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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



wesleywillis posted:

I swear I'm not trying to start an argument. I swear it.


When you do a brake job, do you put any lube on the "ears" of your brake pads?
...

What's AI's thoughts on the matter?


Never. Just on the guide pins. They're sealed behind boots.

I have had to wire brush or -wheel crap & surface corrosion out of the slots in the caliper that they sit & slide across, though.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Same. I'll sometimes use the stainless steel guide ear sliding clips that some brake pad kits include but only if the pads slide smoothly with them in, sometimes they're too thick and the pads bind.

I really don't like grease anywhere near my brakes, so even if I do use it, I use as little as possible.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I'm also team minimal grease. I just make sure the pins are greased and move freely, and maaaaybe a light coat on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Only grease the slides

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Only slides. I've never removed a brake pad that was still greased. Just dust and gunk and rust.

I wonder if it's an assembly thing where they're protecting a newly built car from having issues from sitting.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Slap the pads in, grease pins.

Old days, you had to some slather some crap on for squealing. Now with the shims they add on it is no worry at all.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Great I had this same question as I'm working over the brake calipers on my 900

Post electrolysis:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I'm not aware of any instances where they are greased at assembly, for what it's worth.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'm going to come out as in favor of "grease every contact point that isn't pad-to-rotor" but given the stack of shiny stainless shims that modern pads come with, I should probably relax on this.

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005
I'm buying tires for the first time. Is there anything crucial to know between brands? I drive a 2008 subaru WRX and this is the first time replacing tires. It had Continental Extreme Contacts but I don't think I need a tire this good. The car is bone stock and I drive it as such. Should I be wary of getting Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires? Its the cheapest option with the mileage and performance ratings as similar brands. I'm also considering BF Goodrich Advantage Controls as they are available soonest (I popped a tire today so am in more of a rush to get it replaced).

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Immolat1on posted:

I'm buying tires for the first time. Is there anything crucial to know between brands? I drive a 2008 subaru WRX and this is the first time replacing tires. It had Continental Extreme Contacts but I don't think I need a tire this good. The car is bone stock and I drive it as such. Should I be wary of getting Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires? Its the cheapest option with the mileage and performance ratings as similar brands. I'm also considering BF Goodrich Advantage Controls as they are available soonest (I popped a tire today so am in more of a rush to get it replaced).

It'd be good to know your climate (snow, freezing temps, ice, etc).
I like to use Tirerack to see how people rate their tire choice. You can use their tire decision guide to help you too. I don't see that they stock Uniroyal though.
The BF Goodrich are rated quite well though.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...ndex=0#allTitle
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...20Valve%20Stems
There's also a tire thread:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005

Kia Soul Enthusias posted:

It'd be good to know your climate (snow, freezing temps, ice, etc).
I like to use Tirerack to see how people rate their tire choice. You can use their tire decision guide to help you too. I don't see that they stock Uniroyal though.
The BF Goodrich are rated quite well though.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...ndex=0#allTitle
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...20Valve%20Stems
There's also a tire thread:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596

Upstate NY, so snow is common. But I've also never felt the need to buy winter tires, if the weather is bad enough I'm able to stay home.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
i dont really understand why you would buy a WRX and then put poo poo rubber on it

Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

i dont really understand why you would buy a WRX and then put poo poo rubber on it

Its plenty of fun to drive without getting close to pushing the tires.

But that's really what I'm asking, are the options I'm talking about really "poo poo" and should be avoided? Or are they OK if I'm driving my WRX like a Camry?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Tiger Paws are shite, those definitely should be avoided. The BFG’s look decent though. Options abound on TireRack and similar, but if you’re trying to get this on the road, they’d be sufficient it sounds like.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

i dont really understand why you would buy a WRX and then put poo poo rubber on it

Air Jordans on a quadriplegic.

200-220HP?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Putting my all seasons back on my E46 and I forgot to label them last time. The car is AWD with about 2/3rds of the power goig to the rear IIRC. Two tires look slightly more worn than the other pair. I'm guessing they were on the rear last time and should go on the front this time?

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I’d hazard a guess the more worn ones were up front even on a RWDish car. I don’t know how much it will matter ultimately if you start keeping track and rotating properly from here. TireRack has a nice guide if you are interested: https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-is-the-best-way-to-rotate-tires

FWIW, I avoid this by putting them in labeled trash bags.

Star Man
Jun 1, 2008

There's a star maaaaaan
Over the rainbow
I'm pretty sure the answer to this question is: "Replace the door."

I finally got around to replacing the busted door handle on the passenger side rear door after some jagoff tried to park at an odd angle and hit my car in a parking lot in August 2019. A combination of the pandemic, exhaustion from being a postal clerk during the pandemic, and the embarrassment of what was then a false start on replacing the window regulator on the opposite door (because of said exhaustion and Wyoming is the land of wasps and yellowjackets in the dry hot summer) that also went out and my door panel being in sub-assembly, my insurance claim lapsed and I never got this issue fixed under insurance.

I tried to push on the dent from the inside, but it won't give. I'm terrified that I'm going to make it worse if I overexert. I got a feeling that if I try to do this with my bare hand or a dent puller, it's going to gently caress up the paint and crack it. Is a dent like this even fixable, especially after almost five years being like this? Again, I'm sure the real answer is to salvage a door. I just want it to look less worse for now.

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!
Nap Ghost
My friend has a 2008(?) Ford Escape. He's temporarily indisposed and we need to move it. We have two keys/fobs that turn in the ignition, and one of the fobs activates the locks, however neither will start the car.

I'm 99% certain it's the Securilock immobilizer preventing it from starting and that my friend has the key with the chip and these other keys have triggered the PATS or something. The battery isn't dead and the securilock indicator on the dash flashes, slowly if the key isn't in the ignition and rapidly if you attempt to start it. Battery isn't dead because headlights show up fine during fob unlock.

Here's what I've tried to get it started:

  • Holding the key in the driver side door lock for 30-60 seconds
  • pulling fuse 36, which is supposed to be the PATS transceiver
  • disconnecting the positive battery terminal for five minutes
  • disconnecting the negative battery terminal with the key in the ON position before reconnecting it
  • various other rekey sequences
  • trying one key 15+ minutes after trying the other, with the other fob nowhere in proximity

Obviously I have full access to the car, battery, fuses, etc. and one working fob, I just don't know the specific incantation to get either of the two keys I have to work.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Star Man posted:

I'm pretty sure the answer to this question is: "Replace the door."my insurance claim lapsed and I never got this issue fixed under insurance.

What do you mean by ths

Star Man
Jun 1, 2008

There's a star maaaaaan
Over the rainbow

PainterofCrap posted:

What do you mean by ths

It means I made a claim with State Farm to get the door replaced and it expired because I never got around to actually taking the car in for the body work

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Star Man posted:

It means I made a claim with State Farm to get the door replaced and it expired because I never got around to actually taking the car in for the body work

Claims don't expire. If you filed a claim & they opened one, call them up & they'll reopen it. You never got the work done; it didn't get any worse for the delay; they'll just reopen the file, and pick it up where you left it off.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

DarkHorse posted:

My friend has a 2008(?) Ford Escape. He's temporarily indisposed and we need to move it. We have two keys/fobs that turn in the ignition, and one of the fobs activates the locks, however neither will start the car.

I'm 99% certain it's the Securilock immobilizer preventing it from starting and that my friend has the key with the chip and these other keys have triggered the PATS or something. The battery isn't dead and the securilock indicator on the dash flashes, slowly if the key isn't in the ignition and rapidly if you attempt to start it. Battery isn't dead because headlights show up fine during fob unlock.

Here's what I've tried to get it started:

  • Holding the key in the driver side door lock for 30-60 seconds
  • pulling fuse 36, which is supposed to be the PATS transceiver
  • disconnecting the positive battery terminal for five minutes
  • disconnecting the negative battery terminal with the key in the ON position before reconnecting it
  • various other rekey sequences
  • trying one key 15+ minutes after trying the other, with the other fob nowhere in proximity

Obviously I have full access to the car, battery, fuses, etc. and one working fob, I just don't know the specific incantation to get either of the two keys I have to work.

Any noise at all when attempting to start the car?

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!
Nap Ghost

Colostomy Bag posted:

Any noise at all when attempting to start the car?

Just the noises from the entertainment system powering on. The engine doesn't even attempt to turn over

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Uniroyal tiger paws are a fine tire they're a budget tire made by michelin. You already know to stay home when its snowing you'll be fine.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Stand up, look down at your feet... This is similar amount of contact patch your cars tires have with the road to handle ALL direction changes. Don't cheap out on tires.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

It is wild how much of a difference tires can make to how a car feels, even if you're not pushing the limits at all.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

NitroSpazzz posted:

Stand up, look down at your feet... This is similar amount of contact patch your cars tires have with the road to handle ALL direction changes. Don't cheap out on tires.
Being cheap doesn't mean cheaping out.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

You can probably find a longer version in my previous posts in the thread but buying used tires with 75%+ life left can be an extremely good deal. Often these tires are just on cars that get written off and they're sold to the used tire place. I find I generally pay 35% of what I would be paying new, and my place mounts them, balances the wheels, and gives me a one year replacement coverage in case I get a puncture from a nail or whatever. Woman owned shop also which is nice. YMMV.

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

You can probably find a longer version in my previous posts in the thread but buying used tires with 75%+ life left can be an extremely good deal. Often these tires are just on cars that get written off and they're sold to the used tire place. I find I generally pay 35% of what I would be paying new, and my place mounts them, balances the wheels, and gives me a one year replacement coverage in case I get a puncture from a nail or whatever. Woman owned shop also which is nice. YMMV.

This is what I do as well. My tire guy has a few grades of used tires including barely-used ones. Not sure I'd recommend it to someone who doesn't know what to look for though. Might end up with some dry rotted linglongs or something.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Steve French posted:

I've got a frustration situation. Took delivery of a new car, in Nevada, December 23rd. I live in California, and the routine here when buying a new car out of state is that you go to the DMV, pay registration fees (including any difference in sales tax), then get the new car smogged, send all the paperwork back to the dealer, they then send more paperwork back to the CA DMV to wrap things up and you get plates etc. In the meantime, the DMV gives you temporary registration good for a few months. Mine's good until March 3rd.

The problem: after about 1000 miles and a month or so, emissions monitors were finally ready for a test. Before I could get it in for a smog check the next day, it _also_ popped a check engine light, so there goes the smog check. P138C (issue with charge air cooler bypass position sensor). It seemed from searching around that it might be an intermittent or just new-car problem, and I had time, so I just reset the codes and tried again. Nearly 1000 miles later, the code was pending again, and monitors still not ready. So I scheduled a dealer appointment to have them look at it. Code popped again yesterday, appointment is today. And I've now got two weeks before I need to have it registered fully.

This is a probably pretty uncommon situation, with across state lines purchasing and a new car not ready for smog, but hoping _someone_ has some clues here about what I can do here. I'm concerned that the dealer won't fix it properly fast enough, and even if they do, that codes will be cleared and I'll be back to square one getting ready for smog, and if that takes 1000 miles again it's just not gonna happen without me really going out of my way in the next two weeks. What the gently caress happens if I get past that time and I can't legally drive the car because it hasn't passed smog but I can't get it to pass smog without driving it a fuckload?

What recourse do I have with the dealer/manufacturer here? The car's been otherwise great (well, aside from the infuriatingly inconsistent carplay connection).

As an aside, I'm already pissed at the dealer service department; I live a decent drive away from the dealer, so it's kind of a pain to get home afterwards, and this is also my primary winter family vehicle (and a big storm is coming next week) and when I called to schedule the appointment last weekend I asked for a loaner (explaining both the time sensitive situation and the challenges with not getting one), the person I spoke with said they'd need a manager to determine that and they'd have them give me a call back on Monday. Call never came. I called earlier this week and got no response. I called again yesterday morning, was told they'd find the manager responsible and call me back. Much later in the day, finally got that call back and was informed that they couldn't give me a loaner today, would I like to reschedule? I don't have time to reschedule.

Fun update on this. When I brought it in, they said they found the problem: bad EGT sensor. Replaced it.

I went to the DMV to talk to them about it, they were super chill and gave me a month extension. Tried to give me two but said the system wouldn’t let them. In and out in 7 minutes (pro tip: go during a blizzard…???)

After another 1500 miles, monitors still weren’t ready and the same code was pending. Brought it to the local smog place just to see what they had to say about it, suggested driving it more aggressively based on what their scanners said.

Code popped, CEL, less than a mile into my return trip home.

Brought it back to the dealer this morning, had to gripe again to get a loaner (“we don’t have any available” “okay can you rent me something? I need to get home” “let me talk to a manager…oh you know what it just so happens we got one back late last night so you can have that.

A few hours later they called back and said they diagnosed it: a software issue they’ve seen on a few others. GM has no fix for it, and no ETA for a fix. I can go pick it up now, and keep driving it, there’s “no driveability concerns”.

Except for the detail of getting it titled and registered.

In the meantime I went to the DMV again, and got another renewal. This time until the end of May. The clerk seemed surprised that my lender hadn’t hassled me about it, as they don’t like it when they don’t get titles to the vehicles they have loans for. So that’s something to look forward to.

Anyway I’m okay for a little bit here but escalating through GMC proper, and will be thoroughly researching lemon laws.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

DarkHorse posted:

Just the noises from the entertainment system powering on. The engine doesn't even attempt to turn over

Last time started?

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!
Nap Ghost

Colostomy Bag posted:

Last time started?

The previous day.

Tried it just now with the original key and although the securilock light doesn't light up it still won't even attempt to turn over. Hopefully all the stuff I did trying to get the other keys to work didn't mess it up

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


DarkHorse posted:

Just the noises from the entertainment system powering on. The engine doesn't even attempt to turn over

You can buy or make a starter switch and jump the starter to see if it will even turn over.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jptOflQnO4k

Forscan with most OBD2 dongles can diagnose and program PATS. They charge yearly for an extended license now but there's a 2 month trial.

https://forscan.org/download.html

Powershift fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Apr 2, 2024

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Vroom Vroom, BEEP BEEP!
Nap Ghost
Remember that Ford I couldn't get to start?

Apparently it's a known issue that the ignition can sometimes not make contact if you don't push the key in hard enough while you turn it.

God loving damnit

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

File a NTSB complaint.

Please.

Big Ass On Fire
Jun 16, 2023

I've got an older RX350 that has developed a bad rattle and creak from the driver's side C pillar. I thought it was the bumper as I backed into a rock wall last year but had a body shop spend a few hours on it and my mechanic took a listen too and they both said C pillar. Body shop said they fixed it but didn't.

This car has hail damage repair. Body shop said the people who fixed hail dents years ago drilled through the top of the C pillar parallel with the ground toward the front , probably to hammer out dents. At this point I want to pull panels and trim off and try to figure out what is going on and see if I can either fix it or get it pinpointed so I can take it in and tell someone to fix it. I bought the clips but does anyone have any advice for approaching something like this? I don't mind buying tools, scopes whatever.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Colostomy Bag posted:

File a NTSB complaint.

Please.

NHTSA

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Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

lol, sorry, Boeing was on my mind with that one.

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