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Is it cranking over at normal speed? It still might be an electrical issue, after all you just had no belt for the alternator for a while. Just seems weird to move on from electrical to suspecting fuel or something... Co-incidences happen, but with an unknown battery, electrics and a known terrible battery wiring, I'd still be looking there, unless the motor is cranking over at the full RPM it should be and (edit) it's easy to test it for spark as well. Do people still use hydrometers to check batteries? I used to use them ages ago when I had carbed cars, maybe use that and check if the battery is healthy enough to not suffer from low voltage while cranking as it's going to need to be good while the wiring is bad. Also can't rule out charging/jumping shenanigans, if you stuffed that up, you could have fried something in your ECU. I hope you got a good charger and charged it while disconnected from your (lovely) battery terminals. I couldn't drive my 2004 model ute yesterday anyway due to a flat battery to had to go through the same thing  I know there's not much risk with charging or jumping that, but older EFI cars were more susceptible to being damaged by jump starts or connecting chargers straight up to them. (Dunno, I went from carbs to haltech, missing the lovely EFI decades, and only owned post 1997 modern efi cars) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 15:46
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Fine, but don't kill the car. I said before you had a chance of killing the ECU and you got lucky IMO. Don't use the car until you can fix it.
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Dec 12, 2014 18:58
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Viggen posted:Sperg, tell me your next car will be an early 80s SAAB 900 Turbo. Hoping for 1990s euro, with biodegradable wiring looms.
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Dec 20, 2014 20:02
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I'd still find out if it is a turbo z31 engine/car. If it is a NA motor with no work done to it, I'd sell. There's a difference in fixing a car that is more stock/original and dealing with age/wear related problems, compared to 'unfixing' a car full off crap, ebay parts PO problems etc
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Dec 21, 2014 08:23
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I'm far less worried about destroying the clutch ever since I started driving it better, so less worries there. I thought other AI-er's have said the clutch slips and feels 'off'? That's not driver error BTW, it's either a worn clutch, bad adjustment*, or a leaking rear main oil seal putting oil into the clutch. *You have said the clutch friction point is way near the top of pedal travel IIRC, so could be just adjustment needed or can be done (don't remember/know the set up on these cars personally).
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Dec 24, 2014 09:38
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Sperglord Firecock posted:TBH, my troubleshooting method with this car when there are multiple things that could go wrong is going to be look at the easiest to fix option first... Better to do it right the first time, in order of what is going to cause the most expensive damage if it's broken/not right first up. Do not repair based on whatever is the easiest/cheapest job to do. Do it right based on importance (or sell it). I'm not sure about the clutch as I said, but plenty of people here seem to know this model better than me, listen to them. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:17 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 11:14
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I'm not objecting, whether you get with the program and fix it, or sell it, both the same to me. Do one or the other, don't piss fart around ignoring issues. But when I said fix in order of importance you commented "something is seriously broke the gently caress up". That wasn't what I meant, I meant preventative fixes before things get broke the gently caress up. Old cars can be expensive, they can be more expensive if you have to do things the wrong way, long way, twice etc. I can only advise generally as I have never had a z31 (but worked on other nissans and owned a couple of datsuns as well as mazdas and fords). Listen to people here that are familiar with the z31 and do things in the order they say.
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Dec 24, 2014 11:44
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Sperglord Firecock posted:It's not a factory turbo. I didn't read that before and that changes everything, in that you paid too much and you should definitely sell it. But I'll never say that again, and I'l stop being negative from now on. I know where you're coming from because when I was 19 I bought an RX3 for $1400, had no tools and knew nothing about cars as well. And that's a car I was diving into the deep end with because I knew no one who knew about rotaries, or even cars in general, and no internet existed for me back then. Similar to the above suggestion I bought a 1300cc 808 for $300 for learning on, spare panels etc, and drove that around mainly, while figuring out the RX3 and panel work (the RX3 was a beat up stock standard 12A automatic, fair bit of rust and couple of dents. Long term plan was 13B extend port and weber, with 5sp manual.) The 1300cc 808 was a piece of crap all over, mechanically and bodywise too, and I found a mint 808 1600cc for $900. Learnt to rebuild a motor on that 1600, heads, chucked on a 32/36 weber, tuning and all that crap. Stripped the 1300cc 808 of panels, interior and glass for spares and dumped the shell. Drove the 1600cc 808 while doing the 13B and 5spd on the RX3, and getting it painted in 2pac and the rest is history, (another 808 for more spares, a $1300 RX4 coupe, and a $700 929 coupe for spares, bridgeports, extend port turbos, etc) So been there, done that, started off with no tools and knowledge as well (no gurus or helpful dad or whatever), but doing it that way was an expensive education, lots of work paid to rotomotion. I'd do it all again because these cars are worth stupid money now, but wouldn't do it with a car that's not worth much and had PO problems. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Dec 24, 2014 |
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Dec 24, 2014 19:59
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Astonishing Wang posted:I hope this means something similar to what I think it means. Can you post a photo of the paint?  I'm into cars not rap, so always known the paint as OG 2pac and the rapper as tupac.No photo unless you supply a time machine, it was rough bodywork done by teenage me so has since been rubbed back with proper weld in rust repairs started (but never finished)
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Dec 24, 2014 20:21
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Yeah, that's pretty normal. Increases RPM when the ac is on or you're wrenching on power steering (which loads up the engine and may cause stalling otherwise). It's the emissions control solenoids and any vacuum lines that can cause problems however.
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Dec 25, 2014 21:59
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I could have sworn they used to claim "lubricates", but I can't back that up, but they may have changed that line to what the modern can says "stops squeaks", and that's still implying lubrication in my view. It's lovely of them but yeah, everyone should know by now it does not lubricate. In fact all around it's a terrible product, when using it on seized bolt, if they didn't snap, your socket or spanner sure got hot by friction but the time it was removed. At least rp7 smelled better. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 3, 2015 |
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Jan 3, 2015 15:45
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Beautiful.
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Jan 16, 2015 09:56
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Buy a truck, like one mentioned earlier. Simple to work on, and hey if you feel like a project car later on, you can tow a car trailer or chuck engines in the back. If you have the room for more than one vehicle, it should always be truck/ute first, then project cars after.
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Jan 24, 2015 18:18
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SperginMcBadposter posted:What the gently caress is wrong with you? You all need to stop acting like babies or like you never saw this coming.
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Jan 25, 2015 18:08
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Remove carpet, tekscrew in some checkerplate.
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Feb 12, 2015 17:36
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meatpimp posted:The problem is not necessarily with the rail he posted the picture of. Rust damage that severe in one area goes hand-in-hand with rust damage in other areas, most probably areas even harder to get to/see, but again, still structural. Rust is something that is just not worth chasing. Once a car starts to rust, it never stops unless you do a comprehensive restoration, which is almost never worth the time/effort/expense. It can be worth fixing, if you are experienced in repairs or have the aptitude for it; or the car is worth more than 4k in dollars or sentimental reasons. No conditions have been met though. E: in short: is this a special car worth paying $5k on? Or are you uncleskin, kev barlas or moecow? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 17:59
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