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Cement board looks way way better. Vinyl looks really cheap IMO.
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Feb 6, 2016 02:00
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Ok so the RMC thing. I'd ask the inspector for a clarification, because running that is terrible. Here, rmc is required for slab rough in -but only for the concrete penetration-. So the electrician uses a female pvc adapter to go from pvc to a short piece of store bought threaded rmc (12" or so, whatever gets them the necessary height for the slab. Sometimes a rigid 90° is used). Then they adapt back to pvc or flex or whatever they need for that location. At the very least, he should allow you to run pvc in the ditch and adapt to rmc when you turn up the ends.
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Sep 22, 2016 04:55
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No I think you have it. I'm sorry your inspector is anal, because that's nuts. I know at your shop, you're going up to an LB and then through the wall, how about on the house end? Straight up into a panel, into the attic, or...? Just asking because you could probably find pre-threaded pieces and coupling them together (if necessary). What kind of pipe threading stuff did you get? It's not fun threading that stuff by hand, and I had the "right" professional dies with a 2' ratchet handle (we had a power threader but it's bulky didn't go to every job).
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Sep 22, 2016 15:30
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Well you've got good poo poo to work with, drat I hate you have to buy all that for one job. Wish I was closer, I could find one to borrow for you. Was it you that had the pipe layout that has to turn like 3 outside 90's to run around the perimeter of your house? Only thing I can add (and you may be planning this) is I'd probably turn every corner with a LB. Pipe 90's don't really like to turn an outside corner like that; it'll stick way off the wall. Also the LB will be a handy pull box.
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Sep 22, 2016 15:57
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I think you have a solid plan there. And by the time you're done, you'll have run more rmc than probably 50% of electricians. 
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Sep 22, 2016 16:56
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No, no thread sealant that I'm aware of. Maybe where you go from rmc to pvc, to help keep water out of the underground part. And you bring up a good point, that conduit run should be grounded to your EGC at some point. This is in case a conductor breaks or rubs and touches the metal conduit, it will trip and not be sitting there hot. Both sides of metal conduit (on either side of the pvc underground run) need to be grounded. If you run metal conduit all the way to the panels on either end (which are grounded), that is sufficient. If there's a metal junction box where you come through the wall, ground it there.
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Sep 22, 2016 17:53
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If the ground rod is attached to your EGC (the green wire you're pulling in), that's fine. And yes, moisture in buried pipe is unavoidable. Limiting direct penetration where you can is the best you can do.
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Sep 22, 2016 18:20
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LOL @ the conduit run up the window frame..That's interesting. Also the absurdity of running this in rmc when your security light is exposed romex outdoors (or so it appears). As for the pipe fitment quandary, the solution you came up with is a method that happens sometimes, but generally not when you're running in one direction like your project. Cut the pipe to fit, then either rotate the existing 90 away from the wall, or take the strap loose temporarily if that won't work. Install pipe section and rotate back to wall/reinstall strap.
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Sep 26, 2016 00:00
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I would install all the way to the 90 in question, then bow the conduit away from the wall enough to get the 90 screwed on. Temporarily unstrap as necessary. There's more play there than you think. I believe when you get there it will be more clear. And I'm sure you were gonna do it this way, but the easiest way to measure those is to first install the 90 on a piece of pipe, hold it in place and mark it to length. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 01:23
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Is that the only panel in the house? Edit: downloaded the full image, if that's your only panel I would suggest both upgrading, and realize if you open that panel you have full utility fault current on the bars with no protection on your side. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Sep 29, 2016 |
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Sep 29, 2016 17:14
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I'm including running the conduit into that panel. Frankly, attaching the wires is the easiest part. The most hazardous is finishing the conduit run (which the panel cover must be removed for) and pulling in the conductors to the panel. From my perspective, you are absorbing the more dangerous work and hiring an electrician for the pie job at the end. Not saying you can't or shouldn't DIY, but realize the bars have zero protection from utility level fault current. Edit: if your plan is to pop though the wall and pre-fab but not connect the LB/nipple, and leave the wire hanging (or coiled up outside) for the electrician, that's cool. Just mind any conductors in the wall like you say, -especially- the supply for that panel. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 29, 2016 |
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Sep 29, 2016 17:56
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I'd prefer to let others who regularly spec out resi panels answer that for you, I think kid sinister is following this thread. I want to see your conduit run though, I doubt we'll see any other rigid pipe on these here forums (except for a service mast).
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Sep 29, 2016 18:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Maybe if I could have gotten a 4" nipple to go between the two 45 elbows (instead of the 5" I used) it would be a little straighter, but it's not a huge issue.  Anyhow, looks good. The part that annoys you would annoy me a little, but I don't have to look at it and it's certainly safe. Also, see that hinged cover below your meter? I think what you have there is a combination meter panel with a main breaker in it...And probably more breaker space that would be super convenient for your new outdoor circuit if the panel hadn't been stucco'ed in. However, if there is a main breaker outside, you can turn it off and terminate your pipe inside without hazard (so long as you ensure not hitting something inside the wall). angryrobots fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Sep 30, 2016 |
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Sep 30, 2016 00:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I tried that, actually. The pipe clamp and pipe threader combined take up enough pipe that the minimum length of pipe I can work with is maybe 5-6". I guess you're done with this junk though. I admire you for diy'ing something that most wouldn't. quote:I think I probably still want to get a licensed electrician to handle the panel hookup though. A little extra peace of mind, plus I can pick their brain about other electrical stuff while they're here.
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Sep 30, 2016 01:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wow, really? It takes me at least 15 minutes to hacksaw through a pipe and then thread it. Even if you have appropriate power tools to cut the pipe, I can't imagine that being cost-effective vs. dropping the $7 or whatever on a storebought nipple. I guess it makes more sense if you'd have to run to the hardware store, but if you do this professionally I'd expect you'd buy such things in bulk so you'd always have them on-hand. Did you have to make your own couplings too? But yeah he was cheap. Part of why I don't work there, or do commercial work anymore. 
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Sep 30, 2016 03:35
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Yeah that's a better idea, lol. It's been a long time ok. :p
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Oct 1, 2016 17:57
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It is totally fine to change direction as you describe, with a 4x4 junction box.
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Oct 4, 2016 03:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Actually, higher priority is probably to improve my tool and lumber storage situation, since the workshop's a complete mess and I can't really clean it up until I have homes for everything. Also nice wooden things.
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Jan 8, 2017 04:32
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 01:31 |
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Congrats on everything!
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Apr 20, 2017 04:09
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