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I haven't touched Gunpla in over a decade but I went into Gundam Base Tokyo and came out with SD BB Char's Counter Attack and a couple SD ex-standards also grabbed a ReGZ dummy decoy so I guess I need a HG Zeta too they got me good fam
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2024 09:39 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 21:18 |
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I was going to ask what people use these days for panel lining and this works out great. I have citadel, army painter and vallejo washes. iirc some old tank weathering tutorials some people just go ham with them. then use a q-tip with a bit of rubbing alcohol for clean up I do have some markers too since washes tend to not do well over large flat surfaces and I do want these to look crisp another shout outs? I already have a godhand and diamond files
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# ¿ Mar 21, 2024 22:20 |
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Arc Hammer posted:Switch to a glass file, imo. I had diamond ones but they're kinda overkill for plastics. yeah I've been alternating between the diamonds and an exacto. so switching to glass might save me some effort thanks
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# ¿ Mar 21, 2024 22:53 |
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Nullkigan posted:Get a bunch of matte medium and you can thin down other acrylics without breaking the surface tension. Use this to make whatever wash you want, black, grey, brown, blue, gold... Use it with a very light and dusty grey for lining black and dark blue things. The only dedicated product I've seen for dark pieces is AK's enamel wash for black camo, which'll cost 10x as much. jfc this is an epic post. thanks for the write up I have most of what you talked about already since I do table top miniatures as well. I have those grits of sand paper but I use them for my woodworking stuff. so I may buy some new sponges can you use acrylic washes on bare plastic or should I prime everything? I was hoping to have these not take several hours each fake edit: to better explain, if I can wash them all while still on sprues, clip, sand, then some touch up. they should be pretty quick I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 22, 2024 |
# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 00:10 |
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I'm working my way up to an Alteisen Riese a friend got me like 8 years ago that I keep telling myself I'll put together. I love that mech and want it to look fully sick. I think I have a Z'gok somewhere too...
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 00:19 |
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yeah I'll varnish after with some vallejo via airbrush. which should take care of any rubbing off thank you so much for all the I'm used to working with polystyrene but have no experience with ABS
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 00:42 |
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put together the Aile Strike ex-standard and I can see what people mean about the stickers. my brain worms is probably going to make me prime and paint all of these fuckers
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 06:40 |
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mllaneza posted:Thin your paints, helps to hide brush strokes on the finished product. 100%, it's better to do multiple thin coats. takes longer but you get a much smoother finish
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 06:41 |
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ok Strike Aile Gundam is good enough for matte. I've never seen Gundam Seed but I liked the color separation and relatively straight forward design
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2024 23:06 |
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hell yeah more pictures my kid chose the Banshee Norn next. I have to figure out how I'm going to paint then assemble the thing so I can keep the clear ones plastic parts well clear it's a lot of dark grey tho
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2024 17:55 |
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I got the Try Burning Gundam just to hold me over
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# ¿ Apr 7, 2024 21:13 |
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Antoine Silvere posted:Here’s a GOOhN for you goons: looking good, there's always the line of effort to painting ratio. don't get too hung up on perfect lines, washes will fix a lot of the edges. plus you can always go back a fix any minor issues later. it's the beauty of painting. you can always add more
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 20:53 |
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks! I’m always worried about doing washes cuz I don’t really know what I’m doing; do I just slap it on all over or just in the recesses? I’ve panel lined before, is it any different from that? Lol you can go over highly detailed areas quickly but I try not to slather it too much anyway. I'll then use a clean brush to pull back any pooling I notice. it's always easier to do lighter coats and multiples then a thicker one that dries unevenly. you end up having to fix it anyway so might as well save yourself time upfront painting is a skill you have to learn by doing and seeing. other people's highly advanced work is great for inspiration but can be demoralizing if you compare your own works to that stringent of a standard
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 21:39 |
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Antoine Silvere posted:Thanks for the tips model pals, I might give it a shot on the GOOhN since it was mostly just a fun lil side project. One last question: how much should I worry about color of the wash? Is a “dark” wash (I.e. black/dark grey) good for most recess washes, or should I try to color-match the kit at all? generally speaking you use black for cool tones and brown for warm. you can get away with black on warm tones but it's a starker contrast
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 01:49 |
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Waffleman_ posted:Doing some painting on the Banshee crown, will probably go over any missed spots once I'm building and have them out of the runner in retrospect it would have been much smarter of me to prime on the sprue for my Banshee Norn I do have it primed light grey now and it's making me wonder if I want to change the colorway
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 16:56 |
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monsterzero posted:Hey gunpla goons. Last April my weeb dream came true and I went to Japan. Between things, we swung by Odaiba and saw the giant Unicorn and the Gundam Base. I got bit by a rabid EG RX-78-2, and have been hoarding kits ever since. that's the spirit. I had a choice between dark blue and blue black for the Banshee repaint. por no los dos indeed as an aside doing panel lining over gloss was insanely quick. my Strike Aile was my first attempt and I like the results
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2024 19:02 |
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monsterzero posted:Lmao, eighty percent the reason I post on the something awful dot com forums is as a check that my ideas aren’t bad and my poo poo weak. Top tier haters here, and I trust that if I’m not read for filth I’m on the right track. lol yeah if people aren't actively hating on your poo poo here that means you did a dece job as for more nuanced shadings for colors. with darker it depends on the color of the undertone. navy could have a neutral grey of most shades work well but a black would work too. when you're taking pictures there'll be bright lights on the figure anyway to help differentiate. in-person your eyes pick up more of the nuances of coloration a lot of painting also has to do with consideration of how the model will be viewed later on. bright led's in a glass case? pictures via a photo booth? desk with overhead fluorescents? all those differences in lighting will affect how it's viewed as a whole also the honest truth is that you're likely the one to see it most. so as long as you're cool with it who loving cares
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2024 23:42 |
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monsterzero posted:This is one of the most interesting parts of painting to me. It’s not about accuracy, it’s about verisimilitude and often the hacky approximations look way better than detail in miniature. So much to play around with. the best advice, for painting, I ever got is paint what you see. not what you think is supposed to go there
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# ¿ Apr 12, 2024 00:30 |
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painting this thing in pieces has been a nightmare but the results are looking mighty fine
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# ¿ Apr 13, 2024 02:40 |
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Arc Hammer posted:I like toying around with the metal paint markers ive got but I'm wondering if there's a way to make the metal a bit less shiny and more dulled/matte. metal paints / markers are shiny by nature of their pigment. you'd have to use a matte varnish and even then there'll still be shininess to them just less so it's why I've been avoiding metallic paints for my repaints and using alternative visual looks
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 16:38 |
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Arc Hammer posted:I've used citadel paints extensively when I was into 40K and I got pretty good at using their darker boltgun metal plus washes to really dull them out so they're metallic but not "mirror shine" metallic. oh I thought you were trying to maintain the color but just lessen the shine. yeah washes of darker colors will cut down the refractions as for shininess for paint that doesn't have it naturally. you could use glitter in acrylic medium, then thin it down a bit into a wash / glaze. that way you can mix some up ahead of time and just paint it on wherever you want. basically the same thing as glitter nail polish actually if you've already got citadels metallics then you could make a glaze from those I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Apr 15, 2024 |
# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 17:25 |
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Schwarzwald posted:I'm plan to get back into modeling, and I'm hoping to get into painting. Is there a good list of what brands to buy from / how colors will look after painted on / what colors will look good together? there are a several major brands, usually people vary between miniatures / model paint lines. which there's Vallejo, Tamiya, Pro Acryl, Citadel, Army Painter and Reaper. there are other brands but those are the ones I'm most familiar with as for how they'll look painted there should be some YouTube's with each paint line showing how they'll look over primed models. pick whichever color range you like as for what goes well together that's a very large question but the cheat code is use sports teams colorways. let some other nerd do all the color theory work for you. there are color picker apps that also let you pick a primary color and it'll give you variations on schemes from there personally I've switched to using Pro Acryl's in the past month and I love them. great coverage and I like their screw cap bottles
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 23:05 |
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Schwarzwald posted:Hand paint, and basically no not familiar with it personally but looking at references online it's basically that dark neutral gray, dark warm grey, magenta and fluorescent green pretty much all the major lines will tell you they got ya covered, but does that model not come with a paint guide on what they used?
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2024 00:17 |
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Schwarzwald posted:It probably does, but I'm going to want to give it a few tweaks. At the least, a glossier black. Maybe play with a metallic color on some highlights just to see how they work. oh for sure, I just meant they'd let you know which paint line they used
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2024 23:09 |
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Banshee Norn is nearly ready for matte
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 00:23 |
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Big Bizness posted:So I indeed tried out the Mr Top Coats on these and it did not go well. The gloss spray was decent, but the matte spray absolutely destroyed the finish. Makes sense, enamel eating through the alcohol base I suppose. traditionally you apply varnishes by hand. so it's entirely viable to not use an airbrush, just slower
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 16:35 |
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Null of Undefined posted:Hey friends, I've been absent from this thread for ages because I haven't finished a gunpla kit in almost 4 years. I finally finished one to my liking today. If I can post a little too long about it I'd appreciate it. I could go all art critique but honestly this is great work. I think the best part of the story is the hanging out with friends and having fun as for the, "oh no I'll eventually gently caress this up feeling". here's the real artist secret: everyone fucks up all the time. what matters is that you accept it as a part of your process and you find a way to either fix it or come to terms with it. sometimes a mistake turns into a fun aside in your artist statement so my point is no stress my goon. we're all learning
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# ¿ May 4, 2024 23:24 |
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Unicorn Banshee Norn is complete party mode: my only real complaint is that the matte varnish has made the transparent pieces dimmer. I should use some cotton swabs and a solvent to clean it but
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# ¿ May 7, 2024 23:29 |
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# ¿ May 9, 2024 21:18 |
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Willo567 posted:I haven't really painted much - what size brush would I need? a #2 round would be fine but gundam markers would work too
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# ¿ May 8, 2024 03:11 |