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Overlap in interest. People that keep herps tend to keep inverts and vice versa, and lots of people keep inverts as feeders.
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Jan 21, 2015 20:54
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BATS AREN'T BUGS!
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Jan 21, 2015 23:08
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pants cat posted:Jekub, have you considered giant land snails? Your 5 year old can feed them lettuce and they likely won't jump out of his hands. Are giant land snails legal to own in places? I thought they were banned because they're a horrible invasive species that spread like crazy if they escape.
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Feb 4, 2015 20:02
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A lot of the big dart frog breeders attend the shows, so all that stuff is true except that - just research who you're buying from. The herp shows will say who's attending in advance, so a lot of time you can research a breeder, and then contact them and reserve the animals and pick them up at the show. Definitely recommend buying a sexed pair of adults, though. They're more expensive, but most of the problems can avoided that way - they're almost certainly going to be healthy, since they've survived a year or more already, and you don't get same-sex aggression issues with a known pair. Less important to have a pair with some species vs. others, though, so being sexed doesn't matter then.
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Feb 6, 2015 04:40
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If you want to look for advanced emotions beyond fear, hunger, etc. you need to look at social species, and for the most part reptiles are solitary outside of the breeding season so there hasn't really been a lot of opportunity for that kind of thing to evolve. You'll hear stories of things like iguanas only letting their owner get near them, or defending the owner when on their back, but this is probably along the lines of, "I recognize you as a non-threat that feeds me" or "piss off, this is my non-threat that feeds me." You might find something closer to mammal emotions in tortoises. These are long-lived animals that can have some degree of social lives, interacting with each other for decades or centuries. This video seems to show altruism in two tortoises. Is that what's really going on? It definitely looks like the tortoise recognizes that the other is stuck and purposely attempts to help it, but whether or not that's actually what's happening, I have no idea. For all I know, the turtle saw a helpless turtle and decided to try mating with it, and the other turtle seized the opportunity and used it to flip himself over. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJ87DJl_jbc Monitors might be cognitive enough to have more complex emotions, as well as some other groups, but I don't really know how far they actually go. I'd argue that the vast majority of non-avian reptiles, or maybe even still the majority once you include birds, have very limited emotions. Snakes are completely non-social, with a few exceptions such as rattlesnakes, and most lizards aren't social, either. Crocodilians and some lizards might be somewhere to look, but you're never going to find anything like love or whatever. I tend to think that people generally don't give animals enough credit with this kinda thing, but with reptiles and amphibians, they probably get too much (anthropomorphizing).
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Feb 12, 2015 23:22
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Paddletails really should have a decent sized tank - they're stream dwelling animals and really territorial. A ten gallon is probably too small for any aquatic salamanders, except maybe something small in a semi-aquatic setup - a smaller Eurycea or Desmognathus. I don't really like tens for aquatic animals, though. A larger tank would work for sirens. You could keep a bunch of terrestrial salamanders easily, though - just about anything smaller than a tiger salamander would work. Ambystoma species would do well like that - I donated one of my A. gracile to work, and we set him up in a ten half full of cocofiber, and then a paper towel tunnel that he likes to hide in - might need to upgrade to PVC soon, though, since it's not holding as long as I'd hoped it might. Is the dog okay? I don't know how toxic Pachytriton are, but they are poisonous. Edit: Oh, you're in California, nevermind on the Ambystoma, then. If you go out into the woods, you might flip a Batrachoseps - I didn't have a lot of problem finding them, really abundant in some areas. Completely terrestrial, really long tails, would eat fruit flies - I think they're neat.
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Feb 16, 2015 03:00
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Bollock Monkey posted:Hoping this is the right place... Tupperware boxes can work - just be sure the water doesn't foul. I've raised them in small boxes - you get less cannibalism that way. I'd wait until they're getting big for the boxes (3-4 inches maybe?) and are all the same size (or else they might eat each other). I don't really know specifically when I'd keep them together, though - if there's room and hiding places, they'd do fine together, really, provided they're all the same size. I'd go with live earthworms myself if they'll eat them, though - more nutritious, and less likely to foul the water - cut them into pieces if needed. As far as care, I'd just get a tank cycled properly, get some live plants, and have everything set up for a while, and so long as the temps stay cool, they should do pretty well. Hazo posted:Hey herp pros, got a question for a friend. Don't keep them together - they all have different care requirements, and the turtle is going to try to eat the others as you've noticed. It's also insanely high stress for everyone else involved. Turtles are very good at killing other animals if they want to. If he can get at it, it's free protein. I don't know specifically what the issue is with the anole, but he's not being cared for properly - I'd guess it might be damage from the turtle.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:52
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That would be fine. Extra space is not a bad thing - he can still find his food in a larger tank, especially if it's live. More water means less chance of fouling it, too. What I like to do is wash out children's playground sand really well, until the water comes out clear, and use this as my substrate. Half an inch or so of substrate would work well, and will encourage beneficial bacteria to colonize it. Too much sand can cause issues, though, with anaerobic conditions, so you'd need good aeration if you wanted something deeper for plants. Elodea and java moss are excellent plants that do really well and can help filter the water. Edit: Just took a look at your tank's size, hadn't really paid much attention to it since I think in terms of gallons. That tank is really a bit small for an axolotl - it would be okay for a juvenile, but way too small for an adult, and the transition would be a problem - at some point, he'll start producing more waste than the tank can take care of. I would try to find a bigger tank - a 20 gallon long (30" x 12" x 12") or a 29 (30" x 12" x 18") would be more suitable for an axolotl - you should be able to find a used tank on craigslist or something pretty cheaply - a dollar/gallon isn't uncommon, which might come with a lid/light (be sure the light is fluorescent - incandescents raise the temperatures too much). Otherwise, you should still be able to get a brand new tank, a hood with a light, some plants, and the animal for under $100, which isn't bad considering you might have him for the next 10-25 years.
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Mar 5, 2015 17:39
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I'd never use a tank that small - it's just asking for problems with aquatic animals, especially ones that get as big as axolotls - too much waste production, and they need more space. I don't know who would have suggested a tank that small being okay - caudata.org is a good resource, maybe just for the juveniles? The thing with tank sizes is that as you increase the amount of water you have, you get more of a buffer for problems. There's more space for the animal, so less stress, and there's more water, so it's going to be less vulnerable to temperature and nitrate/nitrite/etc. fluctuations. They can survive in a ten gallon tank, but when something happens - it gets stressed, there's a heat wave, or so on, it's more likely to die. Java moss and Elodea are both plants that don't root or don't have to root, which is part of why they're so good for salamander tanks. The benefit for live plants is that they help clean the water by removing waste. Filters can stress out animals, depending on how strong the filter is, and enough good plants and a thin layer of substrate means you don't need a filter, just an airline to keep the water circulating a little bit and to discourage anaerobic conditions, plus water changes every so often.
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Mar 5, 2015 18:27
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A tank the size you have can work, and you might not ever have problems, but with things like axolotls, bigger is always better since there's so much more room for error. They're just listing that size as a bare minimum, whereas I recommend something larger instead, so you don't need to feel bad! Anything bigger than that is going to be fine - what mostly matters is surface area, so the depth of the water isn't as important beyond the extra water for heat and waste related issues. Are aquariums not common over there? You can walk into even a Wal Mart here and come out with a ten gallon tank for $12 or so, it just seems weird that you had to have it special ordered. I could spend five minutes on craigslist and find a dozen people selling tanks between 10 and 50 gallons for really affordable prices if I needed to. It will work, especially for a smaller animal, but you might want to consider upgrading as it grows bigger. Canister filters can work with axolotls, but you need to worry about it generating a current, and if the animal is small enough, it could get hurt from the filter/sucked into it. Filters can also generate heat, which can be bad - a few extra degrees over room temperature can lead to stress issues in axolotls. If I were to use a filter, I'd get one several sizes smaller than rated for the tank, but really, plants and water changes will do that all for you without a filter. Or you could get one of those filters that's basically an airline with some charcoal at the end - oxygenates the water and the charcoal provides some chemical filtration, and room for bacteria to colonize, too. But yeah, plants also look really nice, at the same time and provide somewhere for the animals to hide, so that's why I really like them. You can't kill java moss, provided they get at least low light, and Elodea is pretty hardy, too. I just ordered a ton of java moss for some animals at work and it was just $30 with shipping, and a lot of pet stores carry it, too - used to get big clumps of it from a pet store and it would grow pretty well. A friend of mine used to have tons of it and would pretty much let it fill his salamander tanks, so it also provided some resting land area for some of his newts. And with Elodea, I bought some six years ago and dumped it in my siren pools, and it's doing really well for me. Great plants, pretty easy even for beginners.
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Mar 5, 2015 20:29
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Just keep in mind that you'll need fresh vegetables all the time. The beardie at work literally eats better than I do.
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Mar 7, 2015 06:42
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I can't say for sure because I'm not 100% up on my western frogs, but I'm pretty sure those are both Pacific chorus frogs (or tree frogs; common name is usually Pacific tree frog, but they're Pseudacris, not Hyla, so chorus frog makes more sense), one is just a juvenile. Yeah, keeping WC isn't a bad thing if done responsibly (where else do WC animals come from?), but usually Rana are a really bad choice for pets due to space needs. If it were a wood frog, those are generally an exception. Chorus frogs are pretty decent captives, too. As far as food goes, fruit flies will be best, especially for the small one. There are a bunch of places online that sell them; joshsfrogs.com comes to mind, though I've gotten mitey D. hydei cultures from them before. You can order them or else just make your own; you won't need a lot of cultures, maybe two a week to make sure one doesn't go bad and leave you stranded. You can make media with mixing 1/2 cup of dry mix (I make dry mix and keep it separate, with a box of potato flakes, ~4 cups of powdered sugar, ~4 cups brewer's yeast) with 1/4 cup apple sauce and 1/4 cup of vinegar (might add 1/8-1/4 cup of water). Microwave for 2-3 minutes (kills any mites in dry mix, also helps expand mix), add some coffee filters for places for the flies to pupate on, add flies, repeat every week, and you can start harvesting after ~14 days. The larger frog might eat worms, and if you can get enough smaller worms, they'd be a much better food (no need for supplements), and easier than fruit flies. I hate making fruit fly cultures more than anything I do regularly in my life, though, especially cleaning out the mason jars I use (quart-sized). Doing 1-2 wouldn't be so bad, though. As far as training it to eat from a dish, I don't think age is going to matter. An older frog or a younger one should both eventually learn to eat from a bowl.
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Mar 19, 2015 18:02
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ZarathustraFollower posted:So, I've been offered an axolotl and I'm trying to figure out how much it would cost to maintain, and if I have the room for another animal. Right now, I got 2 pine snakes, a box turtle and 2 tarantulas. I think I could fit a 10gal next to the box turtle, which should be big enough for even an adult (which it wouldn't be). How much does it generally cost to set one up & weekly maintenance? I'd get a submersible filter with a flow bar for water quality, and am considering a hood to have live plants to better control water quality too, but that may be more long term. Do those little aquarium fans actually help with cooling the water? It seemed like a big jump between those and heavy-duty chillers. A ten gallon tank really isn't big enough for an adult, though; it'll kill the water quality really quickly in a tank that small. Go for a 20 long or a 29 for the smallest, and get lots of plants (java moss works best - filters out ammonia and nitrates, etc., and doesn't need much light or anything). Weekly cost of having an axolotl should be really small - a dollar or two for some worms, electricity for an air pump, and maybe a light. You don't really need a filter if you have a large enough tank and enough plants - filters can raise the water temperature by a degree or so, and can stress the animals out if it generates too much current. What temperature is your house? You shouldn't need a fan unless you don't have any A/C at all - but they will generally lower the temp by a few degrees. Water temperature is usually a bit cooler than the house's ambient temp anyhow, and assuming you have enough water, it'll be resistant a bit to temperature changes over the course of the day, so it'll moderate any spikes in temp if they're not too high. If high temps are an issue for a short period of time, you can float a container of frozen water on top, but this is really labor intensive. I did that and a fan in college for my 75 gallon tank that I had a mudpuppy in when we didn't have A/C and it worked pretty well, but that was 3-4 weeks max and was a huge pain to keep up on.
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May 2, 2015 20:16
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WC is fine, thought I despise selling WC for profit. A few animals removed from an area doesn't really hurt much, taking twenty or a hundred does. Depends on what you're talking about, though. If it's a slow breeding animal on the decline (lots of turtles and others) or they're not doing well but might not technically be protected, then it's still immoral. CB is best, though - fewer disease related issues, nothing is being removed from the wild, no one is being paid to take an animal out of captivity, and you're giving money to people that are going to the effort to provide captive bred animals.
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May 6, 2015 19:53
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Anyone keep worm snakes in captivity, or something like that? I work at a place that does outreach programs with animals and we definitely need a snake, but I want something that will never bite the kids and would need mice (just due to freezer issues and so on, though I might pitch a hognose if need be.) Any recommendations or anything to add that we might try?
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May 27, 2015 19:52
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They don't live in Colorado, and it's generally illegal to release captive animals into the wild, even if they're native - that's how a lot of diseases can be spread.
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Jun 25, 2015 19:00
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Happy World Lizard Day!
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Aug 15, 2015 01:12
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Well, this new US regulation basically destroys the entire salamander hobby; a complete ban on inter-state trade in the majority of salamander genera that breed in captivity. It'll also prevent me from selling a number of the species that I breed that sell best and let me live off of my income - I work a job I absolutely love that doesn't pay well, and sell the salamanders I breed to make up the difference. I have no idea what I'm going to do. http://www.fws.gov/injuriouswildlife/salamanders.html
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Jan 12, 2016 18:47
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Cless Alvein posted:So if I'm reading that right they're banning it for something that hasn't happened and might never happen anyway? Why not just ban the import of the European Salamanders that might carry the fungus? Why go with the nuclear option right away? They're basically going along with the agenda of an organization called "Save the Frogs," which is extremely anti-pet, so it honestly appears to me like they're using the disease as an excuse. The import ban is solid and something that is definitely needed, but the interstate trade ban actually makes it more likely that Bsal escapes into the wild if it is already here, and if it isn't, it does nothing but more or less destroy the majority of the salamander hobby. They need the cooperation of the salamander hobby to test collections and gather data on Bsal, but they've actually made it illegal to send swabs across state lines. FWS has also shown a very poor track record of managing diseases (wasting disease in deer or white nosed syndrome in bats), whereas USDA has shown they can prevent the spread of these kinds of diseases (avian flu) without going to these lengths. I think the snake lawsuit is still in court. Ambystoma was tested and found that Bsal doesn't have much of an effect on them. But they're also ignoring how Ambystoma as fishing bait is one way that lots of diseases have spread in the past. I don't see why any native genera are listed at all, though; if they have it, then it's in the wild and the primary method it'll be spread is not through interstate salamander shipments. One thing that really annoys me is that they're actively ignoring solid scientific recommendations when implementing this ban and instead are using some pretty poor science for their justification, so it honestly does feel like Bsal is a secondary issue rather than the thing they're specifically trying to deal with. OneTwentySix fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jan 31, 2016 |
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Jan 31, 2016 17:48
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If anyone wants to make a public comment regarding the ban on salamander imports and interstate trade, the comment period ends in 24 hours. It's not unreasonable to imagine that they might go after snake keepers next, given the snake fungal disease and their ties to anti-pet organizations in writing this rule. https://www.federalregister.gov/art...us#open-comment
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Mar 14, 2016 04:03
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When an amphibian gets out of its cage, most species are dead within fifteen minutes.  In happier amphibian news, I found these eggs in my arboreal salamander tank:  Pretty sweet - they're a really neat species to work with, and I had eleven babies just back in November, so they're really going at it. In a month or so, I should have some more of these guys: 
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May 2, 2016 20:18
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Anyone know any vendors that sell very small worms? I've been keeping a brown snake (Storeria dekayi) for a few months, and she's doing great, but today I went in and found 10-30 babies. I'd kind of expected that she was gravid, but now I need to find something for these guys to eat. I tried chopping up some of the worms the mother eats, but most didn't seem interested - one did try eating, but I don't think he liked the taste/defense secretions and he dropped it and rubbed his face off. Small phoenix worms were also a no-go; the mother showed absolutely no interest in the larger ones (while hunting down the single worm that I'd had in with them), and I don't think the babies were any different.
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Aug 9, 2016 00:57
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Anyone know anything about euthanizing bearded dragons? I was just hired as Educational Programming Director at a local science center, and I'm also in charge of their animals. They have a rescue that looks absolutely horrible - it was just shaking its limbs and laying there with its mouth half open, looks half starved, and it isn't really moving. Severe MBD it looks like. I don't know how they got it, but they definitely didn't make it better - there are a number of problems I have with the enclosures that I'm really going to have to work to fix. Also, is it ever acceptable for two ball pythons to be kept together? They have a pair that the previous owners kept together, and they've been together a long time without issue, but it set off warnings in my head right away. Both times I saw them, they were coiled up together so they're tolerating each other at the moment, at least.
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Aug 11, 2016 21:26
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I'll try waxworms, hopefully they'll take them! Cutting worms into very small pieces has been working, but I'd prefer to feed something that can survive in the tank more than a little bit. Bloodworms might work - I'll try them if everything else fails. I've heard they can be hard to feed, but I've seen them eating, so that's a plus. I'm going to try culturing slugs, which doesn't sound too hard.Cowslips Warren posted:With balls, it can vary. I know I used to keep a trio (not knowing it was a trio) together for a decade or so, and when I did separate them, they all went off feed. Back together, eating like crazy (they were fed separately, always.). Then we have an albino female who will only tolerate a male for a week or so for breeding before we have to pull him. Thanks, sounds like they'll probably be fine, then - they've been together a long time. I was worried that we'd have issues - they've been together for a very long time, it sounds like, so my boss didn't really see a problems and I didn't want to try to argue that we needed a whole new enclosure when our space is pretty limited if I didn't have to.
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Aug 16, 2016 17:28
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I don't really like feeding snakes mice, either, which was on thing that kept me from keeping any, but I ended up getting a brown snake (Storeria dekayi) and she eats worms. Really neat animal, does really well in captivity, definitely glad I decided to keep her (was originally for showing kids through work for one day, and it went so well that I hung onto her - we didn't have a snake; now I'm at a new job that has tons of them). She just had a bunch of babies, too - was gravid from being in the wild. She pays a lot of attention to me, since she knows where food comes from now.
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Aug 27, 2016 11:27
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I started working at a science center a few weeks ago and inherited a huge mess from the previous person with regards to the animal room. I've gotten most of the lizard issues straightened out, but we have a large enclosure with about 250 gallons of water and a dozen aquatic turtles (RES, YBS, and painteds) and it's way over capacity. I've tried reaching out to facebook groups in the area to find anyone competent to take some of the sliders off our hands (free), but I can't find anyone to take any from us. I'm working on moving their rocks so I can raise the water level which should help, but I'd still like to get down to 6-8 turtles in there - anyone know of groups or places where I could advertise that I might not have thought of? I'm in Spartanburg, SC.
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Oct 9, 2016 19:13
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I saw some pictures from a vendor and I think they just collected a variety of age classes - I don't think they've been in the pet trade long enough to have been captive bred.
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Mar 6, 2017 03:35
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This also applies to the salamander interstate trade ban, which was literally costing me over $1,000 a year from selling sirens and newts.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:46
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Spray bottles or misting system - cover part of the screen with plastic wrap as needed.
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Oct 2, 2017 20:02
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Depending on what you're dealing with, live plants will also be a major help in raising humidity. This isn't really an option for a lot of animals since they'll destroy your plants pretty quickly, though.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:20
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What about D. hydei fruit flies? I'm not sure the size of crickets you're needing, but they work well for a lot of the things I feed.
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Dec 25, 2017 19:25
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Agrajag posted:It would be so cool if I could buy actual housefly larvae for feeding You can - lots of places sell them online. As far as fruit flies, they're not a problem at all. Add calcium to a cup, tap them from container into cup, feed. They don't fly - they're either wingless or flightless. If you have problems with escapees, a piece of fruit in the animal's enclosure or a jar nearby with a little alcohol or fruit juice mixed with water and dish soap will attract and kill any that escape. Don't buy from Petco/smart, etc. Their cultures tend to have mites or be half dead. They also are more likely to revert to wildtype due to wild FFs getting in. Buy online (but not from Josh's Frogs - they've had problems) and the best way to save money is to culture them yourself. I make 9 cultures each week for ~$0.50 each, takes half an hour to an hour; 4 D. melanogaster (smaller, normal-sized FFs) and 5 D. hydei (larger, slower breeding but useful for larger animals). FF culturing is a bit of a pain but is really easy. Mix a big container of potato flakes (one box roughly) with a cup or two of powdered sugar and a cup of brewer's yeast (improves yield, may make flies more nutritious) - this is your dry mix; I like to store it in the freezer to prevent mites from getting in, but you don't have to. Take half a cup of dry mix, add 1/4 cup applesauce and 1/4 cup vinegar - I mix in quart mason jars, or you can buy plastic cups and lids to throw out. Microwave all your cups for a few minutes (to kill mites mostly, but can also change consistency of mix; isn't important) and then push some coffee filters or paper towels or excelsior (wood craft shavings things) into the mix to provide a place for the flies to pupate, and then add flies. Let it sit for 14-21 days (depending on temperature/species - melanos are ~14, hydei are ~18-21) and you've got a new culture. I do this every week, to make sure I have fresh cycles. It's a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than crickets.
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Dec 26, 2017 07:29
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Earthworms are nutritionally balanced and do not need gutloading.
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Mar 18, 2018 15:03
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If you want darts, I have a few leucs and azureus I'm not actively looking to sell and that should be available until I do make the effort.
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Jun 23, 2018 15:30
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Are tomato frogs still in the hobby? They weren't really captive bred and I don't think there are any more imports - could be mistaken.
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Jul 23, 2018 20:09
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A new species of three foot long salamander has been discovered in Florida and Alabama. It's a species of siren that had been known about, but hadn't been evaluated scientifically until now. Siren reticulata is a really cool animal - the gills are crazy, very different from other siren species, though I've been told that they shrink in captivity (with higher dissolved oxygen levels) so that they don't look much different from the gills of other sirens. The genus Siren is a complete mess - there are a number of cryptic species where genetic analysis has shown that the existing species should be broken into new species due to genetic differences, so this kind of came out of nowhere since this isn't a cryptic species, just a species that science hadn't really noticed. 
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Dec 7, 2018 16:54
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FreshFeesh posted:She’s been solo for the past year so I sure hope not! I don’t know if I could handle having baby lizard Jesus in my hands. There are a number of reptiles that can have virgin births - it's called parthenogenesis. Most lizards aren't known to do it, but I've heard of monitors and a handful of other species where the female will produce a viable offspring from an unfertilized egg - essentially she gives birth to a twin. There are a handful of species that are obligate parthenogenetics, with all female species. One common species in the pet trade that does occasionally have parthenogenetic births are ball pythons - it's just extremely rare. We actually had this happen at the science center I work at, and there were two babies that hatched. Unfortunately, one didn't make it and the other one got stolen, but it was a pretty neat experience.
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Mar 21, 2019 16:02
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Cless Alvein posted:Congrats on stumbling into a snake orgy! Yep! Garters (some species, at least) can have massive orgies, with dozens of snakes (usually a ton of snakes fighting over one female). What Psychepath saw was pretty tame for them, haha.
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May 24, 2019 17:07
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Bollock Monkey posted:I'd love to live somewhere it was normal to stumble over snakes just out and about. I've only seen a slow worm once and it was dead. Much of the US has abundant snakes if you know where to look. England . . . not so much. In the past three weeks, I've found five live copperheads (venomous), a Dekay's brown snake (harmless), a northern water snake (armless), and then two dead copperheads, a dead brown snake, a dead worm snake, two dead black rat snakes, and a dead unknown (probably BRS) on my nightly walk. Granted, I'm intentionally walking at a time when snakes are active on a road where snakes tend to cross, but it's been fun, and it's within a medium-sized city.
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May 25, 2019 03:51
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I work at a science center, and we recently got a $7,500 grant to improve the animal room. I have a bunch of small things I want to fix, but does anyone have any recommendations for what I can do with a large enclosure? It's about the size of a small shower stall - something like 5' x 5' x 8' or so, and right now it just has a pair of black rat snakes. Anyone have any suggestions for what might use the space better if I properly build it up?
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Jul 26, 2019 22:35
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