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Also if any of you with old cars aren't using Row52 for junk yard hunting, you're doing it wrong. http://row52.com/ You can set up automatic alerts for when cars meeting your criteria hit yards within XYZ miles of your house. You can search or alert by Year/Make/Model or VIN (full or partial) and get emails when new stuff shows up. The last time one of my alerts triggered, I was there the next day pulling bits off a car that a guy was dropping the transmission out of. It turns out we both use this service and the demand for junked AE86/AE88 Corollas is ridiculous.
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Jan 22, 2015 02:21
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That's a cool service, I signed up but none of my local yards participate 
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Jan 22, 2015 03:09
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leica posted:That's a cool service, I signed up but none of my local yards participate Luckily all of the Pick-n-Pull brand yards in the San Francisco bay area participate. Most of them are far away from the city, but within striking distance for a half day's adventure.
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Jan 22, 2015 03:19
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TheLarson posted:Replacing the cluster lights can be accomplished with a few 194 bulbs and FYI the ae86 dash responds extremely well to nice white LED replacement bulbs.  TheLarson posted:[*]Figure out why the "door open" light on the gauge cluster is toast. Probably an always-on and now burned out condition. I fixed the door sensors (which were always "open") so hopefully it's just the cluster bulb.
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Jan 22, 2015 04:43
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FopeDush posted:FYI the ae86 dash responds extremely well to nice white LED replacement bulbs. The trunk hatch sensor and door sensors work with the dome light, so I'm betting it's the gauge light still. The rest of the cluster diagnostic lights work when the key is in the "on" position. We'll see! 
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Jan 22, 2015 04:58
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TheLarson posted:It does indeed but the dimmer functionality is lost with LEDs. This is correct, unfortunately. It's hard to gauge brightness from a photo with who knows what exposure, but I haven't found them to be overly bright at night. In fact, I found the original incandescents to be annoyingly dim even at the maximum brightness. Your mileage may vary. LEDs in a multitude of brightness levels are available, but of course that will take some trial and error.
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Jan 22, 2015 05:12
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The LEDs in my Volvo wagon's cluster that I installed dim just fine, maybe retrofit a more modern dimmer? You could always get a 12v pwm dimmer and wire it to your cluster LEDs.
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Jan 22, 2015 05:15
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A productive day! Phase one: A car show at Lafayette Reservoir east of Oakland. Easily 100+ cars and a fair number of old Toyotas. Probably ten other AE86's in various conditions. Some cool swaps as well (F20C from an s2000, BEAMS 3SGE from a JDM Altezza). I met some other Corolla nerds and everyone was friendly.  Here's my car, which made the 30 mile trip without issue! It's developed an exhaust leak (probably my fault since the downpipe had to come out during the steering rack install) but otherwise ran well. This is the "good side", since the other side has a slightly bashed door from some previous owner.  The more I see the graphics, the more I want to keep them after an eventual respray. Rad!  I also might respray the black portions of the car and buff out the paint as much as possible in the meantime. Some other Corollas.  Phase two: The junkyard, Pick-n-Pull in Richmond, CA. ...which happens to be home of the fastest port-o-potty in the country. The only thing turbo about it was the sheer volume of poo poo that somehow ended up outside the actual toilet.   Victim number one was a Mk3 Supra. The interior was maroon and I grabbed the mirror. Unfortunately it was also disintegrating and I gambled on a much better shape dark gray Camry mirror. (ignore my sweet EFF hoodie  ) Victim number two was an AE92 Corolla (1988-1991). I was happy to see it was a GT-S, which shares some parts with early Corollas like mine. I was super mad to see the yard had managed to crack both side skirts in half via what I assume was a forklift. These can be adapted to an AE86 easily, but the amount of work required to glass them back together might not have been worth it. Technically the engine in this car would have been a slight upgrade for my car. It's a small port "red top" 4AGE. If I ever attempt to rebuild a 4AGE, I'd pick up one of these to start with.  Victim number three was a RX7 convertible (FC, 1988). This car might seem like an unlikely target for Toyota parts, but it contains several bits that AE86 owners can use. This car must have been added today, since it was mostly complete and at the end of the imports section. There was another guy there pillaging the aftermarket exhaust, steering wheel, and other bits.  The front brake calipers are an easy upgrade for my car using a kit like this one. This takes the front brakes from 231mm to 273mm and a single piston caliper to a four piston caliper. Rebuild kits are cheap and even if I don't use these, they were worth the $30 I paid for the pair.   The power aero mirrors found on some RX7s of this vintage are also sought after. These will bolt up to an AE86 with a little modification of their brackets. They're even the right color and would look pretty cool if I decide to use them. If not, they will go on craigslist.   Up Next:
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Jan 25, 2015 02:11
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Another option for graphics/badging you could do after a respray is to get the rear "Twin Cam 16 Valve" badges off of a 1988 Chevy Nova Twincam. Was a special one year model of the 1980s Nova (a.k.a. AE82 Corolla sedan) that came only in black with a strut brace, suspension mode, and a 4AGE with a 5 speed manual. I had a few parts from one in my AE86 and I have a couple of the rear badges from some that were in the yards here, I think they'd look good on the hatch of an 86:
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Jan 25, 2015 02:51
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get the decallllls
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Jan 26, 2015 03:45
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Those novas are rarer than hens teeth, I know because I owned the jdm version (sprinter) in japan. When I came back stateside I kept my eyes out for years and have never seen one for sale since. Think ive seen one in the wild maybe twice, and have never seen one in a yard so good luck with that. I imagine a very small number of them were produced.
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Jan 26, 2015 03:58
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leica posted:Those novas are rarer than hens teeth, I know because I owned the jdm version (sprinter) in japan. When I came back stateside I kept my eyes out for years and have never seen one for sale since. Think ive seen one in the wild maybe twice, and have never seen one in a yard so good luck with that. I imagine a very small number of them were produced. Yes, and only produced for one year - 1988. Which makes it pretty amazing I've found not one, but two of them in the same yard mere months apart. I might dig around in the garage and see if I can find the pair of rear badges I got from them, and I still have a bunch of ignition system and other engine bits I pulled from the Nova Twincams as spares for my AE86 and AW11. I should probably see if any goons need any of my spare bits; I think I've got a working AE86 gauge cluster and ECU and a spare set of 4AG valve covers and a bunch of other poo poo boxed up somewhere, and the chances of me buying another 4AG powered car are fairly slim now, as I'm not willing to pay the prices people are asking for them anymore.
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Jan 26, 2015 04:45
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When I was in Japan I couldn't afford an 86 (hence the sprinter) but always figured Id end up with one here but I waited too long and now I can't afford to have one again Its easier and cheaper just to stick with miatas at this point. I still pine for an 86 though, my favorite was a Japanese dude I knew with a maroon notchback and black watanabes, I can still picture it clearly to this day, and that was back in like '91. Edit: posting from a phone sucks Edit 2: Pic of my Sprinter circa 1991  
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 05:58
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There's quite a few of these being imported to the UK/worldwide by OPJP on facebook, the guys basically sit on auction sites and buy via a guy they have over there who'll ship wherever. It's tempting. Very tempting.
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Jan 26, 2015 12:47
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leica posted:Edit 2: Pic of my Sprinter circa 1991 From the school of cheap fixes comes  THE LIGHT BULB INQUISITION! Enter one gauge cluster with what appears to be all original bulbs. Luckily these aren't too difficult to pull out of the dash. That said, this car has a lot more pieces (read: fasteners, screws, and brackets) that I've never seen due to my last car's amazing string of PO's.  Each of the main cluster bulbs is covered in little green rubber sleeves. I imagine these bulbs were originally dipped in said rubber and thankfully it wasn't terrible to separate them with a dull blade / nail file. I only tore 1 of the 4 main bulb rubbers.  I'm a fan of the "while you're in there" approach to automotive repair. You can see the assortment of okay, burned out, and about-to-be-burned-out cluster bulbs. Due to Rock Auto's gently caress up, I had enough tiny bulbs to do all of the smaller side lights! The main 4 bulbs and the fuel light were also changed for good measure. I went with the factory recommended 158 type bulbs, when most of the internet goes with higher wattage 194's. They look the same, and no one on the internet actually mentions the wattage difference?  Either way, the new bulbs look excellent even in the day time when this shot was taken. You'll also notice that the elusive "door ajar" light is back! It was burned out as expected. According to the internet, the fuel warning light doesn't come on during startup like the rest of them do. The bulb is new so we'll see if I ever manage to run the car out of gas. The cluster cover plastic was pretty gross, so it got a quick bath and plastic polish and looks brand new.  This is a little tougher to tell, but both the cigarette socket light and HVAC light were also burned out. They shared the same bulbs as the smaller cluster lights, so I had plenty enough to get the whole job done! I also sprayed the cigarette lighter bezel and got a new cigarette lighter since it was cheap. It has a certain long lost car stuff charm about it.  I could have gone with LEDs or higher wattage bulbs, but this was all done for less than $20 and the results bring a lot of life back to the interior. It would have been cheaper if I'd steered clear of the retail Sylvania bulbs @ ~$5 per pack, but hey sometimes you just want to get it done. This also means that every light bulb in the car works! In other news ---> You can see the gap where the radio goes. Unfortunately (and not unexpectedly) the "new" tape deck has the same issue as the original one. The radio is fine, but the tape deck just reverses back and forth when a tape is inserted into it (confirmed by the direction light). It plays a short burst of tape music in between direction switching, but I have no idea what's wrong with it. Do any of you know what would cause a tape deck to do this? TheLarson fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jan 27, 2015 |
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Jan 27, 2015 01:55
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I had the same issue on multiple E30 tape decks - there is a rubber band inside of them that breaks. I believe the tape deck thinks its at the end of a tape and reverses. You might be able to disassemble it and replace it. Great looking car and I'm jealous of your refreshed bulbs - I need to do the same in my car.
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Jan 27, 2015 01:59
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Lightbulb Out posted:I had the same issue on multiple E30 tape decks - there is a rubber band inside of them that breaks. I believe the tape deck thinks its at the end of a tape and reverses. You might be able to disassemble it and replace it. Also your username is oddly appropriate. 
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Jan 27, 2015 02:15
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TheLarson posted:That's cool. Do you recall the exact year/model of the car? I've never seen or heard of those. It was an '86 or '87 Toyota Sprinter "Twin Cam", 4AGE. I beat the piss out of that car on mountain passes. No tofu delivering though 
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Jan 27, 2015 03:04
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Cassette player update: It turns out that both tape players have cracked gears. The gears that sit directly below the barrels that drive the tape are split, since they're partially hollow and 30 years old. The split has expanded the gap between two teeth on each gear, which jams against the main drive gear. This appears to be triggering the auto-reverse in both players, since it can't even make one full revolution with a tape inserted. Unfortunately, all four of these gears (two per player) are cracked in the exact same way. Unless I can find replacements, both of these units are dead.  I'll be on the lookout for another early 80's Toyota double din radio, or an original single din + pocket setup out of one of these cars. Luckily no-cut wiring harnesses are abundant, so I could just bite the bullet and install something a little more modern. I pulled an excellent condition rearview mirror from a late 80's Camry in the yard. It's not exactly the same shape, but it's very close and bolted right up.  This image sums up the "un-garaged plebeian California car" effect pretty well. Faded paint and ruined interiors are traded for rust free cars. Still a trade I'd make, but drat. The original maroon mirror got it worse than any other part in the car. The plastic is disintegrating and turns to dust in your hand. 
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Jan 31, 2015 02:14
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TheLarson posted:Technically the engine in this car would have been a slight upgrade for my car. It's a small port "red top" 4AGE. If I ever attempt to rebuild a 4AGE, I'd pick up one of these to start with. Not all "Red Tops" are smallports, that looks like a largeport motor. The intake manifold is a dead giveaway, the smallport manifold is ribbed along the top and does not have the TVIS system.
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Jan 31, 2015 03:01
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OneStopShop posted:Not all "Red Tops" are smallports, that looks like a largeport motor.
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Jan 31, 2015 03:39
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How well versed are you guys with identifying the 4AGE? There is basically a parts car corolla for sale that last time it went on craigslist, claimed to have a 20v with the 6 speed. It's popped up on cl again and the new owner knows even less about it. Is there a way to identify a 20v? On Hondas, the head has a casting number that identifies the head, and a stamp on the block for the bottom end. Is there anything like that for the 4a? All I have found so far is the ribs on the exhaust side between silver and black top 20v, but nothing about 16v or 20v differences. I'm trying to do this without pulling off the valve cover, which has been modified to show off the timing belt. I don't want to end up with a 20v head slapped on an old 16v block either.
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Jan 31, 2015 05:19
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TheLarson posted:Cassette player update: It turns out that both tape players have cracked gears. The gears that sit directly below the barrels that drive the tape are split, since they're partially hollow and 30 years old. The split has expanded the gap between two teeth on each gear, which jams against the main drive gear. This appears to be triggering the auto-reverse in both players, since it can't even make one full revolution with a tape inserted. Unfortunately, all four of these gears (two per player) are cracked in the exact same way. Unless I can find replacements, both of these units are dead. How Toyota-specific could these parts really be? I bet if you dismantle enough Walkmans you'll find the exact parts. If there's one thing that has no shortage of crazy grognard obsessives who hoard parts, it's stereos. For instance, this guy has rollers, I bet there's another guy with those gears: http://www.studiosoundelectronics.com/cassette.htm edit: Buy a 3D printer edit edit: Seems like it must be possible to source a new gear from somewhere. http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_audiofaq2.html#AUDIOFAQ_015 quote:Some of the autoreverse decks use a rotating magnet under or part of the Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Jan 31, 2015 |
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Jan 31, 2015 05:55
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mafoose posted:Is there anything like that for the 4a? All I have found so far is the ribs on the exhaust side between silver and black top 20v, but nothing about 16v or 20v differences. I'm trying to do this without pulling off the valve cover, which has been modified to show off the timing belt. The 20v uses a different oil pump, but the best way too check is the block casting. 16v pump:  20v pump:  16v Engine block:  20v Engine block (note the curve in the top left):  As for the transmission, there should be a ID/VIN plate on it. Here are the numbers for the 6 speed: quote:30300-1A260 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZR the 1A260 has the fairly rare (and possibly valuable) factory helical LSD.
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Jan 31, 2015 19:04
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Gas up, there's adventure to be had! Every time I fill up this car I curse the dingus who decided to paint the fuel door gunmetal silver, complete with zero prep work and overspray. It's the only part on the car they touched... First stop, Sonoma race way to put my butt in some seats at Wine Country Motorsports. They were super helpful, but they didn't have one of the seats I'd been eyeing (Cobra Daytona). All of the Sparco street seats I sat in were either too narrow or not as supportive as I'd like for my tall/skinny self.  Next stop, Harbor Freight. I cobbled together the cheapest tool bag known to mankind. The goal was to spend as little as possible while still enabling me to separate the main garage tool box from the traveling emergency tools. I also bought a cheapo buffer with cutting and buffing pads. The paint on this car is pretty shot, but I'm certain some parts of it can be shined up.  Next next stop, Griffin Motorwerke for some more butt in seat time. The shop was super cool and they had the entire Recaro lineup on display. Aside from some casual racism from the owner (who really hates replica racing seats and their primary country of origin), everyone was cool and the shop was all around excellent. They had a healthy mix of street and race cars on hand, mostly of German descent. I settled on a basic black Recaro Speed seat with nice red stitching. It fit me the best of all the seats I tried and the quality seems excellent. I need to order a mount before I can install it. I'll be sticking with the OEM seatbelt setup for now. Harnesses are probably off the table in a car like this, given the street car + roll over + head crush + submarine debate that seems ongoing. Regardless, the stock seat is so beat it's probably dangerous. The foam is worn down to the metal frame in places, and the seat itself wobbles and clicks when any pressure is applied to it.  Mandatory artsy cell phone shot I took the lady to Treasure Island on the way back since she'd never been. A fine day! 
TheLarson fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Feb 3, 2015 |
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Feb 3, 2015 02:56
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Test this on an inconspicuous area of the car first to make sure you won't take the factory paint off, but you can probably take the lovely rattle can paint and overspray off with some acetone and a roll of shop towels. It's worked many times for me in the past.
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Feb 3, 2015 03:06
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TheLarson posted:
This rules. 
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Feb 3, 2015 03:52
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TheLarson posted:I was unaware of this, thanks for the clarification. All I know is that the motor I currently have is a big port blue top with TVIS. I had a big port red top in my 1988 Corolla. It had the benefits of having the stronger block and the under piston oil squirters from the supercharged motor, and had the TVIS on it as well. You could see the rev gauge get a kick around 3500rpm when the secondary inlet tracks opened up.
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Feb 3, 2015 07:37
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kastein posted:Test this on an inconspicuous area of the car first to make sure you won't take the factory paint off, but you can probably take the lovely rattle can paint and overspray off with some acetone and a roll of shop towels. It's worked many times for me in the past. I've also been successful with goo gone. Rattle can paint was only a couple days old but left the (brand new) clear coat in mint shape and took off the overspray easily.
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Feb 7, 2015 04:58
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Every time I'd open either door of this car, I'd catch a glimpse of crap stuck in the front fenders. Every car I've owned has suffered from this same problem, as if a squirrel had taken up residence in the wheel well. Pine needles, leaves, dirt, and even a few small hornets (???) nests. From my experience in more rainy places, this is how one gets rusty fenders from trapped water. Time to do some (more) spring cleaning.    It might be tough to tell, but that's multiple handfuls of junk per side. Luckily there was no sign of rust or other nonsense inside either fender. I also pulled off the mud flaps and scrubbed and treated the hell out of them. I'll have to snap some pics later of how they came out. At some point I'd like to respray the rocker panels with black, since it'd be a cheap fix and would add some life to the outside of the car.Crappy Seat Belts: Both front seat belts are also in sad shape which is something I should have dealt with on day one. Given that I've got a fancy new seat, now is as good a time as any to repair or replace them. Here is the driver's side belt pulled from the car. It's got a couple of captive pieces which made removing it a pain. I discovered a sweet $1000 peso coin under the back seat, which is included for reference.  The 80's run deep with this car.   Here's a shot of part of the locking mechanism. The little ball is responsible for triggering a little arm when it's jarred. The little arm (on the right side) triggers a more stout locking mechanism when touched by the ball. Both were in need of a cleaning.  I forgot to snap any pics of me re-tensioning the spring, but you can find a quick DIY here. This process should buy me a little more retraction power with the belt. Unfortunately these belts aren't available from Toyota anymore. Finally, the belt itself was just gross. 30 years of human filth made it surprisingly "sticky" when compared to other parts of the belt that had never seen the light of day. As I'm writing this, the main belt section is soaking in the sink. Warm water and some dish soap, which should help the belt slide along its merry way. The water it's soaking in had turned a delightful shade of yellow after only a few minutes.  More Stuff: This brings us to the continued destruction of the budget. I had a good idea of what I was getting into when I bought this car, but the level of rattiness still amazes me. This is a 30 year old trumped up econo-box, and it appears to have been treated as such by everyone who isn't me. That said, I could have taken a more economical approach. Personal (essentially Nardi at this point) steering wheel, Works Bell steering hub and quick release, and some  Work lug nuts. Considering a lot of 80's cars can be stolen with a flat head screwdriver, there is some method to the madness with part choices here. Here's my thought process for current and future anti-theft measures:
Anyways, onto the install. Luckily the cat was able to translate the instructions for the steering bits. Thankfully all of the torque values were present and easy enough to convert to something usable. Also bless the Japanese for their comprehensive diagrams!  It's difficult to relay the level of disgusting that the original steering wheel harbored. It exuded some sort of sticky death that I was unable to remove. The leather was cracked and peeling.  Fixed! The wheel feels great and is slightly smaller than the factory one at 350mm. The leather is nice and tight and the red stitching goes with the interior and the new seat. The horn works as well, which took some creative combination of included ground + power wires. The Works Bell quick release is also a huge improvement over the NRG's I've experienced in the past. The action is tight and there's zero play. Everything bolted up with the included hardware. I can assure you the angle is correct. I was just monkeying with it before this picture was taken.  The seat went in with a bit of a fight. The Recaro rails came with enough hardware to attach to the seat, but nothing in the way of attachment to the base. I had to grab some high grade hardware to get it all bolted together. Luckily 4 beefy M8 bolts got it matched up with the Planted Technology base. The base itself needed a very slight tweak to get the 4th bolt seated, but it eventually went in and is now torqued.  By this point, the seat belt is still out so the car isn't going anywhere. Hopefully it goes back in and retracts + locks correctly tomorrow. In the meantime, does anyone have any ideas for other anti-theft measures that can be taken? I've seen a few reports of these cars going missing in the Bay Area so I'd like to keep this one firmly in my possession.
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Feb 8, 2015 02:06
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I get a bit more jealous every time I see this thread. I love that AE86, and those wheels work so drat well on it
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Feb 8, 2015 02:20
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T1g4h posted:I get a bit more jealous every time I see this thread. I love that AE86, and those wheels work so drat well on it In other news, there's a ripple in the Matrix thanks to Rock Auto. Of the ~10 of these magnets on my fridge, Tim's Buick is over represented.  
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Feb 8, 2015 02:41
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Oh man I want the Ariel Atom RockAuto magnet bad. Time to buy more cars so I can justify buying more parts. I love Personal wheels a lot. Were they always part of Nardi or was it a recent acquisition?
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Feb 8, 2015 06:05
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If you want the car dead dead dead, put the switch in the primary wire to the ignition coil (carb or efi) or the crank position sensor signal wire (efi.) Starts but dies a few seconds later so they think it is out of fuel or a piece of poo poo, put it in the ballast resistor wiring for the fuel pump, typically it will start since the resistor is bypassed during startup and then will die when the bypass relay turns off. This doesn't apply to you, but on waste spark vehicles, putting the switch in the signal for one or two coilpacks is great because it will start or try to and act like a piece of poo poo. If you set up a timer, you could easily make it act like a piece of poo poo and run for like five seconds with a couple cylinders missing then shut off. Another option is to just take the shift lever with you a guy I know did that on his old ford truck, you could start it with a screwdriver and the doors didn't lock but you better have a shift lever with you else it was staying in neutral. He would just reach down and unclip it from the top of the transmission, then walk off.E: that is a removable wheel right? Take steering wheel off, lock in trunk or bring inside, done. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Feb 8, 2015 |
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Feb 8, 2015 08:13
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I love Personal wheels a lot. Were they always part of Nardi or was it a recent acquisition? kastein posted:If you want the car dead dead dead, put the switch in the primary wire to the ignition coil (carb or efi) or the crank position sensor signal wire (efi.)
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Feb 8, 2015 09:26
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Actually, even better would be putting an SPST switch on the 12v + input wire for the ECU relay. I had an intermittently failing ECU relay on mine for months and it took forever to diagnose the issue, as it would crank and crank but never catch despite having an obviously working fuel pump and spark. I'd be driving down the freeway and the engine would just... stop running. Then after trying repeatedly to crank it on the side of the road, it would suddenly catch and start working again just fine. There's no telltales what was causing it since the fuel pump still primes and all the gauges and electrics work fine, it just won't start or run at all, since the ECU won't be on to fire the injectors, since it's such a primitive EFI system that's the only job the ECU really has.
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Feb 8, 2015 10:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I love Personal wheels a lot. Were they always part of Nardi or was it a recent acquisition? I believe they were two companies. My friend has an 80s Personal wheel with no mention of Nardi. I have a 90s one with no Nardi markings as well. They always shared the built pattern with Nardi though (60° from momo and slightly bigger bolt circle).
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Feb 8, 2015 10:54
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HotCanadianChick posted:Actually, even better would be putting an SPST switch on the 12v + input wire for the ECU relay. I had an intermittently failing ECU relay on mine for months and it took forever to diagnose the issue, as it would crank and crank but never catch despite having an obviously working fuel pump and spark. That depends. All the things I listed are fairly low current compared to the entire B+ supply to the engine system, so you can use thin wire and a small easy to hide switch without worryying about it getting melty. If anything you would want to put a switch in the signal to the coil on the relay you listed, not the input wire or output wire. That way it is limited to about 150mA that needs to be switched.
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Feb 8, 2015 16:22
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mafoose posted:I believe they were two companies. My friend has an 80s Personal wheel with no mention of Nardi. I have a 90s one with no Nardi markings as well. They always shared the built pattern with Nardi though (60° from momo and slightly bigger bolt circle). Yeah, I had a Personal wheel from the 80s that came with no markings indicating any relation to Nardi. Must have happened relatively recently.
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Feb 8, 2015 17:30
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I just bought a Nardi 350mm Deep Corn. In comparison to my old Momo Monte Carlo (330mm), the wheel itself is a little thinner and I dont know if I like it. I previously had the Momo on a 20mm spacer as its a flat wheel, and the Nardi is about another 10-15mm deeper so I ditched the spacer. I got the Nardi in Tokyo for a pretty good discount over locally sold ones so I might just sell it and put the money towards a Personal.
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Feb 9, 2015 00:30
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