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Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Just bought a Lancer 27 with everything ripped out from behind the panel.

Let's see if I electrocute myself or if I sink first.

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Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Talk me out of buying a forty foot trawler and moving onto it forever.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

I've got a (bought used) tohatsu 9.8 four stroke tiller control outboard on the back of my sailboat that I've put arounnnnd 30nm on. I'd noticed before that it seemed to stop increasing in power around half throttle but I figured little motor/big boat, it worked well enough. Today I was motoring back towards the marina and all of a sudden it increased in power harder than it has run before, then cut back, over and over. It didn't respond to throttle much at all after that (except at the extreme low end). I limped back to the slip and tied up but lost the light so I wasn't able to check it out.

I've got no idea really where to start beyond spark plugs and filters. Any other ideas?

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

ili posted:

Not a boat motorist but I'd be looking at the fuel filter first up before digging into anything else.

This had briefly crossed my mind and since Big Taint agrees I'll check that tomorrow. The gas is all new, but the filter definitely is not.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Elmnt80 posted:

I'd also check the fuel lines feeding from the tank to filter.

It's one of those 6 gallon portable tanks so there's just the one line but it seemed fine.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Yeah I'm absolutely using non-ethanol marine gas every time. Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll update when I get there

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

So I'm possibly purchasing a 36' center cockpit sloop. The only issue is that all of the deck paint is like... flaking? The whole deck will need to be stripped and repainted. So, my questions are:

*What is the order for primer/laquer etc
*Are there any brands of deck paint I should avoid? Any I should look for?
*Any tips for the non skid?
*Should I be looking into doing teak strips? Why or why not?

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Big Taint posted:

Are you doing it yourself? Kiwigrip is cool, easy to apply, you can choose the aggressiveness of the nonskid, relatively durable.

Paying someone else to do it? Awlgrip. Expensive, complicated, but a pro will know what to do and it’s pretty much the best out there.

PO probably used a cheap single-part paint like Brightsides that looks ok for a couple years and then peels off.

Definitely doing it myself. PO used something called treadmaster in "the 90s" and it's definitely not something I want to try again.

monsterzero posted:

Is the deck just non-skid gelcoat and glass? Or is there teak down already?


If it's just fiberglass and there aren't any issues (wet coreing) you would prime and then top coat. KiwiGrip is one of the big names, but pretty much every paint manufacturer makes a deck paint and then you can mix in rubber sand for extra traction. General gist of the job will be to sand, sand, sand (down to a solid substrate), fix defects and fair, sand again, them prime, color coat, add traction media and coat again twice.

Andy at Boatworks Today has covered this a couple of times, recently with a paint called 'AlexSeal. Technique is the same for all paint.


Teak is beautiful, but expensive- in material, time and maintenance. I wouldn't be surprised if re-doing teak on a 36'er was a 5-digit project. If you like the look, there are also laser cut, adhesive backed foam deck coverings (HydroDeck is one brand) that can look teak-ish

Just glass, no teak. And the decks are good structurally.

I do like the look, but it also gets hot and takes a certain amount of extended maintenance. I had seen the look-alike things advertised but I admittedly don't know enough about them.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Taking possession of a cutter rigged Coronado 35 MS at the end of the month and then promptly gonna gtfo to the Bahamas. I'm pretty excited, ngl.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Elmnt80 posted:

So, the old take a hike forum has been rebranded as the great outdoors and is now for all wider outdoors pursuits including boating, jetskis and the like!

https://forums.somethingawful.com/forumdisplay.php?forumid=272

Now, as much as my heart wants to keep the bote thread in AI (I mean, I was the one that made the OP, as terrible as it is), it would probably do better in a more general outdoors forum. People seemed surprised at times to find a thread for boating in the "car forum" or seemed to think that this thread was only for wrenching on boats. This thread rapidly evolved from my original idea of just posting cool boats and shaming myself into working on my boat into something cool with a bunch of goons suddenly coming in to talk about their sailboats and is now evolving again as goons talk about jetskis, motorboats and other stuff! Its been a pleasure to watch this thread going through its changes and I want to see it grow, but what happens has to be a thread consensus. Do ya'll want to stay in AI? Set sail for the great outdoors? Have this thread stay here for working on dumb boat issues and have a separate thread in TGO for actual boating adventures?

Whatever this thread decides, its been a pleasure to have ya'll in AI posting about our horrible holes in the water we throw money into.

imo boats are vehicles and belong in the vehicle forum but I don't really care too much

eta: also isn't that a rotating subforum that changes every so often? I'd hate to lose a good thread.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

I am days away from my first multi day cruise as I bring my new sailboat home

Planning on three nights for approximately 175nm :captainpop:

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

You guys have guilted me into it.

I only have a few of the pictures from the ad for a full view though





And one of the best seat in the house



Decks need repainting but survey says they're solid, brand new yanmar (78hrs), everything else is gravy.

Karma Comedian fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Aug 24, 2020

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Unrelated outboard motor question: is it possible to change to a wider transom clamp? My 9.9 is perfect for my little boat but the transom is too wide. There used to be a force 50 in that spot and I'd like to not have to use one of those adjustable brackets if I don't have to.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Elmnt80 posted:

I'm just patiently waiting for the days of big electric outboards. That aren't fuckoff priced torqueedos.

Yehhhh but those torqs are pretty sweet

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Femtosecond posted:

Or maybe it's best to just stay on Saltspring all year and have guaranteed annual spot and simply try to upgrade to closer and closer annual spots over time.

This is the safe bet OP.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Just bought a steel Bruce Roberts spray 40 :getin:

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Yeah it's all the same. As Erwin said, you've got halyards and sheets, the rest is mostly fiddling with the settings to see what works.

I learned on a cal25, then bought a lancer 27 which I've sailed relentlessly, now I'm on a coronado 35 and moving up to a Bruce Roberts 40. Bigger boats respond more slowly to changes than smaller boats is the big difference. They tend to be more "forgiving" of less than optimal trim.

Edit: also thanks everyone! Shes launching this week!

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Owning a sailboat (with cabin space) is less like owning a car and more like owning a house and all of its related infrastructure. There are a ton of resources online about what to check for; a good place to start is reading old surveys and writing down the things the surveyor checked.

Speaking of surveys, the answer to "how do I make sure I'm not getting a crap boat" is to get a full survey from a reputable surveyor. If I'm not spending a whole lot of money on the boat, I generally don't take this step. But if it's any sort of serious investment it is absolutely worth it. Some insurers will also require a recent survey including a haul out.

The question of "which boat brand is best" is a whole can of worms. General consensus is that production style boats from the late 80s through the 90s (and continuing on) are generally made with less attention as they are mass produced with cost savings in mind. There are some exceptions, which is what you'll find in all cases concerning sailboats. This is further complicated by regional variances. Boats from the PNW operate in different conditions than boats in the Bahamas, so what counts as a "good boat" for one area may not always hold true everywhere.

Sailboats are a lesson in humbling compromise

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

boxen posted:

Hrngg.
I moved from the midwest to the west coast, took some sailing lessons, and now I own about a dozen books on sailing yacht design with at least two different hull design programs on my PC. I want to DESIGN a boat and live on it. That's REALLY never going to happen.

Well not with that attitude.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Just saw my boat written about in a book by Bruce Roberts

Wow

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012


This thing is awesome.


Splashed my Spray a week ago! She floats! :woop:

Her rudder post leaks! :negative:

Looks like it's just a stuffing issue though.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Is it possible your voltmeter is reporting the charging voltage while your charger is connected to it?

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

iv46vi posted:

This post should totally end in “, arrr!”

In fact it probably should be mandatory for every post in this thread.

I'll be gettin' me masts stepped 'n' rigged next week, yarrr.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Elmnt80 posted:

gently caress, thats a nice looking piece. Also, boat A/C owns, gently caress the haters.

My boat has A/C though it's not currently ducted into the boat. Previous owner never used it. I'm going to have the yard look at it and see if it works

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

wargames posted:

Also why is this thread not call Aquatic insanity?

Because aquatic means anything related to water and nautical specifically means anything related to the navigation of water (such as boats). :eng101:


Boat news! Masts and standing rigging installed and looking fantastic. My neighbor tells me we have the most photographed boat in the marina but there's a gorgeous CT56 right across from me so I doubt that

But she certainly is fancy lookin

Karma Comedian fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jun 13, 2021

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Elmnt80 posted:

More because I didn't think of aquatic before nautical. :v:

Pfft as if I cared about YOUR reasoning :blastu:

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

wargames posted:

Slocum 43 isn't really a canal boat, and i don't plan on pushing hard for hull speed but do plan on have more then enough power then needed.

also a dude over at DIYsolar put a 10kw electric motor on his boat and ran these numbers but on a smaller boat.



The sailboat https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/slocum-43

My Spray 40 will motor along happily at 8kts on an 85hp perkins at 2600 rpm take that for whatever it's worth

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Finally got a reservation at the good boat yard.

Let the work commence :science:

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Welllllp I need new batteries for my house bank.

My current bank:



Even if this were brand new it wouldn't suit my needs tho so let's talk :toot: batteries!

I don't know that I have the patience or knowledge to build my own lifepo4 bank and bms and though I'd love to go this route I'm unsure of additional costs required in changing over aside from the batteries themselves. (If you have switched from old lead acid to lifepo4 without sinking ten grand into it let's talk)

So that aside what's everyone's favorite battery chemistry right now? The victron rep tried hard to sell me on their deep cycle agm batteries, but I haven't heard anything either way about them.

Also, I'll be installing 1245w of solar in the shape of 3x LG neon2 415w panels each with their own victron 100/50 mppt. So my question then becomes, obviously, how big of a bank can that reasonably be expected to charge to capacity at, say, Bahamian latitudes? (Or how do I do that math myself?) I want to make the most of the things I have.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

wargames posted:

https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Batt...ps%2C174&sr=8-3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBonGQe363g

lifepo4 isn't stupid expensive anymore, anyone that is trying to do stuipid expensive on lifepo4 is ripping you off.

Thanks for this.


quote:

each one shouldn't need their own mppt. a victron 75/15 should do the trick if you want each panel to have their own mppt, or just go single 150/35


Thanks for this, too, but the components are what they are; I've had these controllers and panels for a while now so the system is going in with each individual panel having an mppt.

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Wibla posted:

You should check out some of the newer videos by Will Prowse, there are newer, very reasonably priced lifepo4 batteries on the market now.

Thanks I'll give them a look.

Wibla posted:

The Victron charge controllers are great for lifepo4, you can customize all the relevant settings. Do you have the newer SmartSolar controllers, or the older BlueSolar?

I have the smartsolars for sure.

Wibla posted:

They should be networked so they stay in sync. You'll also need a battery monitor, I recommend the smartshunt or the bmv-712.

The installer recommended getting the Cerbo and the Smartshunt, so that's next on the list. (I'm also gonna get that touch monitor because why not)

I still need help figuring out how to size my new bank. I know I'm going about it rear end backwards but it's the situation I find myself in. So how do I figure how much that system is capable of charging? I'd want to size my bank around 85% or 90% of my max charging capacity so I minimize waste

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

wargames posted:

is his bank 12v? I have been living in 48v space for a while.

Yeah absolutely 12v

Wibla posted:

Coulombic efficiency dropping off a cliff + the high-ish internal resistance of lead acid (lower charge acceptance) at high state of charge means that it takes ages to hit float on lead acid using solar, and this is even worse when you're sailing and have electronics/autopilot etc running.

Lithium handles this a lot better.

Spike loads can kill FET-based BMS, and they fail into an unsafe condition.
You can parallell lithium batteries without any big issues, as long as they have (reasonably) similar state of charge.

Best practices (for safety):
- Use fuses rated for the short-circuit current capacity of lithium, we're talking kiloamps here
- Keep the lead acid starter battery!
- Strongly consider using DC-DC charger(s)
- Have separate lead acid batteries for bow thruster and the anchor winch(es), or DIY a lifepo4 battery pack with contactor-based BMS
- (IF DIY) Make sure you balance your pack properly before putting it in the boat. That means per-cell top balancing to 3.65V before assembling the pack.

Best practices (for charging):
- Keep your charge voltage below 14.2V
- Don't float above 13.6V

This is awesome and just the kind of stuff I need.

I found a 300ah lifepo4 from ampere time i think I'm going to get coming. It's almost a perfect fit for one side of the battery box.

Karma Comedian fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Aug 29, 2021

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Kenshin posted:

Normalize talking about batteries in Wh instead of Ah so we don't have to ask/specify the voltage

"I'm throwing 1kwh of solar on my boat" sounds awesome


I met these guys hah

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Pulled the trigger on that 300ah lifepo4 battery :dance:

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

So my solar power system thus far:

•3 415w LG Neon2 bifacial solar panels
•3 Victron 100|50 smart solar mppt controllers
•500amp Victron smartshunt
•3000w12v Victron multiplus
•Victron Cerbo
•Victron touch 50
•300 ah LiFePo4 battery

What am I missing?

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Wibla posted:

DC-DC charger from your lead acid start battery, unless you're getting a proper lithium-friendly alternator regulator

Would I need that in addition to the multiplus?

wargames posted:

are you going to be near salt water?

Yes

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

wargames posted:

There's apparently a specific certification you want to keep an eye out for in this case.

"reputable solar panel manufacturers will test their solar panels to ensure that they pass a test known as the IEC 61701 Salt Mist Corrosion Test. Panels that have received this certification have gone through rigorous testing that simulates the effects of salt mist and harsh coastal weather."

It's more for panels getting misted, rather than sprayed, due to being used in coastal locations. But probably the best there is for the purpose.



and mission has this test unsure if your LG does.

https://a1solarstore.com/mission-solar-panel-420w-72-cell-pv-module-mse420sx6w.html

According to the manufacturers spec sheet these are IEC 61701 rated severity 6 so I think theyll be alright. Lots of cats with these now

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

Applebees Appetizer posted:

But I can do this in my shed right?



Depends on your shed

Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

So I got a new dinghy :buddy:



I'm in love with this thing.

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Karma Comedian
Feb 2, 2012

sharkytm posted:

Needs a good scrub, but I love how RIBs handle. They're fun as hell.

She's already been scrubbed white and honestly it's like :aaaaa: looking at it.

I want to upgrade from the four blade prop it's got rn. How do I go about figuring out which propeller is best?

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