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Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Speaking of the PG Strike anyone want a pre-built one? I did it for Christmas like a decade ago when I was 100% on for gunpla and I just don't have the room to display it or the time to paint it, and it's a shame for such a nice kit to be gathering dust in a box behind a wardrobe. I just checked it and it's still got the accessories (decals, lil' pilot-guy, sword, gun, shield), it's just dusty as poo poo.

PM me and I'll throw it over for cost of shipping (it's fine if you want me to ship to the US but it might be a bunch).

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Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Sure no problem, sent you a mail.

It's still a great looking kit, maybe still one of my favourite protagonist suits or even Gundams in general in spite of me severely cooling on the series it came from. The only other PG I ever got was the Unit 01 with the crazy rubber insides (gently caress that thing), but the Strike is still baller as hell.

edit; caught myself on dalong looking at kits, nope, not getting back into this, don't have the money, not gonna do it

Pierson fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Oct 25, 2017

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Neurolimal already beat you to it, sorry man.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Ooh I get it, sorry. I'm in the north of England but I've not bought anything in a looooong time. At one point I had a whole bunch of MGs but I never really advanced any higher than basic panel lining and decals.

What's a good site for checking out the real high-end paint-jobs and dioramas such? They get posted a lot in Trad Games and they always look incredible.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Is there a decent Woundwort model or just the third party one? I love that suit even if it is a part of the 'endless prototype' parts of the UC I dislike.

Pierson fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Nov 2, 2017

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
What's the Gundam equivalent of the Osrey or F-35? Just a giant boondoggle mobile suit that got shoved through a corrupt acquisitions process that cost billions of space-dollars and kills it's pilots.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Yeah the Leo fits. I should probably have asked in the actual Gundam thread but Gundams made by a Nixon government was too funny an idea to pass up. :v:

Imagining this scene but with robits:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aXQ2lO3ieBA

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
It just oozes futurism compared to most other 'advanced' Gundam suits which are still just the basic Gundam shape with some extras bolted on or edges rounded down.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Thinking about getting back into gunpla in a small way to keep my hands busy but I don't really have the space for full-on painting/spraying. Do RGs (and newer MG/HG I guess) sets still benefit from some basic panel lining or are they okay out-of-the-box, so to speak?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
If I'm after older RGs am I just gonna have to accept huge markups or months of waiting? Ticking 'in stock' on HLJ is very depressing indeed.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Finally managed to secure a RG Sazabi for under £100. My plan is to get some cheap HGs to practise my panelling, decals and topcoats on before I so much as crack the box. Are there any decent HG suits that meet those requirements? The Leo is like £15 so probably one of those. (Sell me on your favourite HGs).

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
On the topic of markers do you have any advice for the sumi-ire panelling ones? My understanding is I want to dab every so often, let capillary action handle the rest, and then clean off the extra with rubbing alcohol-soaked cotton. Do I have that about right?

My own haul for xmas has been a HG Barbatos Lupus Rex, HG Sinanju Stein and RG Sinanju, as well as a bunch of craft stuff. Got a pre-order in for a HG Turn-A, RG Mk.II and MG Nu Ver. Ka. Just having the Nu in the house is gonna encourage me to get better, it looks like an incredible kit.

Pierson fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 30, 2022

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Sucks so bad to be told by a store "yeah we got a shipment of gunpla in" and it's like half a shelf at the back of the store, having to walk past an entire wall of Funkos to get there.

I actually want to ask about old kits and availability: Is the scarcity just due to scalpers and popularity or are some kits just not made anymore or made in limited numbers? If I see something like the Qubeley Amberil for a hundred bucks is that price stable or is it only going to increase as time goes by?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
If I'm doing a basic set (HG Barbatos L.R.) with no decals or extra painting should I bother with a gloss coat first or just do build > lining > matte topcoat?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
It's an actual Gundam Marker.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Yeah same question from me, I love the FSS suits but they look old and for some reason it's hard to find any actual posed images of them. Even if the kits are okay do they even have much articulation?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Anyone have any opinions on the MG Full-Armor Unicorn? I really want a Unicorn set and from research it seems that the FA version is the best between quality (better than the original versions and absolute boatload of stuff to do) and price (MGEX is £250, absolutely not).

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
I'm not really a big 'full armor' guy so that actually makes things a lot easier, thanks.

edit; Pulled the trigger on an MG Unicorn (OVA ver.) and some tamiya panel liner and enamel thinner. I have a marker pen but it doesn't feel great and I'm not really happy with how it looks so might as well get the real thing.

edit2: If I want to start putting waterslides on rather than setting for the sticker sheets is it recommended to get both softener and setter? I'm seeing conflicting info about what they're both used for.

Pierson fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 5, 2023

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
First gunpla after like twenty years and it feels really good to be building again.



Just the basic panel line and some topcoat to start with. Wasn't a big fan of how the gundam panel marker feels or looks so I've grabbed some tamiya accent liner and cleaner for future sets. Between the gorilla arms, prehensile whip-spike and massive unbalancing mace the Barbatos L.R. is a weird as hell suit, it definitely feels like it needs a good action base to pose well.

The biggest annoyance I have is nub marks on the black frame, it felt like even sanding down, polishing a bit then a light wash still left identifiable nub areas behind. Is it a problem with my sanding (the sticks I got are admittedly cheap as hell and I kind of regret the £10 I spent on a pack of twenty of various grades) or is it something you need to paint over to truly get rid of?

I have an RG Sazabi I don't want to start until I have more confidence and I for-sure don't want any crap on it. I'm thinking about painting but I really don't have the room for an airbrush setup, does anyone paint using regular brushes/cans?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Yeah exactly. It isn't so bad on this one but I have an MG Strike on the way and that thing has a ton of exposed frame. I'll pick up a marker for that I guess.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

RillAkBea posted:

Luckily most modern MGs are quite considerate on their nub placement so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
So I've heard! I have an MG Strike Aile and a Unicorn on the way, super looking forward to it.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Did anyone start painting kits via brush then switch up to airbrushes? Was it a big difference in ease of use and quality? There's a lot of stuff I wanna try but a lot of tutorials I see say "yeah you can do X via brushing but if you have an airbrush it's easier/better/more consistent".

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
How much physical space does an airbrush setup actually take up? It's surprisingly hard to get pics of a compressor in-situ and I can't tell how big they are. Also it seems a box is a necessity to avoid dying of fumes and portable ones look to be about 60cm x 60cm which would take up half my desk.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

Kibner posted:

Can you put a small desk in front of a window? That's how much space it will take up.
Yeah absolutely I can work it.

Is airbrushing one of those things where you buy cheaper stuff to learn and then trade up gradually or is it better to buy a real nice set first thing?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Aight guess I have no choice but to accept my fate and just become a full-time gunpla lunatic.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
I have wasted endless time on dalong.net looking at box contents, frames, reviews and builds, that person deserves a medal or something.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
7/10 too many v-fins not enough mono-eyes.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
That's really useful advice about brushes and stuff, thanks Grassy. I've got a shopping list together I'll be executing probably next month to get started, really looking forward to it. I'll look into a DIY spray box but tbh depending on how awkward it gets I may just pay a premium for a portable one from amazon.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

biceps crimes posted:

I bought the 1/144 RX-78-2 Gundam, Bandai Spirits Entry Grade, assembled it and enjoyed it. I didn't do much aside from snip and sand. What's the next thing I can introduce to improve my next model? Would like some steps to go from crawl, walk and run with building these.
Panel lines and topcoat for sure! It was the first thing and I bought and it's amazing the difference it makes to add detail and make the model look less plastic-y. Tamiya panel liner and thinner to help erase mistakes is like £10 and some topcoats you'll want to protect the model are another £10, totally worth it.

HG Sinanju:

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

RillAkBea posted:

It depends on what you're spraying really. If you're doing true water-based acrylics, a rinky dink DIY job is probably enough, but if you're doing stuff like lacquers you'll want a really sturdy extractor setup if you value your health.
I really really want to start with just some inner frame painting for a metallic look but 100% I'm gonna be doing chrome/candy finishes when I have the experience so I'm going for the latter for sure.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Are resin kits an intermediate/advanced-style thing? I've seen the insane Sazabi conversion kit and other stuff. Do they just clip on/replace other parts in the basic kit?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Sorry bit of a mis-understanding there, I don't mean full resin kits I just mean the conversion kits that to my understanding are additional parts for standard plastic models. Stuff like this for the Gouf Custom: https://www.museigenhobby.com/product/sh-studio-1-60-gouf-custom-conversion-kit/. Are they just additional/replacement parts and so just need a bit more care than normal plastic parts they replace/attach to, or is it more complex than that?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
There's so much great P-Bandai stuff but seeing that category be like £100 for an MG or gently caress yourself is kind of annoying!

Pierson fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jan 11, 2023

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Does anyone airbrush in a small-ish room? If so what do you do for ventilation? My understanding is lacquer like Mr Color requires a lot of ventilation and space so that's probably entirely out. Would a relatively small unit like https://tinyurl.com/yyf7658w or DIY equivalent be suitable for it or should I consider using acrylics? The main thing attracting me to Mr Color is that they just straight-up have a line of "yeah this is all for Gunpla and we labelled everything for you to keep it simple".

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

Marx Headroom posted:

Not that it would require much different ventilation, but acrylics are really just as simple to work with. There's a Vallejo Mecha Color line that's similarly geared towards palm sized robots.

I prefer lacquer for some things (priming, Mr Crystal Color, Mr Metal Color) but use acrylics for basically everything else. Acrylics make it easier to do more involved chipping effects too since they're water soluble.
Oh hey that does make things a poo poo-load simpler, thanks! If I'm going to be mixing paint types like you mentioned there (so like a lacquer primer, then regular acrylic for everything else) I would want to have a layer of topcoat between them to protect them from each other right?

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

SnakesRevenge posted:


I now have a booth my wife bought for me last Father's Day with it's own ventilation. Not sure the exact model but it's similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOHOME-Portable-Airbrush-Lights-Filter/dp/B07X9M35VJ/

Thanks! That's more or less exactly the ones I was looking at yeah, it seems like that's a fairly standard template a half-dozen companies copy from and stick up on Amazon. I've noticed that happens with the AS-186 compressor a lot of gunpla/model sites recommend too.

I'm very quickly learning you get the quality you pay for with this hobby 'cause geez there's a lot of crap off-brand equipment you can get and it's absolute dogshit.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

Mindblast posted:

Currently looking into the whole tamiya panel line / enamel process. I wish I could airbrush the protective layer(top coat?) on but I have one room to do it all in and don't want to expose my cat to fumes. I just wanna make the parts ever so slightly less pristine, if that makes sense.
You sound like you're in the same situation as me and I keep a window open as I'm spraying, leave the window open once I'm done, and if I did 2-3 coats I just leave the room for 10-15 mins and let a draught blow out the last fumes. There's a small noticeable smell for a few mins but no headaches or other ill-effects.

Edit; oh you mentioned a cat, my bad. Is the cat amenable to treats to bribe it out of the room?

Pierson fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 12, 2023

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice

Mindblast posted:

Haha im sure I could lure him out the room but that means I have to trap him inside a small room for a bit.

But then again if its just a short time it would be an option. Hmm.

Do you just need a top coat if you're working with panel liners and enamel thinner?
My understanding is that for tamiya panel liner and thinner/cleaner you want to use a gloss topcoat first to protect the plastic and give the liner a better surface, get your lining and stickers/decals done, and then a matte topcoat after to seal it all in. I've using a Gundam ultra-fine marker for my Barbatos and my Alteisen but can't really say I'm a fan. I've got some panel liner and cleaner on the way myself for kits I care more about.

Yeah stickers are a real bitch, especially the ones that try to fold up/down over edges and flats, they always look cheap as hell. Considering a pack of Gundam markers myself.

Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
Managed to secure an HG Aerial for retail price so feeling pretty good right now. If you're in the UK as of 22:32 GMT there are still a bunch of WFM suits available at https://www.gundammad.co.uk/ if you're searching.

edit; Gone. :(

Also hey I blinked and suddenly my backlog is six suits deep. Who's responsible for this!??!!?

Pierson fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jan 18, 2023

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Pierson
Oct 31, 2004



College Slice
I imagine everyone goes through this when they seriously get into this hobby but man the existence of P-Bandai is kind of annoying and really sets off my FOMO. Have had to remind myself "no you don't need that HG Hazel you want to focus on MG kits and you already have a seven-suit backlog already, somehow".

I imagine you get used to it or go broke.

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