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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:how does it more accurately represent the real mileage? I guess one could make a case that the difference between 300,000 miles and anything above that doesn't really matter to most, where if it was to do a full rollover there'd be the potential for someone to think a high mileage one was in fact low mileage. Constantly resetting to 300k is better than resetting to 0 in that case. That's a real stretch of logic but it's the best I can come up with.
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Apr 12, 2024 19:36
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:how does it more accurately represent the real mileage? Because if it reset to 0 or 100k or 200k it would be less representative.
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Apr 12, 2024 20:20
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I'm considering a set of aftermarket wheels for my WRX and I'd need a hub centric ring for the majority of wheels I was looking at but in browsing Subaru forums there were people arguing (of course) that you should skip the rings and just buy wheels with the correct bore. From the handful of wheels I've been interested in they don't sell them in the OEM bore so I was wondering what wheels other than OEM would even have that size since they would want them to fit most cars?
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Apr 12, 2024 23:42
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wolrah posted:I guess one could make a case that the difference between 300,000 miles and anything above that doesn't really matter to most, where if it was to do a full rollover there'd be the potential for someone to think a high mileage one was in fact low mileage. Constantly resetting to 300k is better than resetting to 0 in that case. Personally with a digital odometer my preference would be make it count up till maximum readout, then roll over but start flashing. Wouldn't even be hard to implement in code and would add zero cost to each unit after that.
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Apr 13, 2024 02:10
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If speedometers can go to 180mph in cars that rarely see 60, we should have 7 digit odometers. Imagine that flex, “oh, your odometer only goes to 999,999? “
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Apr 13, 2024 04:35
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Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:31
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Pollyanna posted:Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit. That could be any car if you have the money and the interest. You may have trouble finding parts for rarer cars, but parts will be available forever for mainstream cars. What you're describing is "restoration." Every few decades, strip it down to bare metal, take apart everything that can be taken apart, and replace or repair everything that's worn. Then put it all back together and drive it for a couple more decades.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:36
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Pollyanna posted:Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit. it’s called being an AI poster, and yes, as long as you protect your car from rust there’s theoretically no limit to what you can baby and replace. There are Honda Accords and whatnot hitting a million miles. The biggest limiting factor for a car where you live is rust and nothing else comes close. Most good cars in New England ultimately succumb to rust way before they completely fail mechanically in such a way where you couldn’t hypothetically drop in a used motor or transmission or do a rebuild or whatever if your drivetrain suffered some catastrophic issue. Most cars never even get to that point, they simply get too far-gone with rust.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:41
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Maybe I’m just really bad at sourcing parts for my existing car.  trilobite terror posted:it’s called being an AI poster, and yes, as long as you protect your car from rust there’s theoretically no limit to what you can baby and replace. There are Honda Accords and whatnot hitting a million miles. The biggest limiting factor for a car where you live is rust and nothing else comes close. Ugh, yeah, I’m honestly surprised my Civic hasn’t flaked away into nothing by now. But drat it needs a hell of a deep clean and some new hubcaps n poo poo. Though supposedly Civics are disposable starter cars, no? Are they intended to be scrapped rather than maintained or upgraded? Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 17:43
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Shamelessly quoting my invisible post from months ago as I am changing back to my summer tires and just saw that I have a broken coil spring on my Corolla. Thus, this repair needs to be moved significantly up the priority list. The TLDR is as below. Is Gabriel brand stuff better than Monroe, or FCS in the quick strut department? wesleywillis posted:2009 Corolla, 2.4l engine, manual trans.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:45
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Pollyanna posted:Maybe I’m just really bad at sourcing parts for my existing car. How does the undercarriage look? You can replace subframe and control arms/etc (and you probably should do the latter along with the bushings and suspension after enough time and miles) and, for a valuable enough car, there’s theoretically no limit to the amount of sheet metal you can replace if you’re willing to pay for it or do the labor yourself, but yeah undercarriage rot is gonna be what ultimately decides your car’s longevity in most cases unless you like total it before then You can be proactive/reactive about extending its life now by regularly rinsing it weekly/bimonthly in the wintertime and maybe looking into some kind of rust protectant.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:54
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I don’t even know how to get under a car to check. I’m extremely car ignorant. Best I can do is change a wheel if necessary (and my spare is currently stuck under a rusted and broken nut I can’t undo). This sort of stuff would definitely be easier if I had a garage or something, but I just have an apartment with a 4-car parking lot out the back. Hell, I patted myself on the back last winter for figuring out that I could just go to Autozone and buy new wiper blades when my old ones got worn out instead of asking them to change them out whenever I went in for maintenance.
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Apr 13, 2024 17:58
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I mean, just like look underneath it. Look at the bits connected to the wheels and also look at the underbody. Is it like hella rusty where big chunks are breaking off or is it relatively fine? Maybe take a couple of pictures and show us.
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Apr 13, 2024 18:00
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Pollyanna posted:Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit. The richest person I know on a day-to-day basis, who was the CEO of a small pharma company that was bought out by a gigantic pharma company, is still driving the 1994 Ford Expedition he bought new 30 years ago. I think it has about 900,000 miles on it. There's not an original part left on it besides the frame and some of the body. He likes it. He doesn't want anything else. He also still lives in the 2-story, 4-bedroom house right along a busy main road that he raised his kids in, even though he's probably got a 9-digit net worth by now. He's that kind of guy. He arranges his life so he can feel like it's 1993 forever.
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Apr 13, 2024 18:03
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Pollyanna posted:Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit. First-generation Mustang Air-cooled VW Arguably, you can build an entire car from the available parts alone, if you have a mind to. One of the main reasons I stick with vehicles built before 1974 is the ability to repair them. It of course does depend on the car. 1gen Camaros are another that would work. Probably the ultimate would be a Checker Marathon.
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Apr 13, 2024 18:31
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trilobite terror posted:I mean, just like look underneath it. Look at the bits connected to the wheels and also look at the underbody. Is it like hella rusty where big chunks are breaking off or is it relatively fine? Ehh… https://youtu.be/AcvlgX2uNNY https://youtu.be/DaXjD6grzCg It’s getting there. Under the hood: https://youtu.be/EDmQvPfT0kw https://youtu.be/S6Q9YN108zk If it matter. PainterofCrap posted:First-generation Mustang Maybe I should invest in my car education with a My Summer Car playthrough Eric the Mauve posted:The richest person I know on a day-to-day basis, who was the CEO of a small pharma company that was bought out by a gigantic pharma company, is still driving the 1994 Ford Expedition he bought new 30 years ago. I think it has about 900,000 miles on it. There's not an original part left on it besides the frame and some of the body. He likes it. He doesn't want anything else.  That guy’s got it figured out.
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Apr 13, 2024 18:32
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PainterofCrap posted:First-generation Mustang I’m fairly certain someone could build a VIN-less Mustang from the Jeg’s and Summit catalogs alone.
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Apr 13, 2024 18:40
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Full Collapse posted:I’m fairly certain someone could build a VIN-less Mustang from the Jeg’s and Summit catalogs alone. I've heard that too. How the gently caress would that even work? I guess it would vary by country/ state etc, but could someone do that and then legally register and drive it? Would it get a kit car title?
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Apr 13, 2024 18:46
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Pollyanna posted:Ehh… That looks really good, tbh. Worst case scenario it looks like some of the bolts and some of the fasteners could use a cleaning or replacement eventually. Maybe some of the subframe components could use an eventual sandblasting and respray, but not for a while Other than that just keep the car clean and rust/saltfree. Don’t let it sit covered in salt for the whole winter. Make sure there aren’t any hidden rusty pockets in the chassis or spots where the salt and grime accumulate. If there’s surface rust on the body, get it looked at and make sure it doesn’t spread or go deep into the metalwork TBH if you take basic care of the car, get your oil changes done in a timely fashion, and keep it clean I see no reason why it can’t comfortably last you at least another decade, maybe way more. How many miles does it have?
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Apr 13, 2024 19:01
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Pollyanna posted:Ehh… To me that all seems "crusty but structurally sound". The only real problem is you're at the point where all of the paint on things like your control arms has already failed, so they're going to continue to rot and may eventually become unusable from rust alone. But, control arms are also wear items that can be replaced easily and you can buy them fully loaded so you're getting fresh bushings and ball joints at the same time. wesleywillis posted:I've heard that too. I would assume that's an option, since functionally it's no different than someone building a Cobra kit car, and it's probably the most legal option as well. However, unlike a Cobra, there are lots of Mustangs and VWs (and every other "can build it from a catalog" car out there - tri-five Chevy, Camaro, C10, etc) in near-unrestorable condition. I've seen people selling a rusty C10 cab with a VIN tag and a title for a bit over scrap value, and the VIN tag and title are the only parts that end up on the resulting truck. This is legally questionable / a ship of Theseus issue; if done poorly, it looks like trying to re-VIN a stolen vehicle. In practice... this poo poo happens all the time and I suspect as long as it's done well, it gets through.
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Apr 13, 2024 19:12
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Pollyanna posted:
Important thing to note: a car isn't a PC. You can't swap a motor as easily as you can swap a graphics card. If you have, say, a 2014 Honda Civic, all the parts you could easily replace will be designed for a 2011-2014 Honda Civic. If you want to upgrade the suspension, you'll have to find companies that specifically make suspension parts for a 2011-2014 Civic. You can't decide you want Mercedes suspension and a big Ford V8 and the all wheel drive system out of a Subaru WRX without doing significant custom fabrication and probably dropping six figures on a four figure car. If you want a modular buy-it-for-life car, your best bet is something they made a billion of. Toyota Corolla or Ford F-150 or something like that. There will be parts available for decades.
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Apr 13, 2024 19:22
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To clarify for the goon asking about keeping a car going forever - it's just that the rate of failure gets so high when the car is extremely old that the value isn't there - it's more economical to buy a newer vehicle at some point. Even the most economical car with available parts will eventually hit a point where the two lines cross and it's not worth your money.
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Apr 13, 2024 19:38
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I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags.
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Apr 13, 2024 19:56
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You will be able to get parts for a 1965 Mustang for the next 200 years. But Biden is going to ban gasoline so you’ll have to put an electric power plant in it.
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Apr 13, 2024 20:03
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The best answer is the Gruman LLV, aka the mail truck. Iirc they came out in 1986 or there about, all aluminum so they don't rust, dead simple drive train. To bad they're dangerous unfun poo poo boxes. Good mail truck for the time though.
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Apr 13, 2024 20:22
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I started doing the rear disc brakes on my 2016 Ford F150 without putting the truck in brake maintenance mode, mostly because I didn't know it existed. So I got the brakes all apart. I need to withdraw the calipers to get the new pads over the new rotors. So I looked up the procedure online since I've never done pads with an electronic parking brake before. At this point I put the truck in brake maintenance mode and the dash now says "Parking Brake Malfunction Service Now". What the hell do I do? Edit: I just got squirted with brake fluid from the rear right caliper, the side with the destroyed rotor. It squirted from between the rubber boot and piston. Do I have a bad caliper too? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Apr 13, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 22:21
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Hey thread. My stupid 2020 Chevy is acting up again. Used torque with a scanner and it looks like my "throttle" is up near 30 even when the car is off? My radiator fan is running nonstop after the car is off. It's like 75f here today, but the car was off for like 20 minutes and the fan stayed on. This happened before but when I brought it in they said my battery was on the way out. When I got a new battery it seemed to have gone away, til now. I replaced the throttle body after getting a p0299 (I think?) Code, and I haven't gotten that code since. But now this. Frustrated.
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Apr 13, 2024 22:58
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2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport 90k miles well maintained I drove it all around town this morning, highway, stop and go, no problems at all. Got home, parked it in driveway. I get in a few hours later, start it, put it in reverse and the car vibrates/shakes in reverse and drive. I turned it off and on again, same thing. Took other car instead. What the heck? Googling says it could be a bad coil pack and to disconnect them one at a time while the engine is running to find the bad one. Is that a safe thing to try? Edit: And it’s fine now an hour later…..?? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 13, 2024 23:26
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Pollyanna posted:Speaking of upgrading, I got to thinking about longevity. Is there such a thing as a modular buy-it-for-life car? I like the idea of getting a solid reliable vehicle and going full Ship of Theseus on it, replacing any old or worn out part with newer compatible ones. I know that cars have a lifespan and everything dies eventually, but maybe there’s some enjoyment and cost savings to be had out of continuous upgrades and replacements instead of buying a new one every ten to fifteen years or some expensive bullshit. Several goons here have done it over the ages. Leperflesh posted:I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags. Twenty year old cars have 20 some odd computers in them. L322 rangies based on the first gen x5(2003-2005) iirc had 23 on board. I once met a person that put their battery in backwards taking all of them plus the water cooled alternator out. In 2011. Pretty sure it was a write off. yamdankee posted:2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport 90k miles well maintained Don't unplug the coils while its running. That's not kind to the pcm. Try instead to pull pending misfire dtcs and counts off the pcm. Old coils tend to flake out when heat soaked. kid sinister posted:I started doing the rear disc brakes on my 2016 Ford F150 without putting the truck in brake maintenance mode, mostly because I didn't know it existed. So I got the brakes all apart. I need to withdraw the calipers to get the new pads over the new rotors. So I looked up the procedure online since I've never done pads with an electronic parking brake before. At this point I put the truck in brake maintenance mode and the dash now says "Parking Brake Malfunction Service Now". Forscan may cover resetting the epb system. There is not supposed to be brake fluid there. You'd have a soft pedal/loss of reservoir level too so also check that.
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Apr 14, 2024 01:35
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cursedshitbox posted:Forscan may cover resetting the epb system. There is not supposed to be brake fluid there. You'd have a soft pedal/loss of reservoir level too so also check that. Yeah that truck is going to the shop after I do my taxes. So is that a confirmed bad caliper then? That would explain the error message.
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Apr 14, 2024 01:53
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hark posted:Hey thread. My stupid 2020 Chevy is acting up again. Since it's likely a digital throttle I would look into whether there's some calibration you're supposed to have done when you replaced it.
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Apr 14, 2024 02:12
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VelociBacon posted:Since it's likely a digital throttle I would look into whether there's some calibration you're supposed to have done when you replaced it. Came pre-calbirated and I did that swap a couple months ago at this point. I tried taking out the fan relays and putting them back in and that seems to have fixed it for now? I hope my ecu isn't hosed and that I just need (a) new relay(s)
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Apr 14, 2024 03:16
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kid sinister posted:Yeah that truck is going to the shop after I do my taxes. So is that a confirmed bad caliper then? That would explain the error message. My father in law had this happen on a similar model year Edge. The error is because you didn’t put it in service mode. He had to get it towed to a dealership to be reset. (You could probably do it with FORSCAN, as mentioned earlier)
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Apr 14, 2024 03:23
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Leperflesh posted:I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags. I would rather institute harsh legislation to force all these road queens into the trash compactor. I think 30 years for a modern car made after 2015 or so is probably very generous.
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Apr 14, 2024 07:24
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Anyone have opinions or recs for wall mounted tire racks? Just looking for something to store winters and summers, eight tires total.
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Apr 14, 2024 14:35
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I have a 2008 Prius and I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance for oil changes. However, since I WFH, I mainly just drive to Costco and the grocery store. I last changed the oil in November 2021 but I've only put 4,000 miles on the car since. After a recent 800 mile round trip to see the eclipse, I checked the dip stick and oil levels were a bit low, though I still got 50+ mpg for the trip; the 4,000 miles includes that trip. My questions are: 1) If I don't put on many miles, how often should I change my oil? 2) Should I do a full oil/filter change, or can I just add oil? I have 1.5 qt left in my 5 qt jug from the last oil change.
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Apr 15, 2024 00:08
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Every year. Do the full change. Only add if you're low
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Apr 15, 2024 00:17
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I'm trying to find a head unit for my minivan (2019 Dodge Grand Caravan though I don't think it particularly matters), and I have no idea what a reputable site or brand is. Anything I should look for/avoid?
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Apr 15, 2024 02:42
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big black turnout posted:I'm trying to find a head unit for my minivan (2019 Dodge Grand Caravan though I don't think it particularly matters), and I have no idea what a reputable site or brand is. Anything I should look for/avoid? Can't go wrong with Crutchfield.com. Their "Find what fits my car" section is excellent.
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Apr 15, 2024 02:45
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a 2008 Prius and I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance for oil changes. However, since I WFH, I mainly just drive to Costco and the grocery store. It takes me about three years to put 4000 mikes on my antique. I change the oil every other year although an annual change would probably be better. When you run the oil up to temp, acids form and when it sits, the oil continues to oxidize / get darker. Another aging juice: brake fluid. I have to cycle out my brake fluid every three years because it starts absorbing water the minute the seal is broken on the bottle. Unlike my father, I am not a chemist, someone qualified please feel free to chime in. Old-car maintenance is more time- than mileage-based. It's a bit weird. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Apr 15, 2024 |
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Apr 15, 2024 04:33
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