|
monsterzero posted:Is there a point where (sail)boating goes from cheap and cheerful to hilariously expensive? When you buy one.
|
#
¿
Dec 9, 2016 22:00
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
I'm at about a 50:1 maintenance to sailing ratio.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
Are you guys regularly submerging the tongue of your trailer when launching? Maybe we just have steep ramps around here but that seems like a rare occurrence. Not sure why EOH would be more worrisome than surge from a wiring standpoint, the brake wires don't go to the calipers, just to the pump on the tongue. Factory trailer wiring tends to be woefully lovely anyway and the lights are pretty cheap these days too, so you gotta figure on replacing it every decade at least unless you never go in salt water/are religious about rinsing. gently caress drum brakes forever.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
Those exist?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2017 19:47
|
|
|
drat, they do exist. My previous comment stands: gently caress drum brakes forever. No matter how they're actuated.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2017 16:04
|
|
|
Nice man, let's see some pics! On the Catalina 30 I lived on previously, I replaced the entire sanitation system except the tank. It worked pretty well after that. Recommend using fresh water (from jugs, not plumbed to tank) for flush, even with constant use the raw water stank was pretty fierce. We put a composting head on the SC, an Airhead. Liking it a lot so far. The pee tank fills up pretty quick but it's easy to deal with, and the poo tank is amazingly smell-free. Love not having to worry about all that plumbing. We got a second poo tank with a lid so we can do easy swaps and deal with the cleanup off-site.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 8, 2017 16:38
|
|
|
The inverse bow maximizes waterline length and thus hull speed, and with a fine entry like that helps pierce waves to minimize pounding, which is an issue with these flat-bottomed race boats.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2018 18:21
|
|
|
What boat do you have? Nonskid pattern makes me think it’s a Catalina but not sure what size? https://www.westmarine.com/buy/garelick--latch-type-boarding-ladder--302276?recordNum=6 That’s a good ladder, I prefer ladder being midships at the lifeline gate than at transom.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2018 16:33
|
|
|
Looks like the C22 default is a ladder that swings up on the starboard side of the transom. https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2673_81/c-22-swim-ladder-w-wide-bottom-rung.cfm Is that what you’ve got now? For singlehanding you could get an emergency roll up ladder and tie it to a stanchion base amidships with a deployment line hanging down a bit so you could pull it from the water. The C22 has pretty low freeboard so you may be able to reach up and swing down the transom ladder if it wasn’t tied off, but if there are big waves the transom can be a scary place to be in the water. And that’s usually when you fall off, when it’s lovely. Also, if the C22 is like any other Catalina I’ve sailed, it’ll round right up, unless you’re running with just the jib or something.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2018 16:04
|
|
|
That is true. Don’t fall off the boat.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2018 16:40
|
|
|
Ya aluminum backing plate is fine, as long as you insulate fasteners with Tefgel/Lanocote. You can also prime and paint the aluminum for extra protection. Only put bedding/sealant on the above-deck hardware, if it gets past that you want it to go all the way through so you don’t rot the deck if cored or get crevice corrosion on SS.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2018 20:51
|
|
|
You launching in salt or fresh water? My BMW handled towing my Whaler 15’ but I hated doing it because I didn’t want to give it a salt bath all the time. What I’m saying is get a car you don’t care about if launching in salt.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2018 14:59
|
|
|
There are more variables at play. Trailer length is a factor, my trailer is relatively short so a lot of it has to go in. Launching is easier because I can just stick the rear end of the boat in and drive it off the trailer.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2018 15:22
|
|
|
Ya the ramp curves down as you go out, but I can’t always wait for low tide. I got rid of the BMW wagon and got a big Chevy van, anyway. No more tears when I dunk that thing.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2018 15:39
|
|
|
Old crusty battery cables are a more likely culprit, how do they look? Corroded lugs with weak crimps and no heat shrink, cable that’s very stiff and makes crackly noises when it is flexed are good signs that it’s toast.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2018 02:06
|
|
|
Those are gorgeous, there’s one in SF bay that I see sailing one or two times a year.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2018 21:53
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:I signed the purchase papers for this today. This is scary and I won't get to sail it again until this spring Congrats dude, she’s a beaut.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 20, 2018 02:03
|
|
|
Volvo parts prices are insane. Even parts for their gas engines, which are just Chevy blocks, are jacked up. And if it’s more than 20 years old, everything is discontinued and you’re buying some NOS poo poo that’s 10x the original high as gently caress price. loving Volvos.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2019 23:05
|
|
|
On the plus side, if the core is rotten it probably doesn’t go past that drip channel, so you’re looking at maybe 1 square foot of bad core. Once you get the fitting out you can poke around and see how soft it is. You can also tap with a hard plastic mallet and listen for bad core areas, the mallet will bounce if the core is good and thud where it’s bad. If it doesn’t extend too far from the hole you might be able to get away with just digging out the bad stuff and filling with thickened epoxy. Then I’d use a hole saw to cut a piece of plywood that will fit the hole, put some tape on the underside to hold it in place and fill around it with some neat epoxy. Then I’d sand a bevel around the hole maybe 1/2” (depends on how thick the glass part is) and then lay down layers of glass of decreasing diameter (so biggest on bottom) until it was levelish with the rest of the area. Then bevel and glass on the inside of the hole (overhead sucks, you can put wax paper over it to keep it from dripping all over). Then fair and finish to taste. Or just cover it with the duckboards and be done. If the core is bad in a larger area, you might want to cut the top skin off around the perimeter of the area, dig out and replace the bad core, and then glass over the top. The cockpit sole is a place where you want to do a proper repair because it’s pretty much guaranteed to be wet, and there’s probably a berth under that leak. A quick patch won’t last long, it’s a high traffic area. Plus it sucks when you step down and feel the sole deflect a bunch because the core is dead.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2019 00:47
|
|
|
"I'll knock this over when I'm drat well ready, human." We had our mostly outdoor cat on the boat for a week when we got evacuated for the fires a couple years ago and she did great. The litter box wasn't fun, though.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2019 00:36
|
|
|
That cabin/coaming is different, did he make that? You can tell if the transom is shot by grabbing the bottom of the engine and flexing it up/down as hard as you can; any deflection of the transom is bad. Otherwise there’s not any structural wood that I’m aware of, just some embedded wood for mounting hardware. That motor is probably going to take some effort to get running if it’s at all possible. A new one would run around $10k installed for similar power.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2019 06:05
|
|
|
Ah Rimas the cockroach. It’s a tale of unprecedented incompetence.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2019 16:35
|
|
|
I have a 15’ Whaler with a 70hp Yamaha...it’s fun.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 18, 2019 17:34
|
|
|
Ya I think pulling the prop out of the water would be the big issue, need a jack plate.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2019 17:11
|
|
|
beep-beep car is go posted:Galaxy Brain: or just use a long shaft outboard that people on sailboats sell for cheap. Those tend to be puny.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2019 03:47
|
|
|
Elmnt80 posted:I did this, but during the rainy season in florida when it rains every day. Then didn't think about it for like a month. I did alotta rewiring afterwards. It’s only slightly better than forgetting to put it back in when you launch.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 24, 2019 19:38
|
|
|
I’m not sure if it’s a factory recommendation, but we generally recommend customers replace their mixing elbows every five years on Yanmars. They just like to eat them up, they are impossible to inspect, and the alternative of it fails is worse (like your rusty, maybe soon to be dead turbo). That said, just clean the rust up and run the fucker hard. People nursing their diesels like grandma driving to church are responsible for more 2000-hour rebuilds than the guys who run them at WOT all day.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2019 16:11
|
|
|
Also lamp oil is kerosene. Could it burn diesel, that’s not too different from kerosene?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 10, 2019 21:19
|
|
|
If there’s room you can try easing the bow out and use another line on the starboard stern to angle the transom toward the dock enough to reach it?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2019 23:49
|
|
|
J/105 is a great boat for shorthanding and weekend cruising. I race on one in SF bay, it’s a super active and competitive fleet here.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2020 02:56
|
|
|
LOL ya I throw some shorty jack stands under the Whaler to lift it off the trailer when I paint it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2020 23:05
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:Holy poo poo. Seriously, looked like a direct hit on at least one person that got launched off the starboard boat?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2020 07:58
|
|
|
Looks like the hoses are weeping at the fittings, if the rubber is circa 1990 it’s probably not its best self. You might also look at water dripping from above through the cockpit access hatch.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2020 05:38
|
|
|
lol replace that zinc you cheapass
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2020 14:38
|
|
|
I’d be worried about what’s causing the gelcoat to crack that badly. Looks like it lines up perfectly with the fasteners. Are they through-bolts or tapping screws? What’s on the inside for a backing plate? Is there play in the upper or lower bearings? Is the rudder post still attached to the hull at both ends? Is the rudder stock still straight? These are all questions where I have found the answer was ‘it’s hosed’ and the downsides to losing your rudder under way are rather large. It is worth removing and assessing the whole system, especially if you can’t document the last time it was done. I’m not sure what sort of rudder you have, if it’s a fin or skeg or what, but regardless you should check it out thoroughly. The tiller head looks like chromed bronze to me. That looks like a solid stainless rudder stock, maybe 1-1/2” diameter? I can’t tell if the wider part under the head is a bushing or if there is a step in the stock and it’s actually much thicker under the head? Is rudder post continuous or is there a gap for an autopilot? A hex on the person that put a mild steel spring pin in there.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2020 01:51
|
|
|
TheFluff posted:I'm somewhat concerned as well but I think it's mainly down to no maintenance for a long time. There's only been one previous owner for the last 40 years and while he took good care of many things, he does not seem to have been interested in gelcoat repairs. He explicitly pointed out some very, very old cracks to me at some point with a story of how they got there. Gelcoat cracks when it flexes. However, I’ll bet that they didn’t drill big enough pilot holes and/or didn’t countersink them. Always countersink holes in gelcoat, kids, or it will crack like that. Plus it makes a nice pocket for extra sealant. TheFluff posted:The fasteners are tapping screws. I'm not sure what the backplate is (if there even is any). Here's the best blueprint I have that shows the entire assembly: I’m not sure if your deck is cored or not, but tapping screws into cored decks (and with cracks like that) are not good. Since that part is raised they may have kept the glass solid there, hopefully. If you can get at the bottom of it I’d probably through-bolt if I could, preferably with a backing plate of some kind, not just fender washers like 99% of people do. I’m also not sure if that ring is part of the upper bearing or just a cosmetic cover? It looks like it’s the flange for the shell that Teflon bushing fits into? In which was it’s under load. TheFluff posted:I'm not sure what you mean when you ask if there's play in the bearings or if the rudder post is still attached. I think the rudder post (axis?) is straight but I have no way of verifying. Get under the boat and try to waggle the tip of the rudder around. It shouldn’t move much. Ideally not at all. Things that can cause movement are worn bearings/bushings or separation of rudder post from hull. The post is the tube from deck to hull that the rudder stock passes through. Usually it’s glassed to the hull at the top and bottom. That joint can fail. That is bad. Much more likely is the Teflon bushings are worn, and if the bottom is worn more that the top, it’s a big lever putting force on that top bearing and making those cracks get worse over time. I don’t see any cracks around the raised part of the deck where it’s mounted which is good. TheFluff posted:I could ask the previous owner if it's ever been disassembled but I sort of doubt it. I’m curious to know what’s holding the rudder in then, probably won’t be able to tell until the tiller head is off. It’s going to install up from the bottom so there can’t be any wider flange on top of the stock holding it. Often the tiller head is in fact the thing that holds it up; when you’re in the water the rudder is (normally) buoyant so it’s not dragging on the bearing much vertically. On roller bearings with an inner race sometimes that is pinned to the stock to hold it up. Make sure there’s something supporting the rudder before you remove that spring pin, it’s not impossible that it’s keeping the rudder in the boat.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2020 00:57
|
|
|
Interesting setup. Looks like that’s the Teflon bushing sticking out of the deck flange on the upper bearing, and it has a notch in it that acts as the tiller stop? So the tiller head probably rides on the bottom of the cutout spot when the rudder is hanging? The stainless rudder post is kind of crazy, I can’t say I’m a big fan of it. Glassing stainless is an invitation for crevice corrosion. The rusty color where the post is glassed into to hull makes me cringe.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2020 18:28
|
|
|
Boat jargon is hard, even when you're a native speaker. I never would have guessed you weren't American, honestly; I would guess a majority of people would struggle to explain what a flange is. For me, the confusing bit is remembering the difference between the rudder post and stock - the rudder post is the tube through the hull. The rudder stock is the vertical shaft of the rudder that passes through the post. I have labeled the blueprint to help me try to describe what I think is happening in there. I'm still trying to puzzle out how this thing is supposed to work. Part number 1 is the deck fitting. What I thought was the top of the bushing sticking out is just part of the bronze casting, it's all one piece. Makes more sense, if the rudder was banging into the bushing at either end the bushing would just spin. So the 'deck fitting' consists of the pipe that goes below deck (I'm going to guess based on the picture that it sticks down below maybe 6"?). The wide bit with the holes that attaches to the deck is the flange. And above the flange is that ring with the gap that acts as the rudder stops. Below that things get murky. Part three makes sense, that's the lower bearing. It's where you expect it to be, at the bottom of the hull where the rudder is inserted. The dark part of the drawing is the Teflon bearing. What isn't obvious is where the lower bearing ends and that stainless post begins. Which also makes me wonder if they are separate pieces at all? It's possible that the lower bearing and the stainless rudder post and the upper bearing are all one piece, with the Teflon bushings pressed into either end. You can see flanges on the bushings on either end to keep them from drifting up or down the post. The post is glassed-in at the bottom, but what is happening at the top? The upper bearing can't really just be floating on the end of the rudder post, with just a rubber hose to secure it to the deck? And judging by the hose placement and bulging, it appears that the top of that stainless post is only an inch or so into the bottom of the hose, with that seems like a full foot gap from there to the bottom of the deck fitting? Unless they shoved the hose waaay down over the post and the top of it is much higher, that seems really short? The upper bearing needs to be at or very near to the deck, I'm having a hard time believing it's just floating on the end of the rudder post somewhere between the hull and deck? The drawing suggests that there is very little or no gap between the bottom of the deck fitting (part 1) and the top of the rudder post (part 2), which would make sense because if the faces of the two were touching, that would give the top the rudder post some stability. But the gap looks much larger in reality. As it is, I have to think that the rudder stock is bearing on that deck fitting and not the top of the rudder post. If the load was on the top of the rudder post, which is attached only at the bottom and only with fiberglass tabbing, the loads would crack that thing loose in short order. The rudder stock is probably just bearing on the bronze. Bronze is pretty soft and slick, so that can work for a while. Eventually, the bronze will wear too much, and you'll have to sleeve the thing somehow or have a new one made. I hope that there isn't a bushing at the top of that rudder post as the drawing suggests. If the upper or lower bearings do wear, and the stock can move enough to load the top of that post, that would be bad. I'll be curious to know what's really happening inside that hose. And this means that the rudder is probably just held in by the clamping of the tiller head and that spring pin. Is there a jack stand under the rudder? Have you tried to lower it and see if it goes down? Big Taint fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 5, 2020 |
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 02:02
|
|
|
Neslepaks posted:So many words about so small a project It’s quite the puzzler, I’m really curious to know how it works.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2020 22:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 13:53 |
|
|
By decreasing LOA: Santa Cruz 50 (52’) Catalina 30 (30’) Boston Whaler 15 SS Ltd (15’) Flying Junior (14’) Ocean Tandem kayak (12’) SUP (12’) RC sailboat (3’) 138 feet of watercraft.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2020 20:36
|
|