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Tommychu posted:Erm, actually I was just about to correct myself on that. Z31s had T5s (WCT5 in the case of the Turbo models) Pretty sure no Nissan had a wct5, just a regular t5. NA cars got Nissan's own transmission. Also, unless you're in heavy equipment or big trucks, first gear has pretty universally been synchronized since the late 60s early 70s. Driving rwd cars in the snow is a lot of fun, but for an inexperienced driving, it can be quite stressful. And with all the traffic in Chicago, the hills, the small streets, I really wouldn't recommend it. You could be a champion snow/ice racecar driver, but you're still on the road with Joe "I can't drive worth poo poo" next to you. Engine braking puts a lot of unnecessary strain on your transmission. Like everyone keeps stating, don't put it in first while moving. I never down shift unless I'm turning or coming off the freeway. I down shift into 2nd for most 90degree turns BEFORE the actual corner (already on the brakes, already going under ~25mph). If coming up to a stop, keep it in whatever gear you're in until about 1.5k RPM, then clutch in and shift to neutral. The only time I might down shift one or two gears is if you're going fast enough to be in 5th. You're not supposed to coast to a stop out of gear or clutched in. Are you sure your car is a factory turbo car? Engine looks like a non-turbo model. Someone may have added a turbo system to it, in which case I hope it's been tuned.
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Nov 24, 2014 17:38
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He's talking about the blow off valve. It looks like a cheap eBay knock off.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:36
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The knock offs work fine until the diaphragm rips, and then it's usually cheaper to just buy another bov. I'm surprised it runs well, they usually bog on shifts with a vented bov. It's a Freddy knockoff, so the flange interchanges with quite a few different manufactures. On the subject of tools, download the FSM, and buy the mechanics tools set at harbor freight. It goes on sale for like $150 and has everything you need but the wrenches. Buy the $20 (when on sale) wrench set that goes from like 8mm-30?mm. Do NOT get the polished ones. I think they are tumble polished and end up loose, which then ends up stripping bolts/nuts. Nissan likes using 21mm and bigger on a lot of parts.
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Nov 26, 2014 01:57
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Raluek posted:It is entirely likely that the alternator and water pump both run on the same belt. Pretty sure that's how it works here too.
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Dec 2, 2014 04:19
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Is the distributor in the front of the motor like the old L series? If so, check the connection to the bottom of the distributor. Maybe it got knocked loose when changing the belt. If you spray a little ether into it and it starts, my guess would be fuel pump/wiring.
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Dec 6, 2014 02:25
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36psi with engine off or vacuum reference disconnected, ~29psi with vacuum line on, 36psi at wot and 1:1 increase per psi of boost.
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Dec 6, 2014 09:05
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Everyone stop loving sperging and take some time to read. 1) the car doesn't overheat 1a) it has twin eBay fans activated by a switch 2) the car does in fact have a working heater 3) the car overheated once due to flinging an alt belt 4) the car may or may not have a parasitic battery drain OP, ask for this for Christmas: http://m.harborfreight.com/professional-301-piece-mechanics-tool-kit-45951.html (It's $150 with a coupon currently) mafoose fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 06:25
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Viggen posted:That is a pretty lovely set, even being Harbor Freight. It has virtually no usable wrenches, and they added a ton of their $5 for twice-as-many-as-here screwdrivers. OP would probably do better picking up the sockets, wrenches, and pliers separately. You buy the cheap wrenches separately (and don't get the polished ones, get the metric ones that go from 8mm to 32ish). This was my junkyard set for years, I've pulled many engines, transmissions, etc with it throughout the years. For someone with no tools this is a great starter set. Plus these screw drivers are their snap on knock offs. I've only broken one of them compared to countless ones of the others they sell. This set has enough random tools in it that it doesn't matter if he's working on a Datsun, Chevy, or VW, it'll have almost everything needed, regardless of vintage.
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Dec 19, 2014 09:42
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That is a sharp looking car. Quite a few issues from what I can see. First, the car is still running the factory efi. There is a few issues with this, the open to atmosphere bov would cause running issues, especially on a clutch in. Second, the AFM is just passed a bend, which can cause turbulence and as such, poor running. Also the filter is right behind the fans, further causing turbulence. Look up z32 flower pot mod. The z32 had a huge issue with turbulent flow at the maf when cone filters are added, causing all sorts of weird running issues. There is also an alarming amount of chinesium parts on it. The "nitrous" brand gauges are harbor freight/eBay, the fuel pressure regulator is also an eBay unit. Stock z31 turbos are not very fast, I'm pretty sure this is an NA-T car, since all the gauges have been replaced and the top plate on the engine isn't the right one. The turbo clutches can also hold a pretty decent amount of power, this is probably running the stock NA clutch. These cars done right are very quick. The biggest issues I have with this car is the fueling. If it is not running the turbo efi and upgraded injectors, the motor is not long for this world. Hell, I would hope it has been chipped or nistuned for reliabilities sake, but the cost to do that easily eclipses the cost of all those Chinese parts. In all honesty OP, sell the car. You are multiple levels outside your capabilities. If that's not an option, it is time for a beater and a lot of time doing research and unfucking the cheap PO's doing. That weird thing on the core support with the cheap looking metal bracket is a thermostatic relay. It is sold at parts stores but shouldn't be used for directly powering OEM fans due to crap current capacity. It has probably burnt out which is why you have to use the switch to control it. I prefer the Hayden 3647 ( I think that's the number) as it has a replaceable automotive relay on it. Also sold at all parts stores. mafoose fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Dec 21, 2014 |
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Dec 21, 2014 02:40
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Korwen posted:Jack Stands and a wheel chock. Never get under the car with just a jack holding it up. That is what jack stands are for. The HF Racing jack is great, spend some time in the tools thread here on AI and you will find a lot of useful tools and ways to spend money. I'm partial to the HF racing jack with the two wheels up from. The one with the steam roller front seems quite unstable when I used it. If you plan on going ahead with this car, keep in mind that $5k will not do much if you're going to pay a shop to work on it (if a shop even agrees to work on it). $5k will go drat far if you're doing the work yourself and do things right (or else end up doing them twice). The fact that it is still running means you have a decent base, it's just so much easier to learn when you're doing the mods yourself, not dealing with someone's half done project. Good luck to you.
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Dec 21, 2014 06:10
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The VG30e takes turbo charging fairly well. The compression ratio is still low compared to modern standards. It's all in the tune though....
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Dec 21, 2014 18:10
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slidebite posted:Unless something drastically changed since I had a Z31, those ECUs couldn't really be "chipped" and the aftermarket electronic go-fast goodies that were made for it were minimal, if any. My vote is on megasquirt especially if this is an NA-T setup with an vented to air BOV.
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Dec 24, 2014 18:07
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It will cost way more in parts to remove the turbo and return it to stock. Either keep the drat thing and start doing some actual research on the EFI system, or just cut your loving losses. Everyone, stop crying about "compression ratio is going to danger to manifold your engine." Times have changed, and with it, new technology and tuning theories. Stock 80s turbo cars with their low comp engines were that way because we didn't know any better. Nowadays, a high comp turbo setup is fairly common, and if done right, a beautiful thing. I tuned a 10.2:1 CR Volvo to run 24psi. I've worked on and tuned a 10.5:1 b16 Honda running 10psi. High comp turbos are awesome when it comes to off throttle response, transient response, and make great street cars. That's why I keep saying you need to check what you are running. Is it the stock efi? Turbo efi? Chipped box? Nistune? What injectors?
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Dec 25, 2014 06:07
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Motronic posted:I haven't seen anyone saying that. There has been a bunch of posts about how he should return it to stock (remove the turbo bits). I'm pretty sure the part numbers on the ecu are different between turbo and non-turbo models. Similarly the injectors should have parts numbers cast into the plastic upper part with part numbers as well. Googling that will tell you make and model they're from, or flow rates if they're aftermarket. If it has a nistune, it'll either have a connection to tune it, or if you remove the top cover, you'll see a daughter board. The reason it has idle issues is likely from the bov venting metered air, or being slightly open at idle.
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Dec 26, 2014 03:41
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These cars should have tensioners. It's probably like the 280zx one where you loosen the center bolt on the pulley and then loosen the long bolt behind it on the bracket for slack, then tighten the long bolt to achieve tension, and then tighten the center pulley bolt again to lock it in place.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:32
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This isn't stock, but you can see the belt isn't a v belt, but the alternator does have a tensioner bolt: http://z31performance.com/showthread.php?15864-How-To-Installing-a-2005-Nissan-Titan-150-amp-Alternator The one I was thinking of is used for the A/C belt. Serpentine belts need the alignment to be right on or they will just pop off. Check to see if anything is wobbling once you get a new belt on there.
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Jan 12, 2015 10:51
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Holy poo poo, I read it in the guy's voice from the commercial! (It's a z32 300zx TT commercial that you should check out if you haven't)
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Jan 16, 2015 10:10
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Raluek posted:Yeah, his point was that it seems pointless to half-rear end turbo an NA car, when you could sell it and buy an actual turbo one for probably less money and it would actually work correctly. NA-T cars usually put down more power than their none turbo counterparts at equal boost levels (if tuned correctly). This is especially true on early turbo engines with god awful low CR.
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Jan 17, 2015 09:37
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Safety Dance posted:New negative battery terminal. Is there no cable going to the block? You need to have a cable going from the block to the battery. On the older Nissans, it went from one of the starter holes (that hold the starter to the block/bell housing) and then to the battery.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:01
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Fucknag posted:Says who? If the engine's bonded to the frame properly, it should ground just fine through the one wire. But it isn't, because it is likely going through the motor mount as old Zs didn't have ground straps at the motor. Even Volvo OEM cables go to the starter bolt, AND have a ground strap from the firewall to the valve cover.
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Jan 20, 2015 05:36
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Is the rust really such a problem? I mean the chance of writing off the car in a Instead of taking a $1500+ hit on it, he should learn to wrench on it since he already has it.
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Jan 23, 2015 23:53
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