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Cool, a new thread. Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV: Build Fighters still working as intended, but this is pretty good. I need to take pictures of all the stuff I've finished at some point. But that means I hafta pose those robots, and at least one of them want an action base pretty badly. Not to mention panel lining. And I need to decide on faces for my Beargguy-san. And most of them require topcoat. I can post a picture of my completed/WIP boxes shelf, at least?  The five actual kits on the right aren't out, due to my work on them being kinda crap. The Strike Freedom actually isn't finished, because I require some gloves to stop from smudging up the wings. I have learned that I hate RGs in my Gunpla journey so far, though? 
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Nov 2, 2014 00:11
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Fauxtool posted:whats with all these casuals making GBS threads up the thread. your addiction isnt even that crippling I'll get there eventually. 
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Nov 2, 2014 00:23
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How did I start this discussion when I didn't even post a backlog. 
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Nov 2, 2014 03:39
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Tenzarin posted:Why is there a zippo can in that picture, do you use lighter fluid to start up the engines? Lighter fluid can be used for panel line washes, at least. There are probably like 12 other uses for it that I don't know of, though. 
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Nov 2, 2014 04:01
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Is the Extra Finish line even remotely worth bothering with? They look pretty neat, but the markup is pretty drat steep, and I can imagine hiding nubs/sanding marks is a right pain in the rear end. Basically, please talk me out of preordering the RG Exia Extra Finish from Genteikits. e: some pictures Dalong has up of them make the nubs very prominent in comparison to their normal counterparts. Zwingley fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 6, 2014 23:55
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Fair enough to both of those points. Thank you for saving me many dollars.
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Nov 7, 2014 00:50
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MJP posted:With thanks to the goons who responded in the SA-mart thread request, I think I'm the first person in the USA with these bad boys. Man, I wish I'd seen that thread.  The Beargguy would have made a good Christmas present from me, too.What action base should I be using for RGs? There's no way in hell the Destiny nor the Strike Freedom are standing up on their own. GP bases don't work without a connector that doesn't seem to be supplied (I could be wrong about this), so Action Base 2?
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Nov 7, 2014 18:30
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Does Bandai have a release calendar like this for December yet? I want to know if I can just barely squeeze the Winning Gundam into my HLJ shipment of Build Fighters Try cocaine before it ships out due to the 60-day time limit on my Build Burning Gundam.
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Nov 10, 2014 21:21
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I need that Exia. I need all the Exias. I even need another plain MG Exia, because my Ignition Mode is becoming an RI. Otherwise I really need to give my wallet a rest for the near future. It's just so hard.  e: Swagger Dagger posted:Gonna buy every HGBF. All of them. This too. Sort of. Zwingley fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 20, 2014 |
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Nov 20, 2014 19:27
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Fauxtool posted:well dont do that. A metal file is essentially a saw on plastic. I use a metal file and a 3-step nail buffing bar, and it works alright. But if you let that file touch a piece with anything remotely approaching the weight of a drat feather, you're gonna chew up your plastic. And you'll need to sand for a good finish no matter how well you file, so you can probably cut the middle man.
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Nov 23, 2014 04:22
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Swagger Dagger posted:Star Build Strike vs 
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Dec 1, 2014 21:33
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Can anyone give me some words about the quality of the HG Age Farsia? Here. Dalong doesn't do Age reviews, apparently. I don't know poo poo about Age, but it seems like it would look okay getting trashed by my Miss Sazabi or something.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:31
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:It is on Dalong, but AGE is in it's own category. Well now I've got egg on my face. Thanks much, though.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:36
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Can we officially say we have enough 00/Exia-inspired designs now. No. There are never enough Exias.
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Jan 15, 2015 11:31
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What is the simplest and least potentially gently caress uppable way to add material to a piece? The white piece that goes over the translucent blue on one of my Build Burning's forearms/elbows is falling off goddamn constantly, and I think that's the only way I can fix it.
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Jan 22, 2015 06:29
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Well, I feel dumb; I was probably about to go try putty in some capacity. Topcoat is definitely simpler.
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Jan 22, 2015 06:51
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All you need to know about BFTry: Halfway through the series our Lord and Savior Meijin Kawaguchi III descends from the heavens at six times the passion to instill life in the series by reminding everyone of the universal law of Gunpla Battle: It Is Fun. The new thread title says everything else.
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Feb 9, 2015 21:01
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Broken Loose posted:You're understating it. The sky opened and Kawaguchi literally descended through on a rainbow of wish particles. He then chewed out the entire cast for not having enough fun, triggered all the mid-season upgrades, and then peeled off into the sunset on a motorcycle. All true. But it's important to start at the beginning. He also yelled "Go!" when he peeled off on the motorcycle.  Yes I have a huge man-crush, why do you ask?
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Feb 9, 2015 21:34
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Tenzarin posted:Think 3 SD kits could combine to make a kit larger than an HG? Huhm. Uh, warning, BlitzBlast; I haven't done any work on this SD DX yet, so it's just a kit that got built a decade ago and never cleaned up. Blow up the pictures at your own risk.  Anyway, pardon the mess.   ...Maybe? Given the right SD kits?
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Feb 10, 2015 01:29
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Vahtooch posted:Well that's settled it, there's my night sorted. I need to see this Good.
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Feb 10, 2015 04:02
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I liked playing with my robots for the thread the other day, so I did more! Here's an update on HG vs 3x SD size comparisons. Sorry SD DX, your V-fin had to be sacrificed in the name of   The DX and Bakunetsu Gundam (AKA the one on top) are from the older SD line/set of molds and therefore maybe not as tall as newer models would be? I'm losing some height on the 00 because of how far apart I have to spread his legs to get him to stand on the satellite cannons. Also the Try Burning is a little shorter than the Build Burning, so if the S x D x G kits are good-sized, the scale might be something resembling okay? Maybe I'll do a pseudo-diorama with the S1 protagonist suits when I finish up the Winning and Lightning. 
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Feb 12, 2015 08:01
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JIGEN HAOH RYU! POSE NO GUNPLA!  Shame the right hand looks so stiff. I really like this kit. I don't know if the extra bulk on the Try Burning will interfere with any shenanigans like this. But for now, it's time to take a bit of a break and work on the Winning before I bust out the MG Tallgeese III. 
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Feb 19, 2015 06:19
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More sandingtalk: I'm continuing to get fairly good results from (very carefully) using a metal file and a 3-step nail buffing bar; I can almost always get a piece back to looking totally untouched, even dry. Problem is, I sometimes lose surface detail or wind up slightly rounding edges that are supposed to be sharp, especially with the buffing bar in the latter case. Do I just need to get better at this lest I risk sullying the kits I'm saving for ~perfect builds~ or whatever bullshit I've got in the back of my head to excuse my backlog?
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Mar 5, 2015 03:49
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Suzaku posted:Well, using a metal file for anything other than major plastic removal is a really bad idea. You're better off with 320-grit sandpaper to start instead, unless you've got some major sprue nubs to start sanding down. The metal file should never, ever touch the part itself, unless it's to remove a ton of plastic. The metal absolutely never touches the part, yeah; I decided to be extra sure of that after I tested the thing for the first time on a spare runner. I'm still very glad I thought to do that before starting on my SD FA Unicorn. I've had the same luck with popsicle stick+sandpaper, honestly, which is why I've been sticking to the buffing bar. But it's been long enough that I'm probably better at sanding, so maybe a sanding stick would be a better idea, now. e: Bimmi posted:It is really, really difficult to keep from rounding off flat surfaces when sanding. I have a lot of practice and specialized tools for the job and I still gently caress up all the time. It doesn't take much, tell you what. I'm making an assumption based on what I've seen you post that you've been at this for a long-rear end time, so if you still have trouble with it I guess I should half-resign myself to rounded edges and just resolve to take as much time as it needs. Zwingley fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 04:07
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The Lightning is actually what made me finally ask, because it's a pretty rad kit that I like a lot and I wish I could have done it justice. Best picture I can get with my phone, but I lost the raised edge along the backs of both legs halfway down the piece going after the nub. I mean, part of the problem was that shoddy trimming had left that drat stress mark that I wanted to get out yet honestly knew wasn't going to happen ever, but still. I can't exactly re-scribe that, so it comes down to getting better and trying again when I have more money. On the other hand, this example totally proves that I need a more rigid sanding stick.
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Mar 5, 2015 04:49
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Tenzarin posted:That actually looks pretty good. Those are the results you are going to see with out going alot further into the plastic. Flat coat will cover most of it except the really dark spot. Sanding can't really get rid of nub marks. Sure you can level it out but something is going to be left. Huh. Should I have sanded through the first raised edge and just leveled the piece to the actual corner? I'm not even remotely sure, honestly.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:24
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That makes two of the four MGBF kits I need in my life.  Well, I guess I need five, if you count the Amazing Exia Repair, but...
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Mar 23, 2015 16:46
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Zedd posted:Gundam X Maoh and Normal Fenice being the other 2? Amazing Exia and normal Fenice. So probably one web shop exclusive. Possibly two.
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Mar 23, 2015 17:55
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I guess I can understand people calling protagonist suits boring. After all, the Exia is perfect, and apparently some people find perfection boring. I just can't empathize with them.  For real though most mobile suits are rad and I'm always glad to see people in this thread showing off cool designs that I otherwise wouldn't look twice at. I usually come to appreciate them, too.
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Mar 24, 2015 03:44
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DigitalRaven posted:Definitely. I think someone earlier in this thread had pictures of it balanced upside down on just one hand. It's really well made. Yep! It's the Build Burning, not the Try Burning, but considering the differences between them are pretty minimal, I can't imagine not being able to get the Try Burning up on one hand too.
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Mar 25, 2015 15:08
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closeted republican posted:Where's my HGCC Kapool, SUMO, and Turn-X Bandai? You forgot Prometheus, and by extension the rest of the Frozen Teardrop suits.
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Apr 14, 2015 16:27
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Welp. gently caress. A really unfortunate mistake on my part has left me needing a new I-1 21 for my MG Tallgeese III. Approximately how hosed am I if I want a replacement piece/runner, given that's one of the parts added for the web exclusive?
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Apr 23, 2015 06:29
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Phew, I figured it'd be higher.  I guess it's time to ruin one of my test kits and practice how to cement really loving well. Maybe try a hand at using putty, too. I'll come begging for help with something in a few days.
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Apr 23, 2015 06:40
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Bimmi posted:That's rotten luck. What happened exactly? Can we get a photo of the victim? Having slept on it, it's a lot less rotten luck and a lot more lack of care. It came down to me using way, way, way too much force to try and reposition the rifle after it slipped out of place and not really understanding where that force was going. One of the joints the rifle sits on had turned, so I was pretty much pushing at nothing, and something had to give and welp  Straight up my fault. It's a really painful wakeup call and I wish it had been on almost any other kit, but a really good learning experience.
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Apr 23, 2015 17:53
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Thanks guys.  e: oh God conflicting opinions what do I do
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Apr 23, 2015 18:14
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I'm gonna need to buy something new for this regardless; I have some Testor's plastic cement right now, but I don't trust the metal applicator for this in the least. The break is really clean and when pressed together everything lines up about as well as I could hope for.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:33
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BlitzBlast posted:If all you have is Testors, you really should pick up some Tamiya plastic cement. That stuff is on the way from Amazon as we post. But there's no way I'm skimping on effort for fixing this piece and as well as I can, short of giving it over to someone for them to make a resin mold of it or something. So lay all the knowledge on me. The odds of me doing this again in the future are pretty drat high, regardless of how careful I am.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:47
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Bimmi posted:Yeah. Tamiya's good stuff. I'd recommend the regular type over Extra Thin, which is really more of a specialty-application sort of thing. This stuff? And for my own edification, Gunze Sangyo just refers to the "Mr. Color/Hobby/Cement/etc." stuff, right?
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Apr 23, 2015 18:54
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Tenzarin posted:Link the manual page it is used. May not be that bad. I have a picture of the parts laid out at present; I can snap a shot of the manual when I get home.  Mentally rotate the middle part away from the camera, hook it under and slide the broken piece's ball joint into a polycap. The broken piece is what holds the weight/holsters the rifle behind it when not in use, and lets the kit keep a firing position when it is.
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Apr 23, 2015 22:58
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Tenzarin posted:Link the manual page it is used. May not be that bad. Follow-up in three parts. Initially:  New angle for the next step:  Rifle attachment: 
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Apr 24, 2015 02:08
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