|
timing: maybe you're still pretty far off. wonky carb settings (or whatever) can mask wildly wrong timing. does your timing gun have a long enough cable to be able to go under the car with it to see where the mark actually is? maybe move the gun forwards or backwards on the firing order to see how far off it is. you're doing this with the vacuum advance disconnected, right? cause that'll throw you off by like 12 degrees, ask me how i know lol brakes: did you bench bleed the master before installation? also make sure there isn't some slightly loose fitting somewhere bleeding off all your pressure.
|
#
¿
May 17, 2023 07:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 09:38 |
|
|
hedgegnome posted:as for the distribuitor.. i was super careful with stabbing it in there. mostly. rotor facing #1, made sure it was lined up with the #1 on the cap.. how hard would it be to be off a tooth? the drive gear is helical, so the shaft/rotor will turn as you remove or install the distributor. so if you started with the rotor pointing at #1, it won't be once it's fully seated. so it could still be off a little bit. i like to mark where the rotor started when fully seated, and where it ended up pointing when removed. however, being off by a tooth or whatever won't matter as long as there's room to adjust the distributor position. all the distributor does is trigger the coil (points or hall pickup or whatever), and route the spark (cap/rotor). it doesn't know what direction it's actually facing. so if the gear is off by a tooth, the whole distributor will just end up rotated a bit once you get the timing set correctly. as long as there's room for the advance canister and whatever other protrusions, it can be in theoretically any orientation.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2023 08:01
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I'm not sure if you can spin the pulley with a drill or something to do this yeah thats not a thing. you need to at least power the field winding, which on domestics comes from the dash bulb
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2023 06:06
|
|
|
iirc, the ones used on hotrods aren't just straight off a DD. people move the vanes closer to each other to get more compression, making them more suitable to a hotrod motor. modern ones you buy from BDS or the blower shop or w/e are already set up that way, but it would be some custom machining on an old DD pull. plus, there's all the pulley/belt stuff that has to be adapted onto the snout, and if it's anything like other front accessory stuff, it probably won't be cheap unless you're making your own. i mean by all means go for it, see what happens, just keep in mind that pretty much anything you see sticking through a camaro's hood or whatever isn't actually a detroit.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2023 07:43
|
|
|
weiand? they're another one of the OG speed parts companies known for doing blower stuff
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2023 08:57
|
|
|
i have nothing particular to add, but lmao that is exactly the right way to test if you have a limited slip
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2023 06:52
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:For shits and grins I tried this in my TJ today and even with size 13 feet there is no way you can maneuver your foot enough to keep it on the pedal for the entire travel, while keeping your heel planted. I don't recall my Ranger being any different in that regard. yeah because of that post i realized that in my car i actually do start out that way, i.e. with my heel on the floor and hinging my toe around the heel, but only for the free-play part of the pedal travel. after that first bit, once the pedal starts to have some resistance, i pick my heel up off the floor and push with my whole leg. it's been a while since i have driven a manual ranger, but i don't remember the pedals being close enough to the floor to consider doing this. definitely too far in my F100. thanks for posting about it, travic, i wasn't aware that i did this until we had this discussion.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2023 09:25
|
|
|
yeah rubber deteriorates due to time, as well as due to being run around metal cogs a whole bunch of times.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2023 21:06
|
|
|
bird with big dick posted:You can buy kits that will remove them. Can also usually buy a slightly larger socket and pound it on with a mallet. couple years ago, an FC near where i was living at the time had its wheels stolen. it was wearing RPF1s, which are some of the cheapest aftermarket wheels, and surely less than the oem honda wheels in question. i was pretty surprised that it got targeted, but apparently it was. e: remembered they were RPF1s, and found an old pic. 
Raluek fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jun 25, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2023 19:51
|
|
|
yeah start with twisting (you can grab the hose with pliers, above the barb, and get some leverage on it), and then try sticking things in the end if you can (curved picks? small screwdrivers?), and then if none of that works, you can cut it off.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2023 20:58
|
|
|
lol are the quarter windows fake on those? i never noticed
|
|
#
¿
Jul 8, 2023 22:25
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Not sure where else to put this, but what are the pros and cons of using loctite on Exhaust manifold studs? iirc doesnt toyota use loctite on the head side of their exhaust studs? seems like it would at least not hurt e: yea these  Deteriorata posted:The problem is that the slow leak won't remain slow for very long. It's probably a nail in the tire that mostly seals. Over time it will gradually ream out the hole and leak more and more. If you're close to needing new tires anyway and just want to limp along for a few months, then you can probably ignore it. If the tires have a lot of life left on them, pay the money to get it fixed and be done with it. you never know. ive had multiple screws in one of the tires of my truck for... at least 4 years? i took it in once to get it fixed and they said it was unfixable because there were two punctures that were too close to each other. now those tires are finally wearing out, and in the mean time ive had to top it up every 6 months or so when i remember. Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jul 19, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2023 06:32
|
|
|
could be. the site i grabbed that pic from calls it "thread seal" which isn't very specific. https://www.yotashop.com/exhaust-stud-toyota-genuine-exhaust-stud-with-thread-seal-90116-10150/
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2023 10:28
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:It was actually for a small Kubota diesel but thanks. plugging a tire will get you home if you're way out in the sticks without a spare, but i would feel more comfortable with a real patch. i wonder how bad those things mess with tire balance.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2023 12:06
|
|
|
latinotwink1997 posted:Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise it’d get air in the system. I don’t do brakes myself simply because of this limitation. in addition to the ways posted about already (speed bleeders, pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder) i have had some success using a method i read about recently: use a longer tube than normal, make sure it goes up a good 6-8 inches off the bleeder nipple before it comes back down into whatever bottle you're using. the idea is that you create a column of brake fluid in the vertical part, so you can sit in the driver's seat and pump away (  ) with the bleeder open. air and fluid will push through, and when you bring the pedal back up it'll suck some of the fluid back in. the bubbles should float to the top, so they shouldn't get re-ingested.this has worked for me about two of the three times i have used it, the third time i probably didn't have it set up right. it's a little fiddly. but it's mostly free, and really simple once you have it set up.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 22, 2023 09:55
|
|
|
sleepy gary posted:I have a b5.5 passat that is locked and the battery is dead. The key cylinders are jammed up so I can't unlock the thing manually or with the fob. What's the easiest way for me to get into the car? i dont know those cars specifically at all, but have you tried all the lock cylinders including the trunk? does the trunk have a passthrough or an always-on 12V outlet?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2023 06:43
|
|
|
hedgegnome posted:hi! so i think i have a bad head gasket on my 318 (68 barracuda). i got 30 psi on the compression check for cylinder 7, 120 on everything else.. so i pulled the intake off today with the plan being to get the heads off. i really dont want to pull the engine, im not set up well for doing that.. it still ran ok, so if i can get away with just a head gasket and head work ill be happy. don't just rely on compression numbers, do a leakdown test. find where the air is escaping. do that before you pull the head. the coolant in your valley is just from taking off the intake, and some of it could have ended up in the oil pan through the oil return holes, so that won't tell you anything. you'll have to change your oil anyway before you run it because of the coolant that's now in it.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 27, 2023 08:31
|
|
|
NotNut posted:Why do you put a black jumper cable on a metal part of the dead car instead of the corresponding terminal? when you complete a circuit, any circuit, there is a small arc as the electricity jumps the small gap at the end. usually it's tiny and doesn't matter. dead batteries can emit hydrogen, which is explosively flammable. so, it's wise to make the last connection farther away from the battery, if possible. the other connections don't make an arc because there's no complete circuit, so you only have to worry with the last one (unless you accidentally touch the cables together or something like that)
|
|
#
¿
Aug 9, 2023 07:54
|
|
|
Ambassadorofsodomy posted:THeres probably a ground wire, or the horn is grounded to the chassis itself somewhere. Check/clean that. arent horns usually actuated by ground? like, hot (fused) wire straight to the horn, then trigger by grounding the wire through the steering column maybe cars with relays do something different?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2023 09:16
|
|
|
stupid question time. i recently picked up a couple carbs from some guy, a demon 650 and holley 600. i am pretty familiar with most 4-barrels, but these are my first double pumpers. in my initial poking around, checking that the accelerator pumps are shimmed correctly, setting throttle stops correctly, etc, i noticed that the demon doesn't open its secondaries all the way. holley 600 for reference:  opens about this far before the secondaries start moving:  secondaries open all the way:  ok, so far so good. the demon:  opens a lil further before the secondaries start moving:  and, when fully open, the secondaries are still a few degrees from vertical, unlike the holley (ignore the schmutz i still need to clean out of there)  so, my stupid question is, i should adjust this, right? i don't see any obvious adjustability in the linkage. the little bent rod between the primary and secondary linkages (top leftish in first photo) looks like it's easily removed, but i don't think i've seen different lengths of these before. all i can think of is to just bend it a little to resize it, but that seems pretty jank.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2024 10:27
|
|
|
 i have 3.25" between the ground and the headers, and ive taken it down some pretty sketchy roads and unmaintained driveways. gotta take a careful line, but it's doable. 5+ inches would be no problem
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 04:53
|
|
|
i bought a jeep just so i would stop doing poo poo like this to my daily driver, but then i broke the jeep lol
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 05:17
|
|
|
i approve. bonus points if the expedition is 4x4 so you get those four-wheel street launches. there's a guy with a lifted NA around the corner from me, he always seems like he's having a good time
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 05:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 09:38 |
|
|
hell yeah. post a project thread and do it up. or, rather, down.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2024 05:54
|
|