|
Sperglord Firecock posted:I don't know how to drive manual. Other than that, don't ride the clutch (keeping foot pressure on it when not needing to depress it) or use too much throttle with it still partially depressed, that's what burns them out faster. Also, you can make life easier for yourself by talking yourself through it and being deliberate. Then as you get the feel for it, you'll get smoother at balancing the transition (so there's no jerks between clutch in/out and throttle inputs), and learning how to do things like blip the throttle on downshifts to match engine and gearbox rpm and so on. It'll come. Give it time.
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2014 23:37
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:The parking brake also doesn't work, which means in order to park it effectively I either need to have something behind the wheels to stop it from rolling away, or leave it in first gear, which to my understanding, is something that you should not do.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2014 23:42
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:It's got a REALLY stiff ride. You feel just about every single bump, and it bumps on you pretty hard.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2014 00:27
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:this thing drives lightyears better than my last car.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
Have you driven a RWD car before?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2014 00:36
|
|
|
Oooh boy. Simple answer? Find a snowy, very empty parking lot, and experiment. It's not easy to simply express the technique in a short post, so all I can suggest is youtube videos, and practice in a controlled environment.Sperglord Firecock posted:When shifting from gear into neutral, I assume I use the clutch to stop the transmission from dropping out of my car and onto the pavement. Sperglord Firecock posted:In other news, I appreciate everyone's patience with my dumb questions. I really am not a very gearheaded mechanically inclined person, and I figured the best way to accomplish this is by jumping in headfirst and just figuring it out by slamming my head against it until it works.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2014 00:49
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Will that cost more than a beater? Depends how hardcore you are about hunting down cheap crappy cars, really. If you buy a RWD beater, you can write it off (in both senses) as a training aid.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2014 16:21
|
|
|
Sorry, yeah, you can't really ask a mechanic that, unless you know them personally. What you need is an experienced and well-equipped AI goon nearby who can talk you through stuff.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2014 22:00
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:all of them It's easy enough to spot, as it will be way thicker than any of the other general wiring in there.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2014 00:54
|
|
|
I use a small Ctek battery conditioner on older batteries myself, and I've found it can often rescue borderline ones that I've let get low, or at least get me a little more time out of them.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2014 18:37
|
|
|
I really do think that replacing the main battery and earthing cables/terminals would be a rather good idea. These "randomly ceasing to function, occasionally dead battery" symptoms definitely point to poor connections of some kind from where I'm sitting.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2014 18:23
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Go to a large dealership in your area with cash (especially if they run those WE WILL TAKE ANY TRADE!!!1 ads), ask if they have anything on their trade in lot. Chances are, there will be an entire row of poo poo cars that aren't good enough to put out that they just want to dump. I got an 8 year old Mustang with 42k miles on it for $125 ($200 OTD with all the paperwork done) like this when I was in college.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2014 17:42
|
|
|
If this were a war movie, right about now is where you tell us you can't wait to finish your tour, so you can go home to marry the sweetest gal in Illinois and start up a restaurant selling down-home cooking, just like your pappy.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2014 19:50
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:Having a Speedometer is kind of a necessary thing.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2014 21:25
|
|
|
Adiabatic posted:TAKE PICTURES OF YOUR drat ENGINE BAY ALREADY THIS IS LIKE THE AI SLOW MOTION THREAD Just give us nice, focused shots of stuff so we can help you diagnose this poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 20, 2014 18:27
|
|
|
Ok, for your clutch control, the problem you've got is that you're moving your leg in just one continous motion, and not feeling for the biting point at all. Here's what to do to practice. Some of this is a repeat, but I'm still going to type it. Go to a nice, big, empty parking lot. Make sure the car is in neutral and start it up. With the engine idling, assuming it is holding idle (from what Southside Saint posted, it may not be), keep your foot off the throttle. Completely. Do not touch the throttle. (If the engine refuses to hold idle, well, that needs fixing, but for the time being, replace the above line with holding it at ~1000rpm unloaded, and leaning your right foot into the transmission tunnel to prevent you adding or removing throttle input, just hold the pedal stationary. This doesn't necessarily mean hold it at 1000rpm as we progress for the next steps, just artificially hold the engine at whatever the lowest speed it will sit unloaded without stalling is) Make sure the handbrake is off. Put the clutch pedal all the way in. Aim to have the pedal depressed by the ball of your left foot, not the middle/arch of it, and with your foot something approaching en pointe, your heel resting on the mat. Select first gear. Pivot your left foot slowly back on the heel, so you're very slowly bringing the clutch pedal up. At some point, the engine revs will start to dip slightly, the car will begin to try and move, and you may feel a slight vibration through the clutch pedal. This is the biting point, where it engages drive to the transmission. Feel exactly where your left foot and clutch pedal are, relative to the clutch being all the way in or out, and how much movement you've really made with your foot. Seriously, I know you want to, don't add any throttle input. Continue to slowly bring the pedal up. You may find that the amount of travel is such that pivoting your foot on the heel isn't going to work, so you're fine to move your entire foot/lower leg, just keep the motion slow and controlled until the clutch pedal is all the way out. The car will be rolling along at a walking pace now. The revs will have stabilised. Put the clutch pedal all the way back in. No need to do it slowly, just push it down. Take the shifter out of first, and into second. To feel it, make it a deliberate, three-stage motion. And out of first. And there is neutral. And into second. Now, just as before, let the clutch up slowly. Can you remember where the biting point is? Were you right? Did the feel match what you remembered, the revs dip a little in the right spot? Good, carry on, clutch slowly out until it's fully out, and the car is rolling itself along slightly faster now it's in second. Repeat up through the gears if you can (it should be able to idle in fifth on the flat, if introduced to the idea gently). Each time, concentrate on correlating where you think the biting point is to where it actually starts taking up drive. Turn around and do it again. Eventually, you'll know where in the motion of your left foot the bite is, and not suffer the lurching/kangaroo routine from a stop. If you shoot, it's maybe similar to knowing where the release point is on a trigger, and having the feel for releasing back just past it after a shot, rather than all the way. It's different for different cars, but the basic idea of what you're feeling for is the same.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2014 17:29
|
|
|
The IRL cool dudes forum *flicks good advice at u*.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:honestly believe that their ratty Honda Civic "COULD TOTALLY BEAT THAT CLASSIC MUSTANG IN A DRAG BRO, RACEU FO PINKU SURIPU".
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2014 02:40
|
|
|
My understanding is that the lower compression of the turbo motor compared to the NA is from dished pistons rather than flat ones, so an endoscope camera would let you see down through a plug hole and check that out? Also, wouldn't a factory turbo car have the word "Turbo" moulded into the rear panel above the number plate? I can't imagine that's something people would swap unless they were swapping everything.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2014 19:05
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:we're gonna work on wrenching off the turbo, and hopefully I'll learn some neat stuff while I'm there.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2014 22:49
|
|
|
One of the problems is that WD40 is marketed and sold with such statements as "WD-40® protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything." People using it incorrectly is no worse than the circlejerk you get from people (including several in AI) about materials like titanium and inconel, even though they're only advantageous in certain circumstances. I can't be too harsh on someone thinking they're meant to use WD-40 as a lubricating oil when, if you go to a hardware or car parts store and ask for a spray-can of such, it's probably what they'd give you. Of course, if you continue to use it as such after being told, yeah, that's a different matter.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2015 14:32
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:I could have sworn they used to claim "lubricates", but I can't back that up, but they may have changed that line to what the modern can says "stops squeaks", and that's still implying lubrication in my view. WD-40 posted:Known as "the can with thousands of uses," WD-40 protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything. WD-40 posted:WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts. They also have a load of videos showing how it can be used to lubricate things. So yeah, it's hard to blame people for thinking it's meant to do the job when they really push it on the marketing.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2015 15:59
|
|
|
If it's below freezing outside, when you topped up the coolant, did you use a coolant with antifreeze in it, as opposed to plain water? Because this is really, really important.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 20:36
|
|
|
Sperglord Firecock posted:YES! I DID! This is also one reason why you should draing and refill the cooling system every few years, so it has good stuff in there, it can degrade over time. In terms of tools, a halfway decent socket set and a cheapo multimeter will get you a hell of a long way with car repair. I'd suggest a set of good screwdrivers, a worklight, and some spanners to bolster that. And obviously a BFH. Astonishing Wang posted:I've circled a few things that make your situations different:
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 21:06
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_if8-CkTZE
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 22:49
|
|
|
For pulley alignment, I normally just use a straight edge like a metal ruler across them, it's generally pretty easy to see a problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 23:13
|
|
|
If it isn't aligned, my order of probablilities would be that the bracket holding it on is badly fitted, or not right for the car, or the alternator itself is incorrect, or one of the pulleys is incorrect. Someone having put it on with a bracket bent or in the wrong place or washers placed where they shouldn't be, something like that, is the most likely reason for it. If it's only out by a few millimetres, I suspect loosening everything off, tapping it back into position, and retightening it (after checking all the fasteners are present) will sort it out. Don't forget it must be aligned right on both the top and bottom run the belt makes - if it's mounted on an angle, it could well be aligned correctly when you look at it on top, but be off on the bottom run.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2015 23:38
|
|
|
Is it not bringing on a warning light on the dash for the charging/voltage? Or did these originally have a gauge, which some helpful PO has removed?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2015 21:06
|
|
|
How long ago was that? Batteries won't hold a charge forever, especially in the cold.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2015 21:09
|
|
|
I don't think you understand, that is quite capable of being the root cause of every electrical issue you have had or will have with the car, and is amongst the easiest car repair jobs going. You really should do it. I really don't want to be one of the people bagging on you for stuff, but God drat.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2015 21:35
|
|
|
So I'm having this dream. I've broken a Turbo Z. And these goons are trying to assist me. So they send some diagnostic advice. But they can't get through to me. So they send some parts. But they can't get through to me. So they send some tools. But they can't get through to me. So they send someone over to help. But they can't get through to me. And then. Just as it looks like they might be about to get through to me. My. Wilful. Ignorance. Kicks. In.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2015 08:59
|
|
|
CHITTYBAR posted:Ignorant. Not all Z31's came factory turbo. His car clearly came NA and was backyarded to turbo, there is a big difference.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2015 09:29
|
|
|
My experience of most cars is that they'll try to keep the (expensive) alternator a common component, and vary the (cheap) brackets and mounts to make it fit different things.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
Ruh-roh, Raggy.  Edit: Sperglord Firecock posted:there's a guy down the street at Steak & Shake that might give me a solid $4000, maybe $4500 for it, InitialDave fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jan 23, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2015 00:11
|
|
|
I don't understand why people are anti-E30? They're good cars, pretty easy to work on, and well supported. What's the issue?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2015 21:20
|
|
|
Would an S13 that clean hang around that long?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2015 22:53
|
|
|
Leave Initial D out of it dammit.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2015 10:52
|
|
|
track day bro! posted:I prefer Wangan Midnight Well, um, I guess, if you're happy...
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2015 19:55
|
|
|
Bear in mind, we've told him repeatedly of ways to help learn how to get the feel for the clutch, and all for nothing.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2015 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 10, 2024 18:46 |
|
|
Eh, you can't blame SF for not seeing the rust his PO didn't tell him about, and then moan about him not telling his buyer when they didn't spot it. Right or wrong on either side, you have to be consistent.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2015 01:23
|
|