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I have a bunch of ball pythons and they're all pretty much dumb, fat rocks that eat and poo poo. None of them are affectionate, not even to each other. Watching them gently caress is like watching paint dry.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:02
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This thread needs more pictures. One of my dumb pet rocks. A lesser ball python. She just shed this morning. There was a tiny piece of shed stuck to the back of her neck (you can see it in the pic) but I wiped it off with a damp towel.
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Feb 13, 2015 17:07
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Binary Logic, that setup looks pretty good. It might be too big for a tiny ball python, but you can always add more hides and clutter to the enclosure. I've been using VE thermostats for a couple of years now and I'm happy with them. Balls don't need (or enjoy) lighting, so indirect sunlight is fine.
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Feb 15, 2015 20:07
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It's been theorized that snakes abandon an area when it smells too "snakey" because prey will avoid that area as well. Maybe try washing up her hides even if they don't look dirty. I always do a full enclosure cleaning, including hides and water bowls, when my snakes make a mess. And if they're on feeding strike or just slow poopers, I clean once every 3-4 weeks anyway.
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Feb 21, 2015 20:13
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I had a scary moment with my corn snake a few nights ago. I heard a strange thumping in one of my racks, so I checked it out and found my corn snake (who only goes in the rack when it's too cold for her to be in her big outdoor tank) thrashing around wildly with blood trickling from her mouth. She had a sharp shard of aspen caught in the back her mouth from when she ate earlier in the day. I think she was trying to work it loose, somehow made the problem worse instead, and completely flipped out. Which obviously didn't help either. I gently opened her mouth and pulled out the aspen, and she calmed down immediately. She seems fine now, back to normal mellow behavior, and the swelling has already gone down. I'm keeping a close eye on her now and if I see any signs of infection, she's going to the vet. gently caress aspen. All I can ever find locally is cheap, coarse, dusty poo poo filled with chunks and shards. Sometimes a brand seems halfway decent, but then the next bag sucks. I've tried several different brands and the only one I've found with consistent good quality is Nepco, but it's pricy and I can only find it online. So I spent the day yesterday switching every single one of my tubs to paper towels. I've used paper towels before and I'm not really impressed with them. Newspaper is an option, but it's ugly and stains my snakes' bellies. I might try cutting my own liners out of some kraft/butcher paper. What do you guys prefer for snake substrate?
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Feb 23, 2015 14:40
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Silver Nitrate posted:Ahhhh that's scary. I use Sani-chips, they are like little bitty squares of aspen. For my guys that need a little extra humidity, I sprinkle damp sphagnum moss on top. I've never tried sani-chips because I figured my snakes would end up gobbling a bunch of it with every meal, and maybe hoover some up into their windpipes for good measure. However, I trust an endorsement from Dr. Snake. freelop posted:Can snakes get constipated? Oh yeah, they can definitely get constipated. Sometimes they just go a while between poops, but you'll start seeing signs if they're actually constipated. One of my juvenile balls was constipated recently. Her back end became very swollen above the vent and she would lift her tail frequently as if about to poop. I helped her out by giving her 5-10 minute soaks in about two inches of warm water. Some people recommend a gentle ventral massage, but I just give her more exercise. After her soaks, I spread some towels out on the floor and let her crawl around on them for a while. After three rounds of soaks and crawls, she finally let out an enormous poop.
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Feb 28, 2015 16:29
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Bobbaganoosh posted:The legislation is a loving joke. Politwerking for votes. See also: The Simpsons' Bear Patrol. Best description I've ever heard. HEY VAPER posted:Switched her substrate to eco-earth because I didn't like the lovely huge woodchips she came with & I was having a hard time managing the humidity. I don't use eco-earth for my balls simply because I live in Florida, so any kind of damp substrate makes my enclosures way too humid. I only switch my girls to cypress mulch when they go into pre-lay shed until after they lay their eggs, and that's it. I know some people in less humid places who use eco-earth though. Thanks for the advice about the aspen stab wound. It's probably a bit late for direct wound treatment (which I didn't attempt intially because it's almost in her throat, I could barely even see it). At the time I did give her a brief soak in warm water, which she drank from, then switched her to a clean tub with paper towels and gave her a bowl of fresh water. She's been doing fine so luckily I think she's in the clear. It may have helped that I recently switched from using vinegar solution as a cleaner to F10SCXD, which is a vet-grade soap/disinfectant. I'm pretty particular about the cleanliness of my enclosures anyway. I never spot clean, that's nasty. Hell, I don't even dry off two clean tubs with the same towel.
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Mar 8, 2015 07:10
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I read somewhere that you should wait 2-3 days between feedings because it can take that long for a BP's digestive acids to fully replenish. Without enough acid, the digestive process slows down and the prey has time to rot in the snake's belly, creating a lot of nasty bacteria. Some of mine will give me the 'please feed me, I'm starving to death' puppy eyes not even five minutes after their last meal. I've learned to just ignore it if it hasn't been more than 3 days.
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Apr 8, 2015 20:58
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Eh. I've owned a beardie before and they are sorta high maintenance (for a reptile). It's definitely doable even for a beginner, but if I spent that many hours a day away from home every day, I personally wouldn't keep a beardie. Too much time spent feeding (and aquiring/dealing with insects) and cleaning. I think that snakes are better scaly pets for people who are short on free time. Edit: Speaking of snakes, I just picked up a pair of 2014 female pastel (50% possible het clown) ball pythons. I don't normally look twice at a pastel, but these two are beautiful examples. And it'll be sweet if either one proves out as het clown. I'll take some pics after they settle in a bit. snake and bake fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 12, 2015 |
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Apr 12, 2015 15:53
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If she was in a tub with siblings, she was probably stressed out to begin with. The young ones are often nervous anyway. Be patient, give the snake more time to get comfortable. I don't understand what you mean about moving her down a RUB size though. I get what a RUB is (Americans usually just call them tubs, I'm assuming you're not from the terms you're using). What size is she in now, and why are you planning on switching sizes? snake and bake fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Apr 18, 2015 |
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Apr 18, 2015 11:27
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Hood Ornament posted:Edit: A lot of captive reptiles are severely inbred, that's how you end up with morphs. Not always, and this is particularly untrue for most ball python morphs. Dominant morphs produce 50% morph offspring (of course I mean that statistically, not literally) no matter what you breed them to, so there's no reason for inbreeding.
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Apr 27, 2015 20:56
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Honey, my big pastel ball python, laid 8 eggs last week. She paired with two.different males (pinstripe and lesser pastel) so I have no idea what might hatch out.
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Jun 3, 2015 10:26
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Oh god, the smell of rotten rodents.  I've been using Big Cheese for a while now. The rodents I've gotten were clean, smelled fresh, and nicely packed in flat rows on styrofoam trays.
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Jun 5, 2015 10:48
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She might be looking for a place to lay her eggs. She'll lay infertile ones (slugs) even if she hasn't bred. Try offering her a laying box. Use something like a plastic container with a hole cut in the lid and a bit of damp substrate, like moss, inside.
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Jul 26, 2015 00:42
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Post a picture if you want, or just describe the setup. Mainly you want to be sure the snake has a good temperature gradient, meaning that one side of the enclosure should be warmer than the other. I aim for 82 on the cold side and 89 on the hot side. I use a temp gun but you can use any thermometer with a probe. A cheap indoor/outdoor or aquarium thermometer would work fine, but not the kind you stick on the wall of the enclosure. You want to monitor the surface temperature, not the temp of the air in the enclosure. The preferred heating method is heat tape or a mat under the enclosure. Ball pythons do not enjoy lights. They are not basking animals. UTH (under tank heat) sources, even those cheap mats from the pet store, need to be regulated because they will get way too hot if they're running full blast. A thermostat is ideal but you can get by with a plug-in lamp dimmer, using it to adjust the heat down to an appropriate level. Humidity is important too. If you can't keep the enclosure humid enough, the snake will have difficulty shedding. Around 60% is good. You can raise humidity by misting, switching to a larger water bowl, using a damper substrate (cypress, jungle mix, etc. as opposed to dry aspen or paper), or adding a humid hide filled with damp moss when you see a shed coming. Maintaining proper temperature and humidity can be very difficult if you're using an aquarium with a screen lid. Which is one reason why I prefer to use tubs. Apart from that, be sure the snake has at least two hides, one on the cold side and one on the hot side. They're most comfortable in hides that are very snug, with a single opening. A lot of people try to set up ball pythons as display animals with lots of cage decorations, but a happy ball python will usually spend the majority of its time in a hide and you won't see it anyway. Cage decorations like branches, fake plants, etc. might look nice but they'll make cleaning a real pain in the rear end. You're better off just keeping it simple. snake and bake fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Aug 2, 2015 |
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Aug 2, 2015 15:04
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You'll need to use some kind of soap. Dish soap or a 1:1 solution of white vinegar and water will work. I use veterinary-grade, nontoxic F10SC (disinfectant) and F10SCXD (disinfectant + cleaner). Because I take this poo poo way too seriously. 
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Aug 9, 2015 20:49
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I would really love to see a picture of your adorable baby snakes, Cowslip. 
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Aug 22, 2015 12:28
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Edit: Well, gently caress it, nevermind.
snake and bake fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Aug 25, 2015 |
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Aug 23, 2015 16:41
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I live in central FL, and know a few local herpers who make it their mission to eradicate invasives (like brown anoles and Cuban tree frogs) in their yard, to try to make a "safe haven" for the native species. Seems like a futile effort to me.
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Sep 4, 2017 14:12
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Are you sure you want to risk bug-eyes with a lesser/lesser pairing? Personally I'd get a pastave (since it wouldn't cost much more than a mojave) and cross my fingers for a nice pastel lesser/mojave BEL.
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Sep 21, 2017 21:24
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It's an issue that comes up sometimes with lesser/lesser (and lesser/butter) pairings. It doesn't always happen, but it's not uncommon. It's not a potentially lethal flaw like spider, but we don't really know if it causes any discomfort or vision problems. (I've heard they can also develop cataracts with age.) I've seen examples that range from mild and barely noticable, to very obvious and severe. Unfortunately since BELs are so desirable, many breeders ignore this flaw. I haven't heard of it happening when one or both parents are mojave. The downside (?) is that mojave BELs aren't as "clean," especially super mojaves. They tend to have a bit of pattern on the head and an overall purple tint. Personally I think it looks cool, but it may not be what you're looking for. Also not sure if the color fades away with age, like it has with my ivories. Either way, including pastel (or fire/vanilla) in the mix would produce cleaner looking hatchlings.
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Sep 22, 2017 14:48
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Yeah, my two cresties have tons of charisma, way more than my snake and bake fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Sep 30, 2017 |
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Sep 30, 2017 03:06
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ZarathustraFollower posted:So my girlfriend's gargoyle gecko is kind of an idiot. Or an rear end in a top hat, not really sure. Weird. I can't imagine his breeder was hand-feeding him like that. Maybe you could use a food cup holder that goes on the floor of the cage, rather than the ledge type, and just prop it up at an angle? Also, your hognose is totally rad. Cowslips Warren posted:Local herp store said they use the spray RID. Finding Provent a Mite with asap shipping is a bitch. Ugh, mites really suck, and it's a serious pain in the rear end to treat that many snakes and enclosures. I wouldn't put DE in their cages because it's so abrasive. I'd be afraid of it getting under their scales and being inhaled into their lungs. I would try Betadine soaks and a bit of mineral oil. You can get Betadine at a pharmacy. Dilute it with warm water until it's the color of medium-strength black tea. After the soak, use a q tip and some mineral oil to wipe the snake's eyes, heat pits, and the groove under the chin. Edit: I have about the same number of snakes, so I've been seriously considering how I'd treat them all if mites got past quarantine and spread into my collection. I think I'd use a modified evacuation procedure. I live in Florida, so evacuation is always a possiblility during hurricane season. I actually had to design an evacuation procedure as part of getting my Class III Wildlife permit, which is required for selling any reptiles in Florida. I would put all of my snakes into their transport bags and move them into another room. Then I'd treat the enclosures, which in my case are rack systems. (Probably with a bleach solution? Maybe RID or Provent a Mite.) When the racks have aired out and passed inspection, I'd start treating the snakes one at a time with the Betadine and mineral oil, even if I don't see any mites on them, and returning them to their enclosures. I'd use paper towels as substrate for a while so I could more easily see any mites. As the snake bags get emptied, I would put them in ziplock bags and later I'd soak the bags in bleach solution before washing them in soap and hot water. snake and bake fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Dec 23, 2017 |
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Dec 23, 2017 08:48
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Absolutely, yes. It's an old school antiseptic, used for treating small wounds or disinfecting skin.
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Dec 25, 2017 06:15
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I have a couple of cresties that like bugs as a supplement to their Pangea food, but they don't eat enough for me to keep an active insect colony. I just keep a container of live wax worms for them instead. Wax worms stay good for weeks if kept in the fridge.
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Mar 24, 2018 14:59
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Crested geckos are adorable and easy as heck to take care of. I think they're a perfect starter species for anyone able to maintain an enclosure under 82°F. I feed mine little smoothies made from powdered Pangea as their main diet, and give them crickets or waxworms as treats. After owning leopard geckos and beardies in the past, cresties are so much easier. It's nice not worrying about heat/UV sources, or having a large, steady supply of feeder insects.
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May 13, 2018 19:10
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PVC enclosures are awesome. They're relatively lightweight and easy to clean. They're a bit pricy but totally worth it. Check out AP, Reptile Basics, or Dragons4You.
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Jun 20, 2018 01:28
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I'm sure I've said it before, but I love my ball pythons. They're generally super chill snakes. Plus they're so easy that even with a full-time job, I have no trouble taking care of a breeding colony of about 16 BPs, with periodic increases. I produce 1-2 clutches per year so I've had up to 36 snakes after hatchings. My 2 crested geckos, despite being one of the easiest lizard species to keep, are more work than all of my BPs combined. And those geckos are still a breeze compared to the beardie and leopard geckos I've owned in the past. Some reptile owners enjoy a challenge, and there was a time that I did too, but I guess I'm beyond that point. I like my fat, lazy BPs and cresties. 
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Jul 2, 2018 01:40
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Just make sure you use a clamp to secure any heat lamps. I had a cat knock over an unsecured heat lamp once. I wasn't in the room at the time but luckily I was home. The lamp burned a nice round hole in the carpet before I smelled the smoke and found it.
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Aug 25, 2018 00:44
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 I also have a reoccuring nightmare where I'm trying to save my reptiles from a fire, but sometimes there's not enough time to grab them all and I have to choose which ones to save. 
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Sep 2, 2018 00:25
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So, I have kind of an odd question. I bought a magnetic cave for one of my cresties. But it's rough and kind of grainy to the touch, even after being washed. Tiny specks of whatever it's made of come off on my fingers when I touch it. Since my cresties love to lick up water when I spray their cage, I want to coat this cave with something so my girl isn't licking up random specks of mystery cave material. Any suggestions for a non-toxic coating? I was thinking of trying Modge Podge.
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Oct 1, 2018 17:53
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Yeah, it's a Magnaturals hideaway. I also have the Exoterra canopy cave, which had a razor sharp edge on the inside of the opening that had to be awkwardly sanded down. It's in my male's cage, and he loves it dearly. I got the Magnaturals this time because I was hoping to get a cave I wouldn't have to gently caress around with so much before I could use it. Didn't really work out, though. 
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Oct 2, 2018 00:44
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Plasti Dip is supposedly non-toxic, but the MSDS makes me want to steer clear. Especially compared to the Modge Podge. Aquarium silicone is an interesting idea, but it's a fairly big cave. Silicone seems like it would be thick and hard to spread.
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Oct 2, 2018 01:58
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Mappo posted:My lil buddy has snake mites. I am going to clean out his cage and disinfect everything with zoo med wipe out. But I need a mite spray and the local pets stores don't seem to carry the reptile mite spray. You can soak your snake in diluted betadine. I've heard that a few drops of Dawn dishsoap in water works too. Just don't dunk the snake's head. If he has any mites on his head, you can use a q-tip to apply a little bit of mineral oil around the eyes and heatpits. Don't forget the little crease under the chin, mites love to hide there! I'd keep him on paper towels until the mites are gone, just to make it easier to see and eliminate the mites.
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Oct 7, 2018 14:12
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TheNothingNew posted:Modge Podge stays tacky for-goddamn-ever and is water-based, so every time you spray the cage it'll absorb the moisture and revert to wet glue. Crap. Well, thanks for the heads-up on the Modge Podge. I'm probably being way too concerned about the gritty cave anyway, but that's typical for me when it comes to my reptiles. On another note, I have ivory ball pythons, which are also white. You can tell when they're about to shed because they turn pinkish, except for the eyes, which turn cloudy blue. (I actually have a harder time telling when my super pastels are about to shed than the ivories.) You can also see any stuck shed on them pretty easily. It looks a bit dingy/greyish and stands out against the white scales, which are extra bright after a shed.
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Oct 8, 2018 19:14
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This is a pretty good care guide to start with. Just don't buy a ball python from a pet store! Order from MorphMarket, look for a local breeder, or buy from a reptile show. Here is a list of upcoming reptile events.
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Oct 16, 2018 13:33
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I can recommend Medusa's Morphs in the Chicago area. I have a lesser het clown from them and he's gorgeous. Arrived plump and healthy and eating like a champ. Medusa's lesser and clown lines are top notch.
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Oct 16, 2018 14:38
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Ball python breeder weighing in. Spider balls are hosed up and should not be bred. I've been saying this for YEARS. I remember when spiders were new and still selling for thousands. Breeders kept quiet about spider wobble for way too long. Even long after it became common knowledge, so many breeders would deny it or try to argue about it. Spiders are my dipstick for judging breeders. If someone breeds spiders, they obviously care more about profit or appearance than the health of their snakes. I have zero respect for that. A truly responsible breeder who wants to produce healthy snakes would never breed a morph with a very well-known and completely unavoidable neurological defect.
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Mar 21, 2019 15:52
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I use normal newspaper for most of my reptiles, it's no big deal. I tried brown kraft paper at one point but it was far less absorbent than I expected, causing wet urates to run all over the place, plus it kept curling like crazy because I live in a very humid area.
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Mar 24, 2019 02:37
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 18:50 |
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snake and bake posted:I use normal newspaper for most of my reptiles, it's no big deal. I tried brown kraft paper at one point but it was far less absorbent than I expected, causing wet urates to run all over the place, plus it kept curling like crazy because I live in a very humid area. Actually, on further consideration, newspaper doesn't work as well in a tank. I use tubs and keep plenty of spares around, so I don't spot-clean, I just change out the entire tub if it gets dirty. Newspaper is great for that. However, with a tank, it would be a lot more work to do a full clean every time. For a tank I'd go with cypress or aspen instead, it's much better for spot-cleaning. Cypress if you need more humidity, aspen otherwise.
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Mar 24, 2019 21:34
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