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Not sure I understand your question, but the Gundam 2.0 adopted something of an "anime-accurate" styling direction that makes it look really out of place next to any other MG IMO. It's got a certain retro charm though, and is just an amazingly well-designed, top quality kit.
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Dec 9, 2014 16:50
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You certainly can go wrong with the original MG Gouf and its Custom variant, they are Bad Kits.
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Dec 10, 2014 03:05
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Almost every single one of Gtoy's 2014 predictions turned out to be wrong and there's no reason to expect this round to be any different.
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Jan 4, 2015 03:30
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Anyway, I've finally cracked and I'm trying to hunt down an afforable MG The O. It's not going well It's not gonna go well when you build it either. Still, I wouldn't trade mine for five better kits.
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Jan 8, 2015 12:45
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I haven't built my GX yet, what needs looking out for? Also: Honest Ray posted:So I kind of screwed up my reverse wash on my Kshatriya and need to strip some enamel off since it's got some unsightly bubble in it. Whats the best way to go about this without ruining the pieces? My other ones turned out halfway decent, not as great as I hoped but still pretty decent for a first attempt. Thanks for your help! Paint thinner should never be used for stripping paint from plastic and mineral spirits are not advised either. Article here that specifies some plastic-safe stripping solutions. I prefer to use Easy Lift-Off, which is formulated for plastic and very effective one can will last you drat near forever. Tip for repainting: pure white paint is not very opaque. Hit those parts with a light grey primer first and you won't need to drown them in white.
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Jan 9, 2015 08:53
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I assume that once those clear panels on the solar array are snapped in there they're in there for good?
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Jan 9, 2015 09:53
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Hell, I used nail clippers for years and they made a cleaner cut than 90 percent of the nippers I've tried.
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Jan 9, 2015 20:22
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Don't knock it till you've tried it. My Xuron cuts less cleanly than a fresh pair of clippers did. I only stopped using them because I changed my approach and they're also a pain in the rear end to get in at certain angles. edit: actually my Xuron nippers are among my least-loved tool purchases, since I found the cut quality to be no better than a meatball Radio shack wirecutter at three times the price. I still use them for first-stage parts removal but for fine work, as always, nothing beats my trusty pleezers. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jan 9, 2015 |
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Jan 9, 2015 21:18
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I would gladly get me an MG X Divider if they would just, you know, make one. edit: my hands are prone to all sorts of aches and pains but I've never experienced any notable discomfort using despruing tweezers. I only use them to cut the very thinnest part of the gate, though to cut thicker sprue I go with the stronger bite of your standard nippers, and I use the two-stage cutting process specifically so I can get the best and most comfortable angle to make the final "beauty cut" with the tweezers. The GodHand seems sort of silly and overpriced based on the not-so-great results I've seen from it. One thing I do like about it, though, is the extreme thinness of the cutting blade the thick, wedge-shaped blades of standard nippers tend to twist parts when cutting through thick sprue, which can lead to tearing at the gate or even breakage, and even exercising all caution is sometimes not enough to keep this from happening. A tool that doesn't lose its edge in the very first week of use is also worth paying extra for, IMO. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 01:25
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Glad to see someone filling the serious lack of Warcraft shoulderpads in contemporary MS design.
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Jan 10, 2015 04:12
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Swagger Dagger posted:Do all transformable kits look like total rear end when transformed Yes.
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Jan 10, 2015 12:24
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Tenzarin posted:On a flat large area, sanding in one direction you can induce a slope if you are too rough though. How do you stop that? That's where hard sanding sticks like this come in handy - you can buy them premade or make your own by supergluing sandpaper to thick sheet plastic. Beyond that, you have to eyeball the surface as you sand to make sure you're keeping it level and just be generally careful. It's a lot harder than it sounds and is very much a learned skill. (softer sanding sticks will generally round off sharp edges and flat planes in very little time and I've found less and less use for them on mecha kits as the years roll on . sandpaper alone is good for rounded surfaces and very little else)
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Jan 15, 2015 23:47
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My hard sticks start at 800 grit so they're not nearly as destructive as files but you have to take particular care not to deform surfaces when using any abrasive tool IMO.
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Jan 16, 2015 00:09
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Almost any paint will suffice really. Also handy for tightening loose joints.
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Jan 22, 2015 09:42
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Probably the best no-risk option for airbrush practice would be one or two 100-count packs of white plastic spoons, which will give you a lot more raw material to work with than any comparably priced model kit.
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Jan 23, 2015 02:41
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You shouldn't spray indoors without a spray booth, period: all-around bad idea for any number of reasons.
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Jan 24, 2015 16:00
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Using bathroom or kitchen fans to vent enamels and lacquer spray is risky as hell : spraying directly into the path of the motor can cause the aerosolized paint to ignite, and I've seen words like "burned down" and "multiple skin grafts" used to describe the results. Spray booths require so-called "squirrel cage fans" that offset the motor from the airflow, but they're not cheap and matching the strength of the fan to any given enclosure is something of an arcane science. You'd be better off just buying a prefab booth, and it's not really optional equipment IMO.
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Jan 24, 2015 21:35
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Any airbrush part not made of metal (O-rings, plastic handles, etc.) should be set aside, but the metal bits should be perfectly safe to soak in anything short of battery acid. Cleaning airbrushes is a huge pain, but again not really optional.
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Jan 25, 2015 02:17
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For clarity's sake, the Tallgeese III is just the regular old sockmonkey mold with an HG badge slapped on the box because there was a period of time in the latter half of the '90s when Bandai pretty much forgot what the words "High Grade" actually imply. edit: VVV by modern standards, maybe, but they were poo poo-hot high-quality stuff at the time, as opposed to the old faux-HG 1/144s which were almost never good even when they were new. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 07:50
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Can't decide if the psyco-frame funnels are ridiculous or awesome. Where are those from, anyway?
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Jan 26, 2015 05:43
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Vote, hell, it's old enough to drink. I honestly do not recall if I still have a spare of that kit or sold it long ago, but I'll try to dig through the vaults in the next couple of days and find out.
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Jan 26, 2015 18:52
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The Muffinlord posted:Is the color separation on the 1/100 G-Cannon Magna as bad as it looks? Worse, probably, and for some reason mine was one of the floppiest kits I've ever built (the normal version was fine.)
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Jan 26, 2015 19:23
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Just for laffs, here's what the Magna looks like straight out of the box: Expensive kit for the day, though that's due more to many leftover parts from the base G-Cannon than to any sort of fine quality. (no spare Hardygun yet, will notify if that changes) Bimmi fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 23:14
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I have the no-grade 1/100 00 Raiser and it is quite a bit simpler than the MG. Good-looking kit, very nice in some ways, but the GN Drive mounts cannot support the weight of the Raiser parts at all.
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Jan 27, 2015 06:10
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I'll go to bat for the MG ZZ not being completely terrible but there's no denying it has issues: it would probably be happiest perched on an Action Base and never, ever moved from that. The HGUC lacks many of the problematic mechanisms that make the MG so unstable and is obviously the saner choice.
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Jan 28, 2015 04:22
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Numbers I found were GM09 Eye Green, GM15 Fluorescent Green, GM14 Fluorescent Pink and GM08 Gundam Yellow, which should cover you for the various eye colors.
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Jan 29, 2015 17:31
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I've seen worse.
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Feb 14, 2015 07:39
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Mika Akitaka designed some great mobile suits, but he's also responsible for the whole MS Girl thing so I'm not sure how to feel about him.
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Feb 14, 2015 10:03
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So, Pacific Rim plamo: I have absolutely no information on this, not even a manufacturer, but apparently it's a thing that is going to (maybe) happen.
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Feb 14, 2015 23:54
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Surprised Max Factory is still a thing. They used to make pretty nice vinyl kits but I haven't seen anything notable from them in a good 20 years.
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Feb 15, 2015 02:21
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Another view: Not sure what exactly we're looking at here it doesn't appear to be printed and mold masters aren't usually the size of the final kit, but it doesn't really look finished either.
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Feb 15, 2015 02:53
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Fauxtool posted:http://myfigurecollection.net/search.php?manufacturer_strict=1&manufacturer_id=7622. Pretty easy for this to pass under my radar given what it consists of. Their kits used to be pretty common at US comics shops until one day they weren't so I don't know what happened there. All I ever saw them do afterwards were these figure kits and I assumed they were slumming. Dunno what happened to Max Watanabe either, he used to be something of an ubiquitous presence but I haven't seen a new model from him in years. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 05:50
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Droyer posted:Max Factory also made the recent Dougram model kits. Well, how the hell did I miss that? Anyone built them?
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Feb 15, 2015 13:17
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I got my first mecha kit at an office supplies store.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:10
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DupliColor seems to be a popular budget primer choice for some people but I have never been able to get good results with any variety of it. Tamiya or go home in my book, it's more than worth the extra money.
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Feb 17, 2015 00:06
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Ka0 posted:with the origin thing going on they might make a newer mold. Origin Zaku is coming in April and looks pretty baller:  Bit pricey at ₯1700, but detail and posability look to be well above any other HG Zaku out there. e: welp.
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Feb 17, 2015 02:54
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Presumably the missile pods could be emptied and/or ejected before engaging in close combat. On the other hand, this is also a thing that exists: DOWNSIDE WHAT DOWNSIDE IT'S BRILLIANT I TELL YOU.
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Feb 17, 2015 03:47
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You can prime on sprues, though it's not generally done. Standard practice is to desprue and clean up all parts first, and it's up to the modeler to determine what can be built into discrete sub-assemblies before painting and which have to be left separate. Doing full paint jobs on mecha kits pretty much requires that you figure out the final assembly on your own, since the job can involve literally hundreds of separate parts, but if a part has surfaces that will be invisible on the final build you can add the part # with a marker or scriber for later reference. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Feb 17, 2015 |
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Feb 17, 2015 17:04
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Wouldn't that be significantly easier on MGs/other models with inner frames? Since you could just assemble it with instructions, then strip the armour off it, prime/paint/topcoat, then just fit it all back onto the inner frame? I'm not really sure what you're saying here, but painting a full MG inner frame in one go is not something I would personally do. Too many small areas that won't get covered, possible issues with paint getting in moving parts, awkward prospect in general. It's not really that hard to keep track of and re-assemble un-numbered parts once you've done it a few times, unless it's some complicated esoteric engineering nightmare like the Ex-S or whatever. And figuring out how much of the kit you can pre-assemble while still being able to easily paint those assemblies is very much part of it. For things like older no-grade kits it's kind of a different story: those kits will have lots of seam lines that have to be glued and cleaned up before any kind of painting occurs.
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Feb 17, 2015 17:45
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That's the way it's generally done but things like leg and arm frames still tend to get broken down to their larger components for better coverage and easier handling.
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Feb 17, 2015 17:52
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