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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Elmnt80 posted:

If any of you guys have a mercury outboard made past 1990, where are you getting your parts? I was looking something up for my boss today and I found poo poo for availability through our major suppliers and found nothing past 1990. Almost as if mercury pulled their poo poo in house around that time.

What kind of parts? I can easily get the usual maintenance stuff (water pump, gaskets) from my local dealer for my 92 20hp tiller shift two stroke.

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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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I'd also sea foam it, via the intake. I'm assuming it's a two stroke? Then change the plugs.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Wow, Narrow as hell, must be a joy to sail. That's the problem with a lot of modern boats (of all types). They make them wide to accommodate more people, which makes them slow, un-seakindly, and heavy.

That's one of the secrets to the SeaCraft hull from the 70's... narrow and the VDH make it an incredible sea boat.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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SuperDucky posted:

If its asymmetrical and fast, you're drat right I want her to have a wide transom. (You did say *modern* boats.)

OK, not that modern... I'm talking conventional hulls, none of the crazy asymmetric foil designs. When they're moving, the wetted shape is pretty drat narrow/wetted surface area is low.

I'm talking about Catalina's and the like. Wide, slow, and surge-y.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Kenshin posted:

I skippered another charter with friends this past weekend, this time in the San Juan Islands close to home here in Seattle.



s/v Christelle, a 50' Beneteau Oceanis. We had a comfortable trip with two days of good sailing and then two days of glassy seas with comfortable motoring. Split between 10 people (yes, we fit 10 on the boat fairly comfortably!) it only cost us about $440/person, self-provisioned (and including the cost of provisions and the moorage fee for the night we weren't anchored).

The San Juan's are gorgeous. Nice setup, and a good cruising boat. Got any more pictures?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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CommieGIR posted:

Except the speeds a rotary turns at, in THAT style boat, is more just a recipe for cavitation damage to the prop.

I would expect that there's a transmission in between the motor and the shaft... which could drop the revs to something resembling sanity. I know the big boats I've worked on and run usually have ~2:1 reduction. We're certainly not spinning the 42" wheel at 1800RPM.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Cop Porn Popper posted:

I got to chill on a tugboat for a day and they are loving awesome. They were guiding one of the disney cruise ships into nassau harbor and helping dock a cargo ship onto the other side side of the island to drop off supplies. The way you can feel the power it has through the deck is hard to describe. Its literally like waking up a sleeping beast when they really lay into it. poo poo was awesome.:sun:

A friend of mine owns two tugs. One twin screw Detroit 6-71 powered push boat, and one twin screw with 12v149s... It sure is fun listening to them scream and the boat vibrate from the 1800HP.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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FrozenVent posted:

Voith's aren't that popular these days, you see a lot of Z-Drives or pods.

Yeah, too complicated. Z-drives/azipods are where it's at.
Local boat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqXf7jD-ZoE&t=90s

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Dear God, EoH is the way to go. I towed a 12000 lb boat trailer from MA to basically the entire East Coast. Hydraulic brakes saved my rear end more times than I can count. Electric drums suck.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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monsterzero posted:

I guess. Could just be the Internet pulling my leg.

And why do they call it EOH? Shouldn't it be Hydraulic over Electric since the brake signal is transmitted electronically? HOE brakes, rite?

It makes sense to me... Electric command over hydraulic brakes.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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I found out the bilge pump in my wife's boat isn't working, so I bailed about 200 gallons of water out, removed the pump, and ordered another. Thank goodness for wooden skiffs, it sat about 2" deeper and didn't seem to care.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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bird cooch posted:

twin mercruiser 470s. 170 per engine.

Ouch, hope you don't like going fast or sipping fuel.

Otherwise, she's a perfect family cruiser!

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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bird cooch posted:

I have 2 5 lbs, a 10lb, an old halon system, fuel vapor detector.

I will probably replace the old halon in the engine compartment before too long.

Fire is the most scary thing I can think of on a boat.
Problem: Fire at sea.
Solution: You're surrounded by water.
Problem 2: You're now on fire AND sinking, congrats!

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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1990
SeaRay
:shiver:
I'd suggest doing a lot more reading about liveaboards. The fact that you have to ask about draft between power and sail, and called the keel a dagger board on a 35' boat tells a lot. This isn't a thing to do because it sounds fun and you kinda like boats.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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TrueChaos posted:

This... sounds like you need to share some stories friend.

Head over to the Maritime thread... plenty of stories.

I'm debating taking a 21-day cruise out of Hawaii in October on a 115' boat.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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TrueChaos posted:

What subforum?
A/T
Threadlink, now that I'm not on mobile: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3393222

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Nitrousoxide posted:

This is a good suggestion.

I'm going to take a few sailing classes, work my way up to using bigger boats at the local yacht club, and learn how to use them. Maybe rent a boat for a weekend as well once I can use one safely.

There's a 2-sailing course this weekend, 6 hours a day that I'll probably jump on to learn the basics.

No reason to jump into something like this half cocked.

Good idea. Make friends with some people with boats, and offer to help work on them. You'll learn if you like it or not. Definitely get some sail time in, and spend a few overnights on the boat if you can. Bonus points if you do it in not-ideal weather (hot, cold, windy, rainy, etc). If you move onto a boat, there's no "It's raining, I'll just stay inside" if something is broken or leaking.

I live on Cape Cod, and there's a lot of boats (including liveaboards) around. The people who do it are a different breed, unless they've got $$$$ and are living aboard a 65' powerboat or sportyfish.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Kenshin posted:

My boat agent called me from St Thomas today and told me if I ever buy lottery tickets he wants in



Those two sunken boats survived Irma, did not survive Maria. Mine is fine. :stare:

Good luck with the sale, you dodged a big bullet.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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https://www.panbo.com/search.html?q=Ikommunicate
Ben is my go to for that sort of info... Looks like he's used one, but hasn't said anything recently. Cool idea, though.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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cakesmith handyman posted:

Didn't harbor freights trailers get pulled ( :haw: ) because the tyres were found to be non-DOT-legal? You'd think they'd give the supplier a kicking, raise the price a few bucks and be back on sale a week later with different tyres.

Yep. They were DOT-stamped, but found to be insufficient to carry the rated load.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jan 27, 2018

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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:lol:
Right, they had one.
:lol:

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Elephanthead posted:

So how does one go about learning to be a boat person that can sail around to different islands without dying do you need to be related to a boat person?
Either classes or volunteering to assist someone else who is more knowledgeable. Most sailors/boaters would be willing to show newbies the ropes :lol: . If there's a marina nearby, just stop in and ask, the folks there will probably know who would be receptive. I learned everything I know about boats by working on them and just picking it up as I went. I'm no master mariner, but I can make a boat do what I need, and I know how to navigate safely. There are also basic boating safety classes. For example, you need a license to operate a boat in NY State, and there's a boating safety class that covers the basics. It doesn't cover anything about operating a sailboat, but it'll teach you the basic rules of the road. BoatUS offers a free online class.


Kenshin posted:

Take classes. ASA or BoatUS, if you're in the US.

Usually they aren't terribly expensive, figure $200-400 for the first class depending on your area (assuming there is a place to sail and an ASA or BoatUS school near you)
Yup. Alternately, if there's a sailing group in your area, they're often looking for crew for non-competitive races. It's a great way to learn to sail, because you're on a boat with a bunch of experienced people who can instruct you on what to do and why.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Nerobro posted:

Along with the other advice. Read Chapman's Piloting. That was more or less a right of passage in my family. You were part of the crew when you got your copy. ... I still have mine. My dad has his.

It tells you about many of the non-intuitive dangerous situations. It clears up mysteries. It makes boats "make sense". And it gives you the vocabulary to speak well when talking about boats.
:cripes:
How could I not mention that. I've got 2 copies. One was my wife's grandfather's, and the other is mine.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Put Tef-Gel on the threads of the bolts, and a dab under the washers. It'll stop the galvanic corrosion and keep the SS hardware from galling. I use it for SS and Ti hardware all the time in seawater.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Big Taint posted:

You launching in salt or fresh water? My BMW handled towing my Whaler 15’ but I hated doing it because I didn’t want to give it a salt bath all the time. What I’m saying is get a car you don’t care about if launching in salt.

If you know what you're doing and the ramp doesn't suck, the only part of the vehicle that gets salty is the back wheels.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Big Taint posted:

There are more variables at play. Trailer length is a factor, my trailer is relatively short so a lot of it has to go in. Launching is easier because I can just stick the rear end of the boat in and drive it off the trailer.
True. However, if the ramp were steeper, you wouldn't need to go in so far.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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chrisgt posted:

Since galvanized trailers aren't welded, that piece is likely just bolted on. If the rest of the trailer is in decent condition it might be fairly cheap to have a trailer shop bend you a new one of those. Could buy you a few more years out of the trailer for not much money.

Or do what I do... Buy some galvanized plate or bar or angle/channel, and bolt that poo poo right over the existing structure. I've even welded it, just grind off the galvy, and then use cold galvanizing spray afterwards. Just wear a respirator and ventilate well.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Or the sailboat decided to tack without looking. And no one uses their radios, hell, half of the boats out there don't turn them on. ...And powerboat. The powerboat is likely 90% at fault, but I guarantee the WAFI isn't totally in the clear. I've run commercial vessels and had sailboats turn directly across my bow with no warning, while we had "restricted in ability to maneuver" ball-diamond-ball day shapes up. And plenty of powerboat assholes too.

Be careful out there.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Popete posted:

Yeah normally have full protection on and goggles, but it still finds it's way on to your skin. It's nasty poo poo, difficult to avoid dripping all over you when you're working underneath the boat.

Tyvek.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Welcome to every boat DC panel ever. Also, :lol: at the old German fuses, with exposed fuse wire. It's good that you replaced it. If you put dielectric grease on the fuse legs, they won't weld themselves into the fusebox over time.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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FrozenVent posted:

Since we’re talking electrics, just a reminder to everyone to use MARINE wire; it’s expensive for a reason.

(It’s made of smaller strands to hold up better to vibrations)

Less expensive here: https://www.genuinedealz.com

Same with the heat shrink crimps.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Recreational, no restriction. Feel free to put a 6-71 in and smoke everyone out. Commercial? Loads of restrictions and Tier requirements. Lots of lobstermen around here have taken government assistance to upgrade to newer diesels. Better fuel economy, lower emissions, and safer boats.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Hate to break it to you, but that's a 7.5hp motor, not 75. 75 would rip that tin boat in half.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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:lol:
When I towed our 26' boat, I put no less than six 3" ratchet straps on it. Two on the stem going basically straight down, and 4 midships, 2 going fore and 2 going aft. Like hell I'm getting crunched (or crunching someone else) because of the boat.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Aug 10, 2019

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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That blows. Start soaking the screws with your penetrating oil of choice. You might want to apply some heat to the engine case before trying to remove the stubs.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Neslepaks posted:

You people cannot even begin to comprehend the magnitude of my folly.

You bought a 50's wooden Chris Craft that "needs some work"?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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FrozenVent posted:

As in buy it and hire a crew, or order it from a yard?

Because if you ordered a brand new boat... oh boy.

The cheapest part is buying it.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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I highly doubt the turbo is damaged, so long as you use it regularly, the rust is pretty soft. I'd just clean it out with a wire brush, and maybe think about spraying some oil into there when you winterize. Do the turbine blades have any wear where they're touching the housing?

Barring that, maybe have the housing and elbow ceramic-coated on the inside? I've never heard of it, but maybe it'll help.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Oct 24, 2019

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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Ferremit posted:

Generally the hot side of the turbo is just held on with a V band and can be knocked off and cleaned out. I’d find out how much it would be to get that housing beaded and ceramic coated before replacing the whole turbo if it hasn’t damaged the turbine wheel and it doesn’t have excessive shaft play

Seriously. If the turbine is good and the seals/bearings are good, there's no reason to replace a turbo.

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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

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The Real Amethyst posted:

I was considering getting a RIB as a starter boat for some river/estuary boating.
Did some research, been reading this thread for the past year.
Went to look at the cost of a second hand RIB. 5-7m length. :yikes: €14000
Cheaper badly maintained ones with no engine that requires considerable work €5000-7000

Not sure what else I expected

RIBs hold their value very well, much better than straight FRP hulls. Here in New England, zodiacs are spendy, especially rigids.

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