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Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. Here’s a gallery with most of what I’ve built this year:  Mostly 0078 HGs, cleaned up and panel lined with the thin tip pens. I just finished a Gundam MK2, and did some quick detailing with black and silver, and a flat topcoat. It was also my first time gluing parts (the backpack) and I’m happy that it didn’t turn into a blob of polystyrene fingerprints like all the P-51s I attempted as a kid. Please roast away (seriously, looking for feedback):    Basically, I’m fully hooked at this point. I’m building a HG Gyan Revive now, then I’ll probably start a Calibarn and then my first MG, Quatto’s Rick Dias. I’m kind of at a spot right now. I don’t know if I should get a set of pens and try shading, or just buy the bullet and buy an airbrush so I can ‘fix’ the weird mustard plastic of the Gyan’s accessories and spray top coat, and start panel lining and doing water slide decals over gloss. Yeah, I’m going to buy the markers and an airbrush.
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Apr 10, 2024 18:41
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Boys who love boys
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 21:18 |
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Finished snap building my Gyan last night.   Grey panel lining looks pretty good on the legs so I’ll carry that through. I’m not 100% sure what I want to do on the dark blue. I’ll try my gray and black pens on it later. Hopefully that looks okay because don’t think I have the discipline or skill to dry brush highlights so, and it would probably look bad if I didn’t carry that through the whole kit. Warmachine posted:Learn to hand paint… Yup. Thinking about doing the little ab insert in light gray-silver instead of using the sticker and painting the backpack in gunmetal. I’ve got Tamiya paints so I’ll thin them slightly with IPA and aim for 2-3 coats. I’m second guessing the flat topcoat, I think this robot knight really needs a little sheen. I don’t think I’ve made any boo-boos that need hiding, so I’ll probably just leave it until if/when I have satin or semi-gloss on hand. And order another kit for when my airbrush game is up to shooting pearls. Neddy Seagoon posted:With thruster nozzles I tend to do the inside in gold and the outside in silver for contrast. It's also really easy to colour-separate if you do the gold first, then just paint it silver around the outside and the edge of the nozzle cone to cover any overlap. Hell yeah. I’m not totally happy with gunmetal out/silver in. I think I want to get something that approximates titanium (muted gold) and try that on the Rick Dias. Not sure if I want inside the bell to be brighter or darker than the outside, better go scroll peoples builds for the rest of the afternoon.
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Apr 11, 2024 20:55
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Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track. But yeah, ‘just do it’ is good advice. Thank you. I’ve got my first set of reading glasses and a new lamp waiting on the porch for me. I’m going to mix up a little mid-gray and try panel lining the dark blue tonight because like you said, I can always wipe it back off.
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Apr 11, 2024 22:35
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:… This is one of the most interesting parts of painting to me. It’s not about accuracy, it’s about verisimilitude and often the hacky approximations look way better than detail in miniature. So much to play around with. Marx Headroom posted:Also remember the 2 feet rule: … Good point. Plan B is shouting, “Those aren’t stress marks, it’s wabi-sabi you ignorant barbarian!”
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Apr 12, 2024 00:01
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Phy posted:Wabi Zabi's custom 'battle damaged' Zaku Oh drat, going to kintsugi this mecha back together for one last fight
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Apr 12, 2024 02:50
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:the best advice, for painting, I ever got is paint what you see. not what you think is supposed to go there  mllaneza posted:In the same vein, don't take your first hi-res photo of a kit when you think it's finished and ready to be posted. Take one, or a series, when you start thinking you might be done. You will see so many little things you missed when it's on a web page in all its glory. No kidding. I can see like 8 fuckups in this pic but holistically it's fine.   More pics here, feel free to talk poo poo. Brush painting with Tamiya was okay. I was surprised by how quickly it dries so it was hard keeping a wet edge moving on the backpack. Coverage was good and the finish was better than anything I ever achieved with Testors back in the day. I was only thinning with rubbing alcohol, so I'm sure better solvents will produce a smoother finish. I did a couple of spots of pale silver that turned out good. I did a little gunmetal on the bottom of the feet while the backpack dried and that turned out alright (not pictured because it would 100% look like poo poo in hirez). ETA: I did a wash of light gray on the dark blue but it looked like poo poo so I wiped it off and used the black pen.
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Apr 12, 2024 20:18
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Mr Teatime posted:I’m just slightly suspicious because I’ve seen more than one post bemoaning how panel liner destroyed their plastic after they cleaned it up with acetone. Gunpla hobby folks seem quite happy to blast their kits with lacquer based paints and varnishes which frankly I thought would be much hotter than an enamel pin wash. Ugh, god this. I have moderate experience with paint and solvents (automotive urethanes, oil-based paints and varnishes, recreational huffing, etc) but never have I seen so many chemistries in such a small project. It doesn’t help that most of the products are literally in Japanese and the naming/labeling is vague otherwise. My kingdom for Mr. Datasheet (in English). I’m starting to buy paints so please tell me if I have this wrong: Acrylics are water based and safe to use, brush or otherwise on all plastics or chemistries. Non-toxic, but fragile surface. Enamels have more aggressive solvents, but are sometimes okay to use on plastic and over lacquer in moderation. This makes sense, I remember using fuckin MEK* to thin enamels BITD as well as melting PS together. Will murk ABS. Good for picking out details Lacquer - strongest final film/most aggressive solvent. Top coating over other chemistries is okay/good. However, if you were to absolutely soak your model or brush (mechanically agitate) lacquer you might gently caress up the underlying paint.
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Apr 14, 2024 20:52
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Yeah, I saw that specifically about Mr Super Clear after talking with a buddy last night how baller that is for other craft projects. Sounds like Mr Top Coat would be better for over water slides and acrylics. I’m assuming Tamiya topcoats are okay over acrylic because that’s their primary formulation.
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Apr 14, 2024 21:09
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I’ve been building the HG Calibarn the last few days. Really neat kit, fun build and it looks cool. I was almost disappointed how little cleanup I had to do, no seams or mold lines and there wasn’t much for me to color correct/paint. Backpack boosters and bustle: I got u fam
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Apr 17, 2024 16:44
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I really like using a glass file. Specifically these cheap bezosmart glass nail files because the black one cuts fast, and the clear one leaves a smooth finish. I usually cut the parts with a single bladed nipper, then hit it with the clear file and follow up with 3000-5000 grit sanding stick to match the rest of the parts finish. They need to be cleaned occasionally but rubbing a toothpick against the file and rinsing with water does the trick. Also, since they come in an 8-pk I can stash extras all over to help keep my fingernails pretty.
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Apr 24, 2024 00:37
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Tom Guycot posted:... I had a look through the lists of them, saw a few that had an ok look and not all weird… To the Z’gok, Acguy and Gyans reading over my shoulder:  He’s not taking about you…I hear you, 45-years of needing to one-up the last robot has lead to some pretty wild designs. Idk if it’s just Stockholm syndrome after watching most of the UC shows but I really like the ‘this time the samurai-robot is fighting a gladiator/knight/weird swamp monster’ aesthetic. If you want to hue closer to the Real Robot style, maybe check out the Demi variants from Witch from Mercury. ETA: Marx Headroom posted:Can anyone recommend some good single bladed nippers that aren't $60 like Godhands? I would recommend getting the $60 Godhands when they’re on sale for $45 
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May 1, 2024 18:18
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 21:18 |
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Warmachine posted:Could always give the current iteration of Future a shot. Can't remember what it is right now. Quick Shine? Jon Bius did a YouTube on it. Yeah, QuickShine Multi-Surface Floor Finish. And btw, F this stuff for being better than my $15 rattlecan of Vallejo gloss varnish. I brushed it on this SD Gramps before panel lining and it went on smoothly and dried fast.  QuickShine deserves none of the blame for this. It was my first time hand painting, using Tamiya panel liner and the .3mm scribe.
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May 17, 2024 01:52
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