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Hadlock posted:This is my handheld. I used it as a chart plotter in at least two races before I got the ram3+ remote thing. You can plug your waypoints in and setup the course on both. They're alarmingly good piece of technology We can only hope.
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Jan 27, 2024 03:19
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Hadlock posted:You need a license to operate a marine VHF radio in Canada? yeah, we ain't got no freedom Hadlock posted:And the coast guard is recording all your calls. 
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Jan 27, 2024 03:25
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sharkytm posted:I'm a big Standard Horizon radio fan. I've seen many many cheap radios (Cobra is the lowest tier of name brand) die with very little use. ICOM is another option. Having had some time to think about it, I'm not 100% set on that particular model. When you say cheap radios die with little use, do you mean kill the batteries or just stop working? Does Cobra fall in that category? As a whole or just their cheap radios?
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Jan 28, 2024 18:24
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+1 for Standard Horizon equipment, I haven't had anything else to compare it to, but it hasn't failed me on any of my boats
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Jan 28, 2024 21:37
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wesleywillis posted:Once spring comes around, I plan on taking my boat to a place to get the hull acid washed to get all the dried on algae and poo poo off it. Iirc, you have an aluminum hulled boat which will severely limit the types of paint you can use since it can't have copper in it. Your painter and storage conditions will probably determine how long the bottom paint lasts more than brand, but pettit and sea hawk seem to do well enough at work.
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Jan 28, 2024 23:02
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Elmnt80 posted:Iirc, you have an aluminum hulled boat which will severely limit the types of paint you can use since it can't have copper in it. Your painter and storage conditions will probably determine how long the bottom paint lasts more than brand, but pettit and sea hawk seem to do well enough at work. Uhhhhh what? Are the anti fouling coatings not clear? MY boat is painted, or gel coated or whatever red from the factory. I was hoping that the anti-fouling coatings were similar to a wax or ceramic coat etc for a car where its a clear product that just sticks/coats the bottom of the hull. But I admit I don't know anything about this type of stuff. If its a paint like thing that changes the colour or whatever then gently caress that. I'll get it acid washed every year.
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Jan 28, 2024 23:25
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wesleywillis posted:Uhhhhh what? The stuff you're looking for exists. People who are used to sailboats use very different stuff because their boats tend to be built differently, are slower, and are hilariously more difficult to pull out of the water. This leads to wanting stuff that'll last as long as possible even if it is thick af and leads to a slightly rougher surface.
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Jan 29, 2024 00:07
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Cat Hatter posted:The stuff you're looking for exists. People who are used to sailboats use very different stuff because their boats tend to be built differently, are slower, and are hilariously more difficult to pull out of the water. This leads to wanting stuff that'll last as long as possible even if it is thick af and leads to a slightly rougher surface. Got ya. gently caress. Ah well. Does ceramic coating the hull do anything to keep crap from sticking or does it just make my bank account smaller? *I've read* that it can make the boat go a bit faster because the hull is slightly slicker or some poo poo, but A: I don't care, B: I also don't care, C: I'm not trying to race anyone etc etc etc...
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Jan 29, 2024 00:16
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To my understanding it makes crud stick less so it builds up slower and comes off easier, like wax but it works a bit better and lasts a bit longer. I only have firsthand experience with boat wax and car ceramic though and have to extrapolate a bit.
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Jan 29, 2024 00:35
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wesleywillis posted:Having had some time to think about it, I'm not 100% set on that particular model. Cheap radios are cheap for a reason. Battery failures, display failures, leaks, etc. A radio is a piece of life-saving equipment IMHO, so I think it's worth spending the money on a name-brand unit. As for bottom paint, you'll need to stick with aluminum-safe compositions, and/or have a barrier coat applied first. Also, you need to maintain your anodes.
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Jan 31, 2024 18:44
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sharkytm posted:Cheap radios are cheap for a reason. Battery failures, display failures, leaks, etc. A radio is a piece of life-saving equipment IMHO, so I think it's worth spending the money on a name-brand unit. Fair enough, I'm not married to that particular one since I made the post. Have been looking at other options since.
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Jan 31, 2024 18:54
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wesleywillis posted:Uhhhhh what? Most use a copper based biocide in an ablative paint, but there are clear silicon based alternatives. I just didn't mention them since the only one I have firsthand knowledge of is 1k+ for enough to do 10'. There are probably cheaper options out there, but it will require some searching most likely.
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Feb 1, 2024 00:47
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You should really be looking at something better described as "fancy wax" than "paint" if you're putting it on gelcoat.
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Feb 1, 2024 01:03
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just slap a sign to your hull underwater that says 'no loitering'. growth problem solved.
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Feb 1, 2024 01:42
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Yeah I haven't looked into it but sailboat and speed boat anti fouling is probably about as different as you can get It was really interesting to watch sv delos struggle bus with silicone based anti fouling paint, ultrasonic hull transducers etc and basically give up on high tech ideas The one thing that does seem to work really well is mixing pure molecular(?) powdered copper with epoxy then coating your boat with that but 1) copper based paints are largely illegal for civilians, because when it flakes off and sinks to the bottom it's just poison sitting there. The military has carved out exceptions so large for themselves you could float a panamax sized destroyer through them 2) it's really heavy, and moderately difficult to apply compared to regular paint 3) it lasts forever, like literally 20 years. Nobody wants to sell a product that never needs replacement or needs maintenance
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Feb 1, 2024 06:52
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Hadlock posted:Yeah I haven't looked into it but sailboat and speed boat anti fouling is probably about as different as you can get Copper based antifouling paints work fine but you need to refresh them regularly because the copper leaches out into the water. The copper powder/epoxy mix you're talking about (it's called Coppercoat, it's an actual product that's been on the market for many years at this point) doesn't have any usage or application restrictions I'm aware of, neither in the EU nor in the US, but it's not magical either. You don't have to apply more like you do with a regular antifouling paint, but you have to sand it with 400-600 grit paper regularly instead, to expose new copper. The manufacturer claims this only needs to be done after "several years" but from what I've heard from people who use it it's really more like once a year if you want it to really stay effective. I don't know what the rules are in the US but here in Europe copper-based antifouling paint is legally a biocide, so manufacturers need regulatory approval for their products, but the toxicity to humans is low enough that you don't need any special qualifications to apply it to boat hulls. Around here (Sweden) hard copper-based paint is generally preferred for sailboats. Ablative copper-based paint is somewhat more effective in preventing growth but it's worse for the environment (duh) and it has a (very minor) drag penalty, and the growth around here really isn't so bad that you'd really need it. Also most boats go on up on the hard for the winter anyway so you have plenty of opportunities to refresh the paint. Some parts of the hull tend to get much more fouling than the rest so you usually don't have to repaint it all every year, you can usually get away with patching it up. Silicon-based paints can work, especially in the Baltic with its lower salinity, but you need to scrub the bottom regularly AFAIK. If your boat is trailerable though and you generally don't keep it in the water for extended periods of time, you really don't need anti-fouling paint at all. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Feb 1, 2024 |
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Feb 1, 2024 16:43
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Hadlock posted:The one thing that does seem to work really well is mixing pure molecular(?) powdered copper with epoxy then coating your boat with that but All of this is wrong.
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Feb 2, 2024 12:52
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I spent the last few days offshore sailing the NAO Trinidad south. She's a full-scale replica of Magellan's flagship, a working square rigged tall ship, and a floating museum! Here she is at the dock in Fernandina Beach:   We had to turn the main yard at 3am to make room to pass through the bridge of lions:  Here you can see the yard turned:  And then here are some of my favorite shots of the trip     The ship will be here until April and then the next stop is Charleston, SC.
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Feb 4, 2024 13:25
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Sailing replicas are neat. I spent a few weeks one magical summer in my late teens sailing on this thing:  She was built in the 1990´s as a replica of a galeas cargo vessel drawn in the mid 1700's by a designer of some renown. These boats were mass produced in the northern baltic out of local materials, i.e. not oak, so they didn't last long. They were loaded up with lumber and tar and other local goods and sailed down to southern Europe, often one way as floating disposable packaging for the cargo, more or less. The replica only lasted about a decade before being to rotted to keep maintaining - I guess building out of pine and spruce will do that. Anyways, she was pretty awesome in her prime. The cargo hold was all modern with diesel engines and flushing toilets, bunk beds, long tables, a big galley and what have you. The cabin and everything above deck save some modern safety stuff was all replica - hemp rigging and sails, a moose hide rope running from the wheel to the tiller and so on. I learned so much in those weeks, including just how easily I get seasick which is the main reason I don't have boats in my life. Invalido fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Feb 4, 2024 |
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Feb 4, 2024 18:50
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I love tall ships and older sailing ships in general, but my tastes run to slightly more modern era stuff. I've spent probably 10 different weekends on the Californian out of the San Diego Maritime museum, and I've sailed 3 times on the Curlew out of Dana Point. She's a John Alden designed Schooner built in 1926, not a replica. If I was stupidly wealthy I'd have some sort of large sailing vessel that I could live on and just sail around the world. But I'm old and would need a crew, so it would have to be large and therefore the need for lots of money to make it happen.
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Feb 4, 2024 19:09
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tall ships are awesome and I'm mad with jealousy right now
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Feb 4, 2024 20:59
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TheFluff posted:tall ships are awesome and I'm mad with jealousy right now The Fundación Nao Victoria is looking for volunteers!
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Feb 5, 2024 01:22
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Ok, so Cobra VHF radios aren't that great, Standard Horizon makes good radios, what about Uniden? Icom? Those are couple brands I saw with a quick search at a local radio place. Any other brands I should look at? Others I should completely avoid? I want a handheld one because I don't know where the gently caress I'd mount one and I'd like to be able to take it with me. I know, I know, they can still get my trolling motor by unplugging one plug and turning one screw, and my fish finders with two screws and unplugging a few wires. But I guess one less thing to get jacked until I forget and leave it on board.
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Feb 5, 2024 19:05
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Karma Comedian posted:The Fundación Nao Victoria is looking for volunteers! Looks a bit far away for me. But what we do have here is the East Indiaman Götheborg, that's at least based in the right country, although I don't know how active it is right now.
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Feb 6, 2024 17:17
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wesleywillis posted:Ok, so Cobra VHF radios aren't that great, Standard Horizon makes good radios, what about Uniden? Icom? Those are couple brands I saw with a quick search at a local radio place. I think any radio is better than the amount you're overthinking this. Get a Standard Horizon and cross it off your list.
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Feb 6, 2024 18:27
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wesleywillis posted:Ok, so Cobra VHF radios aren't that great, Standard Horizon makes good radios, what about Uniden? Icom? Those are couple brands I saw with a quick search at a local radio place. Icom is fine. I'm just partial to Standard. But yeah, just buy one from one of those 2 brands and move on. $120 at Worst Marine: https://www.westmarine.com/standard-horizon-hx210-floating-handheld-vhf-radio-18050542.html
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Feb 6, 2024 23:06
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Ive got to install a vhf antenna on the mast head, I assume the little shakespear whip guy is probably pretty good right?
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Feb 8, 2024 04:32
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Yeah, the stainless whip antenna is fine. I have one on the side of the console on my flats boat. Worked a treat for probably 25-30ish years. I think the signal cable is only 10' on them, so do doublecheck when ordering them.
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Feb 8, 2024 06:45
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On a scale of 1 to Oceangate how bad an idea is it to get a well-kept 1960s wooden sailboat for typical great lakes sailing season usage? I don't have any experience maintaining wooden boats but can find time to do my own upkeep and can buy some books to figure things out gradually. Recent survey is positive. I've seen a bunch of plastic boats lately but none have pulled at my heartstrings like this one. Post history tldr is that this would be my first owned boat but I have sailing experience.
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Feb 14, 2024 18:40
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I asked one of the guys at the club about maintenance on his wooden daysailor. He laughed, and said as a starting point consider 10x the time and 10x the cost compared to fiberglass. They're gorgeous looking boats but 100% a labour of love and money to keep operating, at least how this owner described it.
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Feb 14, 2024 19:10
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CmdrSmirnoff posted:On a scale of 1 to Oceangate how bad an idea is it to get a well-kept 1960s wooden sailboat for typical great lakes sailing season usage? I don't have any experience maintaining wooden boats but can find time to do my own upkeep and can buy some books to figure things out gradually. Recent survey is positive. I've seen a bunch of plastic boats lately but none have pulled at my heartstrings like this one. Oceangate, unless you have essentially unlimited spare cash/time to throw at it "Can find time" is not enough
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Feb 14, 2024 19:13
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wooden boats are the most beautiful boats, and also the ones that sit around trying to get sold for months/years at ever-dropping prices and sometimes just get given away.
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Feb 14, 2024 19:21
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CmdrSmirnoff posted:On a scale of 1 to Oceangate < literally anything involving wooden boats > If oceangate is barely a 3, then what's a ten because it's definitely a ten Fake edit; It's like using an A380 airplane full of women and children as a submarine. In a lake of lava. On Venus. During a supernova. As you're getting sucked in to a black hole. The only wooden boat I would endorse would be one of those ornamental, fully glass and kevlar encapsulated hand made cedar strip canoe or kayak, or a brand new one you promise you'll sell in ten years or less and not a day later
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Feb 14, 2024 19:40
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Kenshin posted:"Can find time" is not enough  New thread title I have a fiberglass boat with epoxy encapsulated bulkheads, rod rigging, oversized keel bolts, and a single piece of exposed teak and I just barely have enough time to keep it from literally sinking
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Feb 14, 2024 19:43
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Is rod rigging easily adjustable? I can't use it because of class rules, but I've always wondered. We'll adjust rig tension based on windspeed before each race night, or even out on the water if things change significantly from expected. But it's easy with the turnbluckles and wire rigging, I don't even use a gauge anymore. We have our default position, and then it's just X turns +/- based on weather conditions, and reset to default when we're packing the boat up.
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Feb 14, 2024 20:18
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Our rod rigging uses turnbuckles too. They're indistinguishable aside from the fact that it has a 20+ year service life (given regular inspections) The big "downside" is that the "rivet head" can crack over the decades, so they... Have to cut off about half an inch, and then "rivet" it to the turnbuckle again. Eventually after like 50-60 years you'll probably need to buy a new, longer turnbuckle Magic stuff. Made out of something called, I think, Nitronic 50, and it's ridiculously strong, like 8000lbs working load for the smallest piece on my boat, and the whole boat only weighs about 7800lbs soaking wet Our local class rules don't allow you to adjust rig tension after the first start but you totally could, I have a loos gauge made for my size rod rigging
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Feb 15, 2024 01:46
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Our SC50 has rod rigging, the main benefit over wire is less weight aloft for the same load rating. Nitronic is also a good bit less susceptible to work hardening than 316 or 304 SS so it's happier noodling around with the mast when you wait too long to put the running backs on. The really trick boats now have carbon rod rigging which is pretty neat - super strong, light, flexible. Sadly they don't give it away. I want to like dyneema rigging, and for something small or staying in inland/coastal waters I'd probably do it, but I'd be too worried about it chafing out in the ocean. I don't really want to have to go aloft weekly to inspect it. So the old girl will probably get rod again unless something drastically changes in my sailing budget...
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Feb 15, 2024 04:03
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Hadlock posted:Our rod rigging uses turnbuckles too. They're indistinguishable aside from the fact that it has a 20+ year service life (given regular inspections) Interesting - definitely not necessary on my little 24' boat, but it's a neat way of doing things. I figured there would still be turnbuckles, but kinda figured they'd be more difficult to adjust with the rod. Big Taint posted:Our SC50 has rod rigging, the main benefit over wire is less weight aloft for the same load rating. Nitronic is also a good bit less susceptible to work hardening than 316 or 304 SS so it's happier noodling around with the mast when you wait too long to put the running backs on. The really trick boats now have carbon rod rigging which is pretty neat - super strong, light, flexible. Sadly they don't give it away. I want to like dyneema rigging, and for something small or staying in inland/coastal waters I'd probably do it, but I'd be too worried about it chafing out in the ocean. I don't really want to have to go aloft weekly to inspect it. So the old girl will probably get rod again unless something drastically changes in my sailing budget... Dyneema as rigging is interesting, but I feel like it wouldn't last as long. I very well could be wrong though.
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Feb 15, 2024 22:43
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I think dyneema for boats under 30' is a slam dunk as long as you're staying coastal. At that size, especially with the pre stretch heat set stuff, the stretch is imperceptible. But more importantly, you can do all your own standing rigging with basic tools Emma kites on Amazon sells all variety of sizes I've been using it as soft shackles and other various stuff for a while. If I had a J/24 or whatever and it was class legal I wouldn't hesitate to use it if my rig was EOL Soft shackles are the poo poo, green crew can be trained to use them in 30 seconds and nobody needs to know how to tie a bowline knot, and if you get whomped on the head by the jib tack, nobody is going to the hospital Dyneema is being used in the crane industry and it's the "premium" option on off-road Jeep winches now so the price is coming way way down it's not so exotic any more
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Feb 15, 2024 23:03
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CmdrSmirnoff posted:On a scale of 1 to Oceangate how bad an idea is it to get a well-kept 1960s wooden sailboat for typical great lakes sailing season usage? I don't have any experience maintaining wooden boats but can find time to do my own upkeep and can buy some books to figure things out gradually. Recent survey is positive. I've seen a bunch of plastic boats lately but none have pulled at my heartstrings like this one. If you're getting a boat because you really like sanding and varnishing and general woodworking projects, and religiously follow Sampson Boat Co's channel on YouTube, it's a pretty cool idea. Takes a lot of time though; say goodbye to your weekends most of the year but especially in spring and fall (and I hope you like working outdoors in whatever weather you have, or alternately I hope you're loaded and can afford indoor storage in winter). I know some folks who own a 43 foot sailing yacht from 1938 and they handle it by having three families share ownership of it. If you're getting a boat because you wanna go sailing and you haven't ever maintained a sailboat before, then yeah, no, don't do that. It's probably fine for the first season but after that you'll almost certainly get overwhelmed and either let the boat decay or just get too busy with maintenance to ever enjoy it. Learning how to take care of a sailboat takes time, and a wooden sailboat is way more labor intensive and complex than a fiberglass one. Even if you're getting a fiberglass one though, you probably should learn to at least sort of enjoy wrenching on it, so to speak. A well-kept boat doesn't stay well-kept on its own; it's not like a car that mainly wears through the miles you put on it. A boat is constantly under attack from rust, marine growth and UV light. It's an eternal struggle against the elements to keep it serviceable and pleasant to use, and a wooden boat wears in a lot of interesting ways a fiberglass boat doesn't. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Feb 16, 2024 |
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Feb 16, 2024 19:03
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