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   So I bought a thing. It goes fast. I don't know how to drive manual. I'm trying to learn. Weep for my transmission. More pics and/or questions answered soon! Edit: More pics. fishception fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 22:52
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Adiabatic posted:YES YES YES YES YES YES I don't, unfortunately. I used to live out in Norfolk when I was in the Navy, but as evidenced by my beard and uncompromising lack of bearing, I'm not in the Navy now.
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Nov 22, 2014 23:17
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:Yesssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss. This is adequate compensation for getting blueballed on the Trans Am. There are a FEW issues with it. There's a small spot of rust on the underside of the car. It's a spot that is easily reachable, ground off, sanded down, no big thing. The parking brake also doesn't work, which means in order to park it effectively I either need to have something behind the wheels to stop it from rolling away, or leave it in first gear, which to my understanding, is something that you should not do. Also, the guy who helped me out in driving it back from Indianapolis said that it shifted a bit weird, but I halfway suspect that he wasn't shifting it entirely correctly. He was, however, likely shifting better than what I'm doing at the moment. If there are any Chicago Goons that like driving manuals that want to drive it and/or help me learn how to drive it, I am more than willing to do Goon meetup, because I want to go fast. :<
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Nov 22, 2014 23:38
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SouthsideSaint posted:I live near Ohare. I can help you learn stick as I learned on a Nissan hardbody. I also work at a local shop with a bunch of old dudes who know a little. Sure. Hit me up in PMs, I'm up for meeting whenever (since I have no job right now :<).
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Nov 23, 2014 00:03
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I'm up in Lake County by the border if you ever get this far north. Hit me up and we'll go gently caress around. I don't know poo poo about 80's Nissans, but I've got tools if you need them. Tools would be nice, but unfortunately, about the only thing I know how to fix are Colt-Pielstick Naval Diesel Engines. Which are three times the size of the car that I own.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:14
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SouthsideSaint posted:Well good for you I work on piece of shits all the time. And helped a dude in high school with that same car. It had no struts causing an almost lowrider ability which was fun in the class to play with but made for a lovely ride home. About that.... It's got a REALLY stiff ride. You feel just about every single bump, and it bumps on you pretty hard.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:23
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In other news, I have an idea that might be catastrophically stupid, but the worst case scenario is that it ends up looking silly and can be removed. Because it's bright cherry red and I like silly anime references, I want to put a Gold Zeon Logo Vinyl Decal on the hood, and call it by the nickname "The Red Comet". Because everyone knows that painting something red means it is 3x faster than the average Za... I mean, Z-car.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:How is the spare tire well and rear metal around the tail lights? Clean, surprisingly so.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:29
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SouthsideSaint posted:InitialDave speaks the truth. Even more so if the car was purchased in Chicago. When I come to help you learn stick I can also give it a once over for you. Im really good at dealing with lovely Chicago tuned suspensions. I actually bought it in Indianapolis. Friend of mine drove it back 3 hours, so it is certainly mechanically reliable.
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Nov 23, 2014 00:30
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SouthsideSaint posted:The three hour ride does confirm it is driveable. But coming from Indianapolis is worse then Chicago in my opinion. More good things about the car I failed to mention: The Engine/Turbo/Clutch was completely built about 5k miles ago. The guy who drove it last only drove it for fun on the weekends, and sold it because he wants the second generation and not the first generation because he thinks lovely fast and the furious looks are better than the CLASSIC LINES OF THE Z31. How anyone could not like flip-up headlights is beyond me.
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Nov 23, 2014 01:15
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:To be fair, I think I like the Z32 interior better. Yes. Yes it is. The interior is ripped up and ugly. But it doesn't have to have a nice interior. A car is meant to have fun driving, not be super comfy in it.
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Nov 23, 2014 01:32
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leica posted:Hope you have adjustable shocks because that poo poo gets old in a DD. If you don't have them I would get them. I honestly don't know if it's the shocks or the springs, or really what it is. It might be an easily rectifiable thing.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:22
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Viggen posted:I heartily endorse Nissan Thunderchicken. In order to be appropriately Engrish, it needs to be the Nissan Fight! Blazing Cock X!
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Nov 23, 2014 03:50
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Terrible Robot posted:License plate: GNRLTSO That brings up a valid point: What should I have for the vanity plate? If you can have punctuation, I was thinking maybe GETOUT!.
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Nov 23, 2014 03:56
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Viggen posted:STHROGN i don't get it
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Nov 23, 2014 04:05
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Viggen posted:It probably has to do that I was watching Undeclared earlier and your pic reminded me of Seth Rogan. now i get it. TBH, I don't even know where to begin. The most mechanical experience I actually have is, as I stated, working on massive Naval vessel engines that put out a hilarious 364,000 torque, and are diesel, and you can probably fit inside one of the pistons if you wanted to, and by working on, I mean more like acting as a parts gopher and cleaning up the almost daily massive oil leaks we had, both fuel and lubricating. I wouldn't even know where to begin on vacuum lines, and I really am not even aware of what vacuum lines are.
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Nov 23, 2014 04:43
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Minkee posted:Also watch out for when the fuel line pops under the hood and gets on top of that manifold. About the only visual bits I really wanna add to mine are louvers on the back windows and vanity plates. I'm (mostly) joking about the decal on the hood. Other than that, however, all of the go fast bits. All of them forever.
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Nov 23, 2014 05:06
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Cage posted:What is goin on with the stripes on your shirt? It's a lovely mexican hoodie. And my dad has a terrible camera on his phone. Yes, I'm living in my parent's basement for the moment, after returning from the Navy.
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Nov 23, 2014 14:25
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Adiabatic posted:Thread title justified. Preeeeetty much, yeah. Everyone I know was like, "You should not get this car. This is a terrible decision." And I ignored them. Not regretting it so far! Just got a nice car wash, interior clean, and waxing done at the detail shop across the street from me. They ended up giving me a few extra things just because it's apparently a cool as poo poo car to them. Learning manual progress is getting easier, less thunking and anger whenever I shift into first. Might try taking it onto the highway later on. Haven't dealt with stop-and-go traffic yet.
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Nov 23, 2014 17:40
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Viggen posted:Find a good manual- hopefully with hose and electrical routing schematics and stock up while you can still get to the store and back. I can actually walk to the nearest auto parts store, so that's really not an issue.
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Nov 23, 2014 17:45
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CroatianAlzheimers posted:I feel like this explains so much. When you have had someone telling you to do responsible things and following every order and command given to you for four years, I dare you to not want to go out and buy a fast car and make bad decisions.
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Nov 23, 2014 17:46
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Terrible Robot posted:You know not to try putting it into first until you're completely stopped, right? Well, yeah? I mean, you shouldn't shift into first gear while you're coasting with the clutch pushed in all the way and beginning to go to a stop? Is that what you mean? TheLarson posted:Nice! I'm glad you ended up finding something you like. Mine isn't a shitbox, thank you very much. IT IS A PERFORMANCE DRIVING MACHINE that I may have bought for only $4.5k. >.> Seriously, this thing drives lightyears better than my last car. fishception fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 21:43
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Your 1st gear synchros will thank me.
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2000 Saturn SL1. When your car starts stalling near the top of a hill in Kentucky and your foot is depressed all the way down on the gas pedal, you start re-thinking the life choices that led you to this car.
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Nov 23, 2014 21:50
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Terrible Robot posted:Pretty much, yeah. If you're below, say, 3mph or something it's probably ok, but generally it's better to just leave it in neutral with the clutch out until you're read to start moving again. ..... I've been doing that. I'll stop doing that. I just thought that as long as the clutch is in, it's in neutral, so it doesn't matter if you move the knob to first.
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Nov 23, 2014 22:51
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I apologize for the double post, but this is a pertinent question that may come up in the next few days: How the hell am I supposed to drive this thing in snow. I understand the correct answer is "Don't.", before anyone says it, but that might not really be an option. Thread title relevant once again. fishception fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Nov 24, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 23:56
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To be honest? The turbo only really kicks in at about 4kish RPM, so I haven't even gotten the chance to see, as I've been shifting up at about 2000-3000. Please tell me if I am doing this wrong. As I know nothing (literally nothing) about turbos, or boost, or etc, I really can't answer your question, unless you tell me how to check, which will shortly become very difficult as it is scheduled to snow tomorrow. Snow + Turbo Activation = Crash.
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Nov 24, 2014 00:10
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leica posted:This is going to end in tears. I'm trying, really really hard, to not have it end in tears, if I can. After all, I love this car a lot. It's my baby. :<
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Nov 24, 2014 00:32
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InitialDave posted:Have you driven a RWD car before? NOPE. Tommychu posted:I'll try to avoid rehashing my entire disjointed transmission lubrication spiel from the stupid question thread a couple weeks ago, but you always want your countershaft spinning when the wheels are turning. Since first is unsynchronized, neutral with the clutch up is the best way to achieve this when you're nearing a full stop, until you get to the point of learning how to to double-clutch (don't worry about double clutching for now, wait until you've mastered all the other stuff). Okay, so essentially, when I want to come to a stop, I should disengage whatever gear my car is in and change it to neutral. When shifting from gear into neutral, I assume I use the clutch to stop the transmission from dropping out of my car and onto the pavement. - In other news, I appreciate everyone's patience with my dumb questions. I really am not a very gearheaded mechanically inclined person, and I figured the best way to accomplish this is by jumping in headfirst and just figuring it out by slamming my head against it until it works. Edit: Again, Thread Title. fishception fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Nov 24, 2014 |
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Nov 24, 2014 00:39
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Tommychu posted:This only applies to the point where you're at the bottom of 2nd and would otherwise be going into 1st. If you're going faster than that and slowing down then you should be downshifting as you go because that will always deliver sufficient oil to the mainshaft. Exception being a surprise yellow light/panic stop, in which case you just hammer the clutch and do what you gotta do to not hit poo poo. Okay. I've been going from 3rd Gear to holding down clutch and coasting to red lights, then shifting to neutral when I stop at red lights. I probably need to stop doing that too. About Yellow lights though, I just take yellow lights usually as an invitation to go faster, especially since I don't have any plates on the car and I can't technically get any plates until Tuesday thanks to the marvel that is the Illinois DMV.
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Nov 24, 2014 00:56
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On the plus side, apparently there is a VERY good Japanese Import part guy nearby who can pretty much get me anything I desire in terms of parts for my car. To sum up what my experience is coming into this: I know nothing about gas engines. I know a very minor bit about diesel engines. I know nothing about turbos. I know a bit about electrical systems, since that was my job in the Navy. I have driven RWD for about two days. I have driven Manual for about two days. My last two cars were automatic sedans that had nowhere near the power the Nissan does. The only thing I have going for me is that all of the major running components on my car work, the engine/clutch/turbo were completely rebuilt about 5k miles ago, and so are effectively brand new parts, and I have enthusiasm! 
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Nov 24, 2014 01:09
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revmoo posted:I'm predicting this thread ends up as a feel good coming-of-age story. Ironically, I'm 24, so I should already be "coming of age". I still feel like a dumb kid. Something tells me I'll be 50 and still feeling like a dumb kid, just with more aches and pains.
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Nov 24, 2014 01:34
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ACH-138 posted:You really shouldn't drive it in the snow, ever. It's gonna handle like balls and if they salt the roads at all then that car will disintegrate in rapid time. For the salt, I plan on getting an undercarriage wash every week, if that counts for something.
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Nov 24, 2014 01:58
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Tommychu posted:Erm, actually I was just about to correct myself on that. Z31s had T5s (WCT5 in the case of the Turbo models) which did have a synchro'd first gear. Every time I do 1st gear right now is with drama. I am not very good at getting into 1st gear.
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Nov 24, 2014 02:03
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Mat_Drinks posted:It's possible that this car will teach you, through pain and heartache, to hate Nissan. I'm not really okay with ruining this car. I'd like to keep it around and make sure it remains ticking for a while to come. Hence why I'm trying to ask for advice, feed it good gas, get car washes, get good oil, try and avoid getting it rusted out like crazy, and other sundry such actions to ensure it won't die horribly. I DID ask about salt a bit earlier, asking if getting the undercarriage sprayed during the car wash would be enough to stop/minimize the effects of the salt, and no one really had an answer for me.
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Nov 24, 2014 06:49
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HotCanadianChick posted:This plus the fact that you say you know nothing about gas engines or turbos and haven't spent the past two months you were searching Craigslist doing some reading up and learning yourself up on how gas engines and turbos work (seriously there's plenty of learning resources online) and are planning on winter driving a nice older car known for it's propensity to disintegrate into rust at the first hint of water makes me think that this thread will end in tragedy, the only question being whether it will end somewhere on the sockington rust scale or in the mechanical failures thread. Okay, lemme correct this. I know generally how a gas engine and a turbo are SUPPOSED to work. Gas goes into the compression chamber, air is let in too to allow for combustion, piston goes up, spark plug combusts it, driving piston back down, causing power, you get the idea. Turbochargers work by taking the exhaust and using that to drive a fan and through the magic of fan stuff it pumps more air into the combustion chamber, making the combustion more pwoerful. Edit: If any of you do have some good rust prevention tips that also involve not having it sit in a garage the entire winter (because I do need to go places), I'm willing to hear it. In addition, I MIGHT pick up a winter beater just to drive around. fishception fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Nov 24, 2014 |
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Nov 24, 2014 08:49
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some texas redneck posted:Lesson 1 with first - never ever shift into it unless the car is at a stop or just barely moving. It really doesn't grind when going into first. When I do it right, it's downright silky smooth. Tastes great, less filling. When I do it wrong, the car rocks around like a tilt-a-whirl. So grinding on reverse or 1st really isn't much of a big deal. I have no idea how bad it is for the engine parts on the Z31, but again, the stuff that needed replacing has been replaced pretty recently, and done so by a guy that seemingly knew what he was doing. So when I do have to do stuff with it, at least everything else won't be horribly broken in the process.
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Nov 24, 2014 13:50
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:From what I found on Tire Rack, it looks like you can get snows for this thing for around $90 per corner. I'd suggest finding some steel wheels and getting some tires if you're really going to drive this thing this winter. You will be incredibly frustrated and ulcer-ridden come March if you don't. There's a salvage yard up north here with an 84 and an 88 300zx if there are any little pieces that you need or what. It's also not a bad opportunity to just get in there and see how poo poo's put together. Yeah, I'm still torn on whether I wanna get a beater or try braving it. My main concern is sliding out and my brand new baby wraps itself around a light pole. I'll probably be fine, since I'm 24 and thus made of invincibility.  But I don't want my car dead. :<
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Nov 24, 2014 15:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sacrificial winter beater is the thing I would recommend. If you're absolutely insistent, Krown undercoating or similar usually helps out if you can get it professionally applied by a good shop. You'll want to get that reapplied every year, and it makes the underside of the car mucky and gross to work on, but it's better than rust. Will that cost more than a beater? Edit: Factoring in insurance and the like, mind you. Since insurance being mandatory is a thing in Illinois.
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Nov 24, 2014 16:17
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InitialDave posted:Depends how hardcore you are about hunting down cheap crappy cars, really. The only issue is, again, mandatory insurance, which can result in a pretty hefty fine if I don't have insurance and I get into a crash. And if I do get insurance, that's an extra 300 for 6 months of insurance for it. That's not a good thing.
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Nov 24, 2014 16:24
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 22:24 |
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mafoose posted:Pretty sure no Nissan had a wct5, just a regular t5. NA cars got Nissan's own transmission. Also, unless you're in heavy equipment or big trucks, first gear has pretty universally been synchronized since the late 60s early 70s. Thankfully, I stopped doing a lot of those bad habits because people told me it was bad. So there's that! I got a car cover over the car, because I want to save my baby from the snow. :< I have no idea if it is a factory turbo car. It probably is not, since, as I stated, the engine/clutch/turbo were rebuilt completely about 5k miles ago.
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Nov 24, 2014 18:01
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