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VelociBacon posted:Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Voltage, surely? You're not going to be able to measure automotive current with a cheap multimeter.
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Apr 23, 2015 07:32
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Elmnt80 posted:Its my first time pulling a drive shaft out of a car. Is there anything I should do in advance or watch out for? (aside from apply parking brake, block the wheels and don't just shove the shaft back into the transmission side when done) If you're pulling the yoke out of the transmission, be advised that the tailshaft seal often rides on the yoke. So, you might get a nice fluid surprise when you pull it out.
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Apr 24, 2015 02:23
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Counterpoint: I let a then-three-year-old battery sit for two years when my car had a dead motor, threw it on a trickle charger overnight, and have been using it since. Sometimes batteries can surprise you.
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Apr 26, 2015 02:53
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SD-455 posted:I'm looking at a 1970 Impala that's missing the ignition lock cylinder, they lost the keys and took out the cylinder with the intention of replacing it then never did. Since the original cylinder is already out, the new one should basically just snap in and be ready to go, right? As long as they didn't destroy anything by taking it out that is Is it still in the dash in '70? If so, it just plugs in, sticks through from the back, and there's a trim ring that secures it from the front.
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Apr 28, 2015 00:42
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Fart Pipe posted:Yea 70 had it in the column with the lock, Im pretty sure. Should only need to replace the cylinder with the matching key if the old one has been removed. I think 68 was the last year for the dash mounted ignition switch. Alright, good to know. I've never worked on the column ones, so I can't be much help. I'd imagine you'd just have to pull the plastic off the column and then there should be some sort of catch that lets you install or remove the lock cylinder, but that's just conjecture. Hopefully someone who knows those newer ones will be able to clear it up.
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Apr 28, 2015 01:32
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some texas redneck posted:You should be adjusting it while it's running. If it's like a small block V8, the bottom of the distributor will drive the oil pump; it will either go in correctly or 180 degrees out. Unless he really manhandled it in there, or intentionally rotated the oil pump (because he knew it was off by a tooth). So basically if he was careful with putting it back in, that shouldn't happen. Of course, it came back set wrong, so who knows how much care was taken.
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Apr 29, 2015 05:37
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Honestly, I'd not be scared of RWD at all. Simplest drivetrain configuration there is (assuming longitudinal FR layout), and I've been told that they're just fine in the winter if you get snow tires and drive with a bit of awareness.
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May 1, 2015 06:49
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InitialDave posted:Ok, this is the random one: What is the width across the widest point of the pan on a TH400 transmission, with/without the vacuum unit attached? And is it "centred" compared to the driveline, or offset to one side? poo poo like this is one reason why I don't intend to own anything past the smog cutoff year, '75. At least, not for as long as I live here. Other than that,it really is nice here; I just wish California wasn't so full of Californians. But, glass houses, etc. Sadly I can't answer your TH400 question, because I am a scrub who has a TH350. I did find this:  But for some reason it doesn't exactly match their measurements for the low profile pan, so I somewhat question the accuracy of those measurements. As far as centeredness, the best pictures I can find are these:  
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May 4, 2015 19:28
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taco_fox posted:1994 Chevy C1500 What does the wear pattern look like? If you can post a picture, maybe we can tell if it's due to under/overinflation, bad alignment, or just normal even wear.
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May 7, 2015 20:13
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Well, once you figure out what it came out of, it might still not be legal. I'm sure you've already read into it, but the donor motor has to be from the same model year or newer, as well as from the same vehicle class. I assume wagons are "cars" for that purpose, but I've been wrong before. Plus, there's all the hassle with getting the swap refereed, but I'm not sure how complicated that is. I suppose if you can make it look externally stock, you can cross your fingers and hope that nobody notices that it's an EJ22 instead of an EJ25.
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May 8, 2015 10:01
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. Mitsu 4G/4D motors? Haven't those been in just about everything?
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May 10, 2015 23:11
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Godholio posted:It's a Chevy small block. Usually people talk about the SBC referring to the Gen 1 (your 327s and 350s, etc), while the LS1 is the Gen 3 (started in 1997). Yea. They only used the Gen 1 motors from 1955 to 2003.
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May 11, 2015 01:06
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JacquelineDempsey posted:"Just curious" side note: I've never driven without power steering before, and holy poo poo did I have to haul on that wheel to do the hard right back into the driveway. Is that what driving an old, non-power car is like? I can't speak authoritatively on the other stuff, but as for this one: usually older vehicles that don't have power steering will have more mechanical advantage (i.e. you have to turn the steering wheel more turns to get the wheels to move the same amount), as well as a larger diameter steering wheel. My truck has no power steering, and, while not effortless, I can parallel park it without killing myself from exertion. Once moving, it's hardly even noticeable I think.
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May 17, 2015 13:29
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root beer posted:Goddamn I love electrical issues! Okay goons, let's see what y'all can do: The lights bit I'd suspect the headlight switch. All those things run through there. I don't really know anything about the Dynasty, but I'd see if I could get my hands on a used part to swap it with to see. If it's not that, perhaps the wiring that feeds the switch? But switches are a more common failure. On the power drain, you'll have to trace the wiring for that one fuse and see what it is. Maybe a lovely aftermarket immobilizer/alarm/remote start/radio/etc? If you've got any of those things, they tend to be installed terribly by previous owners. Good place to start for parasitic drains.
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May 18, 2015 19:58
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and ride a loving bus. At least a bad alternator has predictable symptoms. I don't even know what to make of this poo poo.
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Also, most manufacturers set their speedos to read a bit high, so that you'll go a little slower than you think, rather than a little faster (which is good for them from a liability standpoint). 8% seems a bit high for a modern car, but maybe it's not.
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May 21, 2015 06:39
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Or just put a switch somewhere if you want to be able to turn the camera on anytime, instead of having it come on automatically when you shift into reverse.
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May 22, 2015 23:08
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khy posted:Okay then another question Yeah. If you have some unused spots on the fuse block that you can put a fuse into and use, you can do that. Or use one of those add-a-fuse piggyback adapter things. Pick any circuit that's switched.
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May 23, 2015 00:29
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Bovril Delight posted:You aren't after the best deal. You're after quality work. Look at Yelp and Google reviews for shops, ask around, etc. Yeah, if I wanted to play ball with the guy, I'd look around for a good shop, get a quote, tack on maybe 10-20% (because quotes aren't always accurate), and ask for that amount from the guy. If he balks at the amount, well, hit up his insurance.
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May 23, 2015 21:04
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Enourmo posted:Also I remembered wrong, the motor I'm thinking of was actually a 4.9L I6 (incidentally, the reason the 302 was badged as a 5.0 despite only being 4.94L actual displacement, it was to avoid confusion with the I6). I was about to mention this little fact! The 300 is really a great motor, if you have to have fewer than the correct number of cylinders.
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May 24, 2015 07:31
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Cthulhuite posted:Have you checked any scrappers or junk yards in your area? A 90s F150 isn't exactly a rare vehicle, I'd be surprised if there wasn't one there you could rip a bracket from and it'd probably cost you <$10. This. Finding stock replacement accessory stuff aftermarket is always a crapshoot, since there are so many variants year-to-year. I'd just go to the yard with a mental image of what you're looking for, and root around in the Fords until you find it.
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May 27, 2015 05:43
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Slavvy posted:Am I misunderstanding how a 3800 works or something cause I can't imagine why a bad lifter would hurt your cam at all - it'd be putting less load on it because it absorbs some of the force instead of transmitting all of it to the valve spring. If it stays collapsed, the cam lobe is going to be smashing into the lifter (or, if the slack is elsewhere, there will still be shock loading) instead of a constant force on it. I can't imagine that's good for it, even though it's a nice forging. Do the 3800s use the same lifters as the roller small blocks? Those should be easy to find, if so.
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Jul 7, 2015 05:54
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Ok. I found the parts on Rockauto. $5 each for a package of 16. I guess there's a reason they're sold in packs of 16 for a V6 engine. Probably the same lifter as the V8, so they're packaged in the larger quantities, if I had to guess. I'd just get a used one or something, or buy one in quantity 1 from Summit Racing or even your local GM dealer. I just looked at a picture, and those sure do look like an '86+ V8 roller lifter. A popular upgrade is the LS7 lifter, which is all GM stocks anymore. Point being, you can grab one from a junkyard, or just spend a couple extra bucks to get one somewhere else, so you can skip having to buy a whole set from Rock. Normally I wouldn't suggest that, but since you're just trying to limp it along...
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Jul 7, 2015 07:15
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HaB posted:327 stuff I'd agree with everyone saying that it sounds like idle mixture. But, if you have another coil you can jam in there to test with, that's easy and quick to do. Do you have a timing light? I'd make sure your base timing is right, too. Too low base timing (and thus relying on the mechanical advance getting you back into the "ok" zone) might have that problem, and I guess weak spark might have a similar effect? I dunno, man. Like they say, whenever your gut tells you it feels like a carb problem, it's timing. Whenever it tells you it's a timing problem, it's the carb. Where are you located? Maybe there's an AIer who can lend a hand, or a spare coil, or something. Edit: I just remembered that there was a time I had a compromised air filter (there was a plastic spacer between the carburetor and filter, and that spacer was cracked), and I had a similar problem. Turned out to be a piece of crud stuck somewhere in the idle circuit of the carburetor. I bought two cans of carb cleaner, took the whole thing apart, and blasted it all out. Ran fine after. I'd kind of suspect that this isn't your problem, because you said it didn't just start all of a sudden; it's been doing that the whole time you've had it. Plus, your idle is set kind of high; I have a mild-to-medium cam in my 350 (LT4 hot cam) and it idles at 650RPM or so in drive. Just out of curiosity, does it "idle" fine if you hold the throttle just baaarely open when you're idling, or does it require you to "punch" the throttle for it to not stall? Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 07:43
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Godholio posted:66 Corvette 327 idle is 550 per the manual. 450 might be right. Does yours have an aftermarket cam? Could be that. I'd say anything in the 450-750 range is acceptable. You'll know by ear if it's too high. Edit: VVV Mine ('65 Impala, roller 350, LT4 hot cam) idles at 650 in gear, 950 out of gear, so 1000 out of gear and 750 in gear isn't too out of line. But I bet once you get the idle mix set right, you can turn down the idle RPM a bit safely. HaB posted:I finally manage to connect up with a vintage car nerd I work with, and he suggested the mix is wrong as well, and also said that the 1960s mechanic quick fix would be to just set the idle about 100 rpms above spec and leave it at that. This guy has CRAZY levels of knowledge about vintage Chevys. The first time I brought it to work, he saw it and walked over and outlayed the entire history of the model, as well as pointing out everything I would need to do to restore it to period-correctness. So I mentioned the problem, and he said checking vacuum and replacing the fuel filter were good first steps, but he said it's probably just the idle being set too low. He said it *could* be the coil, but didn't seem to give that theory much credence. If it's fine just off idle, I'd definitely suspect the idle mixture. The reason I say that is because when you have the throttle open a little bit, most of the air is going to go through the main circuit (the jets) instead of through the idle mixture. I wouldn't mess with the idle speed (those are two separate settings) until you get the mix kind of close, then adjust speed, then adjust mix again. The idle mixture adjustment happens on the two long screws on the front of the carb that stick out and have springs on them; the idle speed happens where your throttle rod hooks onto the carb. There's a little screw that pushes the throttle open a little bit when it's "closed". Engine off, turn one of the idle mixture screws in until it stops; count how many turns it took. I usually do them half a turn at a time. Write down that number, then put it back where it was. Do the same for the other screw. If they're different numbers, set them both for the average of the two. Start the motor, and get it to idle. Work with one screw at a time; turn it counter-clockwise (richer) and listen to the engine. If you have a tach or a vacuum gauge, watch that needle rise. When the RPM stops rising (and/or the vacuum stops increasing), turn the screw the other way until it starts falling and then back it off a little (set it for maximum RPM/vacuum). Do the same for the other screw. Then turn it off, and do step 1 again (count how many turns, and set them for the average if they're different). Then turn down your idle RPM until it's where it sounds like it's not about to die in gear (warm!), and in the RPM range I mentioned earlier (those are in-gear numbers; it will be higher in park/neutral). Then check to see if your mixture settings are still correct. Turn them CCW a bit, if the RPM/vac increases, keep going. If it doesn't, turn them CW until it dips, then back them off a bit. Then balance them again! You get the picture. It's a real simple step, and usually doesn't take me more than 10 minutes or so. Probably took me just as long to write this out as it would take to do it. Maybe you can shanghai your old car friend into giving you a hand? I'm on the west coast, so I can't help you out myself. Hopefully I'm not over-explaining! Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 06:17
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Thanks for the elaboration and speculation. FWIW the truck is a manual 2000 4wd Tacoma with the 2.7 liter. 244k. I asked because the CEL driver is about to borrow it for a few days. This is stupid, but is there a possibility that the borrower doesn't put the gas cap on as tightly as you do? Like, they stop after one click and you go three?
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Jul 22, 2015 17:23
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porkfriedrice posted:There are no other fans. As extra input to your problem, it's normal for the temp to go up while the car sits (the water pump is no longer circulating the water, so it just sits and absorbs the heat from everything without being able to dissipate it) and it's normal for it to go back down once you get the water flowing and air across the radiator again. I'm just slightly concerned about how high it gets. Normal operating temperature (for me, in an unrelated vehicle) is 180-195 degrees, and if I let it sit it'll go up to 210 or so. 235 seems like "too hot" to me, but maybe it's not, in your application?
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Jul 25, 2015 23:56
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Motronic posted:I guess I'm thinking older poo poo with 3/4 speed autos. It's pretty typical there. The TH700R4 and 4L60E that IOC mentioned are 4-speeds. It was my impression that "D" locked out the overdrive gear (fourth; third is 1:1) in those. I don't know of a popular 3-speed overdrive auto, but there might be one.
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Aug 3, 2015 06:51
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cephalopods posted:The numbered ones prevent shifting past those gears, right? Correct. cephalopods posted:Is that just for low traction situations, or is there more to it (or am I even wrong about that?) I use it for a few things. Either for performance situations where I don't want it to upshift, or when coasting down a long hill (e.g. a mountain) and I don't want to ride the brakes. Which sounds like what you meant by switching off overdrive (which may or may not drop a gear, depending on the trans, apparently).
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Aug 3, 2015 07:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've seen some cars where in 2, it will lock the transmission into second and will not downshift either. They use this to make it easier to launch in low-traction situations where even light throttle in first gets you wheelspin. But most cars that I've driven will still shift between first and second with the shifter in 2. Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know.
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Aug 3, 2015 23:03
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Okay, now I've got something to ask about. I think I've already talked about this at some point or another, but at the time I thought I had it fixed. Not so. 1960 F100. Notable that this is the one generation with a hydraulic clutch; before and after used a cable. The clutch bite point is at a different position in pedal travel each time I go to clutch in. Also, it starts out fine sometimes and will slowly get worse (to the point where it will grind going into gear; I assume the clutch isn't releasing all the way), and sometimes it will randomly go back to being fine for awhile. I initially suspected clutch hydraulics. I put a rebuild kit in both the master and slave cylinder (slave first, then when that didn't solve the problem, master). I bled the circuit after each rebuild. Someone suggested to me that the clutch fork pivot ball could be hosed up, and thus the amount of leverage would be moving around. This sounded good to me, so I pulled the inspection cover on the bell housing. However, it feels good in there. I can if it off the ball a little bit, and slide it vertically up and down a little bit, but not in and out. So I don't think it's that. My current hypotheses are that either there's still a hydraulic failure (i.e. a worn out bore that would not have been corrected by the rebuilds), or a mechanical problem between the slave cylinder and clutch fork. It sits on a conical nut, so I can imagine maybe it gets stuck off-center or something? I might also try a stronger return spring; maybe it's not returning all the way. Anyone have thoughts on these symptoms?
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Aug 4, 2015 08:16
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Yes, auto. I looked up some images of the aux trans cooler and no I don't see anything resembling that up front. Checked the fluid and color looks fine but I think may be overfilled? I'm going to check it again tomorrow morning after my drive in to work. Also make sure that you check it with the engine running, transmission in park, on a level surface, after you've driven it a reasonable distance (sitting still running the engine won't heat the transmission up). Often transmissions take a lot less fluid than engines do, so it doesn't take much to throw off your reading.
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Aug 7, 2015 07:02
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Tommychu posted:GenIII SBC intake gaskets are generally reusable unless they're cracked/damaged/crusty right? I've got to do knock sensors on my 2000 LR4. They're just rubber, so yeah they are. But, I just did an LS1 intake, and I had seven perfectly fine gaskets and one slightly torn one so I had to get new ones anyway. So if it's your only mode of transport, I'd get another set and only open it if your old ones look kinda busted.
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Aug 13, 2015 04:45
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Parts Kit posted:Since the truck is my bitch vehicle it's going to get a raspberry pi and a capacitor bank in place of the battery in the nearish future. Dammit, that's what I should have done with that 200lb of 1F stiffening caps I ended up getting rid of.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:34
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Wally Joyner posted:This was it. gently caress yes. Hell yes! We need an AMC thread.
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Aug 15, 2015 07:19
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SD-455 posted:Do i need to replace the boot too or just the master cylinder? Usually the master cylinder (or kit, if you're going to rebuild that one) will come with a new boot. You don't need to change it, but if the old one is torn then you might as well.
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Aug 15, 2015 18:46
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Here's a kind of stupid question: what do you do with junk oily parts? For instance, I have an oil pan that I'm never going to use because the motor ate a bearing and I don't trust it to be free of particulates. I wouldn't want to sell it for the same reason. I'd expect that metal recycling places wouldn't want something with that much oil in it, too, right? So what do?
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Aug 16, 2015 00:19
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Taking it to a trusted mechanic for a look-over is reasonable, and usually runs around a hundred bucks. It's generally referred to a PPI or Pre Purchase Inspection. I'm not sure how specific those are about their timing belt intervals, but it looks like they're non-interference so you wouldn't do catastrophic damage to the engine if it were to break. I guess prices for a timing belt vary, so I won't speculate. Maybe get a quote on that job when you have the PPI? Also, the thing about the heat not working very well on cold days at speed make me think that the thermostat might be non-operational or completely missing. I don't know how easy they are to get to on those cars. E: F, b.
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Aug 17, 2015 04:00
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I have an occasional turn signal malfunction, and it's due to the ignition switch. Wiggling the key in the ignition solved the problem for me. The signals work off of switched 12V, so I guess it's possible to have the key in a position where the car runs normally but doesn't quite make contact with the terminal that runs the blinkers. Probably a 2003 would have a bit more sophisticated electrical system than a 1965, but it's worth a brief look I suppose.
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Aug 20, 2015 20:50
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If the battery stays at a reasonable voltage, it sounds like you've got a corroded connection somewhere. Get in there with a terminal cleaner and a wire brush!
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Aug 22, 2015 22:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, all of that is absolutely sellable. The Flaming River steering U-joints should still be able to be sold quickly at near full retail. They're a bit spendy but they are some of the best in the industry. Same with all those Lokar cables.
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Aug 25, 2015 06:46
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