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TraderStav posted:I swore I read somewhere that the southwest companion pass would no longer be available come this March. I can't find any mention of that but that you cannot transfer from hotel partners to meet the 110k balance at that time. Far as I know, just the transfer partner stuff is stopping counting. Chase's rule is to deny you if you've had 5 or more new accounts in the last 24 months. You can recon it if enough of those were AUs or store cards that you'd otherwise be under 5.
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Feb 8, 2017 03:43
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Neon Belly posted:Getting ready to wind down and close my Sally Mae Barclayscard, replacing it with Amex Blue Cash Preferred. If I close my Barclayscard with a negative balance after dumping the rest of my cashback, do they mail that negative balance to me? Instead of closing it, have you considered having Barclaycard change the Sally Mae to another product to keep your account open instead? You'd have more available credit and another account aging on your credit report; both tend to increase credit scores. I've also read some posts that with some of their other products Barclaycard even lets you keep your reward balance with the new product, but I'd recommend inquiring to make sure. Otherwise, if you have a negative balance on your card you can generally just request a check, or if you do go ahead and close out your account they'll likely mail you one anyway (but I'd still call in to find out what the expected timeframe would be to get it).
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Feb 15, 2017 18:32
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Chaotic Flame posted:I'm fairly new to trying to maximize on my credit cards since before I just had a student card from Wells Fargo and then I got a card with a great balance transfer perk to pay that off. Now I have no credit card balances and I was looking to get a good travel/rewards card. If you live close to a branch, I'd say go in there and see if you can have a banker (the sit-down kind, not the tellers) call in on your behalf and get your bonus switched to the in-branch one. Bit of a hassle, but worth it if you can get that extra bonus without having to take an extra hard pull on your credit. They might also be able to help sort out that verification issue - if it's just identity/address verification, I'd recommend bringing your ID and a utility bill that shows your name and current address. They can attach that stuff to your account instead of the huge ordeal of having to email/fax/etc it in and waiting for someone to tie it to your account. astral fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Mar 5, 2017 |
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Mar 5, 2017 18:00
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THF13 posted:Have you checked your credit report directly? I didn't think credit card companies still used the primary account holder's signup date for authorized users. Depends on the card issuer.
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Mar 8, 2017 18:45
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monster on a stick posted:CSR/CSP question: I signed up with both and now have the bonuses. It seems like the best strategy for maximizing my rewards/minimizing cost is to just stop using the CSP and transfer all the points to the CSR card which has better redemption if I use the portal and more points on travel/restaurant purchases. If I decide to dump these cards for whatever reason like not getting my money's worth from the $300 travel credit on the CSR, I should ask Chase to convert one to a Chase Freedom Unlimited card. That sound about right? If you've had the CSP for under a year, and you don't expect to get any referral bonuses on it to offset its annual fee, you can product change that CSP to the no-annual-fee Sapphire. Then, a day later, you can product change that Sapphire to a Freedom Unlimited. Definitely keep the CSR for the year, get the two years' worth of $300 travel credits, then if you don't want to keep it as a CSR, product change it down to a CSP or Freedom or whatever.
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Mar 8, 2017 23:07
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monster on a stick posted:Thanks. Maybe dumb question but why not just change CSP directly to Freedom Unlimited, does Chase want it converted to a regular Sapphire first? If it's under a year they don't let you go directly between CSP and the other no-AF cards. It's weird.
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Mar 8, 2017 23:23
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Power of Pecota posted:I got a Chase Unlimited Freedom card at the end of February and hit the $500 mark on it a few days ago for the $150 bonus - is that just going to show up as points or something with my next end of month statement, or do I have to do anything to redeem it? It'll show up on the next statement after enough transactions post, unless it's within something like 7-10 days of the next statement cut. In that case, it might not show up until the statement after that. astral fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Mar 23, 2017 |
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Mar 23, 2017 05:50
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Rated PG-34 posted:If it really bothers you, you could probably just call in a lost card. If you report it as lost they're likely to give you a new number and all the hassles that comes along with. Report it as damaged instead (i.e. magstripe doesn't work, chip doesn't work, etc) and they'll just send you a replacement card with the same number.
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Mar 26, 2017 18:28
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FateFree posted:My wife has a Bank of America credit card with about 13k on it and ~10% interest. We have a plan to pay it off within the next 6 months or so, but would it make sense to transfer it to a 0% card to prevent these interest fees? I saw the chase Slate card has 0% transfer and 0% APR for 15 months which would be perfect. But it also said only for first 60 days - does that mean theres a transfer fee from then on? Or if I make the transfer of all 13 in one shot will that be 0% forever? You have to make the transfer in the first 60 days of opening the Slate for it to be fee-free and have the promotional rate. Once it's transferred, it's only 0% for 15 months, so you really want to pay it off by then.
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Apr 2, 2017 22:38
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ManDingo posted:Housekeeping item: I ended up being approved for the Chase Ink today. Woohoo. The card from 1/15 wouldn't count, and either the Amex from 1/17 or the double cash must not have been reporting yet (usually takes ~2months for new Amex cards to show up on reports).
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Apr 3, 2017 18:57
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KaiserKarl posted:Looking for recommendations on continuing to improve credit (current 678) and maximize travel benefit. Long story short, I was a dumbass, missed three payments over the last three years and only very recently started checking my credit, seriously managing finances, and considering card benefits while earning a healthy income. What are your two accounts? That is, what card(s) do you have already?
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Apr 14, 2017 07:13
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KaiserKarl posted:Old is a BofA BankAmericard and the newer one is a BofA Travel Rewards. I was young a dumb. How late were the missed payments? 30d? e: And how recent was the last one? astral fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 07:35
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KaiserKarl posted:Old is a BofA BankAmericard and the newer one is a BofA Travel Rewards. I was young a dumb. KaiserKarl posted:All 30d (7/2016, 8/2015, and 9/2014) I think at this point you might be good to get a non-secured card. BofA might be a bit leery about extending you much, if any, additional credit, but you could probably shift credit with a reconsideration call. You'd need an approval of at least 5k to get the Alaska Visa Signature; they're notorious for approving people for less than 5k instead, which means you'd get Alaska Visa Platinum with the worse benefits. My personal recommendations, though: 1) Look into writing BofA what's called a "goodwill letter". Basically you'd explain whatever hardships or circumstances led to one or more of those late payments, and ask nicely that they remove the negative mark from your report. Having a good recent payment history will help with this, but since you've got one every 11 months or so it might be a harder sell. You can find more info about goodwill letters online. 2) If you haven't already, see if they'll remove one or more of the late marks if you enroll in autopay. If you already have setup autopay, I'd suggest including that in the aforementioned letter as part of how you're making sure something like that doesn't happen again. 3) When you're ready to apply for a new card, make sure you've paid your balances down to a good utilization (I'd suggest letting one card report 0% and the other ~10%) before the statements cut. Then about a week later (giving those low statement balances a chance to report to the CRAs), apply for the card(s) you've decided on. 4) Consider Chase bank for your next card. Being approved for a new line of credit will help your score more than just shifting lines around with BofA. Chase has some really solid travel cards, and you might be able to swing one of them: the Chase Sapphire Preferred. You can read more about the benefits here. Although Alaska isn't a transfer partner for ultimate rewards, they're still some of the most flexible points out there with the CSP - you're able to transfer them 1:1 to their partner airlines and hotels, redeeming them as cash at 1c per point, or spending them on their travel portal where each point buys 1.25c of travel. The trip delay reimbursement and the trip cancellation/interruption insurance that the card offers are fantastic as well. You're currently at the lower end of scores for approvals for the CSP from what I remember reading about, but the keyword there is approvals - there should be a pretty decent chance, especially if your score goes up from getting any lates removed or if it goes up a little bit from any improved utilization. Failing that, you could apply for a Freedom or Freedom Unlimited to help further build up your score/relationship with Chase Bank. If you time things right, you could start early on a weekday, make a first application (CSP) -> call the Chase reconsideration line the same day if your application goes to pending or is immediately denied -> if reconsideration fails, a second application on the same day (Freedom or Freedom Unlimited), and the hard pulls from the applications would get combined instead of stacking up against you. If for some reason none of those cards get approved and reconsideration fails, you almost certainly could get approved for the Slate, which is their rebuilder/balance transfer card. Sidenote: If you do go for the CSP, Freedom, or Freedom Unlimited, I'd recommend seeing if any of your friends or family have any of those cards, as they can score a bonus for referring you for whichever of those they have. Don't let that guide your decision though. e: all that and I forgot to say Good luck! astral fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 08:36
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US Bank is coming out with an interesting new premium travel card next month.
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Apr 19, 2017 02:52
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THF13 posted:Freeannualcreditreport.com is the official government sanctioned site where you can get your reports from all three bureaus once a year. No that's a weird amalgamation of the names of the real one (https://www.annualcreditreport.com/) and the one that plays on TV ads that isn't recommended (freecreditreport.com). Skoll posted:Thanks for the advice, guys. I live pretty frugally so a "low credit limit" won't bother me since I try not to do anything outside my means. Collections definitely show up on credit reports, but it's entirely possible you've been a victim of identity theft. Go to https://www.annualcreditreport.com/ (THIS IS THE PROPER SITE.  ) and get your credit report from at least one bureau. Chase's credit journey pulls from TransUnion so that's a good bureau to choose first. You can get one free report per bureau per year via this site, so perhaps it would make sense to only pull TransUnion to start off with.It takes time for this stuff to play out, so get the clock starting to run as soon as you have an address that'll stay constant for a while. Do note that identity verification might be a little more annoying after you move since they will have to make sure you're not an identity thief trying to open/modify/manage accounts with a different address. 
astral fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Apr 19, 2017 |
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Apr 19, 2017 18:50
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Just got a 70,000 bonus points for $4,000 of spending in the first 3 months offer from Chase Sapphire Preferred. $0 fee for first year, $95 after that. Good deal? I've got business travel coming up that I get reimbursed for, should be $1500-2000 I can put on a personal card. That's the best deal for that card, yes.
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Apr 28, 2017 21:01
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Pryor on Fire posted:Most people don't have access to their real FICO, the number that every other bank is offering up to you for free as your "FICO" on their website is actually a bullshit inflated number that is (often) substantially higher than your actual FICO. They offer this to obfuscate the process a bit more and make it less likely you'll dispute anything in your credit report because it's incredibly costly to the bureaus when you do so. There are several different FICO scoring models (and FICO Bankcard scoring models), and it helps to know which banks are offering which models. Here's a nice list I found: http://www.doctorofcredit.com/comparison-free-fico-scores-banks-cus/ e: And just about all the FICO models' scores are more useful than Vantage scores that are offered by a ton of places.
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Apr 28, 2017 21:15
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Ixian posted:They aren't going to let you do that. Conceivably you could try by paying with balance transfer checks instead but I doubt it. Also those usually carry fees. Could you elaborate on this? Cheston's post read like a textbook balance transfer to me, though I've personally never done one.
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May 23, 2017 05:22
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Ixian posted:Going from one Chase card to another taking advantage of the promo/points/rates for both? Again, he/she'd need to read the cardholder agreement. I don't work for Chase but this seems unlikely. Transferring a balance from one Chase card to another doesn't seem like an event that would qualify as paying off the balance for points as Chase defines it. Their balance transfer destination would be a Citi card, though, not a Chase card. It's true that same-bank balance transfers are generally not allowed. quote:I have a CSR myself and the agreement clearly states balance transfers and cash advances do not count towards point redemption though it is unclear whether that applies to this particular scheme. Probably only one way to find out. This just means that if you do a balance transfer (or cash advance) to your CSR, you don't earn points on the amount transferred (or advanced) like you normally would for a purchase. e: Looking back, I see what probably caused some misunderstanding - I read their phrasing of 'move to ultimate rewards' as poor wording for transferring the UR points earned from the freedom unlimited to a CSP or CSR to be able to redeem them at a higher value. I don't think they meant that they wanted to do more than one balance transfer.
astral fucked around with this message at 05:50 on May 23, 2017 |
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May 23, 2017 05:37
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Cheston posted:Oh! Yeah, my mistake. I have a CSR and a freedom unlimited- it's not a travel/restaurant purchase, so I get the most points (1.5/$) from buying with the freedom card and then moving the points over. I already met the requirements for both cards' sign up bonuses, this is just regular use. Yeah, if you factor in the bonus on the Freedom and its usefulness beyond the initial purchase/0% period, that's a much better plan - you get more in the short and long term that way. If you're near a branch, there's a small chance that you're pre-approved for a larger-than-usual bonus for the freedom: $300 (as 30k UR) instead of the normal $150 (as 15k UR). Talk to one of the sit-down bankers to find this out; just ask one of them if you are pre-approved for any credit cards. Otherwise, you should see if you have a friend or relative with the Freedom card to give you a referral signup link for the card - clicking their link gives you the same $150 (15k UR) bonus as the regular online signup, and they get some nice points for it. astral fucked around with this message at 17:02 on May 23, 2017 |
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May 23, 2017 17:00
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Duckman2008 posted:I need a credit card for a year of 0% interest (give or take on the time). Recommendations on the best one? Awards of course is a nice bonus. If you aren't doing a balance transfer: Chase Freedom & Freedom Unlimited both have an intro 0% interest period on purchases, as well as a $150 cashback signup bonus if you spend $500 or more on purchases in the first 3 months. Freedom Unlimited is 1.5% back on everything; Freedom is 1% back on everything with rotating 5% categories. If you go with either of these, you should see if you have a friend or relative with that card to give you a referral signup link for the card - clicking their link gives you the same $150 signup bonus as the regular online signup, and they get some nice points for it. Another good option for you might be the Discover It card: 0% purchase APR for 14 months, 1% back on everything with rotating 5% categories. Further, all cashback you earn within the first year is doubled on your first cardmember anniversary, making it effectively 2% back with 10% rotating categories for your first year. Note that Discover card acceptance is a bit lower than Visa/MC. With the Discover card, you can choose a (bad) $75 or so amazon money signup bonus by signing up through Amazon, but there's a much better deal: if you get referred to the card, you and your referrer each get an extra $50 in cashback immediately, and it even doubles so you'd get another $50 after a year. e: You can see the calendars for the rotating category cards here: https://creditcards.chase.com/freedom/calendar https://www.discover.com/credit-cards/cashback-bonus/cashback-calendar.html astral fucked around with this message at 20:43 on May 24, 2017 |
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May 24, 2017 20:40
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ManDingo posted:They never asked me to verify anything for my Chase Ink Business Preferred. I don't have a business. I just added LLC to my last name for the business name. I"ve had it for about 2 months now. Please don't claim to be an LLC when you aren't. Since an LLC requires state registration, Chase (or any other lender) can pretty easily verify that this is fraudulent. Just because they haven't done this verification yet doesn't mean you aren't utterly screwed the moment you do anything they deem suspicious.
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May 26, 2017 19:32
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Michael Corleone posted:I have a FNB Omaha credit card with a $19 annual fee that I would like to cancel if they won't waive the fee (they won't based on last time I asked). I called up the number and I would have been able to cancel without talking to someone, BUT, do I still have to pay the fee? It is on my statement and is due on the 22nd. Otherwise I'll just pay it and cancel next May. The $19 is the only thing on the card, I never use it since I have better credit and rewards cards now. Talk to someone there and find out what your options are before making an assumption - with some banks, retention offers can change as often as daily, and they frequently change from before/after the annual fee actually posts to your account. It's also worth seeing if they'd let you product change it to a card with no annual fee. If you've had the card for a while, it could help the average age of accounts part of your credit score to do this.
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Jul 17, 2017 17:48
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Thufir posted:Speaking of the Reserve, does anyone know what the travel credit deal is now that they have changed it to being on your card anniversary rather than calendar year? I already used the credit in 2016 and 2017, is it going to reset again next month at my anniversary? If you applied before it changed, you're subject to the old terms. Your next one's available after your Dec '17 statement date.
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Aug 20, 2017 23:05
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drainpipe posted:Man, I wish I had known this when I first started applying for credit cards earlier this year. I was initially just focused on long term cards so I got the DoubleCash and Blue Cash Preferred, both of which have been great (my grocery bill is at least $500 a month). I did manage to get $200 from the restaurant cash back promotion for the BCP. 1/3 would be cutting it a little tight since that's most likely the cutoff for the transactions' post date rather than transaction date.
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Sep 9, 2017 18:30
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60k is the standard offer; you should be able to get 75k or 100k from visiting their pages in incognito mode over time e:ditch that PRG after your current cardmember year is up and get an Amex Everyday if you want a no-af card that'll keep your MR points alive astral fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Sep 17, 2017 |
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Sep 17, 2017 06:31
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Make sure to product change the CSR rather than closing it; if you don't have both a freedom and freedom unlimited you can change it to one of those (or you could always change it to a second freedom for double the 5x bonus limit).
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Sep 18, 2017 03:22
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TraderStav posted:What's the advantage with that? I have a freedom with her as an AU. Not the unlimited though. Freedom Unlimited gives you 1.5x UR on everyday spending, which depending on how much you value the points could be more or less than a 2% cashback card. Or, as mentioned, if you get a second freedom you have two times the 5% category caps. Credit score wise it boosts your amount of available credit, contributes to your average age of accounts, etc. Chase bank wise it probably helps that they don't see you opening an account and then closing it after a year.
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Sep 18, 2017 03:58
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Chase can just move the available credit to another card if someone is really worried about minmaxing their score. I just moved my available credit from my CSR to my Amazon and Freedom cards before closing it so as not to impact my overall utilization ratio. I'll likely do the same when/if I close my Freedom, assuming they'll let me push an Amazon card's limit past the $50,000 mark. Sure, for available credit. However, after ten years one fewer account may still have an adverse affect on your average age of credit depending on your amount/age of other cards. p.s. Giving up the Freedom would be tantamount to heresy!
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Sep 18, 2017 04:25
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Quandary posted:Credit Card question: I recently got the Chase Sapphire preferred, and must have screwed something up when I applied because my card has my name followed by an MD, ie 'John Doe MD'. I am not a medical doctor, so I must have accidentally typoed the card application. Does this mater? If it's irrelevant, I'm not gonna bother trying to fix it but if it matters I'll go through getting it fixed. I'd recommend getting your card fixed ASAP to be on the safe side. You'll probably also have to check in on one or more of your credit reports - once the bank reports that name to the credit bureaus (maybe with the hard pull and/or maybe when the new account gets reported after a statement or two), it can get attached to your report.
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Oct 1, 2017 21:11
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waloo posted:What are meaningful differences that would sway somebody deciding between something like citi doublecash and the newer paypal 2% mastercard? The paypal mastercard would mean you'd have to deal with paypal, which is arguably a pretty big downside. Double Cash only lets you redeem once you have iirc $25 in rewards saved up, which can be a hassle if you're not using it as your primary spend card at the time. Citibank's IT is notoriously bad. Aside from some of the stories I've heard, I've personally run into situations where the correct password was pasted straight out of a password manager manager only to be rejected as a failed login, but then it'll work a minute later. One time it wouldn't let me login on my primary browser (regular or private windows, cookies cleared, nothing), but it would let me login with a secondary browser. Once it wouldn't let me log in on any browser, with no message indicating downtime or anything - just that the information I provided wasn't correct. I'd still choose the DC over the Paypal if I had to make the choice. e: oh I should mention one of the best citi IT stories which, as far as I know, still holds true: say you have a credit card account, and you later decide to get a citi checking for a while and link it to the same account. if you close the citi checking, it closes your online account because why would you want to access your other citi products, right? astral fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Oct 9, 2017 |
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Oct 9, 2017 00:41
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8-bit Miniboss posted:I'm happy with my credit union's rewards card, but I'm looking for a 2nd for infrequent, surprise or large expenses. Would I be looking for a basic low-interest card? Any suggestions on that front or should I be looking at something else? Credit Karma is pitching me the Capital One Venture One card. Ideally don't use a credit card to finance things. That said, the Venture One shouldn't be signed up for directly; if you're set on that specific one, sign up for the Venture and product change after a year. If you know a large expense is coming up (or you know your next 3 months' chargeable expenses will be over $4,000), I'd recommend you try to get a card that would give you a good ($400+) signup bonus to offset some of the cost involved. An easy recommendation is something like the Chase Sapphire Preferred. It has an annual fee that is waived the first year and gives you a signup bonus for the equivalent of $500 (if redeemed for cash; $625 if redeemed via their travel portal, or you could transfer the points 1:1 to one of their airline or hotel partners) back on $4,000 in spend. Not to mention, if you have a family member with the card, you could and should sign up under their referral to give them an extra $100 worth of rewards points, making the benefit that much greater. After the first year, you do what's called a Product Change to a no-annual-fee card like the Chase Freedom (rotating 5% categories, 1% on everything else) or Chase Freedom Unlimited (1.5% back as points [worth at least .01 each] on everything) so you'd get to keep the account open to improve your credit score. TraderStav posted:I've always heard good things about the Discover IT from a churning perspective. A colleague got me to sign up for one back in 2013 and I never activated the card. I just received my replacement card as the previous expired so could actually register my account. What is the best promotion / use for this card? Would it be better if I cancelled it and signed back up for it at some point or are the signup bonuses either not that great or I'm ineligible since I currently hold the card. Is there a time period I need to wait to be eligible again? You missed the boat on the first-year cashback match (every cent of cashback you earn during the first year is doubled at the one year mark), but there are occasionally some good Discover Deals and you should at the very least be taking advantage of the 5% quarters. The current quarter has 5% back at Amazon and Target - you do have to manually activate the 5% each quarter though, but it's a single click. Discover's Cashback Bonus is good because in addition to redeeming it as cash or a statement credit, you have access to a library of discounted gift cards that give you at least an extra $5. For example, you could get a $50 gift card to a specific restaurant using only $45 of your cashback. While it's true that gift cards sometimes go on sale for similar prices, it's convenient that you don't have to worry about that. Sometimes they'll have featured offers where you can get a $25 GC for only $20, too. You might even try calling in (to the US-based customer support!), explain the situation, and ask if you're eligible to get a year of Cashback Match, which would make it all the sweeter.
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Oct 11, 2017 02:03
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It should be noted that the rental car coverage from the CSP is collision-only, not liability.
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Oct 11, 2017 02:13
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Cacafuego posted:E: I should also mention I spend about $40k per year on the CSP. Is that all travel/dining? If so, you should definitely consider switching to the CSR. If not, you should shift some of that unbonused spend to a Freedom Unlimited for 1.5% back as UR (or Freedom if it aligns with the rotating categories for 5% back as UR). Points are transferable between the cards, so you get to move them over and use them with the enhanced points-spending/transfering power of the CSP (or CSR).
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Oct 11, 2017 02:28
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8-bit Miniboss posted:$4000 is above my head. I was thinking like $1000 tops, maybe 2K but very unlikely. I'm not interested in churning. I'd be doing term loans otherwise for those large amounts. There are some cards in that range - mostly airline/hotel cards (United, Southwest, and American come to mind for airlines, though some have an AF), though there are also some nice no-AF ones like Chase Freedom/Freedom Unlimited which come with a $150 signup bonus on $500 spend. You probably have a friend or family that can refer you to one of these, too, and they'll get a cool referral bonus for that too. Amex Everyday or Blue Cash Everyday are also good, and the Amex Offers that show up from time to time on those cards can be pretty nice. Initio posted:Are you sure the discover cash back match is over? I still saw it offered when I looked tonight. I was planning on applying later this month so I could get 2 years worth of bonus for amazon. For the poster who has had the card since 2013, but never used it, yes. New customers can still get it! Make sure you sign up with a friend's referral so you can get the $50 bonus (which is unavailable any other way), which is matched after the first year for a total of a cool $100 with zero spend required. I'm coming up on the end of my first year, and while I didn't try to max it out perfectly or anything, I'm still going to get just under $300 matched next month. More if I buy an amazon or target GC this month, which I'm strongly considering! edit: clarified something astral fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Oct 11, 2017 |
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Oct 11, 2017 04:31
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life is a joke posted:Did anyone continue this? It says offer unavailable, but I'm not sure if the promo is over, or if I just need to get a new referral link. Looks like the old links are dead and need to be regenerated. edit: I'd guess the change is related to the new referral-application page that shows all the available cards.
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Oct 20, 2017 08:17
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Blinkman987 posted:Everybody who lives in CA and doesn't get hosed by the Chase 5/24 rule can get a companion pass Note that now Chase also has some new wording about only holding one card in the southwest card family - so, once they fully straighten out the IT involved, this might be the only simple way to get a companion pass in the future. life is a joke posted:I followed your link and applied with it, I didn't get that same error as before and it let me proceed with the application, though it gave no indication that either you or I were getting any sort of benefit from the referral program. Here's hoping though, thanks for the link. That's normal for Discover - by your first statement after making a purchase, it should show the $50 (and that it'll be matched to an extra $50 after your first year). Enjoy! astral fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Oct 20, 2017 |
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Oct 20, 2017 17:10
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In cool credit card news, Mastercard will be ending signature requirements by April 2018!
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Oct 20, 2017 22:54
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Assuming you can afford to pay for it from the beginning / pay a card off immediately: Even at, say, a nearly worst-case scenario of 3% markup for someone accepting CCs for a large job like that, the signup bonuses can be $400-500 back on $4,000 spend - at least a 10% return for a spend of exactly that much, not counting whatever 1-2% cash back they might have on the purchases themselves. Subtract the 3% and you still come out ahead by a fair margin. Example: With an $18-20k spend it wouldn't be unreasonable to open 4+ different cards and split the bill, netting at least $1700 in cashback (at 4 cards) before deducting $600 (3% of the total 20k). You'd still be over $1k ahead. A fifth card would even grant an extra $400-$500 - over $1.5k ahead. Standard disclaimer to obviously find out the contractor or merchant's exact terms of making payments with credit cards before embarking upon this journey, as well as the terms and information for the specific cards you'd be getting. It's a bit of work to familiarize yourself with all that stuff, but for over $1k? Probably worth it! And I'll repeat the bit about assuming you already have the money to pay for the thing.
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Oct 27, 2017 22:36
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 11:25 |
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Ron Don Volante posted:I didn't find anything in the last 10 pages of the thread so apologies if this has been discussed before, but does anyone have the Alliant Visa Signature Card (or any Alliant credit card)? 3% cashback the first year, 2.5% cashback thereafter (both unlimited). $59 annual fee, waived the first year. I'm thinking of switching to it as my primary business card if I can get a decent credit line. I'm currently spending well over the annual fee breakeven point and am just using the Amazon Rewards Visa because of the large credit line they gave me, which is probably a waste. I'm also not a USAA member (or related to one), so that option's out. Get a business credit card for high-volume business purchases. Most, if not all, consumer cards have clauses about not using them for business. Some banks are pretty aggressive about these kinds of shutdowns.
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Oct 28, 2017 17:13
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