Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Sperglord Firecock posted:

Learning manual progress is getting easier, less thunking and anger whenever I shift into first. Might try taking it onto the highway later on. Haven't dealt with stop-and-go traffic yet.

Lesson 1 with first - never ever shift into it unless the car is at a stop or just barely moving.

If it doesn't have a synchro (in reality, the synchro is probably just worn out, but I don't know Z cars), come to a stop, shift into any other gear (2nd would be easiest), then shift into 1st. Shifting into a synchronized gear at a stop will stop the spinny parts inside the transmission, and make it possible to get into 1st without grinding.

You may find that reverse may not have a synchro as well. Same deal, shift into a gear with a synchro before shifting into reverse if you want to avoid a grind.

Later on, you'll learn to rev match, which will allow you to shift into 1st with the car moving with either no grinding or a tiny grind. It's a very good skill to have in case your clutch cable/hydraulics ever take a poo poo.

SperginMcBadposter posted:

Is this true for most transmissions? I may have been unintentionally beating on mine if it is. :ohdear:

No. You would know if it wasn't. Instead of slipping into 1st, it would go GRIIIIIIIIIIIND and you'd have to force it.

You still shouldn't shift into 1st above about 5 mph.

Mat_Drinks posted:

It's possible that this car will teach you, through pain and heartache, to hate Nissan.

This too. Nissan does make one hell of a fun car to drive, but they use gallons of KY to get the engine into place. And put parts that might need replacing less than once a year in drat near impossible to reach places. For example, to replace the power steering pump on my 99 Altima, I would have had to remove the intake manifold and 2 engine mounts. PCV valve? Unbolt power steering pump, lean it out of the way, do it all by feel (or remove the intake manifold). The knock sensor was also supposedly equally difficult (I think it's a 4-6 hour job if you go by the book), but I found a way to do it from under the car by leaving a super bright light on top of the intake manifold and looking/feeling around. Took 15 minutes. It helps that I have long and skinny arms.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:27 on Nov 24, 2014

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Out of all of these, only the Accord is an interference engine. And at those prices, I can guarantee none of them have had the timing belts changed recently.

Pull the shock tower covers off in the rear hatch of the Escort. See rust? Run away. Don't see rust? You're probably okay. They generally rust the worst around the rear shock towers, and eventually let the rear shocks punch through and say "hello" to your interior.

The Miata would be a lot of fun, but it's so light, and also RWD, that I don't think it would do so well in snow without dedicated snow tires.

A 94 Accord for $1k just scares me. It's an interference engine, with a timing belt interval of every 90k/7 years. At that price, I bet it's on the original belt, so you can expect to spend at least $500 right off the bat (or $1000+ if the belt breaks on the way home)

  • Locked thread