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I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
I haven't touched Gunpla in over a decade but I went into Gundam Base Tokyo and came out with SD BB Char's Counter Attack and a couple SD ex-standards

also grabbed a ReGZ dummy decoy so I guess I need a HG Zeta too

they got me good fam

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I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
I was going to ask what people use these days for panel lining and this works out great. I have citadel, army painter and vallejo washes.

iirc some old tank weathering tutorials some people just go ham with them. then use a q-tip with a bit of rubbing alcohol for clean up

I do have some markers too since washes tend to not do well over large flat surfaces and I do want these to look crisp

another shout outs? I already have a godhand and diamond files

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Arc Hammer posted:

Switch to a glass file, imo. I had diamond ones but they're kinda overkill for plastics.

yeah I've been alternating between the diamonds and an exacto. so switching to glass might save me some effort thanks

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Nullkigan posted:

Get a bunch of matte medium and you can thin down other acrylics without breaking the surface tension. Use this to make whatever wash you want, black, grey, brown, blue, gold... Use it with a very light and dusty grey for lining black and dark blue things. The only dedicated product I've seen for dark pieces is AK's enamel wash for black camo, which'll cost 10x as much.

Not sure what the same product is for enamel and lacquers; certainly some form flow improver should work, or maybe thinner. Too much pure thinner might act the same as too much water in and leave you with something that stains but doesn't flow the colour into recesses.


Then, if you've been painting, highlight raised edges. Bit difficult to do if you want to keep the kit fully reposeable, but'll make the kit pop like crazy. No idea why you see this all over miniatures but never on gundams and other mechanicals.





Other important hobby tools are LIGHTS LIGHTS LIGHTS LIGHTS you will be amazed at how much light helps with doing fine details. Some form of magnification is also nice, but one of those magnifiers with lights on it isn't enough LIIIIIGHT. A couple of cheap LED strips you can rearrange at will are incredibly useful, especially if you have a crappy little spray booth.

Regular sand paper and sanding sponges are way more useful than people give them credit for in this thread. 400, 800, 1200 covers 99.999% of use cases. Glass file is for the absolute last bit of nub, they clog too much and can't deal with round surfaces. Metal files are for absolutely burning through plastic. Polishing cloths can unify the texture of glass-filed and raw plastic, but I don't really have any specifics on that as I got a small pile of gunprimer balancers for cheap.

Gardening wire can stand in for brass rods in a pinch and doesn't have Hobby markups. Tungsten PCB drill bits will work with even the cheapest pin vise and are again a fraction of the cost of branded hobby supplies. Useful if you ever need to drill a barrel, do battle damage, or reinforce a snapped peg.

Acrylic primer paint makes any touch ups (such as painting barbatos HG claws yellow) stick much better. And speaking of paint - paint pens cost at least as much as regular paint, but the paint dries in the bristles way too easily and clogs them so they only work once or twice.

For cleaning up washes and panel lining, tightly spun cotton swabs (like tamiya ones) work so much better than regular. They're easier to control and suck up way more residue. To the point where I'd say it's worth the significant extra cost, though I still keep a lot of the cheap ones on hand.

For decals, rhinestone pickers do *not* mix well. Cotton swabs work best for me (especially the press onto swab then press onto spot trick), but I've gotten into the routine of testing with a small spare decal first as some brands just don't like that and need tweezers.

Tweezers are another of the tools where I find the hobby ones are worth it because they'll actually close with something approaching the precision needed for decals vs the 3.99 stamped junk on amazon et al.

jfc this is an epic post. thanks for the write up

I have most of what you talked about already since I do table top miniatures as well. I have those grits of sand paper but I use them for my woodworking stuff. so I may buy some new sponges

can you use acrylic washes on bare plastic or should I prime everything? I was hoping to have these not take several hours each

fake edit:
to better explain, if I can wash them all while still on sprues, clip, sand, then some touch up. they should be pretty quick

I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 22, 2024

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
I'm working my way up to an Alteisen Riese a friend got me like 8 years ago that I keep telling myself I'll put together. I love that mech and want it to look fully sick. I think I have a Z'gok somewhere too...

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
yeah I'll varnish after with some vallejo via airbrush. which should take care of any rubbing off

thank you so much for all the :words: I'm used to working with polystyrene but have no experience with ABS

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
put together the Aile Strike ex-standard and I can see what people mean about the stickers. my brain worms is probably going to make me prime and paint all of these fuckers

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

mllaneza posted:

Thin your paints, helps to hide brush strokes on the finished product.

100%, it's better to do multiple thin coats. takes longer but you get a much smoother finish

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe




ok Strike Aile Gundam is good enough for matte. I've never seen Gundam Seed but I liked the color separation and relatively straight forward design

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
hell yeah more pictures

my kid chose the Banshee Norn next. I have to figure out how I'm going to paint then assemble the thing so I can keep the clear ones plastic parts well clear

it's a lot of dark grey tho

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

I got the Try Burning Gundam just to hold me over

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Antoine Silvere posted:

Here’s a GOOhN for you goons:



First time hand painting something bigger than an artifact Gundam. Airbrushed the base sand yellow/dark brown, rest is by hand and therefore pretty sloppy lol. Still beats what it looked like straight-built:



:whitewater:

looking good, there's always the line of effort to painting ratio. don't get too hung up on perfect lines, washes will fix a lot of the edges. plus you can always go back a fix any minor issues later. it's the beauty of painting. you can always add more

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Antoine Silvere posted:

Thanks! I’m always worried about doing washes cuz I don’t really know what I’m doing; do I just slap it on all over or just in the recesses? I’ve panel lined before, is it any different from that? Lol

you can go over highly detailed areas quickly but I try not to slather it too much anyway. I'll then use a clean brush to pull back any pooling I notice. it's always easier to do lighter coats and multiples then a thicker one that dries unevenly. you end up having to fix it anyway so might as well save yourself time upfront

painting is a skill you have to learn by doing and seeing. other people's highly advanced work is great for inspiration but can be demoralizing if you compare your own works to that stringent of a standard

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Antoine Silvere posted:

Thanks for the tips model pals, I might give it a shot on the GOOhN since it was mostly just a fun lil side project. One last question: how much should I worry about color of the wash? Is a “dark” wash (I.e. black/dark grey) good for most recess washes, or should I try to color-match the kit at all?

generally speaking you use black for cool tones and brown for warm. you can get away with black on warm tones but it's a starker contrast

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Waffleman_ posted:

Doing some painting on the Banshee crown, will probably go over any missed spots once I'm building and have them out of the runner



in retrospect it would have been much smarter of me to prime on the sprue for my Banshee Norn

I do have it primed light grey now and it's making me wonder if I want to change the colorway

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:

Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since.

Here’s a gallery with most of what I’ve built this year:



Mostly 0078 HGs, cleaned up and panel lined with the thin tip pens.

I just finished a Gundam MK2, and did some quick detailing with black and silver, and a flat topcoat. It was also my first time gluing parts (the backpack) and I’m happy that it didn’t turn into a blob of polystyrene fingerprints like all the P-51s I attempted as a kid.

Please roast away (seriously, looking for feedback):




Basically, I’m fully hooked at this point. I’m building a HG Gyan Revive now, then I’ll probably start a Calibarn and then my first MG, Quatto’s Rick Dias.

I’m kind of at a spot right now. I don’t know if I should get a set of pens and try shading, or just buy the bullet and buy an airbrush so I can ‘fix’ the weird mustard plastic of the Gyan’s accessories and spray top coat, and start panel lining and doing water slide decals over gloss.

Yeah, I’m going to buy the markers and an airbrush.

that's the spirit. I had a choice between dark blue and blue black for the Banshee repaint. por no los dos indeed

as an aside doing panel lining over gloss was insanely quick. my Strike Aile was my first attempt and I like the results

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:

Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track.

But yeah, ‘just do it’ is good advice. Thank you.

I’ve got my first set of reading glasses and a new lamp waiting on the porch for me. I’m going to mix up a little mid-gray and try panel lining the dark blue tonight because like you said, I can always wipe it back off.

lol yeah if people aren't actively hating on your poo poo here that means you did a dece job

as for more nuanced shadings for colors. with darker it depends on the color of the undertone. navy could have a neutral grey of most shades work well but a black would work too. when you're taking pictures there'll be bright lights on the figure anyway to help differentiate. in-person your eyes pick up more of the nuances of coloration

a lot of painting also has to do with consideration of how the model will be viewed later on. bright led's in a glass case? pictures via a photo booth? desk with overhead fluorescents? all those differences in lighting will affect how it's viewed as a whole

also the honest truth is that you're likely the one to see it most. so as long as you're cool with it who loving cares

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

monsterzero posted:

This is one of the most interesting parts of painting to me. It’s not about accuracy, it’s about verisimilitude and often the hacky approximations look way better than detail in miniature. So much to play around with.

Good point. Plan B is shouting, “Those aren’t stress marks, it’s wabi-sabi you ignorant barbarian!”

the best advice, for painting, I ever got is paint what you see. not what you think is supposed to go there

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe



painting this thing in pieces has been a nightmare but the results are looking mighty fine

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Arc Hammer posted:

I like toying around with the metal paint markers ive got but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the metal a bit less shiny and more dulled/matte.

Maybe I should get some citadel paints and hand brush the metal parts, their metallics look amazing.

metal paints / markers are shiny by nature of their pigment. you'd have to use a matte varnish and even then there'll still be shininess to them just less so

it's why I've been avoiding metallic paints for my repaints and using alternative visual looks

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Arc Hammer posted:

I've used citadel paints extensively when I was into 40K and I got pretty good at using their darker boltgun metal plus washes to really dull them out so they're metallic but not "mirror shine" metallic.

One method I've been practicing with for the paint pens is to paint onto the plastic and then wipe off most of the paint before it dries. It gives a nice finish after a few tries where the colour of the plastic underneath is still visible but with a very fine layer of the pigments over top that still catches the light.

oh I thought you were trying to maintain the color but just lessen the shine. yeah washes of darker colors will cut down the refractions

as for shininess for paint that doesn't have it naturally. you could use glitter in acrylic medium, then thin it down a bit into a wash / glaze. that way you can mix some up ahead of time and just paint it on wherever you want. basically the same thing as glitter nail polish

actually if you've already got citadels metallics then you could make a glaze from those

I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 15, 2024

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Schwarzwald posted:

I'm plan to get back into modeling, and I'm hoping to get into painting. Is there a good list of what brands to buy from / how colors will look after painted on / what colors will look good together?

I'm certain I've seen this information before, but now that I actually need it I don't have any clue where to find it.

Also, because I'm smart and I respect my limitations I'm planning on using a glossy black. What kind of hell am I getting into?

there are a several major brands, usually people vary between miniatures / model paint lines. which there's Vallejo, Tamiya, Pro Acryl, Citadel, Army Painter and Reaper. there are other brands but those are the ones I'm most familiar with

as for how they'll look painted there should be some YouTube's with each paint line showing how they'll look over primed models. pick whichever color range you like

as for what goes well together that's a very large question but the cheat code is use sports teams colorways. let some other nerd do all the color theory work for you. there are color picker apps that also let you pick a primary color and it'll give you variations on schemes from there



personally I've switched to using Pro Acryl's in the past month and I love them. great coverage and I like their screw cap bottles

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Schwarzwald posted:

Hand paint, and basically no :lol:

Designing a color scheme from scratch isn't really what I'm worried about. I've ordered the Moderoid Viola Katze, and I from what I've seen a lot of its parts of unpainted and its base black is kind of mid. I'm mostly aiming to have it more closely resemble how it looked in show.

not familiar with it personally but looking at references online it's basically that dark neutral gray, dark warm grey, magenta and fluorescent green

pretty much all the major lines will tell you they got ya covered, but does that model not come with a paint guide on what they used?

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Schwarzwald posted:

It probably does, but I'm going to want to give it a few tweaks. At the least, a glossier black. Maybe play with a metallic color on some highlights just to see how they work.

Kick rear end, thanks.

oh for sure, I just meant they'd let you know which paint line they used :cheers:

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe




Banshee Norn is nearly ready for matte

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Big Bizness posted:

So I indeed tried out the Mr Top Coats on these and it did not go well. The gloss spray was decent, but the matte spray absolutely destroyed the finish. Makes sense, enamel eating through the alcohol base I suppose.

I then started wondering about my Tamiya panel liners and the lighter fluid I normally use to clean it up and how they would react directly with a gundam marker coat. For whatever reason, it works! I experimented using a spare piece from a kit I had on hand. Neither the liner nor the lighter fluid cleanup messed up the base coat. I think this is a viable combination as long as you're not going crazy with either and doing a gentle cleanup with the Q-tip, which you should be doing anyways. Here's a picture:


I think finishing the job with the matte or gloss gundam markers (yes they exist) would go well based on some vids I saw on YT. Amusing that they exist at all, maybe they just assume people are going to use them with their airbrush system instead of trying to apply a topcoat with a marker...

traditionally you apply varnishes by hand. so it's entirely viable to not use an airbrush, just slower

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Null of Undefined posted:

Hey friends, I've been absent from this thread for ages because I haven't finished a gunpla kit in almost 4 years. I finally finished one to my liking today. If I can post a little too long about it I'd appreciate it.

I started this kit in 2020 just before the pandemic. I finished the torso head and arms, but ran out of like 2 colors that I needed to finish the legs. Then the pandemic hit and everywhere was out of stock of the paint I needed. The days became weeks became months became years and I had functionally quit the hobby, despite how much real-estate it takes up in my garage.

I hosted my first build day in years last week and had a few friends over to snap together some kits and watch anime vhs tapes (something I used to do every week in the before times). That was all it took for me to get the itch again. I bought the paint I needed and got to work. This morning I put the final layer of clear coat on and called it complete.

I always have a really hard time finishing kits even when supplies aren't in stock because every step I take towards completion I get more and more anxious that I'm going to gently caress it up. I can snap kits together without a care in the world but the more time I invest, the more scared I get that I'm going to ruin it beyond repair (it's happened before, I think the last kit I posted about here was an MG Guncannon that was going great until it wasn't).

May I present for the thread, my MG RX-78-2 Ver. 3.0. The kit I left half-done for almost 4 years.













Bonus shot of the photo setup lol



As usual when I look at it almost all I can see are things I'd like another shot at. But that's just gonna have to wait for the next kit I suppose. But when I look at my kit that's posted in the OP of this thread, which at one point was the best kit I had ever made, I can definitely see that I've improved. Just never seems that way when I'm in the thick of it.

C&C kind of welcome but tbh if someone could just say "looks cool" that's really what I need, because I think already know where most of the flaws are.

/sadsackpost

I could go all art critique but honestly this is great work. I think the best part of the story is the hanging out with friends and having fun

as for the, "oh no I'll eventually gently caress this up feeling". here's the real artist secret: everyone fucks up all the time. what matters is that you accept it as a part of your process and you find a way to either fix it or come to terms with it. sometimes a mistake turns into a fun aside in your artist statement

so my point is no stress my goon. we're all learning

I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe
Unicorn Banshee Norn is complete



party mode:



my only real complaint is that the matte varnish has made the transparent pieces dimmer. I should use some cotton swabs and a solvent to clean it but :effort:

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I R SMART LIKE ROCK
Mar 10, 2003

I just want a hug.

Fun Shoe

Willo567 posted:

I haven't really painted much - what size brush would I need?

a #2 round would be fine but gundam markers would work too

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