Nov 15, 2014 14:54
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TaurusOxford posted:It's not that hard. Hell, a HG kit is something that can be knocked out in about 2 hours, tops. With all the sanding and the lining and the whatnot
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Nov 15, 2014 15:06
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TaurusOxford posted:Yeah, there's your problem. I just shave off the nub with my hobby knife, dab an appropriately colored marker on the spot and wipe off the excess with a paper towel. I don't even do that most of the time. Clip once with a xuron and done
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Nov 15, 2014 15:21
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Crosspostin' I'd like to sell you guys something: Montana brand Silver (Metallic) Alcohol Dye Ink This stuff is super, super thin, comes in a dropper bottle, and is incredibly opaque. I'm willing to take up any experiments people would like me to try on this stuff, but basically the thing I've found it's great for right out of the bottle with no other prep or overlay is a brushed aluminum color and texture. Since it's so thin, it shows brush strokes pretty easily. If you use a marker it's not as bad but yeah, it does show brush strokes. While that's not so great for a chrome look, brushed aluminum is cool with me. Here's a pic I took of using this stuff on bare sprue over some text  And here's how it responds to a flash. Very very shiny.  4.27 for 25 ml. I'll be getting some mileage out of this stuff for sure.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:19
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You could try thinning it with some rubbing alcohol and see if it goes on smoother after that. I'd rather just spray it to be honest. It's plenty thin enough for that and is actually a recommended method of application. But I will try it for science.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:33
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Anyone seriously interested in using markers should take a look at refillable markers in my opinion, instead of using gundam markers. Assuming you aren't just buying markers that are the color of the gundam's plastic to cover sprue cuts that is.
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Nov 17, 2014 17:03
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You guys totally got me interested and I looked up what a Gundam X looks like and now I'm glad I have personal preferences because I laughed and didn't buy it
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Nov 18, 2014 02:56
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Uznare posted:No wonder you're friends with Dickeye. Badpinions aplenty to be had!!! Dickeye actually gives me poo poo all the time for the models I do like. Namely the AGE-1 models. I freely accept all criticism, I just like what I like. I said what I said before really as a "man I'm glad I didn't spend money today"
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Nov 18, 2014 03:17
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Holy poo poo that rules
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Nov 19, 2014 06:32
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Whoever suggested a Copic Multiliner SP 0.03, thanks, this thing is great
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Nov 24, 2014 03:39
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Just wanna say I hella appreciate your painting pics
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Nov 29, 2014 04:11
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MJP posted:Oh cool, glad they're useful! To be honest, I've got the budget to get decent supplies, just very little time. If nothing else, I don't really consider myself into painting kits - I did the shoulders, but that's only because I had to fill the seams. Also that beam bazooka, holy CRAP did I screw it up. Moral of the story: always always always at least start with Extra Thin, and don't use Mr. Surfacer as a filler. Use it as a surfacer (revolutionary, that) If you want a tiny gap filler I recommend Liquid Greenstuff
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Nov 29, 2014 04:35
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BizarroAzrael posted:I always think the Astrays have the Punisher symbol on their chest. That rules though
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Dec 1, 2014 15:49
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Tenzarin posted:So I'm about to start learning to work with paints when everything gets in and I got a question. Can I use testors dullcoat on acrylic paint? I've read two different answers on the web. Or should I order some Mr. Top coat for double the price? Dullcote is great on acrylics, but for protection's sake I'd do a shot of glosscote first, then dullcote on top.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:37
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Tenzarin posted:Wouldn't testors gloss coat and dullcote run me as much as Mr Topcoat but would need 2 applications? It'd also be protected as gently caress. This is coming from the world of miniatures though, where that's a concern. Glosscote + dullcote is the gold standard for miniatures protection from a spray can, and like 99.99% of minis painters use acrylics.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:59
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:How do you guys store your gunpla? Unassembled in boxes
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Dec 7, 2014 17:19
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Did someone say Ikea?
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Dec 7, 2014 17:36
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No idea yet. I got it for my wife in September...
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Dec 7, 2014 17:55
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MJP posted:Also, what do you guys like for storing your paints? My old audio cassette drawer thing is too wide and far out, gonna get one or two of these if nobody has better ideas: http://www.lowes.com/pd_568747-74640-0931_0__?productId=50253151 
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Dec 8, 2014 04:26
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What's your budget for this? There's some good poo poo you can get made or bought that's actually designed for this purpose, like this:
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Dec 8, 2014 07:35
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I have an untouched MG strike noir if you're interested
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Dec 8, 2014 17:47
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Warmachine posted:This gets asked every three pages, but what is a good entry level airbrush setup? You basically need A budget Airbrush Compressor The right hoses and/or adapters to make connections to your compressor and airbrush Something to catch overspray (like a cardboard box or a spray booth) Moisture trap Paint optional: Airbrush paint thinner optional: bottles You also need to figure out whether you want gravity feed or siphon feed. Gravity feed means that you put paint in a cup on top of the brush and the paint drips into the airline by gravity. Siphon feed uses little bottles attached to the bottom of the brush, and it uses air pressure/vacuum to suck paint into the airline. Either one works, and it's all personal preference. The Badger Patriot gets recommended a lot because it's very easy to work with. I use the 155 which is the siphon feed version of the Patriot. I highly recommend either one. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Dec 13, 2014 |
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Dec 13, 2014 13:38
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Ka0 posted:If it has issues maintaining constant pressure you might need to hook it up to a tank Yep. I just use a lil half-gallon tank and leave it running while I work.
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Dec 13, 2014 15:28
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I have files and I have sandpaper and I dislike both of them. What's a nice convenient way of sanding? Sanding sticks? What brand? I desire to spend money to make sanding convenient.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:26
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Literally The Worst posted:Get a pair of itty bitty tweezers, they make decal work a breeze. You can get them online for like ten bucks. Monoeyes, regular eyes, scopes, the gold poo poo on the Sinanju, all easier thanks to tiny tweezers. I like the Tamiya tweezers because they're coated in something that makes the decals not stick to them.
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Dec 27, 2014 19:54
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madpanda posted:How are they for pulling tiny decals off of the sheet? My current par has one side bent so I can get under decals. You squeeze them
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Dec 27, 2014 21:56
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Warmachine posted:I bumped my new G-Self to the front of the line, partially because it was going to be an easier job to build and paint, and partially because it gave me an excuse to go out and buy new paints. Trying out Tamiya stuff for the first time, and boy do I now hate Citadel. No more Warhammer leftovers from now on. I'll deal with the risk of getting high off of the toxic, flammable paints. Risk?
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Dec 28, 2014 00:50
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