|
LloydDobler posted:Sorry to bump without an update, my welding buddy is flat out booked with paying car jobs and keeps putting me at the back of the line. He is going on vacation next week and promises to finish my poo poo as soon as he gets back, but I was worried about the thread going archived. Congratulations on landing something again. The Rolls: It's the thought that counts.
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 6, 2024 04:41 |
|
|
Glad to say I can finally update some real progress. I got my welding buddy to give me some time. A month ago he finished welding these brackets which I then primed: Then I fixtured up the pan with a ratchet strap:   And I cut cardboard templates for the motor mounts:  Then I ordered some square tubing and cut the pieces myself, so all he had to do is weld.   So today he carved out some time and welded the parts all together:   And the finished product, everything lines up as it should:  I have the clearance I wanted for the control arm:  A little more than I planned under the pan:  But the lower part of the pan is flush and parallel to the crossmember which is probably most important. I don't want this hanging down.  And back home ready to go in the car. I bought extra large washers and gave myself 1/2" of clearance in the mounts, so I can move the engine forward and backward as needed, to position it where I want. Also the fat washers allow me to adjust up and down or left and right by simply enlarging the holes in the brackets. So I should be able to fine tune the engine position perfectly:  That was the most frustrating part of the last 6 months, having the crossmember out of the car. This meant the car was immobile on jack stands, in the spot of my garage where I do all my work. So I had a couple other big jobs on my other cars that I had to do on the crowded side, which was not fun. Now that these mounts are done the crossmember does not have to come back out of the car ever again. I will though, to get it powder coated after all the other work is done. In addition to finishing that, I got a holiday bonus at my new job which means car parts! Radiator and fan kit!  This is a 13 x 18 core but it's 2 inches thick. It claims to be able to handle the cooling needs of up to 400 hp motors but we'll see about that. The fan is made for this radiator by flex-a-lite, and at 2.5" is the thinnest fan setup I could find. I like having the two fans, I can use the stock Volvo high/low fan logic to run one or both depending on how hot things are.  But the point of buying it is that it fits with very little modification to the car. I just have to widen the core supports.  So I did! This is the first irreversible damage to the car, no going back now! Heck, even if I did go back to the original motor this radiator is a far superior setup to the original. Also of course the damage isn't really irreversible, it would just require a couple repair panels from a junkyard car.  So while I had the sawzall out I decided to cut out the transmission tunnel:   I also bought an intercooler core but it hasn't arrived yet so no pictures. With the motor mounts done the next step is to try and fit the transmission into the car, and cut away the floorboards and firewall a half inch at a time until it clears. Then I'll know if I need any pedal modifications or anything like that. Between getting these parts done and having a job, I have much more motivation to work on this car again so I should have at least one more update before Christmas. My new goal is to have the car running by the annual import drag races which usually happen the first weekend in June.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 09:04
|
|
|
Nice! Glad to see that good things are happening.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 12:42
|
|
|
Stuff's happening! Crossmember looks so good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 15:42
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:So while I had the sawzall out I decided to cut out the transmission tunnel: Nervewracking, ain't it?  Nice to see some progress, man.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 16:20
|
|
|
Hell yeah! Nice to see you have all that extra pan clearance
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 16:55
|
|
|
Holy poo poo! Two updates in a week? Yeah I have some motivation. So things don't always work the way you want....  Just kidding, it goes in fine if you just tilt it under one side first. So Tuesday night I spent the whole evening re-assembling the suspension, the car is now back on its own wheels.  They attach to the engine very nicely. Right side:  Left side: You can see why I used such thick plate, since the bolts are fairly sparse and spread out.  But it goes back in generally where I wanted it.  Unfortunately the holes in the crossmember are pretty far off. The motor tilts waaaay back. I'll have to get a burr and elongate the front holes so I can tilt it down quite a bit.  The good news, I have plenty of room up front for everything. This is the radiator, fan, and a cardboard intercooler mockup all with room to move back toward the engine a little. Which is good because the intercooler is touching the grilles in this scenario.  I like this though, the crossmember is the lowest point.  Looks like the engine is slightly off to the left...  We'll deal with that later. Tonight I made a very simple alternator bracket.  Works great!  Plenty of clearance for the intake tubing.  I might have some trouble with an upper bracket though, these are basically the only two bolt holes available in that area. More research needed.  Still, great fit. I can definitely go to one size larger on the alternator if this one doesn't work for some reason.  But yeah, the engine is definitely off to the passenger side. Wonder what's up with that?  So now my up-pipe hits the fender.  Here you can see that the hole will have to go down a full bolt diameter to get the engine at the right angle.  So I'm not sure what's up with the engine misalignment, but I borked my mounts pretty badly. What sucks is that my oil pan centerline mark that you can see in my previous post is still lined up perfectly with the crossmember, and the pan clearance on the control arm is still right where I want it. So I somehow mis-communicated with myself, and things aren't quite adding up. On the plus side, I think I can fix it by just changing the holes in the crossmember, but I'm worried a little about how severe the misalignment of the mounts will be. I'll have to see how easily bent those plates are. And if I can't bring the engine over to the driver's side I'll have a real problem. But I don't think that will be the case. If that turns out to be my biggest problem I'll take it, everything else is going pretty well so far.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 06:16
|
|
|
You are doing some very nice work. keep it up!LloydDobler posted:
Surely you could also fix it by just getting your mate to re-make the engine mounts for you? I think I would opt for that over elongating or re-drilling the holes in the crossmember. I think you were being very brave making up engine mounts before getting a complete engine with ancillaries sitting in the hole!
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 17:00
|
|
|
Yeah, I'll second Tomarse there. Those mounts are beefy enough that it looks like they could survive a cut and re-weld to get it closer without ovaling holes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 17:57
|
|
|
You guys are right, I'll either cut and twist the tubes, or I'll start over with the mounts and do them in steel instead. I already talked to my welding buddy and if we do it again, I'll just tow the whole car over to his shop for final fitment. It's very easy to get to the mounts with the manifolds off the engine. One last update before the holidays arrive and the new year kicks in. This one was weird, I ordered 12" of 6 inch diameter, 1/8" wall tubing from Amazon. The box was rattling when I got it which confused me. I found this inside:  Apparently when you order 1 foot of large aluminum tube they send along a whole batch of 12" remnants as well. Not too shabby for $24 shipped. Intercooler core arrived! mmmm, beefy.   Next I trimmed the brackets on the fan so they are a lot cleaner, and mounted the fan up.  Then I played the game of "who wants to ruin a $300 radiator"  Fortunately I didn't actually ruin it, I trimmed off the mounting tabs that raised it up a half inch. I don't want it that high so I removed them, I have another mounting scheme in mind. I also removed the filler neck, as I don't need it either. I'll just cap the hole and put a bleeder nipple in its place that connects back to the reservoir, like the factory system.  Here you can see with things just balanced in place, that I have about a half inch between the intercooler and radiator, when they are close to final mounting position.  Here's the final clearance to the front of the engine. It's actually a little more than I originally planned, I do believe I can go back to the factory harmonic balancer and serpentine belt if I need to.  This just shows the clearance I was looking for by removing the filler neck:  This is sort of odd, there's still about 1/8" to 1/4" of air gap on the fan assembly. I think if I carefully work the seal, or possibly cut it back on the sides, I can get this fan to tuck even tighter against the radiator. Maybe even just remove the seal altogether.  This brace is necessary for proper hood closure but will have to be modified to clear the radiator:  Drilled out the welds:  This shows just how little I'll have to modify the top support, if I cut the flange and bend the middle part up a bit it'll sit right in like it was meant for it. Basically I'm just being uptight and refusing to cut this upper support like others do. Probably wasting my time but whatever, we all have our own quirks.  I'll be visiting family for the holidays so when I get back I'll finish the intercooler end tanks, and get it and the radiator mounted up properly and permanently. Sad that I just passed 2 years on this project, I did not anticipate it taking this long. On the other hand I didn't anticipate losing my job for 11 months meaning zero dollars for car mods. Back on track now though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 07:42
|
|
|
Looking good. What did you need 6" tube for though?
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 18:36
|
|
|
I"m using it for rounded surfaces on the intercooler end tanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 18:54
|
|
|
Are you going to do any ducting for the intercooler/radiator? Even with that huge open grill and nothing directing flow I have a feeling it might get a bit warm when driving it hard. Most of the air is just going to flow around the heat exchangers, path of least resistance and all. Note: I'm an engineering nerd and it'll probably be fine anywhere but a road course.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 19:42
|
|
|
Lookin' good man!
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 19:43
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Are you going to do any ducting for the intercooler/radiator? Even with that huge open grill and nothing directing flow I have a feeling it might get a bit warm when driving it hard. Most of the air is just going to flow around the heat exchangers, path of least resistance and all. Dunno about ducting but the radiator support is a wall on both sides and the top with a rubber seal against the hood that forces 100% of the air through the radiator. At least the air that goes in the grilles. I plan to fill the gaps with rubber seals as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 03:16
|
|
|
this is cool as hell
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 11:26
|
|
|
I can't believe I'm running into the archive deadline again. My welding friend is really sapping my motivation. He ignores me for weeks, then when I get mad and tell him to give me back my parts, he feels guilty enough to do some work. But he doesn't finish, and the cycle begins again. It sucks because we're friends and he's a nice guy, but it really slows the project down. He's had my intercooler since JANUARY. But more than nothing is happening, I did trim the transmission tunnel a bit more and did my first test fit of the transmission. It hit the firewall while still needing to go up another inch or so to mate with the motor, so I need to cut that a bit more. Then I stuck the heater box in there and it clears. I still might have to shorten it some, but as long as it looks factory in the engine bay that's fine with me.   Here it is without the heater box, the thing is really short and fat.  In fact, it is about the same length as the stock transmission, but the output flange is way higher. I think I'll have to tilt the motor back a bit to make this drop because otherwise there's no way.  The funny part is that it looks like I might be able to use the factory transmission mounting bolts. The transmission mount is almost perfectly in line with the original location. Anyway, this project is not forgotten. If I can get my friend off his rear end I'll have a really pretty intercooler to show you in my next update. Also I'm temporarily distracted by my daughter's V50 project: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3814309 And my new V70R. For those who don't read the Volvo thread: 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Dec 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2017 06:47
|
|
|
I'm so jealous of that V70.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2017 13:09
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:I'm so jealous of that V70. Saaaaame
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2017 13:19
|
|
|
Ooh dats nice.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2017 04:30
|
|
|
So I designed up end tanks for my intercooler about a year ago, bought the parts this January, cut them up in Feburary, and now my friend finally finished with the hard welding.  I took 90 degree bends and blended them out to flow nicely into a rounded end tank. Should flow very smoothly.   One tank done!  And complete! For now. I still have to figure out how long I want the beaded tubes that will weld on to the end of those snouts, and I have a few mounts to weld up. But I couldn't do that without test fitting this.  I have to insert it through the grille! Fortunately the grille screws on from the outside. Unfortunately my favorite grilles don't. So I can't ever switch from this grille style, which sucks. Well, unless I figure out another way to install either this or the grilles.  Good fit there.  1/4"-1/2" clearances there!  So it all fits how I wanted it to, very nicely with no hope of air conditioning unfortunately. Next will be finishing the mounting of this and the radiator, and I can begin intake plumbing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2017 09:15
|
|
|
I'm jealous of your space for an intercooler.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2017 23:14
|
|
|
I love this old Volvo and am glad to see your progress. It's looking great! And so is that V70R. LloydDobler posted:So it all fits how I wanted it to, very nicely with no hope of air conditioning unfortunately. Next will be finishing the mounting of this and the radiator, and I can begin intake plumbing. They make remote mount AC condensers with integral fans for vintage refits, maybe you could mount one up by the firewall kinda like a Subie intercooler, get some air flow over it from the cowl vent. Your modern Volvo engine block certainly sits up a lot higher in a lot smaller compartment than the WRX boxer-intercooler layout I'm thinking of, but there might still be room.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 03:36
|
|
|
I'm not actually that worried about it. The only car I've had with working AC for the last 8 years is my convertible, which I never drive with the top up. The new V70R has working AC, but I'm accustomed to living without it. If I end up feeling the need I'll figure something out. But until then it is what it is. It never had AC before, it can do without it now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 07:02
|
|
|
Was AC a factory option?
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 09:08
|
|
|
No, in later years it was a dealer installed option and horribly clunky and tacked-on. And robbed a huge percentage of what little horsepower these cars had.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 14:51
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:No, in later years it was a dealer installed option and horribly clunky and tacked-on. And robbed a huge percentage of what little horsepower these cars had. hahah what the poo poo? is this real life? in the mid-2000s? anyway good project, good thread!
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 16:18
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:hahah what the poo poo? is this real life? in the mid-2000s? At that point he had gone back to talking about the 122 not the v70r
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:At that point he had gone back to talking about the 122 not the v70r ah christ, bad reading comprehension on my part
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 18:56
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:I can't believe I'm running into the archive deadline again. My welding friend is really sapping my motivation. He ignores me for weeks, then when I get mad and tell him to give me back my parts, he feels guilty enough to do some work. But he doesn't finish, and the cycle begins again. It sucks because we're friends and he's a nice guy, but it really slows the project down. He's had my intercooler since JANUARY. Looks like things worked out, but this is why I never take up offers from friends to fix things for me, even if it would be cheaper. I have no qualms about blowing my lid if I pay for a service and things don't come along, but that's a lot harder with friends.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2017 19:04
|
|
|
The real silly part about SA thread archives is that I usually get motivated about every 4 months, but it archives in 3. Ah well. I'll try to get something done to justify the bump soon. I'm not giving up but motivation is really at an all time low. Don't know why. My V70R is getting the dents pulled next Monday, and I just got coilpacks and other stage 0 stuff for it so while the coils are out I'm going to do a compression check as my last post-purchase inspection item (the car runs fine but I just have to know) and then it gets a new tune. And the kid and I drove her new V50 around for errands yesterday, what a great little car. It runs 100% perfect.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2017 18:36
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:And the kid and I drove her new V50 around for errands yesterday, what a great little car. It runs 100% perfect. I liked mine a lot, besides some small annoying poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2017 14:25
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:And the kid and I drove her new V50 around for errands yesterday, what a great little car. It runs 100% perfect. That's awesome, and should provide some motivation. See if she'll help with the 122?
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
I crave more updates after seeing this: https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/d/1967-volvo-amazon-122s-wagon/6321840593.html
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2017 17:40
|
|
|
Lloyd, you see this?: https://jalopnik.com/at-2-950-could-this-1999-volvo-c70-make-you-a-pole-st-1819676227
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 19:26
|
|
|
Sonic blue V70R looks good! I miss my S60R, but I worry if I pick another up, it won't be as well maintained as the one I sold. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 21:12
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Lloyd, you see this?: Manual C70s are rare as frig. My purple one was a damned unicorn. It'll sell at $3k instantly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 22:18
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
It's funny, I don't think of manual C70s as rare because they all get posted for sale on Swedespeed, and my buddy here who works at a Volvo shop has purchased 2 over the years in addition to the one I own. I'm really over the silver though, after ten years of ownership I hate it now. I have also passed the halfway mark- I bought my 04 in July of 07, crashed it in March of 12, and bought my '03 in August '12. So now I've owned the 03 longer than I owned the 04, and sadly while it makes a ton more power, it is cosmetically suffering due to age. I've been working my rear end off on my cars, just not this one. Should I turn this thread into my general Volvo symposium so that it doesn't die? I've basically spent the last 2 months trying to figure out why my R boosts really slow. It ran fine but doesn't make boost until it passes 3k RPM, just like my C70 did before I tuned it with Hilton. So I bought a Hilton tune for the R, and he recommended I upgrade the MAF and the injectors. So I did, and now it boosts slowly like before, but throws codes, and it's been either disassembled or in limp mode for 8 weeks. It sucks because my C70 is loving dialed in perfect. It makes massive amounts of torque and the boost rolls on smooth from 2k RPM up. The R snaps to 0 psi and then waits till about 2800 to start building, and if I let off the gas it drops to 0 and re-builds the boost just as slowly as it did the first time. So all I want is for the R to run like the C and it feels like I have miles to go. And if I just got it done I'd be doing work on the 122 instead. In addition to that, I've been waiting for the right time to spend the money on making my daughter's V50 stage 0, and until I do I won't drive it (much). And I need to start driving it because winter is on the way. Anyway, here's what I've been doing on the R, I've been posting on Swedespeed but I didn't bother starting a thread here because this isn't supposed to be a project, but it is turning out to be one. On 6/4 I posted:
On 8/1 I posted:
on 9/1 I posted:
On 9/27 I posted:Hilton finally got back to me, apparently he thought we were done. On 10/4 I posted:Hilton says my codes combined with the slow spooling indicate a boost leak, and I hear a strange noise like a squeak or ringing at around 5 psi, so I figured that made sense. So I pressurized the entire intake and it held pressure for like 10 seconds at a time until the air bled through the engine. Didn't hear any leaking, so I tore it down 100% to inspect all the silicone elbows. A few wear spots, but no holes or tears. Also a few questionable connections where the hose clamps locked down too close to a weld or something. On 10/15 I posted:In my efforts to diagnose and fix slow spool I tore into the CBV this weekend. The screws are really soft and almost stripped the heads out, so I'm not putting it back together until I get new ones tomorrow. Then I got it back together and it boosts outrageously high, almsot 30 psi(g) which is like 26 psi at sea level. Fantastic. Except it still throws codes and boosts slowly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 04:23
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Then I got it back together and it boosts outrageously high, almsot 30 psi(g) which is like 26 psi at sea level. Fantastic. Except it still throws codes and boosts slowly. Sounds like a bad tune or a leak. Hopefully you can get it sorted. This isn't the same guy that you dealt with last time that took like 30 tries to get it right, is it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 12:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 6, 2024 04:41 |
|
|
Have you run it after playing with the bypass valve? That was my first thought, maybe not a defective spring or assembly, but defective sealing mechanism?
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2017 14:55
|
|