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What Build Fighters kits should I avoid? As in, "not as good as"; I ordered Burning Gundam and Ral's R35 Gouf.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:52
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chumbler posted:I resisted as long as I could, but Build Fighters has claimed final victory over me. I just ordered a few kits and some basic tools, and my journey down the dark path of plastic crack has begun. How many more souls must you claim before you are satisfied, Bandai and Sunrise? Build Fighters has also destroyed my last fortresses. I sent for HGBF Gouf R35, GM Cardigan, Mao Crossbones, Burning gundam and a bunch of tools that I don't have. All I need now is a reliable vallejo paints vendor that ships internationally.
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Nov 10, 2014 05:14
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What is a good place to get those finishing extras like metallic pieces, photo-etched parts and decals that japanese builders can get at a grocery store. Or perhaps HG kits don't need them and I'm exaggerating.
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Nov 12, 2014 05:12
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What is a good place to get those finishing extras like metallic pieces, photo-etched parts and decals that japanese builders can get at a grocery store. Or perhaps HG kits don't need them and I'm exaggerating.
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Nov 12, 2014 17:11
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I just wanted to say thanks for linking that reverse wash tutorial, I'm going through Rozen Zulu and it will really help.
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Nov 13, 2014 04:21
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What is the name of this machine
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Nov 13, 2014 14:05
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Thank you, I've just realized after building Rozen Zulu, that Zakus are marginally cooler than gundams.
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Nov 13, 2014 15:05
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runwiled posted:I tried the UK Pledge Future equivalent and it was indeed terrible. I ended up trying this: I accidentaly bought a bottle of this stuff thinking it was thinner. Will this give me a glossy shine over matt enamels? Can I paint over it?
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Nov 15, 2014 05:24
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I too like the Tallgeese I and Heavyarms. Let's be friends.
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Nov 16, 2014 04:34
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Sorry guys, longpost about paints, feel free to skip ahead if you've seen this a million times. I used to believe Mr. Color products were lacquer based since they dried fast and folks don't thin them with water, but it turns out they are acrylic-based. I don't get it. Does this mean they are acrylic pigment on a lacquer solution? That would make sense to me.   Then there's a line called "aqueous" color which apparently uses a true water-soluble solution. Never seen them in person so I cannot attest to how they dry and cure.  I assume finishing "metelials" are kosher for any kind of paintjob, provided I follow the traditional rules.  Ultimately, my three goals are to master a "perlescent" white finish that the pros seem to rave about all the time. There's a powder apparently or some product but I don't know it. Then there's the issue of mastering candy-coating. I can already do it, just not as good as this  There are those metal parts I was talking about. I need a whole bunch of them.  Weathering doesn't attract me as much; It's commonplace in the 1/35 tamiya tank world of smearing your model with fake snow, mud and rust, albeit I see that in gunpla, the resuts are different because of the "semi-gloss" finish of most paintjobs.  Feel free to school my noob-rear end with your knowledge, all I want is for my models to look absurdly good. tl;dr I'm an idiot learning how to paint again.
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Nov 16, 2014 13:48
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Top Hat Cat posted:Maybe its the MGM pearl powders??? Tell me everything you know about this!
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Nov 17, 2014 02:13
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Still don't exactly know how to use those mgm powdersquote:How to use：
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Nov 17, 2014 04:07
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Fauxtool posted:Lol dur they cant use a very hard to learn language, loving hilarious. You are building japanese models, this cant be the first time you have run into engrish. Thank you, this was really insightful, helpful and mature.
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Nov 17, 2014 12:26
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:
Did you remove the nubs off the flame effect parts? I cut them off and polished them as best as I could but if you look really hard you can still tell where the gate connectors were 
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Nov 20, 2014 14:49
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Swagger Dagger posted:Gonna buy every HGBF. All of them. I've already started  I'm building everything at the moment and I cannot stop myself. I need more supplies.
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Nov 21, 2014 20:49
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The first one will be a straight build with the skills I have now. I'll build the 2nd ones when my skills improve and then compare the results.
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Nov 22, 2014 01:41
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I didn't like the Papilion, I'd much rather build miss Sazabi, it looks more poseable.
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Nov 22, 2014 03:33
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Sanding always takes hours and hours and hours. But you get results such as these     Question: are there photo-etched parts for 1/144 kits, and if so, do they really make much of a difference over the finished work?
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Nov 23, 2014 01:44
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Of the HGUC aqua suits, are the Z'Goks and Hygoggs any good. I like their designs. Also how much is too much for an HGUC Kshatriya.
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Nov 28, 2014 03:15
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I'm replacing my aging Aztec airbrush with an iwata HP-S http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANEST-IWATA-HP-CH-0-3mm-Hi-line-Series-Airbrush-F-S-/181594115236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a47da4ca4 but as such, I might need a better compressor. Any recomendations you folks might have I'm all ears.
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Nov 29, 2014 02:51
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I'm replacing my aging Aztec airbrush with an iwata HP-S http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANEST-IWATA-HP-CH-0-3mm-Hi-line-Series-Airbrush-F-S-/181594115236?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a47da4ca4 but as such, I might need a better compressor. Any recomendations you folks might have I'm all ears.
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Nov 29, 2014 11:32
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BlitzBlast posted:This is a pretty well-known budget compressor. You may need to get an adapter to get your airbrush to fit, and you will need some duck tape to properly seal the valves though. I want a compressor that will outlive me. What are some good choices? Also, is an Iwata Neo a good idea too? http://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405872753&sr=8-1&keywords=Iwata+Neo
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Nov 29, 2014 18:16
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So be it. I've waited my whole goddamn life to have a good compressor and airbrush, now it's the time.
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Nov 29, 2014 22:45
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Blackchamber posted:It's not a 'real' Iwata airbrush, rather it's made by a different company FOR Iwata. I don't know how much the Iwata name matters to you personally. Not the name, just convenience. I know any dingy compressor will do the job, just been saving for something that doesn't require high maintenance regularly. This thing for instance http://www.ebay.com/itm/Iwata-Sprint-Jet-IS-800-Airbrush-Compressor-/390434860741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae7bb2ec5 If the Neo isn't a proper Iwata isn't important. Is it as good as one? If not, I can cough up for a HP-S, it's not that far off. You guys weren't kidding about compressors, some cost an actual car downpayment. Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Also I'm staring at GM Cardigan and Build Burning on my shelf and even though I don't particularly like BFT, I NEED Lightning to finish the team. I finished the Burning and I'm going through a Fenice and the Cardigan at the moment. The Cardigan doesn't seem to have as much poseability as the burning but it's nice that they put all the "powerederereredeededrderder" stuff with the kit. I bought 2 Lightnings but only 1 booster kit just because I intend to paint one like in the show and the other, like a real sniper  I really don't like backpacks on robots. Ka0 fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Nov 30, 2014 |
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Nov 30, 2014 02:59
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Kibner posted:
Then we are insane together because damned if I wouldn't love to own a life-scale Hygogg 
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Dec 4, 2014 15:23
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PoptartsNinja posted:I'm hunting for one. N-Scale should do the trick, but I haven't found one I like that isn't made of pewter. Worse comes to worse, I'll try sculpting one with two-part putty. Would a micro machines red caddie work 
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Dec 5, 2014 05:15
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Everything you need to know about thinning acrylics (it's in spanish though) http://www.network54.com/Forum/657050/message/1351494630/Los+Acr%C3%ADlicos+con+Aer%C3%B3grafo-+Diluci%C3%B3n+y+Mezclas I like that the guy straight up states that he ignored tamiya and mr. color because of their weird combination of solvent/binder/pigment, therefore you're better off thinning them with the official stuff.
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Dec 7, 2014 19:40
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Bimmi posted:I've never been a fan of the 2.0's looks, but it's sheer pleasure to just pick up and hold: fucker is solid. Just to indulge a newbie, to what period of UC kits are we talking and, what is the visual difference.
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Dec 9, 2014 16:08
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Say, if I want my HG Mk.II or Lightning gundams to have more solid shoulder articulation, are there polycap replacement options. I can of course just shove some quick-set or smooth surface putty on the ends to make the connections tighter, but I don't know how much tolerance those polycap joints have.
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Dec 12, 2014 04:54
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BlitzBlast posted:There are third party joints, but if you just want tighter joints any sort of method to increase friction will do. Just make sure you don't glue them into place. Where can I look for these?
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Dec 12, 2014 05:08
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If it has issues maintaining constant pressure you might need to hook it up to a tank https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/iwata-smart-jet-compressor-review
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Dec 13, 2014 15:24
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Is it kosher to thin Gundam Color paints using Mr Thinner. I think it is because they seem to be of the same brand, Creos.
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Dec 14, 2014 13:26
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My markers rub off unless they are in direct contact with bare plastic. Maybe there's a step I'm missing. Are gaianotes lacquers better/worse/the same as mr. color? 
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Dec 15, 2014 17:23
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PoptartsNinja posted:Psyco XLR project Day, uh... I forget? Holy moley that's great. The build burning has wicked articulation on the ankles. I wish all kits had it 
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Dec 16, 2014 13:24
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Look at what you've turned me into. Look
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Dec 16, 2014 18:48
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They're a new company, they specialize in rust/weathering effects -> http://inscale.org/public/?p=1049 The paints handle very similarly to vallejo airs, very little dilution needed. Also they straight up claim their brand thinner is just water with isoprop-alcohol, you can just get a gallon at an auto paints shop. There's 4 sets, I've got the first 2, I'll give out my impressions when the other 2 arrive. ah jeez they're still working on a webpage https://www.k4weathering.cl Ka0 fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Dec 16, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 20:27
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I will die before I find reliable (and updated) color conversion charts online between gunze lacquer, tamiya acrylic and vallejo. It's the most infuriating clusterfuck imaginable.
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Dec 17, 2014 04:09
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chumbler posted:Build Fighters and lucrative employment have done terrible things to me. I just ordered a bunch more HGs (X Maoh, Mega Shiki, R-Gyagya, Reborns, and Gerbera Tetra) for no good reason. And I'm not even drunk. Who would ever have suspected that a show designed to sell cool rear end gunpla to manchildren would succeed in selling cool rear end gunpla to this manchild? A month ago I couldn't tell a genoace from a gelgoog. Now I can SING the goddamn intro to AGE flit arc. Goddamn build fighters.
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Dec 17, 2014 13:44
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I'm scared of trying lacquers after finishing up with acrylics. I wonder if the strong dilutions will wear away the 0 ring seal on the front of the airbrush.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:25
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MJP posted:I've used Alclad lacquers plenty of times, and as long as you clean your airbrush with the appropriate cleaner (I tried normal Tamiya lacquer thinner - do not do this, use airbrush cleaner) you will be just fine. Thanks for the tip. I have vallejo airbrush thinner and I was looking into a good option for my mr. color lacquers. Can you recommend any?
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Dec 18, 2014 04:23
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