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Slavvy posted:I've looked at that site, it does none of those things. In every respect it behaves like a normal engine except for the vacuum being quite high at idle. The 900 RPM idle easily explains the high vacuum. I forget - did you try swapping the IACV for a known good one already? And at least on some Hondas (yeah, I know it's a Toyota), I know they have some bypass ports in the throttle body to keep it idling if the IACV packs it in, if they get clogged up then you get a wonky idle. The cambelt tensioner should take up any slack from stretching, unless the belt is so stretched that it's about to jump/break.
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Feb 13, 2015 08:29
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98 Civic, how important is the exhaust manifold heat shield? It's been rattling and driving my wife crazy, and a new one is $60-80 that I'd much rather spend on anything else. Mostly highway driving, never park in tall grass.
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Feb 13, 2015 10:08
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Geirskogul posted:Protip II: don't get it serviced by the dealer, unless you have a warranty, in which case, keep your receipts even if you get it serviced by the dealer. Case in point: Hyundai. What's the reason for this besides all the paranoid ones I've made up and told to my mom over the years to make her stop throwing money at those people? Specifically Hyundai. e. I noticed the thread about lovely dealership work. Found my answer(s). Fun Times! fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 12:18
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Hyundai: You took your oil cap off and added a quart once in the middle of a 1000 mile road trip? Warranty void. Or so I understand.
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Feb 13, 2015 12:22
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I need to get a tyre sealant/inflator kit for emergency use, since I can't carry a donut. I've never used one before. (Saab 9-3 with pretty low profile tyres) Anything to look our for, or just get a 'smart repair kit'? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-18003...rds=tyre+repair Or should I be looking for an OEM kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-EMERGENCY-TYRE-REPAIR-KIT-COMPRESSOR-SEALER-UNUSED-/161597814347?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item259ffaf64b http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-M...=item2c96ab72e3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Contimobi...=item4d2d5745a1 spog fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 15:38
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Running into an issue that google is yielding mixed results on - I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE automatic V4, about 62k miles (regular oil changes and filters - just for maintenance context). When I start the car cold in the mornings as of the past month or so, there's a squeak from what sounds like the belt, now the squeak only lasts for about 2 minutes and as the car gets warmed up the squeak goes away and lets say i leave the car sitting for a few hours and start it again the squeak won't return. I've tried some belt conditioner and interestingly enough if i spray it as the car is squeaking it goes away but it only lasts for a week or so. Is this a cause for concern? I've also taken a look at the belts and they don't feel worn down based on touch but i'm no mechanic. I have researched that this can happen because of the cold weather (it's been in the 40's here and I am in Florida so cold weather only happens for a month a year or so). Just trying to see if I should take it in, and how to not get fisted by the mechanic if I need something fixed.
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Feb 13, 2015 16:42
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If nothing else is behaving badly (you aren't seeing low voltage out of the alternator, you aren't feeling weird power steering assist that cuts in and out) then the belt itself has probably just aged enough to start slipping. The other possibility is that the tensioner itself is failing and isn't holding the belt on as tightly as it should be. The belt just being old is more likely of the two. In either case, it should be a very simple repair.
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Feb 13, 2015 17:17
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic, how important is the exhaust manifold heat shield? It's been rattling and driving my wife crazy, and a new one is $60-80 that I'd much rather spend on anything else. Mostly highway driving, never park in tall grass. Find a friend with a welder and tack it back together or go to a REAL exhaust shop and have them tack it back together.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:51
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some texas redneck posted:The 900 RPM idle easily explains the high vacuum. Yeah I have, as well as a replacement map sensor and a rebuilt distributor. The latter was definitely making it suffer because it was leaking oil internally and had a cracked coil. I got a noticeable increase in power after doing this but the idle didn't change which steered me away from anything ignition related. The belt tensioner is just a manual one that you set and forget.
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Feb 13, 2015 20:55
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So, we may be picking this up as a band van. Bought it.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:57
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I'm replacing my car's front pads and rotors, and I saw that a hardware kit to service the calipers is also available which contains bushings and clips. Should I replace the bushings while I'm dealing with the shoes, or is that pointless since the system itself seems to be fine? I don't have any problems with braking under high or low stress, it's just at the point of wear where new pads/rotors are needed. 88 Chrysler Lebaron, FWD with disc on the front and drum on the back vvv: Scratch the insanity, the manual has entries for both disc and drum on the rear but it's due to a body submodel difference and I was just skimming that since I was focused on the front Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Feb 13, 2015 22:08
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Sentient Data posted:(as well as rear disc inside the drum for parking brake, but I'm not messing with that) Wait, what?
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Feb 13, 2015 22:17
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Bought it. How's the commode?
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Feb 13, 2015 22:31
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I have an airbrush. Just sayin'.
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Feb 13, 2015 22:33
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Uthor posted:How's the commode? Haven't tried it yet - my singer picked it up in Tahoe this afternoon and we'll be checking it out as days go by. PaintVagrant posted:I have an airbrush. Just sayin'. This may be important, as the "tasteful" mural on the side does not mean "fully dressed".
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Feb 13, 2015 22:49
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Find a friend with a welder and tack it back together or go to a REAL exhaust shop and have them tack it back together. It's mostly rust so not worth trying to salvage.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:38
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spog posted:I need to get a tyre sealant/inflator kit for emergency use, since I can't carry a donut. I've never used one before. Get a dynaplug.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:40
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So I put some new rear speakers in the back of my 94 ford ranger a week ago. Yesterday I drove over to the gas station and the radio worked fine. Drive back home and nothing is coming out of the speakers. I've pulled the head unit out and looked over the connections and the fuse and there's nothing wrong. What could cause the head unit to work fine but nothing come out of the speakers?
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Feb 14, 2015 05:19
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Loose/shorted wires at the speaker end? But before you tear it open again, you may as well check the audio balance on the head unit. No idea why it would happen, but you may as well make sure it's trying to send audio to the speakers in the first place
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Feb 14, 2015 05:25
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Sentient Data posted:Loose/shorted wires at the speaker end? But before you tear it open again, you may as well check the audio balance on the head unit. No idea why it would happen, but you may as well make sure it's trying to send audio to the speakers in the first place Would a shorted pair stop all the speakers from working? The balance is fine on the head unit I even reset it.
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Feb 14, 2015 05:28
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ALL the speakers I would doubt, I was thinking just the rear ones and overly-stripped wires rubbing or something similar. Is there an external amp that could have been disturbed or do the wires plug directly into the head?
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Feb 14, 2015 05:37
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Sentient Data posted:ALL the speakers I would doubt, I was thinking just the rear ones and overly-stripped wires rubbing or something similar. Is there an external amp that could have been disturbed or do the wires plug directly into the head? No external amp. I went over and checked all my connections at the head unit as well and didnt see anything out of the ordinary.
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Feb 14, 2015 05:43
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Bovril Delight posted:Get a dynaplug. That's pretty interesting, thanks. Would have worked well when I got a wood screw in my tread. However, the last puncture I had didn't have a simple hole (seemed to be a tear), so I couldn't have plugged it. The first ever flat I had was caused by a stanley knife blade- which I didn't think should be strong enough, but must have just got the right angle - so it was a long, thin cut. I may pick up a dynaplug. But as well as that, should I get:  or 
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Feb 14, 2015 13:52
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A plug is a much better solution than slime.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:00
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I don't think any kind of gel system will do a lot of good in a situation where a plug wouldn't work.
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Feb 14, 2015 19:36
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Does using tire slime make the tech's life miserable when he changes the tire?
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Feb 14, 2015 20:06
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Neptr posted:Does using tire slime make the tech's life miserable when he changes the tire? Very. They have to clean that poo poo out to mount a tire.
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Feb 14, 2015 20:11
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Yes. Slime is good for a few things: Making the tire techs angry at you Making actual patches and plugs not stick as well unless you are careful about cleaning it allll off And glomming into a big wad in one spot in cold weather so your tire is unbalanced.
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Feb 14, 2015 20:12
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I am picking up a subtle vibe that you guys prefer the plugs to slime. I've never heard of using them before, but if you rate it, then I'll give it a try. I assume that the first one on Amazon is the right choice: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DYNAPLUG%C2...ywords=dynaplug  I'm going to get the Slime branded pump kit that I posted earlier (and not the more expensive OEM)- I need a pump anyway and I want something that will give me an option if the plug won't work (like my last puncture). The reviews say that it is water soluble, so the tech won't hate me too much and I make it a policy of buying new tyres if I ever get a defect with one anyway. EDIT: I am kind of stunned at the number of people who expect/are using this as a permanent repair. Even on motorbikes. spog fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 14, 2015 21:47
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I was backing into a tiny garage (there's barely a few inches of clearance on both sides of the doorway), then this happened:    How difficult is it to replace a side view mirror? And roughly what kind of cost can I expect for an OEM replacement mirror? melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 14, 2015 23:18
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Normally pretty easy. The mirror is usually screwed on from the inside of the door, the screws being covered by a trim panel (the entire door card may need to come off to get access, it depends on the car). It's the kind of job you can knock out in under an hour if you know where all the clips/fasteners are. The mirror cost from a dealer may be... significant. Ebay or a junkyard is likely a good option, and if you can find one the right colour in good condition (so it doesn't need paint) so much the better. I'd estimate $50-$70 for a good used one, but you'd need to check.
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Feb 14, 2015 23:33
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spog posted:I am picking up a subtle vibe that you guys prefer the plugs to slime. I've never heard of using them before, but if you rate it, then I'll give it a try. I assume that the first one on Amazon is the right choice: I've run rawhide plugs as permanent repairs for a looooooooooooooooooong time. loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time.
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Feb 15, 2015 02:46
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spog posted:I am picking up a subtle vibe that you guys prefer the plugs to slime. I've never heard of using them before, but if you rate it, then I'll give it a try. I assume that the first one on Amazon is the right choice: You can buy a cheap 12v compressor for $5-$10 at most Walmart/auto parts places. If you can't plug it, slime won't help much. I have a dynaplug and a compressor for several cars with no spare and never been a problem. Anything worse than that and I'll just use roadside.
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Feb 15, 2015 02:52
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The small triangular black panel on the inside of the door opposite the mirror pries of. Start at the top. It may have a little tweeter built in, the plug will be tucked down behind the door card but you can tug it out and disconnect it (or just let the whole thing dangle). There are three 10mm nuts holding the mirror on with studs, there may also be a plastic clippy type thing that you just pull on to remove. The wiring for the mirror will have a connector down behind the door card, clipped to the skin. You can usually undo these without taking the door card off, but if you absolutely have to do it it's easy and simple.
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Feb 15, 2015 04:22
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InitialDave posted:Normally pretty easy. The mirror is usually screwed on from the inside of the door, the screws being covered by a trim panel (the entire door card may need to come off to get access, it depends on the car). It's the kind of job you can knock out in under an hour if you know where all the clips/fasteners are. Slavvy posted:The small triangular black panel on the inside of the door opposite the mirror pries of. Start at the top. It may have a little tweeter built in, the plug will be tucked down behind the door card but you can tug it out and disconnect it (or just let the whole thing dangle). There are three 10mm nuts holding the mirror on with studs, there may also be a plastic clippy type thing that you just pull on to remove. The wiring for the mirror will have a connector down behind the door card, clipped to the skin. You can usually undo these without taking the door card off, but if you absolutely have to do it it's easy and simple. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 06:47
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You can actually take it off by hand; I do them at work all the time without a tool. Just wind the window down and be persistent with pulling at the edges.
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Feb 15, 2015 06:52
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melon cat posted:Hopefully it won't cost too much to pay a local garage to re-spray the side mirror into a matching colour? You'd want to talk to a bodyshop about this. This is the kind of thing where if you were having the car sprayed for something else they'd probably throw it in for free, but considering auto paint is about as expensive as unicorn semen you're probably going to be looking at a minimum of $100 to have it professionally done. Alternately, if your car is a relatively common color like black (kind of hard to tell from your picture if its black or forest green) you could probably do a passable rattle can job yourself.
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Feb 15, 2015 06:56
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Slavvy posted:You can actually take it off by hand; I do them at work all the time without a tool. Just wind the window down and be persistent with pulling at the edges. Geoj posted:You'd want to talk to a bodyshop about this. This is the kind of thing where if you were having the car sprayed for something else they'd probably throw it in for free, but considering auto paint is about as expensive as unicorn semen you're probably going to be looking at a minimum of $100 to have it professionally done. melon cat fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 07:08
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Take a look at rockauto.com also, I've seen mirrors on there for $30-50 for my cars. They usually don't come painted though.
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Feb 15, 2015 07:16
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The word you're looking for is metallic. I'm sure you could find a close match either at a hardware store or auto parts store but it's not going to be the same as the rest of the body. The painted cap should come primed, but otherwise there really isn't much to concern yourself with when choosing a primer, especially when painting plastic. Lots of thin coats are better than one thick one, and you'll want to follow up the base coat with clearcoat. TBH you should really try to find a pre-painted replacement in a junkyard if eBay doesn't work, getting spraypaint to come out good is very difficult if you've never painted before.
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Feb 15, 2015 07:20
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