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WTFBEES posted:Calipers are confirmed to be on the correct side. Top of picture is up. Uhh, are they? it looks like the bleeder is on the bottom side of the caliper. e: it seems right, i guess. that's what the pictures on this are. https://dandcextreme.com/product-category/brakes/brake-calipers/ e: it's wrong according to this, and how it works in my head.  The unless the top channel where the bleeder would be tapped isn't drilled at all, there would be an air pocket at everything higher than the bleeder. e: yeah, i think your calipers are on the wrong sides, and upside down. hopefully someone less high can chime in. 
Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 02:05
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Powershift posted:Uhh, are they? it looks like the bleeder is on the bottom side of the caliper. Well poo poo, I thought the important part was that the bleeder was higher than the brake line. If that's not the case then we have some caliper swapping to do.
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Mar 7, 2024 02:18
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WTFBEES posted:I am at my wits end trying to make the brakes work on our project 1974 Scout and will take any and all ideas of what were missing. I am going to err on the side of way too much information because we have countless hours into it and had two legit and trusted mechanics go hands-on with no success. The statement that you get a little fluid on the Motive & then nothing at all out of a bleeder- except some crap - sounds like you have crap lodged in your plumbing upstream somewhere: hardlines and/or distribution blocks. Rear wheel cylinders, too, if they haven't been replaced. First: Make sure your master has been thoroughly bled. You may have to do this on a bench, but you should be able to bleed it in situ. Run hoses from the master cylinder outputs back up into the reservoirs. The Motive kit should come with threaded nipples for this. Pump until there is no air. Once that's confirmed: Start at the master cylinder and work your way out & back through to each junction & wheel, one line at a time, and test for flow on each line segment of each hardline until you get to each wheel. Connecting up the line from the master to the distribution block, and pumping to see if you get fluid out of all outputs. Then, hook up the hardline to the distribution block& see hoew that flows with all of the output lines off. Then reconnect each line, one at a time: left front, right front, (from the front output on the master) and rear traveler to the (but disconnected from) the rear axle distribution block. Pump fluid at each one, one at a time, to confirm good flow. Then the rear block, with the lines disconnected from each wheel, to see if the left & right lines are flowing freely. The hardlines may be full of crap and corrosion, and if you can't blast high volumes of brake fluid through them, then replace them. Just because they look solid on the outside does not mean that they don't look like a grotto on the inside. WTFBEES posted:Well poo poo, I thought the important part was that the bleeder was higher than the brake line. If that's not the case then we have some caliper swapping to do. You are correct. The bleeder should be high; if you are even able to swap them, you do not want the bleeder below the cylinder, you;ll never get all of the air out. They are installed correctly. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 02:55
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PainterofCrap posted:You are correct. The bleeder should be high; if you are even able to swap them, you do not want the bleeder below the cylinder, you;ll never get all of the air out. They are installed correctly. The bleeder is in the middle of the cylinder there. I'm fairly sure they're upside down.  from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGlGp_byU-w
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Mar 7, 2024 03:15
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It shows the bleeder well above the input line, even with or slightly above the caliper piston, and facing up & out. That's as high as it can be. You try & mount that on the other side, flipped over, and the bleeder will be well below the caliper cylinder. It's fine. I suspect that the master cylinder is air-bound, They can be a bitch to bleed - even when they have their own bleeders. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 03:22
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I'm just taking a wild guess that the piston is somewhere about the red circle in the pic and if the OP says the top of the pic is up, then that bleeder is definitely not at the top. Also, I know that I don't know everything, but I've never seen a brake line that come in at the bottom of a caliper. Not saying it doesn't exist but I've never seen one. Also there definitely could be poo poo stuck in the lines as POC said.. If the rubber line going to the rear axle was old it could at least explain some of the problem 
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Mar 7, 2024 03:45
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If the part circled is the piston then the bleeder could never actually bleed air in the current config.
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Mar 7, 2024 04:10
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A thing I will try unless you all say otherwise - the calipers easily slide out after removing a single Allen. I can remove them from the mount, stick something roughly rotor thickness between the pads, flip the caliper over and try bleeding again without messing with actually moving them to the other side. That way they'll have been bled in both orientations without introducing more air to the system. Also confirming the circled thing is the single piston.
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Mar 7, 2024 04:11
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The thing Im seeing in the video above is that the bleeder should be parallel with the floor. That was/is true for most or all of my cars, drums or discs. e: the bleeder also needs to be above the piston itself. I think the mounting screws holding the caliper to the knuckle made this seem like an enticing option, what with the bleeder being higher, but if you swap em it will likely point straight out in a relatively flat line between bleeder and brake line, with the piston sat directly below this flat line. Dr. Lunchables fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 04:17
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OK: After a lot of searching: The caliper should be mounted on the back of the knuckle. I can't tell from your photo, but the more I look at it compared to what I'm running into online, the hose/banjo bolt should be on the top and the bleeder points down (which is weird & wrong to me; I've seen up; I've seen straight horizontal; but not down). Looking at your photo, it appears that there is a channel from the top of the piston that angles downwards to the bleed screw. This is a passenger-side caliper.  The top of the unit is to the left. The bleeder does point down a bit, but its channel clearly starts at the top of the piston. In other words: I am wrong, and you have your calipers mounted on the wrong sides. Swapping left with right should solve it. It took over a year for me to figure this out for my neighbor's Silverado rear calipers, but it was the same problem: soft pedal. You got air bound up in the top half of the pistons. And yes, his rear calipers were 100% interchangeable, too PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 04:33
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WTFBEES posted:Well poo poo, I thought the important part was that the bleeder was higher than the brake line. If that's not the case then we have some caliper swapping to do. What's happening is all the air(blue) is sitting up in a pocket, and all the new fluid you run through it(red) is never going to push it out. With the caliper flipped, the bleeder is on the other face at the top. The fluid fills up the caliper from the top and the air rises up to the bleeder.  It makes sense that the brakes would work better but not well with pressure already on it from the pressure bleeder, as it would pre-compress the air a little bit increasing the overall pressure with the pedal, but you're still largely compressing air instead of pushing on the piston. e: i think the raybestos listings i posted have them wrong too. The first link has them labeled right. Shows how easy a mistake it is to make. Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 06:04
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Dr. Lunchables posted:What about your fluid reservoir cap? If its unsealed youve got a potential failure point. Its the only thing that wouldnt be on when the motive is connected This is not at all how brake systems work. WTFBEES posted:A thing I will try unless you all say otherwise - the calipers easily slide out after removing a single Allen. I can remove them from the mount, stick something roughly rotor thickness between the pads, flip the caliper over and try bleeding again without messing with actually moving them to the other side. That way they'll have been bled in both orientations without introducing more air to the system. I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work, though the long term fix is still swap the calipers side to side. At that point the only work you're saving yourself is removing the banjo bolt for the brake line. The only other thing I can think of - the distribution block, is it truly just a distribution block or is it actually a proportioning valve? The GM ones can get stuck and cause all kinds of bullshit when that happens.
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Mar 7, 2024 16:55
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Wife scratched her glossy black wheels. It's just visible white scratches in one sector where you can feel the scratched metal. Before re-anodizing or w/e or rebuying should I use Alumiblack touch up? The touch up product is not really glossy but I'm just trying to avoid the eyesore. Any other ideas or application/prep tips? These are the wheels: 
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Mar 7, 2024 17:31
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Hed posted:Wife scratched her glossy black wheels. It's just visible white scratches in one sector where you can feel the scratched metal. Very wrong product. Its just black paint on the wheel. Likely powder coat which is just a type of paint that gets baked on. You can sand, mask and spray the damaged section with automotive black spray paint. Or if its just a bunch of small scratches get a gloss black touch up pen. If you can get the wheel off and horizontal youll have a better result. Just make sure its clean wherever youre applying paint. If the scratches are shallow enough that you can just build it up with the paint pen do so in light layers. If it was me and I wanted it perfect, I would fill the scratches with body filler, sand smooth, mask off the section, apply one or two coats then unmask blend it in with one last coat and then wet sand and polish. I can't speak to this specific product, but this it the type of thing. https://www.amazon.com/Matte-Black-Rim-Touch-Paint/dp/B0CKLW4NM6 Duplicolor makes these in universal gloss black, they have a little tip to scuff the area for painting and ball-point type tip and a brush inside for larger gouges. I've used it for body stuff and it has worked well for me. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/scratch-fix-all-in-1-exact-match-automotive-touch-up-paint/ Powershift fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 17:47
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Those calipers are definitely on the wrong sides. It's not about where the bleeder itself is - it's about where the tiny bleed hole that's drilled straight through the back of the bleeder screw hole meets the side of the cylinder bore. Which looks to be drat near at the bottom of the cylinder bore in this case. If you flip them to the opposite side it will be very close to the top of the cylinder bore. *Resets the "days since last left-right caliper swap bleeding debacle" wall counter to zero* I wish I could count the number of years people have wasted learning this the hard way. I want to say I've seen upwards of a dozen people on many different platforms learn this and most only ask after weeks or months of loving with it and replacing a bunch of parts because bleeding brakes is easy right? Edit: I think this design actually has the bleeder passage meet the passage from the banjo bolt not the cylinder itself, but still, it's definitely on upside down: 
kastein fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 18:31
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Powershift posted:Very wrong product. Thank you, ordered the duplicolor brush in gloss black and with a little surface prep will see how it goes.
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Mar 7, 2024 21:17
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trevorreznik posted:How big/heavy is the chemical tank? Do you need side entry or are you up for sitting straddle? Is it always going to be a single rider? Sometimes having side-by-side is nice for certain tasks, so that would be preferred, but we'd be doing a lot smaller acreage now so I'd have to consider that. Thanks for the info on the hondas.
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Mar 7, 2024 22:41
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RE: the brakes - that's one of the most frustrating things about diagnostics, something you are most confident you did right is the one thing you never test to make sure.
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Mar 8, 2024 00:44
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BeAuMaN posted:Is this the place to ask about UTVs? We had the 6-wheel gator for a long time, and it was fine for our needs, usually. That low frame with no rear suspension was a liability sometimes though. Dad replaced it with a much newer 4x4 gator, the one with an easier lift bed and a roof. He seemed to like it till we no longer needed it. Definitely more comfortable to drive and handled 4x4 needs better. I put it through some poo poo I'd never have taken the 6-wheeler through, mainly because suspension and clearance allowed it. That's not a ton of help I know, but I can say for certainty the newer ones are a great improvement on the late 90s models. Every Polaris Ranger I've used has also been good but they all seemed loud and beds were a little small and high for sprayers. I carried tanks and sprayers in them, they were just high enough to be a little awkward though.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is not at all how brake systems work. Yeah, it was only a statement of fact with assumption that things were installed correctly. Clearly that wasnt the case.
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Mar 8, 2024 04:34
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:We had the 6-wheel gator for a long time, and it was fine for our needs, usually. That low frame with no rear suspension was a liability sometimes though. The older 6x4 gators with the diesel were great yard trucks though. The box could hold a standard pallet, and it didn't have any problems carrying around a ton or more, especially if you put some suitcase weights on the front to help the steering. Really much more of a tractor than any of the modern side by sides.
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Mar 8, 2024 16:30
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I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with ~73k miles on it. In October I went on a long road trip (~3000 miles). Midway through I got a CEL. Took it to a shop, they said the wire to the O2 sensor was loose, fixed it, sent me on my way. Next day it was back on; took it to Oreillys to get the codes read and it threw like 16 errors, rebooted their machine, and stopped reading at all. Took it back to the first shop, they monkeyed with it, said the O2 sensor was bad, fixed that. Possible relevant information, they did a whole inspection and told me a bunch of things I should get done, ranging from new air filters to sanitizing the hvac lines, to new spark plugs, to decarbonizing the throttle body, and the one possibly relevant thing, outer tie rod ends starting to tear. As I was pressed for time I just had them do the O2 and figured I'd address the rest later. Remaining 1500 miles of the road trip went fine. November hits, suddenly for no reason my traction control turns on? Or off? I'm not sure; both of the indicator lights for it turn on and I can feel a slight difference in performance, but barely Basically it feels like it drags a bit, slowing faster with I'm not touching the pedals. Flat dry roads, no reason for it, and it doesn't respond to the button to turn it back off. Turning the car off resets it, and it doesn't come on EVERY trip, but it does most trips after ~2-3 miles of driving. I'm fortunate enough to not need this as a daily commuter or anything so I only drive once a week or so and usually for less than 10 total miles. Took it to the local shop I usually go to. They said it had 13 error codes, mostly relating to communication. They reset the system, then... replaced an airbag sensor. Said after that the car was "running rough" and that they needed to check a valve stem sensor which meant replacing a bunch of poo poo... $1000 and a full month later I get it back. (The time delay I'm not too mad about; they had one mechanic and he was in and out of the hospital, it was the holidays, and they were in the process of being bought out by a larger dealer chain.) They also tell me that if it comes back it's probably the PCM going bad. Drove it twice, immediately the same issue with the traction control came back. I also notice that sometimes after backing out of my driveway, shifting to drive, and going, it takes a moment to "engage" and start moving. I have no idea if this is related to anything else in this post, it doesn't happen every time I reverse, so I have no idea what's up with that. Took it to a different local shop and they said it only had two errors, relating to traction control, but unfortunately they don't have the systems to fix it because they don't see it often enough to have bought the tech to do it. That was this morning. I scheduled to bring it back to the usual local shop (now bought and rebranded unfortunately so we'll see) but I can't get it in until mid-late April, and in the mean time I have a longer ~50-mile trip I have to take, which brings me to my questions. 1: Am I likely to be in danger of some horrible PCM/electrical failure leaving me stranded in rural farmland, or is this more on the "annoying lights and worse gas mileage" side of things? 2: Could this be related to the tie rod/some kind of wheel sensor instead of the PCM? I don't want to pay a bunch for them to replace the computer if it was a sensor all along, but then I also would prefer to not have them replace another random sensor and have something else -- possibly more impactful -- start failing instead. Anecdotally, many years ago I had a computer with a damaged processor that crashed a lot, pointing at a different component every time because it just pointed at whatever was using it, and this kind of reminds me of that, which is part of why I'm inclined to believe it's the PCM. I'm just wondering about other options since most resources seem to believe PCMs don't really fail, but the fact that it seems to throw so many different errors makes me more inclined to believe it.
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Mar 8, 2024 17:22
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All the modules and sensors being unhappy, and problems intermittent makes me think it's a voltage/ground issue. Chasing this can be extremely time consuming. The tie rod wouldn't give ABS codes, at this point it just sounds like a torn boot which will lead to an unpleasant failure down the road. I think you are being taken advantage of. Sanitizing HVAC lines is probably charging an hour labour for running a $20 can of cleaner through the vents. The throttle body shouldn't see any carbon. If it does get dirty/sticky it would be noticeable in unpredictable performance. Replacing sensors when all the modules are going haywire is strange. I don't know what your skill level is for DIY is, but there are things you can do yourself to try to narrow down the issues without constantly paying mechanics for diagnosis. 1. get a cheap ELM OBD2 reader off of amazon and Forscan. There is support here and on model specific forums for the errors and faults it shows. You will also be able to see the voltage the PCM is seeing, they are very sensitive and too high or too low can create a ton of errors. 2. inspect as much of the wiring harness as you can. follow the wires looking for wear on the sleeves around the wires or corrosion(specifically around the battery). get ahold of a multi meter and check the voltage with the vehicle running. Unfortunately chasing electrical gremlins can take a lot of time without yielding results, paying shop labour rates to do this can add up pretty quickly. shops parts-cannoning expensive sensors when so many of them are showing errors will add up quickly as you've seen. Dealerships are more expensive for general work, but for a diagnostic on an issue like this they might have more knowledge and experience on narrowing down where the fault is. As with any electrical gremlins, they could cause the car to stop running. You can look into an AAA/AMA/whatever membership as a yearly membership is often the cost of a tow.
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Mar 8, 2024 18:06
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Nighthand posted:I have a 2012 Mazda 6 with ~73k miles on it. Are you the original owner? Does the car have any flood damage? Does the car have any aftermarket lights/stereo/security/stuff that might be spliced into wiring? Im not an expert but that sounds to me like some majorly hosed up wiring somewhere, maybe a whole harness with a big short in it. It sounds silly, but I'd also check the battery voltage when sitting and running, a dying battery/alternator can cause some wacky, varied stuff to come up. Also also, I would invest in a cheap code reader so you're not dependent on shops to pull codes, well worth the investment if you can afford it.
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Mar 8, 2024 18:11
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DildenAnders posted:Are you the original owner? Does the car have any flood damage? Does the car have any aftermarket lights/stereo/security/stuff that might be spliced into wiring? Have squirrels gotten into the engine bay and started biting through wires?
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Mar 8, 2024 18:22
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The older 6x4 gators with the diesel were great yard trucks though. The box could hold a standard pallet, and it didn't have any problems carrying around a ton or more, especially if you put some suitcase weights on the front to help the steering. Really much more of a tractor than any of the modern side by sides. The 6x4 diesels would have been so much better with a split brake like a tractor. The number of times I just had to point the front end over a hill in vaguely the right direction and send it as hard as that clattery little fucker would go when hauling sap...
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Mar 8, 2024 18:29
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Mr. Wiggles posted:The older 6x4 gators with the diesel were great yard trucks though. The box could hold a standard pallet, and it didn't have any problems carrying around a ton or more, especially if you put some suitcase weights on the front to help the steering. Really much more of a tractor than any of the modern side by sides. wolrah posted:The 6x4 diesels would have been so much better with a split brake like a tractor. The number of times I just had to point the front end over a hill in vaguely the right direction and send it as hard as that clattery little fucker would go when hauling sap... I wish we'd had the diesel. The one major complaint I had for ours was the weird acceleration when the carb would cavitate. Most of our use was around dirt roads and pine plantation deer leases in Arkansas and general rural property maintenance, and it was awesome for that. We hauled brush, saws, deerstands, feed, gravel, etc. Slow as molasses but we never overloaded it. With that footprint and 4 psi tires, the only thing it ever got stuck in was deep snow a couple times. And lol yeah on the steering. Crossing ditches and water bars was always "aim that way and don't let up till all the wheels are over it."
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Mar 8, 2024 18:41
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Powershift posted:I think you are being taken advantage of. Sanitizing HVAC lines is probably charging an hour labour for running a $20 can of cleaner through the vents. The throttle body shouldn't see any carbon. If it does get dirty/sticky it would be noticeable in unpredictable performance. Replacing sensors when all the modules are going haywire is strange. I was worried about being run around which is why I declined all the HVAC lines and carbon build-up and all that stuff. That shop did the thing I paid them for and I did get better gas mileage for the second leg of the road trip than the first, at least. The local shop I took it to today at least didn't charge me because all they did was read the codes and tell me it wasn't something they could fix. The other local shop didn't recommend all the other BS, but they're the ones that had the change in ownership, sick tech, and more, but they're my only convenient option. I'm hoping that it stays just the traction control errors and is easier to fix but yeah I dunno. Also I just used "shop" generically but both the place mid-trip that recommended all the crap and the local shop with the changing ownership are dealerships, the third one was an independent shop. I'm a complete novice with electrical anything and have none of the tools, so while I'm willing to learn it's not my first line of thought generally. DildenAnders posted:Are you the original owner? Does the car have any flood damage? Does the car have any aftermarket lights/stereo/security/stuff that might be spliced into wiring? Im not an expert but that sounds to me like some majorly hosed up wiring somewhere, maybe a whole harness with a big short in it. Uthor posted:Have squirrels gotten into the engine bay and started biting through wires? I bought it used in ~2014 when it only had like 1,500 miles on it, I have no history of that first bit of time. I don't think it was ever flooded or modified or anything, and this is the first significant issue I've had with it in the past decade of ownership. The only other non-routine maintenance I've really had was the cable for the shift loosening enough it sporadically had trouble starting, and I had a tire blow out on me a few years back, but that's pretty much it as far as I can remember offhand. Nothing aftermarket, the closest thing to a sound system I have is an aux cable and an MP3 player. Squirrels is... actually vaguely plausible, I don't have a garage so it just sits in the driveway and is often idle for a week or two at a time before I need to go somewhere. I'll look into a code reader and like, multimeter to check stuff, especially if the local dealer is still a mess like last time. I've used them before and they've been fine but I get the feeling they were in the process of the sale so their good techs quit, they were super backed up, and nobody cared. Maybe they brought a new crew in by now.
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Mar 8, 2024 19:52
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Nighthand posted:Squirrels is... actually vaguely plausible, I don't have a garage so it just sits in the driveway and is often idle for a week or two at a time before I need to go somewhere. Not sure how common it is, but something I went through. The padding under the hood was packed with corn seeds, too. But, animals finding warmth and protection inside a car is something that happens and they like to bite things.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:13
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Do you have an iPhone or Android? You can buy a really cheap (seriously, I think mine was 11 dollars) Bluetooth or Wi-Fi elm327 clone on Amazon and the torque pro app for 5 bucks and that'll cover basically all powertrain codes and data on anything 96 and later. Get Wi-Fi if iPhone, Bluetooth if Android.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:20
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Uthor posted:Not sure how common it is, but something I went through. The padding under the hood was packed with corn seeds, too. But, animals finding warmth and protection inside a car is something that happens and they like to bite things. kastein posted:Do you have an iPhone or Android? You can buy a really cheap (seriously, I think mine was 11 dollars) Bluetooth or Wi-Fi elm327 clone on Amazon and the torque pro app for 5 bucks and that'll cover basically all powertrain codes and data on anything 96 and later. Get Wi-Fi if iPhone, Bluetooth if Android. Android yeah, I'll check that out. The cost isn't really the roadblock for me so much as the knowledge of where to even start tracking something like this down, but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get to that point.
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Mar 8, 2024 20:30
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Nighthand posted:Android yeah, I'll check that out. The cost isn't really the roadblock for me so much as the knowledge of where to even start tracking something like this down, but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get to that point. In that case, the app you want is called Torque. The free version along with a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter can pull codes, but the paid version is only $5.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:11
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Nighthand posted:Android yeah, I'll check that out. The cost isn't really the roadblock for me so much as the knowledge of where to even start tracking something like this down, but that's a bridge I'll cross when I get to that point. As a general rule if a lot of seemingly unrelated things are throwing codes at once that's a sign of either a ground issue causing the sensor to freak out or something disrupting the bus the sensor is on causing failures or bad data.
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Mar 8, 2024 22:16
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The goddamn calipers were swapped all along. Thanks Powershift and everyone else for saving us from this unending misery.
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Mar 8, 2024 23:15
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WTFBEES posted:The goddamn calipers were swapped all along. Thanks Powershift and everyone else for saving us from this unending misery. We've all been there. I'm glad it's sorted. Hopefully you can take it out and enjoy it now.
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Mar 8, 2024 23:25
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WTFBEES posted:The goddamn calipers were swapped all along. Thanks Powershift and everyone else for saving us from this unending misery. Hell yeah
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Mar 9, 2024 01:36
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WTFBEES posted:The goddamn calipers were swapped all along. Thanks Powershift and everyone else for saving us from this unending misery. What a relief! Glad to have passed along / contributed in some small way to unfucking this issue. A reminder the my neighbor drove his truck for almost a year this way. It was a post on a Chevy truck forum that got us pointed in the right direction. My mental sticking point was that I had never encountered mirrored calipers before. There was always something inherent in the design: the hose connection was oriented weird; the caliper cage didn't align with the rotor; just plain wouldn't fit; etc.
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Mar 9, 2024 05:57
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Short notice but - if you have some poo poo going on with your car that you can't figure out and you're near Centralia WA, PM me for location, I'm going to be at a mutual aid wrenching day there for a local car club starting around 10:45. I think we're pretty booked up for significant repairs for the day but if you need diag help and/or to borrow tools there will be plenty of space and help available outside and possibly inside the shop. This is free, only thing you need to buy is your own parts, several parts stores in town. Donations to pizza fund are welcome but absolutely not required.
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Mar 9, 2024 18:08
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kastein posted:Short notice but - if you have some poo poo going on with your car that you can't figure out and you're near Centralia WA, PM me for location, I'm going to be at a mutual aid wrenching day there for a local car club starting around 10:45. I think we're pretty booked up for significant repairs for the day but if you need diag help and/or to borrow tools there will be plenty of space and help available outside and possibly inside the shop. This is cool as poo poo and also there should be more of this everywhere.
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Mar 9, 2024 18:52
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:25 |
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I should also mention that this is a Drive Deviant event. It is an explicitly pro LGBT, leftist car club. Straights welcome, right wingers absolutely not.
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Mar 9, 2024 19:00
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