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The big motivator for me to do oil changes on a baseline time schedule and a secondary mileage schedule is that you'll get some condensation from winter weather as the sun comes up and goes down over the winter, putting some water in your oil. Maybe this is old wives' tales, I don't know. I don't drive that much, but i generally do a "the trees are sprouting leaves" change to get the winter oil out, and a "kids are running around in halloween costumes" change because i've probably put summer miles on.
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Apr 15, 2024 06:45
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Reminds me it's time to do an oil change, or maybe three. Also looks like I need a new battery. I was gonna drive to work today in my Saab and it made a millenium falcon like sound as I tried to start. Battery has run down totally more than once over winter storage and it's real bad for batteries to get run down like that.
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Apr 15, 2024 07:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:Reminds me it's time to do an oil change, or maybe three. Also looks like I need a new battery. I was gonna drive to work today in my Saab and it made a millenium falcon like sound as I tried to start. Battery has run down totally more than once over winter storage and it's real bad for batteries to get run down like that. Here's my old man trick if you have issues with dying batteries in vehicles you rarely drive. google '10 watt car solar panel' and as long as your cigarette lighter socket is always hot (like a phone charger works with the car off, meaning its directly wired to the battery) these will keep your battery in tip top shape. Even with winter and clouds.  I keep one of these jammed on my dash and plugged into the lighter socket on my Expedition, and sometimes I go 4-6 months without driving it. Cranks perfect every time. They're 20-30 bucks and will amortize into battery replacement costs over a year. You only need a few milliamps to keep a lead-acid nicely maintained, and these will provide that and then some. And they won't do any overchargey battery boiling stuff either.
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Apr 15, 2024 07:49
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kid sinister posted:Can't go wrong with Crutchfield.com. Their "Find what fits my car" section is excellent. Thanks, I'd come across them but wasn't sure if they were good
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Apr 15, 2024 07:50
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Jonny 290 posted:Here's my old man trick if you have issues with dying batteries in vehicles you rarely drive. google '10 watt car solar panel' and as long as your cigarette lighter socket is always hot (like a phone charger works with the car off, meaning its directly wired to the battery) these will keep your battery in tip top shape. Even with winter and clouds. I wonder if that would work indoors with just the light from the lamps. I daily this car in summer and in winter it sits in a heated garage, so not much sunlight, which is exacerbated by the fact that in deep winter the sun rises at 10AM and sets at 2PM.
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Apr 15, 2024 08:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:I wonder if that would work indoors with just the light from the lamps. I daily this car in summer and in winter it sits in a heated garage, so not much sunlight, which is exacerbated by the fact that in deep winter the sun rises at 10AM and sets at 2PM. If it’s indoors just get a battery maintainer this is a solved problem
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Apr 15, 2024 15:32
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I actually cobbled together my own from a regular battery charger and a smart power controller, so it could charge the battery an hour every week (or some other timer). Unfortunately I disconnected the charger and used it for electrolysis stuff and then didn't put it back.
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Apr 15, 2024 16:10
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lovely pic, but anyone know what this thing is? Had Mexican plates and the badge seemed to say “DAC” but as far as I can tell there isn’t a company by that name that makes compact sedans.
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Apr 15, 2024 18:19
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Looks like a JAC J7 electric.
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Apr 15, 2024 18:29
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Deteriorata posted:Looks like a JAC J7 electric. It's definitely a JAC J7 but it is certainly the 1.5T - it has exhaust outlets
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Apr 15, 2024 18:54
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Looking for some tips and tricks to diagnose my stereo issue. 2003 Tahoe LT with the Bose sound system. The speakers do not work. Radio deck turns on and the relevant fuses look good. The issue started a couple months ago when I left my driver side window open and it rained overnight. The window controls on the door and the speakers stopped working at the same time. I replaced the wiring harness for the door, and now the windows work, but still no sound from the speakers. Some googling points to maybe the amp being the issue, but I'm hoping there's a way to test the amp without having to take apart the whole console.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:12
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oh dope posted:Looking for some tips and tricks to diagnose my stereo issue. Just to clarify, NONE of the speakers work? I would be looking for more fuse locations. My aftermarket head unit has a fuse literally on the back of the head unit, I didn't think any OEM head units did though.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:21
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VelociBacon posted:Just to clarify, NONE of the speakers work? I would be looking for more fuse locations. My aftermarket head unit has a fuse literally on the back of the head unit, I didn't think any OEM head units did though. Not a one, not even a little hiss of sound. I'll have to double check for more fuse locations.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:27
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In general, do standard batteries or AGMs last longer? My battery appears to be failing (~11.8v in the morning) and these vehicles (GMT900, '12 Yukon) are apparently known for eating batteries. I'm flip-flopping between buying the AGM version or the standard, and I'm not sure if my motivation is to try to have it last longer or to make sure it fails in warranty 
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Apr 15, 2024 19:36
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a 2008 Prius and I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance for oil changes. However, since I WFH, I mainly just drive to Costco and the grocery store.
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Apr 15, 2024 19:39
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Josh Lyman posted:Follow up, is Kirkland Signature full synthetic comparable to Mobil 1 Extended Performance? You'd have to do a deep dive into Bob Is the Oil Guy but I'd have no issue running any full synth for 10K miles with a good filter.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:00
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C-Bangin' it 
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A shop I took my car to for an oil change and tire rotation was unable to rotate my tires because the lug nuts expanded and their bit won't fit. They encouraged me to get no-cap or capless lug nuts and would install them and do the tire rotation for free. I just have no idea what I'm shopping for. All I know is that I need M12 x 1.5 lug nuts for a 2012 Ford Escape. If they explained exactly what to get, I failed to listen or forgot. My expectation is the lug nuts won't have a cap and will be completely open ended.
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Apr 15, 2024 21:45
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Yeah...and a ugh... Believe it or not they make sockets for expanded lug nuts. And it is a PITA.
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Apr 15, 2024 22:14
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Replace those pieces of poo poo ASAP. The easiest thing I’ve found is chiseling off the outside coating and fitting the next closest socket to the inner copper alloy nut
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Apr 15, 2024 22:53
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I'll probably put in another more detailed question in the Jeep thread if it continues to be an issue and/or the warranty stuff doesn't cover it if it's worse than I'm hoping 2016 grand Cherokee with hid headlights, both are suddenly dim as hell to the point of uselessness. The fact that both went out at the same time is concerning. Given how expensive the assembly is I thought I'd try sucking it up and swapping bulbs out and some minor wiring checks. The standard xenon bulbs i'm assuming it already has in the assembly is a 9005, but it looks like there's an led equivalent. Is it comparable and actually compatible to use the LEDs, or is this some confusion regarding that between all the different headlights? Are they swappable or is this something where you need to mess with voltages somewhere to change bulb types like that
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Apr 15, 2024 22:54
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Replace those pieces of poo poo ASAP. The easiest thing I’ve found is chiseling off the outside coating and fitting the next closest socket to the inner copper alloy nut I won't be the one doing the swap. I just need to know what kind of lug nuts I should get, because what my stupid rear end doesn't know what capless or no-cap actually means, because everything looks like it has a cap on it while I shop for capless/no-cap lug nuts. I keep looking for something that looks like it has an open end and has no dome.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:06
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Funny you mention - I just ripped off and replaced the M12 x 1.5 lug nuts on my Miata not ten minutes ago. (they didn't give me the key at sale time, and it's tire rotation time.) Point 1:  'security lug nuts' are worthless. I just effectively stole my own wheels with five minutes of time and a $20 lug nut extractor set. Anyways, the lovely lug nuts are largely an OEM thing. I haven't really seen those for sale aftermarket. You can easily tell if a lug nut has a lovely chrome cap, it's a two piece thing and there'll be a seam. Here's an example of real, metal, one piece lug nuts (I'm not endorsing this particular brand, just using as an example) 
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Apr 15, 2024 23:16
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Okay, it makes sense to me now. It's a coating, not an issue about a closed end. I can see how that's a cap, but it didn't click with me. Fuckin Ford. I only have this car because it was my father's, and he died in 2017, so my mother signed it over to me because I had nothing and he don't need it any more. I wish I could swing a car payment, so I have to make this fucker last as long as possible.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:34
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You don't have to get open ended ones. If they're capped the threads just need to be deep enough that they tighten on the wheel without bottoming out on on the cap. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2012,escape,3.0l+v6,3015248,wheel,lug+nut,7676 I guessed at engine size but these will be in the ballpark. Just pick your car specs and go wheels / lug nuts.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:34
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I went with these but don’t know if they’re the right size for your application. https://bulletproofautomotive.com/p...ASABEgLgWfD_BwE
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Apr 15, 2024 23:43
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And one more thing - you'll notice those lug nuts are 'bulge acorn' style and this may set off your spidey senses, considering the drama you're currently having with, well, bulging lug nuts. It's an unfortunate term! 'bulge acorn' style simply means that it has a smaller rounded end, and it has that little lip on the bottom. The purpose of that is to act as a stop for your socket/lug wrench, so that you don't bottom out on the wheel itself and scratch up your wheel.
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Apr 15, 2024 23:54
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Synnr posted:I'll probably put in another more detailed question in the Jeep thread if it continues to be an issue and/or the warranty stuff doesn't cover it if it's worse than I'm hoping 9005 is not a HID bulb. You want a D3S bulb. Very possible they both crapped out at the same time. Resist the urge to get no name replacements, they'll be junk. Orsam or Phillips are good. https://www.amazon.com/OSRAM-XENARC-XENON-Headlight-66340HBI/dp/B074KSBLDP
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Apr 16, 2024 00:41
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sleepy gary posted:Please post photos of your van raccoons, tezer. kastein posted:We demand forbidden catte pictures They were absolutely buried in there. I could see them by holding a flashlight at just the right angle, looking through a 2x2-inch hole. Honestly, the racoon had the right idea, very protected space with easy access from below. Mom racoon and at least three babies that I counted after she left at night. Very cute, but as my wife insisted, "No petting the racoon!". Everything I read said they would be there for days while the mom prepared a new den, so I was pretty surprised when I checked on them at 11am the next morning and they were all gone. The mom must have worked all night moving them, they were very tiny. I fished out the nesting material (a pillowcase and some random stuff from my hoarder neighbor's carport) and took off on a two day drive to the east coast. Thought the trip was cancelled, turns out only delayed a day. Honestly, best case scenario result, just some ripped up insulation. Just one of those weird life experiences I guess. I have a sprinter van coming in a few months to replace this one, not sure if I'll do any pre-mitigation or just assume it was a one off thing.
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Apr 16, 2024 02:13
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I have scuff on my front fender. Does it pay to get some touch up paint or paint pen? If so is there a recommended one or am I wasting my time?
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Apr 16, 2024 11:46
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Noticed my car was pulling to one side and one caliper was getting hot. Put the car up, took a look and noticed the piston had corrosion on it. These were new on the car 15 months ago. I got in touch with the place I purchased them from and the manufacturer is saying "the piston has been contaminated with brake fluid for it to corrode like this" I was under the impression the piston has to come into contact with brake fluid in order to y'know, brake... The main seal that keeps the fluid in the caliper is still mint, the outer seal which keeps the grime out was a little soggy, especially compared to the new ones I've put in their place. New piston has already gone in and I'm not toooooo bothered, I just want to be a Karen for a moment (mainly because I hate poo poo quality parts, especially ones which claim to be OEM equivalent) Opinions? (this is the offending side, 1 piston)  
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Apr 16, 2024 12:47
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drhankmccoyphd posted:I have scuff on my front fender. Does it pay to get some touch up paint or paint pen? If so is there a recommended one or am I wasting my time? A picture might help. Usually for scuffs I’d lean towards buffing it though. Paint pens are more useful for small chips and scratches.
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Apr 16, 2024 12:49
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drhankmccoyphd posted:I have scuff on my front fender. Does it pay to get some touch up paint or paint pen? If so is there a recommended one or am I wasting my time? Paint pens are fine but you’re gonna wanna get a bunch of wet sanding paper and blocks and buffing compound and all that. Even for small scratches you’ve gotta do a decent sized section of the paint if you’re gonna do paint correction. A quick way to check if it’s through the paint is to run a fingernail across the scratch parallel to it. If you can catch a fingernail it’s through the paint. If you can’t (or barely can, ymmv) you can usually just buff it out.
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Apr 16, 2024 13:22
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nitsuga posted:A picture might help. Usually for scuffs I’d lean towards buffing it though. Paint pens are more useful for small chips and scratches. Thanks for the response. Here are a couple pics.   edit: just for a bit of context I don't really care about the scuff / scratch or the car but right now I'm gunning for a trade in and I'm trying to minimize the deductions with the least amount of effort. drhankmccoyphd fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Apr 16, 2024 |
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Apr 16, 2024 13:26
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Noticed my car was pulling to one side and one caliper was getting hot. Put the car up, took a look and noticed the piston had corrosion on it. These were new on the car 15 months ago. I got in touch with the place I purchased them from and the manufacturer is saying "the piston has been contaminated with brake fluid for it to corrode like this" Basically, it is a "they can eff off" type of deal.
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Apr 16, 2024 13:31
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drhankmccoyphd posted:Thanks for the response. Here are a couple pics. The least effort to not make it look like a dull mess is to take it to a paint shop. You’re through the paint on those two decent sized chips and the whole corner needs work, so it’s not gonna be easy or quick to do at home. Other option is to ignore it.
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Apr 16, 2024 13:54
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drhankmccoyphd posted:Thanks for the response. Here are a couple pics. I would get some mild buffing compound or polish and gently rub it out. It won't go away, but it'll be far harder to see unless someone is looking for it. You could also try playing a hair dryer over it (NOT a heat gun) and see if it seems to resolve. Again, be patient and take your time.
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Apr 16, 2024 15:46
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Doing more research on hatchbacks and I’m glad there’s more of ‘em now but - man, I honestly prefer the classic vertical door design instead of the angled liftback style. Nothing wrong with boxy in the back IMO. The Civic is just such a good, reliable model though…if it had the Mazda 3 look, it’d be a no-brainer. Especially strange considering there’s apparently more cargo space in the Civic hatch than the Mazda despite the liftback door. Honestly I keep coming up Civic, so it’s probably gonna be that. Maybe when I have a house and garage of my own I’ll trade into a Type R 
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Apr 16, 2024 17:05
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Noticed my car was pulling to one side and one caliper was getting hot. Put the car up, took a look and noticed the piston had corrosion on it. These were new on the car 15 months ago. I got in touch with the place I purchased them from and the manufacturer is saying "the piston has been contaminated with brake fluid for it to corrode like this" That does seem like a failed seal situation. I would expect the issue isn't so much the brake fluid on the ?steel piston but rather the brake fluid allowing contaminant particles (brake dust, road detritus) to remain on the surface of the piston, where it can start to machine into it as the piston articulates.
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Apr 16, 2024 17:08
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Pollyanna posted:Doing more research on hatchbacks and I’m glad there’s more of ‘em now but - man, I honestly prefer the classic vertical door design instead of the angled liftback style. Nothing wrong with boxy in the back IMO. The civic gets away with more cargo space because the entire car is the size of a Buick Century. The civic is not a small car any more.
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Apr 16, 2024 18:25
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Dr. Lunchables posted:The civic gets away with more cargo space because the entire car is the size of a Buick Century. The civic is not a small car any more. It's all of 2.something inches longer than the Mazda3 hatch. At a super reductive level, Honda cares more about packaging and Mazda cares more about refinement.
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Apr 16, 2024 18:52
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