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Hooray, another Volvo update! Love your car, man. I was curious how much capacity you lost with the cuts in the oil pan, but with it still being 6 quarts, uh... I think you're good. I'm actually looking at that same Aeromotive setup for the Nova once the LQ swap starts happening. They also have a 200lph setup and a dual 340lph setup as well, depending on how much power you're planning to make.
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Nov 25, 2015 14:57
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LloydDobler posted:Other than that, I did procure an M90 transmission out of the UK which hasn't arrived yet, but that makes me very happy. Pretty sure that was the last one  Good to see an update though, have you checked the pan for flatness against a glass plate or have you measured it somehow?
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Nov 25, 2015 15:46
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LloydDobler posted:A guy over on turbobricks also has found the perfect fuel pump system that is designed to convert old cars to modern high pressure delivery and return, with a baffle built in and everything. So that should be taken care of outside of filtering and lines. And it's designed to bolt in to old school fuel tanks. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688 I've used that Aeromotive stealth setup, and it's very good. Keep in mind, however, that you need a flat spot on the top of the tank, and if the tank currently touches the bottom of the body, it will need to be spaced down by about 7/8" to clear the little "hat" on top and the fuel lines. There's one in my '66 Dodge, and it's been good. That said, on my next project I plan to use the stock pickup / sender assembly, attach a walbro in-tank pump and use the Holley hydramat (http://www.summitracing.com/ga/search/brand/holley/product-line/holley-hydramat-fuel-pickups?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5).
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Nov 25, 2015 17:28
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Excellent to see another update! I've been wondering what's going on and glad to see you're still making some progress. Sometimes I forget about this thread and then constantly stumble across it and it always brings a smile to my face 
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Nov 25, 2015 19:51
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Cakefool posted:Pretty sure that was the last one There's another one for sale right now on turbobricks that has sat there for a month with only some nibbles. I have access to machine shop tools so yeah I measured it with an indicator. It's basically .040 high in the middle, and it bolts down tight with minimal effort when I put it on the bottom of the block. I still might skim cut it if I'm bored enough because I have a second one that I'd like to sell, and I don't know if I could if it's not flat. If I'm going to set up one, it's really easy to set up the other and do it again. jhcain posted:I've used that Aeromotive stealth setup, and it's very good. Keep in mind, however, that you need a flat spot on the top of the tank, and if the tank currently touches the bottom of the body, it will need to be spaced down by about 7/8" to clear the little "hat" on top and the fuel lines. There's one in my '66 Dodge, and it's been good. That said, on my next project I plan to use the stock pickup / sender assembly, attach a walbro in-tank pump and use the Holley hydramat (http://www.summitracing.com/ga/search/brand/holley/product-line/holley-hydramat-fuel-pickups?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5). Fortunately the guy on TB already installed it in his 122 and it works great. On the Volvo the tank drops in to the trunk and forms the trunk floor, so you just have a bump in the carpet where this thing is. And they have a super thick foam gasket that allows you to mount it to a ribbed tank as long as you're strategic with the holes. The Volvo tank is not a great design, any failure in the level sender gasket or filler neck allows gas to seep in to your trunk which fills the whole car with gas fumes. I haven't committed to it yet, thanks for the input - it's always nice to have more options.
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Nov 26, 2015 19:37
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Always good to see an update
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Nov 27, 2015 04:03
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Had a hard time deciding whether to post an update, because I'll have another one in a couple days I think. But I have some cool pictures worth sharing so what the hell. Waterjet parts!  Throttle body flange, I made the hole the same size as the gasket, assuming that the larger 3" throttle body is that size. (It's definitely not 3", I think that's the tube size.)  Manifold flange, pretty much perfect.  Exhaust manifold to turbo flange, I got two of these to make my up-pipe.  I didn't design it this way, but the tubing I've chosen for the up-pipe actually fits right in to the hole and wedges in place. It'll need a little porting.  Downpipe flange, I messed up and forgot to enlarge the holes after using the measurements from stud to stud to locate the holes. The hole locations are perfect and it almost fits, I'll just have to chase it with a slightly larger drill.  Driver's side motor mount flange, all the bolt holes and clearances fit! I made it extra large just because, once everything's finished I may just cut the rear half of it off.  I'll need a 6mm spacer for the upper bolts, I'll either use purchased spacers (like washers) or buy some 6mm strip and drill it. Either way, easy fix.  I added this chunk of material to attach my alternator mount. I figured I'd roll it in with the same part to increase the overall strength and save on part count. I'll still have to adapt something though, once I buy my alternator.  On the passenger side, there were two machined bosses that weren't tapped. But the hole that was cast in to them was the exact size of the predrill. So I tapped them as is. Mmmm.. precision.  Fresh threads!  And again, all locations are right.  I made this side extra huge because all the different generations of this motor have different bolt patterns on this side. Case in point:  Ah. This lower engine girdle is from a '94, my engine is a '98, and I have a 2000 motor sitting on a pallet at my old job and its holes are completely different as well. I doubt I'll use this engine forever, as newer ones have updated internals that I'll need if I want to make more power. So all this extra material will allow me to just drill more holes and use it depending on what engine I bolt it to. Starting with one new hole right away, as I'll be using this girdle to fixture for the engine mount welds.  Cutting it a little close on the turbo drain, I might have to knock the corner off this plate for clearance if I tap this hole for a threaded fitting or anything. I probably will tap it because that makes it easier to use flexible line on the oil return.  So there we go, tomorrow I'm going to drop the engine back in the car and play with fits and dial in the final location, and nail down the up-pipe design, while playing with the throttle body to see if I can make progress there. Then on Friday I'll go to my old job to use their machine shop, where I hope to do final fly-cut on the oil pan for flatness, and machine recesses in the turbo flanges. They all have a shallow depression to sort of help seal them from exhaust leaks I guess. Can't really think of any other reason they'd be in there. Plus I can chase the mounting holes using a proper setup rather than trying to do it by hand. Stainless is not fun to drill. Oh and I would have had cool pictures of my transmission to show you but it got hung up in customs, Fedex failed to notify us what the problem was, sat on the boxes, and when we called they said the paperwork got lost. So the shipper re-sent the paperwork but instead of communicating anything, they shipped them back to England with no more than a "gently caress you". Fortunately it appears that my seller has bullied a free re-shipment out of them so I should have the unicorn transmission in my hands soon.
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Dec 10, 2015 09:44
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Didn't actually go out into the garage like I wanted on thursday but I did do my machining today. I started by machining my extra oil pan, I somehow didn't realize it was less warped than the one I decided to use. I only had to take .030" off the middle, with just a few thousandths cleanup passes on the rest of the pan. I figured out a decent way to fixture it, I bought these little machine jacks and just put them on the flat bolt hole faces, there were many to choose from on both ends. Crank them up and down with a dial indicator and I had all 4 corners zeroed in perfectly in about 10 minutes. And the ends of the pan are thick/tall enough that clamping in the center like I did didn't deflect the surface down at all. Also there was no twist to speak of in the pan, so I didn't have to worry that I was twisting it with the fixturing.  Unfortunately, fly cutting it really shakes the pan and rings out throughout the shop, so I had to limit the depth to under .005" per pass to get good finish and not annoy the people I used to work with. So while it was easy work, it was very time consuming. Four hours later:  Then I used the lathe to put clearances in my exhaust flanges, and chase out the holes. They all mate up to their respective parts perfectly now.  Because of how time consuming it was to mill the oil pan, and given that mine is only warped about .040 in the middle, I think I'll skip machining it for now. I mean, on the one hand it's warped, but with a single bolt hand tight, it flexes back into place. So with the anaerobic gasket I have a hard time believing it won't seal. Although I just did some searching and I can get a 1.5" endmill for about $35 so maybe that's the answer for next time. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Dec 12, 2015 |
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Dec 12, 2015 07:26
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Fly cutting is the sketchiest thing. Whenever I see videos of it or witness it in person it's incredible that it works at all. The entire time I'm convinced we're just temporarily getting away with our hubris before the universe catches up to it and doles out our rightful punishment. Then you've got guys who tempt fate with Harbour Freight tooling.
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Dec 12, 2015 07:36
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So tonight a 3 month saga of shipping and idiot fedex decisions comes to a close. Behold! The irreplaceable M90! With starter adapter  And a few peripherals.  They basically lost the paperwork, and instead of calling either myself or the seller, they just sent it back to the UK and tried to bill us for the trip. Fortunately the seller was having none of it and eventually persuaded them to ship it to me again on their dime. But it was hairy for a while, we didn't know if they'd budge or not. I wish I'd have asked for the whole driveshaft but it's not a dealbreaker, at some point I'll just junkyard up a rear driveshaft half from another 9 series. I'll have to shorten or lengthen them to custom specs anyway. This week was too cold to get out into the garage, we got about 8 inches of snow on tuesday and then it just sat around at 20 degrees. Today was nice but I was busy with other stuff, and this weekend is booked. I'll get around to doing some more real work at some point next week.
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Dec 19, 2015 07:31
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When you shorten or lengthen, do you just do circular welds? Or do you notch the joined interfaces?
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Dec 19, 2015 07:47
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In my case I'll hire a driveline shop which has dedicated jigs for shortening and lengthening, they do circular welds and also dynamically balance the parts when they're done. I could try to cut it nice and square myself, and have my friend weld it back up, but the odds of getting a vibration are pretty high which would require me to take it to a driveline shop anyway, so I'm just going to skip that step and go right to the finish line.
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Dec 19, 2015 08:54
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Neat -- do they cut / grind bits of metal out to get the balance right? I assume, like a crank and firing pattern, that there's multiple vibration modes that they have to address?
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Dec 19, 2015 18:48
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My stock driveshaft has small steel squares spot welded onto it in seemingly random places, which is a sort of factory balancing. So I guess they do that. GIS turned up some pics on this page Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Dec 19, 2015 |
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Dec 19, 2015 20:50
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kimbo305 posted:Neat -- do they cut / grind bits of metal out to get the balance right? I assume, like a crank and firing pattern, that there's multiple vibration modes that they have to address?  There are, and on some cars they also need to address crazy-high driveshaft RPM; think Toronado or other rear-transaxle cars like the Porsche 944. If you have one of those cars you need to make sure to find a driveshaft shop that will actually balance up to a certain RPM; most will only do 2000 rpm or so at most.Depending on the type and construction of the shaft there are a lot of tactics they can use, and some really kickass machines to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImXbZ8P0VEQ
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Dec 19, 2015 22:03
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Ewww, flycutting. I guess that little mill (and corresponding R8 spindle) couldn't handle a nice fat shell mill. I've seen plenty of really nice flycut surfaces though, they just take a lot of time due to DOC limits, unless you have a good rigid setup (which yours wasn't). Congrats on getting it done, though, and even bigger congrats on landing the gearbox in one piece and in this country.
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Dec 20, 2015 05:22
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sharkytm posted:Ewww, flycutting. I guess that little mill (and corresponding R8 spindle) couldn't handle a nice fat shell mill. I've seen plenty of really nice flycut surfaces though, they just take a lot of time due to DOC limits, unless you have a good rigid setup (which yours wasn't). Congrats on getting it done, though, and even bigger congrats on landing the gearbox in one piece and in this country. You're right about all this, and even worse, any advanced tooling comes out of my own pocket because it's just a proto shop at a company that doesn't even fab its own equipment. So no shell mills or any good tools of any kind, really. I was waiting to update this thread until I got some actual welding done on the intake and exhaust but my welding buddy has been very busy and I won't get anything done for a few more weeks anyway. Also I've been really unmotivated due to my unemployment. You'd think it'd be the opposite, right? Except everywhere I turn I feel like I need to spend some money to make progress. There are like 3 things I can do without spending money, but it all seems pointless because when I'm done I hit the wall of needing to spend the money. Anyway, it's just a hangup and I've still made some slow progress. Also there are some job prospects on the horizon, we'll see. First I bolted the pan back on and put the motor back in to verify clearances. So far so good:    Then I used some of this perforated strip material that I had laying around to fixture my turbo flange. It's surprisingly easy to manipulate while being more than rigid enough to hold it where I want it.  Up-pipe clearances look good, I'll need a little more than a 45 down here though.  Here the turbo hotside is resting about an inch forward of its actual position so I can clear the studs in it, but otherwise its relation to the head is correct.  Looks about right  And the cold side just hanging in space, rotated about where I want it, should be just about perfect with room to grow into a slightly larger turbo if I ever get the lust for more.  I also obtained a 3 inch throttle body from the 6 cylinder motor. I should have grabbed this when I stripped a motor last year. I may not like this as the goal is to increase throttle response. With such a light car I may have trouble feathering the throttle. Also 3 inch intake tubing may not really fit in my engine bay. But I have it if I want it, and it's a direct swap with the smaller one.  I was correct in assuming the gasket hole size was the bore size.  I bought a tight radius elbow:  Then I cut it down to be even tighter. I tried to get a picture mounted on the motor but I cant' hold all the pieces with one hand and work the camera. I'm still up in the air on the orientation of this so I'm going to tack it together to try a few things before making any final decisions.  I also obtained the illustrious R manifold (on delayed payment from a friend) but ironically I've been hearing that it changes the way the engine sounds compared to the older manifolds. So right when I get one all of a sudden people are talking that this is a less popular manifold to use. So now I'm thinking I'd rather use the older manifold, I absolutely love the growl I get out of my C70, and the manifold it has is known to flow well and make more than enough power. Of course in the long run I'm going to have a custom tubular manifold so really it's kind of irrelevant.  Those are the updates for now, I'm going to fly to Oregon and visit my dad next week. He finally sold his shop so he's bored and has some cash, and since I have nothing better to do he's paying for me to come out and hang. He needs some help clearing the last of the car parts and old nostalgia out of his basement. He's thinking of remodeling it into student housing for the local college, for some extra income. I mean, it's like 1800 square feet of space that he really doesn't need anymore. If he can turn it into revenue then it'll give him retirement income so he won't have to dip in to the nest egg.
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Feb 13, 2016 13:37
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LloydDobler posted:I also obtained the illustrious R manifold (on delayed payment from a friend) but ironically I've been hearing that it changes the way the engine sounds compared to the older manifolds. So right when I get one all of a sudden people are talking that this is a less popular manifold to use. So now I'm thinking I'd rather use the older manifold, I absolutely love the growl I get out of my C70, and the manifold it has is known to flow well and make more than enough power. Of course in the long run I'm going to have a custom tubular manifold so really it's kind of irrelevant. I'd imagine the turbo and exhaust make a lot bigger difference than the manifold for sound. From your pics it looks like you're making some sort of adapter from the manifold to the turbo anyway temporarily?
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Feb 15, 2016 19:14
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Let me know if there's any cool tools he wants to get rid of! (Where in Oregon?)
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Feb 15, 2016 21:20
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Glad to see an update, this is one of my favorite projects in AI right now. If you do decide that you don't want the R manifold I'd be happy to give it a loving home.
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Feb 15, 2016 21:39
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use the R manifold bru
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Feb 15, 2016 23:03
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Larrymer posted:I'd imagine the turbo and exhaust make a lot bigger difference than the manifold for sound. From your pics it looks like you're making some sort of adapter from the manifold to the turbo anyway temporarily? Right, exactly. the poi posted:use the R manifold bru Hehe okay. Not even joking, I'm this easy to sway. Hey what's the status on your 122? the spyder posted:Let me know if there's any cool tools he wants to get rid of! (Where in Oregon?) Out in Newberg, SW of Portland. The tools are mostly gone, I'll be making ads for about 10 sets of Volvo and Miata wheels and some 16V heads, and a couple motors.
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Feb 16, 2016 17:39
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My Uncle worked/s for the Austins (A-Dec/ The Allison Hotel) and lives in Newberg. I'm about a 25 minute drive, let me know if you want to grab a bite to eat or check out the shop.
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Feb 16, 2016 18:46
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LloydDobler posted:Out in Newberg, SW of Portland. The tools are mostly gone, I'll be making ads for about 10 sets of Volvo and Miata wheels and some 16V heads, and a couple motors. I could use a set of wheels for my spec miata. I'd rather not have my hoosiers on it when it's sitting. I'm near seattle so I could drive down there.
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Feb 17, 2016 03:09
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the spyder posted:My Uncle worked/s for the Austins (A-Dec/ The Allison Hotel) and lives in Newberg. I'm about a 25 minute drive, let me know if you want to grab a bite to eat or check out the shop. Sorry I missed this post, I woulda taken you up on it. Do threads still archive after 90 days? Looks like I can reply to threads older than this one. Well just to be safe I'll do a mini update. I've been waiting a month for my welder friend to have time to help me, this is starting to suck. But a while ago I got my intake adapter tacked together, I'll finalize it after I get an alternator installed and the idle control motor laid out. Trimmed it a little more for extra angle:  Clears the PCV box enough:  Should be able to get a hose out without hitting the steering box, I might have to trim the corner of the manifold itself though:  And plenty of room for a throttle linkage. I have a plan for that already.  I've also moved forward without the welded stuff, this is ready to chop out so I can start making room for the bigger transmission, I had to buy a new sawzall though. I really hope when I'm done there's room for the gas pedal between the tunnel and brake pedal. I've heard others have had problems with that.  The up-pipe is ready to weld, so as soon as my welding buddy frees up a few hours I'll post that too. After that will be the engine mounts.
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May 7, 2016 07:05
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Up pipe welding done! I left some large gaps to fill unfortunately so the welds aren't pristine but it's good enough for the girls that I go out with!  Good fender clearance, a little tight but that lip with the notch can be trimmed back another 1/4" or so.   Redrilled the CHRA for re-clocking to the new orientation.  Crap, bent one of the fins on the compressor wheel. I thought I was careful but it's been kind of tossed around my workbench for about a year now.  I'm going to have to get creative with the oil drain, it pretty much hits the flange now.  Boom. Pretty close to final mounting position.   It's a little crooked which puts the cold side closer to the head than I like, I think I'll drill out the up pipe holes so it can be straighter and maybe allow the cold side to rotate a little more.  Hot flange is pretty close to the intake tube here, have to research how much heat silicone can take, might have to figure out some heat shielding. Another reason to rotate it just a little more.  But it's a good position for the outlet, straight at the intercooler between the intake and the lower radiator hose. I'm really pretty excited at how well this is laying out.   Doesn't really leave much room for an air filter but I can go into the fender well if I really need to. Next, cut the floor to get clearance for the transmission, then pull things out and drop the crossmember for motor mount fabrication. While the car is apart, I'll start working on turbo oil and cooling lines, and cooling pipes in general. Once the motor is situated well, I'll lay waste to my credit card and buy the radiator/fans/intercooler core, all of which I have picked out. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:28 on May 11, 2016 |
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May 11, 2016 07:11
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That turbo is pretty heavy in that orientation so I'd build some structural braces that support its weight. Even just a steel strap from one of the turbo studs to an accessory hole or a valve cover lift location would probably keep the manifold from cracking.
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May 11, 2016 19:46
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Oh yeah, I had that planned and he didn't have any flat bar or small tubing for us to make braces out of, so I decided to take it as is and test fit it. I'll just get some brace stock with my next material purchase. As long as we're reviewing my up-pipe, my welder pointed out that the tubing is huge, and the exhaust will expand, cool, and slow down between the manifold and the turbo. He said I should have gone one or two sizes smaller. It sounds logical but I don't know what the drawback/penalty will be, if any. In the long run this pipe cost me about $50 and a half hour of lathe time so I could do it over if there's some major problem. Somehow at the near-stock power levels I'm going to run, I don't think it will be a significant problem, and I should spend any redesign energy I have on a complete custom manifold, which I've already started. I also spent some time laying out the cooling assembly and I just barely have enough room to fit the parts I've selected. I'll have to install the intercooler with the grilles removed. Fortunately they screw on from the outside.
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May 14, 2016 09:54
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How big is the tubing?
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May 14, 2016 12:58
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It's 2" schedule 40, so 2.047" ID. I picked it because the opening on the manifold is about that big where all 5 tubes converge, and in the turbo it's about that big but necks down almost immediately into the compressor. I doubt it matters except maybe adding a tiny bit of lag or lower peak HP or something.
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May 15, 2016 07:39
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WRXs have 2” uppipes so it should be fine given you have a larger engine, although I'll defer to someone like Jamal on this. My understanding is that you should try to match the input of the turbo eventually.
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May 15, 2016 16:40
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Still unemployed, doing some low budget things to the car to pass the time. I've also been doing a bunch of routine maintenance on my other cars, and car work to make some side money. That''s basically charity from friends and family who would rather see me get paid than a random shop. I did a full motor swap in a 2007 C70 for my dad I installed an intercooler and AC hose in his 95 850 (he hit a curb and damaged them) I installed and aligned a tailgate on a '94 940 I replaced the accessory belts for both my brother in law and nephew I installed a stereo and starter motor in a 2003 Subaru Outback for a friend I installed an AC compressor, hoses, and receiver/dryer in my 01 V70 I installed new front control arms in my 03 C70, the aftermarket ones I put in 20k miles ago wore out prematurely. So consistently working on cars, and cutting way back on drinking since January I've lost about 20 pounds so far this year. On with the update: Back when I did my axle swap I found that the 1800E parking brake cable that came with the axle was too short to work in this car. I recently found out from a very resourceful guy on turbobricks that the 140 parking brake cable is longer but otherwise the same design, and is still available without breaking the bank. So I gambled on it and it was perfect. I had to slightly shorten the pull rod but otherwise it worked perfectly. Attaches to the axle like factory:  Connects to the parking brake lever like factory, and worked perfectly with the brackets I made previously:  I think I can poke out the old rubber holder, enlarge the hole above the suspension bolt and use the rubber hanger just like the other cars.  The only problem is this bangs against the body of the car, but I think I'll just cut that material out as it does basically nothing.  So now I have a parking brake for the first time in 6 years. Moving on, I bought this mini 90 amp alternator which is actually overkill in the small department, but it should work great.  With the alternator question answered, I removed the motor again.  I bought a chevy single V pulley to go with the V belt alternator and gain myself another half inch clearance for the radiator fan. This will be great because I've selected the fans and radiator, and designed the intercooler and I'm basically out of space in the front of the car. I was needing another 1/4 inch and if I used the serpentine belt pulley I'd probably have had to notch the fan shroud. The really cool part is that it's already got the right dimensions to mount backwards and tuck tight up against the motor.  Here it is compared to the serp belt pulley:  I will have to modify the timing belt cover as it just barely hits on this side. I could probably just melt it with a heat gun and make it work.  I'll have to copy this bolt pattern to the pulley, and I have to get a center adapter bushing as the pulley bore is 5mm bigger than the crank snout.  I'll have to cut that extra material off the top of my engine mount plate:  The brackets to mount it should be really easy to design and build. It'll be about an inch lower than in this picture.  With the engine laid over like this I can start to lay out and modify the coolant and turbo piping.  And after that, I removed the crossmember from the car again:  Made a template for the motor mount brackets:  They mount like this:  And I have the engine mount plates fixtured up to weld in the mounts:  So now I have to wait for my welding buddy to be free again but it will be a moderately easy task to cut out those plates, weld them to the crossmember, and then make a T out of tubing and weld it to the engine plates with some gussets. Long term I'm kind of worried about aluminum developing cracks but it's all very beefy so I probably have nothing to worry about. Also while I wait for my friend I can get started on the alternator mounting, the pulley modifications, chopping out the transmission tunnel and re-routing the brake lines, and begin designing the transmission crossmember. I'm trying as hard as I can to do mostly low cost stuff, but like with the alternator there are some things I just have to spend money on to make progress. So back to the list: Build motor mounts Cut floor Re-route brake lines (they run along the firewall with a junction block in the worst location) Build transmission mount Build throttle linkage Adapt idle air valve Build driveshaft Cut floor some more for driveshaft Build intake with intercooler and such Build alternator brackets Trunk mount battery Wire it up Modify ECU for coil on plug Build exhaust Get it running Blow rear axle with first hard launch Ford 8.8 swap So my goal of June 2016 has come and gone, the new goal is June 2017. Lots of progress should be made this winter, I will be spending on credit as needed to keep this project going.
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Jul 5, 2016 08:11
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What is that crank pulley gonna do for crankshaft harmonics?
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Jul 5, 2016 15:10
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CommieGIR posted:What is that crank pulley gonna do for crankshaft harmonics? Nothing different than the other lightweight crank pulleys sold for this engine. I've been doing some reading and I guess it's kind of a crapshoot overall. On some cars, replacing the balancer can totally snap the end of the crank off, on others nothing happens. In this case the crank is forged and the engine is internally balanced so there are no problems other than a few isolated reports of the serpentine belt shredding itself on the new pulley. Obviously I won't have that problem. One guy bolted it on and immediately lost his timing belt, and the dealership blamed the pulley, but it's really hard to see the connection there. On the plus side, nothing I'm doing is irreversible and the alt has a standard shaft, so if I decide I have the room and I get some harsh vibes or something, I can always put a serp pulley on the alternator and go back to the harmonic balancer. Without the fan shroud in there I should even have room for the torque wrench. My only issue is whether or not you can tighten a serpentine belt the same way you tighten a V belt (in my case, prybar and bolt).
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Jul 5, 2016 19:50
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LloydDobler posted:Nothing different than the other lightweight crank pulleys sold for this engine. I've been doing some reading and I guess it's kind of a crapshoot overall. On some cars, replacing the balancer can totally snap the end of the crank off, on others nothing happens. In this case the crank is forged and the engine is internally balanced so there are no problems other than a few isolated reports of the serpentine belt shredding itself on the new pulley. Obviously I won't have that problem. One guy bolted it on and immediately lost his timing belt, and the dealership blamed the pulley, but it's really hard to see the connection there. Main concern was the damper on the stock pulley looks like its made to handle specific harmonics, and I don't want you to fracture your crankshaft in half.
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Jul 5, 2016 20:02
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CommieGIR posted:Main concern was the damper on the stock pulley looks like its made to handle specific harmonics, and I don't want you to fracture your crankshaft in half. Oh yeah, and I appreciate the input. Definitely something to consider, and yeah if there weren't a bunch of people running a lightweight pulley on this engine I wouldn't even consider it. Now I'm gonna take a minute and appreciate my dad. My dad has always been a car guy. Here he is in 1958 working on his 1929 Buick.  Here's my mom (and sisters) in the '57 Nash Metropolitan he taught her to drive in. The parallel parking test was a breeze.  My mom was actually the convertible fan, as the family grew he "upgraded" to this '58 Impala. This thing had the tri-power carb setup, and he said it had the most horrifyingly inadequate brakes. One day the throttle stuck as he passed someone and the brakes didn't even begin to slow it down which is what prompted him to sell it. One of the reasons we became Volvo fans was because even in the early 70's they had extremely safe and competent 4 wheel disc brakes and he used this car as the "bad" benchmark.  But this post is (surprisingly) not about Volvos, but Rolls-Royce. In the 70's my dad gave up teaching to get in to real estate development. He made some real money for the first time in his life and rewarded himself with a british project car. In this case, a 1934 Rolls-Royce that had been re-bodied into a hearse during WW2. This was common as the early bodies would often rot out long before the chassis. It wasn't particularly expensive but everyone assumed it was. I think he got it for somewhere around $3000 in 1974. Here it is the day it was delivered:  This car had 6 jump seats along the rear sides for the pallbearers, which made it perfect for a family of 7, which we were by this time. He joined the Rolls-Royce owner's club and we started going to club meets and events:  A few years later he added a 1951 Bentley as my siblings got older and we didn't do family drives anymore. It had a bad paint job so it was a 15 foot car, which is how he got it fairly cheap as well. Here's one of my sisters in it:  In 1980 he found a real beauty, a 1923 Rolls-Royce 20HP, or "twenty" touring car. He sold both the '34 and the '51 to buy it, he paid $20k in 1980, and it had bad paint even at that price. It was one of 265 twenties built that year, (out of a 2940 production run from 1922 to 1929) and it was one of four of that body, and two were recorded as destroyed. So while there are similar bodies around, this one was particularly unique and pretty. When he bought it, it had an overheating problem that he and I worked on together. So when I was 12, this is the first engine I saw the inside of, we pulled the head together. Around 1984 He had the paint restored to the original color in incredibly high quality, the leather was redone, the wood dash restored and all the brightwork was re-nickel plated, I don't know how much that cost but it was a lot. I've posted this pic before:  Unfortunately I really don't have any pics of the details on this car, I need to dig through my dad's boxes of photos and find the good stuff. Then in the late 80's, health and economy issues forced the sale of the car, it basically built the house I spent junior high/high school/college in, which my dad is still living in today. Fast forward 30 years, my dad got out of real estate and into an independent Volvo dealership, where he built it up into a small retirement nest egg. Just before Christmas my mom passed away, and right after that my dad finally got a good offer on his shop, so he sold it in February. He's using the money to remodel his basement into an apartment that will provide rental income so he doesn't have to dip in to savings. In the meantime he's bored and shops for cars. He bought a replacement car for both my sister and her husband (cheap Volvos) and he bought a 2007 C70 which I just fixed as a flipper for profit, and he bought a 1926 model T from an estate sale as a fix and flip. But as of today he is finally back in a Rolls-Royce. Freshly delivered from Georgia to Portland is a 1973 Silver Shadow with only 28k original miles on it. Also bought from an estate sale, for a ridiculously low price. It was professionally appraised way on the low side, and then he lowballed them and they took it.  Look at the leather!  I'll be going back out there to visit and I can't wait to see and drive it. So now my dad has his retirement fleet, and comically it's the exact same setup as I have. He has a Volvo wagon for the winter and for junk hauling, a Volvo convertible for the summer, and now a collectible car for weekends and car shows. If my dad was more computer literate and less religious he'd fit right in here in AI. My sister got him a custom embroidered shirt for one of his recent birthdays that says "Still plays with cars" on it. Anyway, that's my dad and of course he's why I'm a car junkie too. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 5, 2016 |
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Jul 5, 2016 22:01
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 (That's disrespectful showing off)
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Jul 5, 2016 22:38
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That's awesome, your dad is awesome.
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Jul 5, 2016 22:57
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Would be interested to hear how hard/easy it is to keep an old rr or Bentley on the road.
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Jul 6, 2016 03:59
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Sorry to bump without an update, my welding buddy is flat out booked with paying car jobs and keeps putting me at the back of the line. He is going on vacation next week and promises to finish my poo poo as soon as he gets back, but I was worried about the thread going archived. The good news is I'm fully employed again now, I switch from contract to permanent starting Monday. Super busy, working lots of overtime because getting paid hourly rules. Also after I posted that long rear end post honoring my dad, turns out he hates the Rolls. It feels like a 70's american car, everything is noisy clunky and loose. Nothing like the precision of the older ones. And it has a massive V8 run by dual SU carburetors with enough smog equipment on them to choke Monica Lewinsky. I didn't even bother to drive it, it's already up for resale. I'm sure he'll get another one, but it's going to be older. He never should have sold the '23. He had to, but he shouldn't have.
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Sep 30, 2016 06:47
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