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Enourmo posted:Could be, you'll need to check pressures before continuing any further. Gauges should be available at any autozone. Yes that will definitely be my go to resource. I just haven't dug in too hard because of the difficulty finding gauges.
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Jun 19, 2015 01:17
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Yousomuscle posted:Thanks for the insight, I checked the fluid reservoir and it's completely full - has been since before and after I changed my brakes, topped it off after that obviously. Again, it shifts just fine going into gears 2(sometimes), 3, 4, 5, and reverse. It's just first gear that causes trouble, and even then just the act of putting the car in gear, the driving is fine. I don't really have the means to lift the car up enough to get underneath the front, and even then I wouldn't know what exactly to look for... I might just have to take it to a garage and have it looked at. Try putting the car in other gears before you put it into first. If that seems to make it easier, it could be synchro related. I had a car that did that, I just sort of got in the habit of running it into other gears before 1st. Also, are you ever shifting into 1st while moving? You shouldn't, and the car being balky about it isnt really uncommon.
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Jun 28, 2015 19:10
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The cmc linkage could be misadjusted (assuming the s2000 works like some fwd hondas) where the clutch bite point is way too high, so the clutch is always partially disengaged, which would cause high rpm slip.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:25
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marsisol posted:Looking for some input on a brake/hub/bearing issue: I have 2 8th gen civics and both have had seized slide pins. The way I found out was I heard a loud pinging sound as the rotor cooled after driving.
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Jul 25, 2015 20:13
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So I want to refresh the suspension on my 07 Civic Si. It has ~130k miles, and I assume the majority of the suspension components are original. I did outer tie rods so far, and have front lower ball joint pars ready to go. I guess my question is, since I am going to have to get the car aligned afterwards, what else should I do up front? I am not really sure how to diagnose suspension issues, the car tends to clunk a little on ruts/bumps and I think the shocks/springs are just tired. But it also has a little bit of a disconnected feeling in the wheel during suspension travel and the front end just feels a little...loose. I am thinking springs/struts all round, maybe the HPF kit (OEM performance kit that is reasonably priced) and the lower ball joints. I just figured while I am in there and getting the car aligned afterwards I should fling as much new rubber at the car at once as I can. Any suggestions based on what I have described? Tires are basically new and seem to be wearing evenly.
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Aug 1, 2015 20:48
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Fluorescent posted:2002 Ford Focus. Sounds like you might have thrown the belt that runs your alternator, which also drives your water pump (the overheating).
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Aug 5, 2015 15:15
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Cool truck!
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Aug 12, 2015 21:18
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Uthor posted:I don't any personal experience, but I'm going to put my money down on this thread's advice being "punch yourself in the crotch, instead." This is probably good advice
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Aug 21, 2015 15:14
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scuz posted:http://www.carcomplaints.com/Dodge/Caliber/2007/ The suspension issues bit is dead on. My buddy had one and at like 90k miles the damned thing swayed like a boat.
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Aug 21, 2015 18:40
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I've got akebono ceramics on my civic si and they are loving legit
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Aug 25, 2015 23:45
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BlackMK4 posted:Looking for a new, fun but practical car in the $25k area. I plan on buying a 6spd GTI w/ lighting/sport packages. TrueCar says it is like $24.5k in my area. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? because...volkswagen? (I want one too but Im scared)
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Sep 2, 2015 22:26
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Blackmk4, are you getting rid of your e46 wagon manual conversion?
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Sep 3, 2015 00:15
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BlackMK4 posted:Yep. Bought a white 2016 6spd 4dr base GTI last night. Wanted the lighting package but it's not that big of a deal. I will live vicariously through your hopefully trouble free GTI ownership experience!
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Sep 3, 2015 23:51
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Ive always wondered if stalling/lurchy shifting can damage motor or trans mounts, or do some other sort of collateral damage from the engine basically bucking around inside the bay?
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Sep 4, 2015 22:42
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Godholio posted:Yes, also clutch damage. Luckily my significant other doesnt drive my car much  Shes actually pretty smooth, but she insists on driving my civic si like it has 3k redline (it doesnt like shifting under 4k, as it makes basically no power under 4k) and doing this thing where she clutches in if she has to slow down at all...then coasting in neutral for a while, picking a gear she thinks it should be in and letting the clutch out. Today we worked on blipping to match road speed and engine speed, but shes still getting the hang.
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Sep 4, 2015 23:14
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two_beer_bishes posted:Update: Centric calipers and rotors with akebono pads are awesome as poo poo! Thanks for all the advice, I'm very happy with these parts and not paying OEM prices! Tuesday I'll tackle the rear drums just because there's nothing in our service records indicating they've been done in the last 255k miles Nice! My akebono ceramics/centric blanks have been baller as hell too.
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Sep 7, 2015 01:57
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So your options are get hosed by the dealer without knowing if they are actually loving you, or getting a rental and paying 100 bucks to get your car towed to someone you trust.
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Sep 8, 2015 18:55
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life is killing me posted:Certainly feels that way sometimes. GJ dude. At the very least you saved yourself 3k and/Or didn't throw away a 5 year old TSX for pennies on the dollar.
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Sep 8, 2015 21:53
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2007 Civic Si (blue, naturally) Got into my car to drive home from work today, and I was hooking up my iphone to my aux cable. Flipped on the stereo and immediately it started making a LOUD rhythmic thumping from the speakers. I panicked and slapped the power button. Unhooked the aux cable/phone, turned it back on..immediately more thumping. Speaker-blowing type of loud. I turned the volume down to zero, still thumping loud as gently caress, no volume change. Tapped power button to turn it off. Got home, went to take a video of it. Turned car back on after it sat for 15 minutes or so, stereo worked fine. Turned car off, turned it back on, big POP and then back to rhythmic thumping. I took a vid on my phone, I will edit the post with a youtube link. No idea what the gently caress could be doing this, assume its a short or a fuse going bad or something... https://youtu.be/pQR-ErcXq4A
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Sep 10, 2015 23:42
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Im not much of a jeep guy, but that generation of the accord has the K24 I-4 engine and as far as I am aware also is the generation where the automatic transmissions were no longer made of glass (assuming its an auto). If its not in as much of a maintenance deficit as the jeep, it should be a pretty reliable car.
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Sep 12, 2015 05:46
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Yeah K series engines just sound super mechanical, they are timing chain motors and always have that muted clackclakclackclackclack sound
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Sep 12, 2015 13:49
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I have considered adjusting the valves on my FA5 Civic (K20Z3), its got 133k on it and I am not sure if its ever been done. It idles really quietly though (for a K series) and doesn't really seem to need it. Good excuse to get the valve cover off and paint it wrinkle red though 
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Sep 12, 2015 16:22
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Sounds like negotiating leverage, since you're going to be immediately lashing out 600 bux for a set of continentals or whatever other tire won't murder you
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Sep 13, 2015 16:17
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There was the goon in a well a week or so ago with the TSX, who ACTUALLY TOOK THE JETPACK AND SOARED OUT OF THE WELL (dealership was trying to gently caress him on a new transmission that may or may not but probably was not neccesary)
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Sep 15, 2015 03:53
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Away all Goats posted:How do you deal with the bit of jerkiness during the moment you let the clutch go and stepping on the gas? Just live with it I guess? Or am I unclutching at too high (or low?) rpm? Do you mean when downshifting? If so, you need to learn to revmatch as mentioned earlier in the thread, by blipping the throttle right before letting the clutch out. If you match the revs with the roadspeed, your downshift can be as smoother than an automatics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3oq3qlrgHc
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Sep 16, 2015 12:17
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From what I have seen online and with my own cars, the service intervals on the K24 series auto trans is bullshit. Change the fluid like every 30-50k, not whatever garbage they tell you (I think the interval is like 75 or 100k?) This basically applies to modern honda manual transmissions too.
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Sep 19, 2015 15:49
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PaganGoatPants posted:I got me an 01 Honda Civic that's making this noise. Gets louder when I turn left. Goes faster if I speed up, slower if I slow down etc etc. Sounds like a bad cv joint to me
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Sep 28, 2015 01:02
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Eifert Posting posted:When I try to secure the stick in second gear it's almost like it's getting spit back out into neutral. the rpm will flare and I usually just throw it into third when I realize what happened. If it's only at high rpm, you're getting locked out of gear because you're not depressing the clutch pedal enough. If you're getting locked out even after pressing the clutch lower, you may need to adjust the cmc/pedal link, or have a very badly worn out clutch. IIRC your car was pretty new, so it may just be a technique issue.
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Sep 28, 2015 04:22
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Hey guys, my 2004 accord is having some intermittent starting issues. It seems to randomly decide to really chug while starting the car. Othertimes it seems to work beautifully. I grabbed my HF multimeter and checked voltage with everything off: hovers in the 12.4v range Turned the car on (after a chuggy start 10 minutes earlier, it of course starts with no issues this time) and turned on a bunch of accessories. Showed 13.8-14v. Checked all connections and wiring and it all looks fine. From what I know, this seems to rule out battery and alternator issues? I turned the car off and it started again with no issues. The same cadence of starter sounds and time it takes to start as it always has. Turned it off, did it again, perfect. Did that a few more times, still no issues. So, uh, whats wrong? My gut feeling still says battery, but the voltage numbers seem OK...
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Sep 30, 2015 23:16
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I'll give that a shot. I'm going to go check the play in the belts and make sure I dont have a belt slipping (doesnt seem like it, no belt-related noises). The battery is probably 4-5 years old at this point, which is one of the reasons I still suspect it.
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Sep 30, 2015 23:24
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The good news is that its my fiances car, and she works about 1/4 mile from our house. So we have some flexibility to wait it out a bit. I just did some googling and theres a lot of starter failures on this model of accord, and they seem to start as an intermittent issue. I will prob just order a started from amazon and send it back if I dont need it. Thanks for the help dudes.
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Oct 1, 2015 00:10
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I thought I had this stupid clutch hydraulics bullshit fixed, but I am getting a bit of a thud and grabbiness when I declutch my civic si (2007). When I got it, the cmc was crunchy and grabbed super low, and didn't disengage fully at higher rpm. I swapped it for an EM1 (older civic hydraulics) with steel lines and other fancy poo poo, and it has since worked great, til the last week or so. The new cmc is starting to make poppy noises too, and the clutch bite point seems to be inconsistent, causing thudding mis-shifts where I guess the rpms arent quite lined up. Im annoyed about it because I fixed this poo poo about 10k miles ago, including a trans oil change. The car has 135k on it, and I assume the original clutch. Next, I am probably going to bleed the hydraulics. Do you think its worth replacing the slave? It has the original. Not sure what to do about the popping cmc, its intermittent and i dont know if the part is warrantied or anything as I bought it from 3rd party vendor. I dont feel like the friction plate is slipping, but regardless could it just be due for a new clutch?
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Oct 9, 2015 22:53
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Raluek posted:Definitely start with a bleed and an adjustment. As far as I know, slave cylinders don't really fail in a way that doesn't lead to external signs (like brake fluid filling up the boot or dripping out). You'll notice when you go to bleed it. I adjusted the pedal free play a little and it helped. Going to bleed next. Have a clutch plate and new flywheel in my amazon inbox, but god drat it is a labor intensive job that I am a little scared of doing myself. Have to drop the subframe like a lot of modern FWD cars.
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Oct 10, 2015 03:08
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Update on my various stupid questions on my Civic Si: Changed MTF (from amsoil to redline mtl) Adjusted linkage, raising bite point a little bled hydraulics Seems to have really helped the shifting issues. Butter smooth going into gear now, no more thudding as it declutches. The Amsoil feels like it breaks down very fast, I only had about 10k on it and it was getting pretty notchy feeling already. I hope the redline stuff stays smooth feeling for longer. My stereo issue that I had a while ago, where it would just go THUMP THUMP THUMP at full volume as soon as it was turned on is also fixed. I scored an oem head unit that matches my system (premium audio) for like 35 bux shipped on ebay. Swapped that in and everything works great. 
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Oct 11, 2015 02:20
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some texas redneck posted:For what it's worth, at least on older (pre-K series) Honda gearboxes, GM Synchromesh (or in my case, Pennzoil's version) made a huge, huge difference in driveability. I threw it in a Civic that had the original gearbox oil with nearly 200k on it (2nd and 3rd synchros were useless, it was grind city without double clutching), and within a few miles I was able to drive it normally without double clutching or grinding, and could actually wind it out to redline in 1st and go into 2nd with only minor bitching from the gearbox. Good advice, that may be the next thing I try if the redline stuff doesn't work out. K-series transmissions are notoriously bitchy and fragile, and this one is still pretty decent and Id like to keep it that way
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Oct 11, 2015 03:49
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I had a similar issue with a bmw coolant gauge (lol) and disconnecting the battery for a while seemed to reset it.
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Nov 4, 2015 22:12
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Stupid winter tire question: inflate to the normal pressures indicated on the driver door sticker? Or something else since they are weird voodoo magic tires
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Nov 23, 2015 20:22
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mungtor posted:Sorry about that. Almost all the way off the pedal. It's disengaged from the floor all the way up through 90% of the travel, and then it engages very sharply. Depending on the pedal/cmc assembly, you may be able to alter the amount that the cmc rod screws into the pedal, changing the bite point of the clutch a bit. It is something to try in very small increments to make sure you don't gently caress something up. Some pedal assemblies also have an adjustable upper stop, that can be messed with a bit too.
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Dec 12, 2015 18:20
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ceebee posted:2004 Honda Accord 4 cylinder? My 2004 accord had basically the same symptoms, and after checking the battery and alt (as you definitely should), they passed so I said gently caress it and ordered this starter from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y87YJG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage It was a bit of a bitchy job, the starter is under the intake manifold. I was able to install it without removing any coolant lines, but it makes the entire job harder as you are working in a triangular opening between the manifold and cylinder head that is about 4 or 5" wide. If I did it again I would fully remove the manifold. But it starts like gangbusters now. Apparently K-series (the 4 cylinder honda engine in your car) starters go bad pretty routinely, the going theory is that the heat of the block/manifold contributes to their early demise. My other car (K-series as well) has a chuggy starter that I am probably going to have to replace next spring. Not pumped about it, but at least I know the amazon one is legit.
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Dec 14, 2015 04:44
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ceebee posted:Turned out to be the battery, but I'll keep that starter thing in mind. Yeah it's a 4 cylinder. That car will run a long time if you keep up with oil changes and change the auto trans fluid every 50k.
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Dec 14, 2015 16:40
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