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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

ah but if you order parts from rock auto you might get a cool fridge magnet

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I believe this vintage has an ECM, which can read high O2 in the exhaust and compensate by running rich (and its worst at idle) if there is an exhaust leak at or near the exhaust header

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

you pop out the memory card and stick it in the card reader on your computer, if you have one. If you don't, you bring the whole camera in and attach a usb cord

this is basically how all dashcams these days work

also you don't have to actually read the dashcam thread, just post your question, but we'll just recommend the Viofo most of the time so don't feel you have to

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

There's been a terrible shortage of used cars, and also many new cars are not actually available at their advertised MSRPs without months of waiting on a waiting list. You are paying for the privilege of having the car you wanted today, rather than in September.

Also don't buy cars from Vroom, those fuckers were horrific to deal with post-sale, it took us months and months and months of calling once or twice a week to get them to register our vehicle, a mandatory service for which they charged us a hefty fee. Those companies have been repeatedly found to be buying cars without obtaining the titles and reselling them anyway, failing to transfer titles, etc.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

They'd far rather you financed a car than cash in hand, lol. Financing is a major source of revenue for auto dealers (who get kickbacks from the lenders).

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also don't breathe it. Ozone is harmful to breathe in. It's criminal that they sell those things to people to "improve the air quality of their home" without making it clear it does that while you're not home and it needs to be turned off and the air cleared out when you and your pets are home.

https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/ozone-generators-are-sold-air-cleaners

The EPA basically says don't buy them, but there's a ton of details to read in this link. I'd be skeptical, and I'd prefer enzymatic cleaners on all porous and semipourous surfaces. Also lots of fresh air.

quote:

Can Ozone be Used in Unoccupied Spaces?
Ozone has been extensively used for water purification, but ozone chemistry in water is not the same as ozone chemistry in air. High concentrations of ozone in air, when people are not present, are sometimes used to help decontaminate an unoccupied space from certain chemical or biological contaminants or odors (e.g., fire restoration). However, little is known about the chemical by-products left behind by these processes (Dunston and Spivak, 1997). While high concentrations of ozone in air may sometimes be appropriate in these circumstances, conditions should be sufficiently controlled to insure that no person or pet becomes exposed. Ozone can adversely affect indoor plants, and damage materials such as rubber, electrical wire coatings and fabrics and art work containing susceptible dyes and pigments (U.S. EPA, 1996a).
A powerful ozone machine inside a camper might actually harm some of the materials inside.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 15, 2023

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah the problem is that the ozone itself doesn't leave byproducts, so advertising says as much: but it can chemically convert other chemicals like formaldehyde (which is a toxic substance outgassed by some synthetics and is also really bad for you) and the conversion byproducts haven't really been studied properly.

I had to look all this stuff up last year because my stepmom's apartment had been filled with smoke when the one below her caught fire, she had to move, and all her stuff reeked of toxic smoke. She wanted to try an ozone machine and I looked it up and was like, oh, oh gosh, no, do not.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah the concerns here are threefold:
1. Safety. A tire that's a different radius (due to being more or less worn than the others), different grip, etc. may cause an accident, or cause an accident to be worse, due to changing the way your car handles and performs when under hard cornering and/or braking.
2. Safety. If one of your tires popped, are the other three on the edge of death too? How worn are they? You should not be driving on bald tires, and three bald tires + 1 not bald tire isn't really better than 4 bald tires
3. Wear & tear on your car. Driving with one tire slightly bigger or smaller than the others puts wear on the differential or other components.

I know money can be really tight for folks, but tires are the most important safety feature of your car. More than the brakes, because your maximum braking potential is limited by the grip of your tires, and also because your tires hanging on in a hard cornering situation while you try to avoid a collision is more important than having an extra five feet of stopping distance in straight line braking. Also brakes are very foolproof and will keep functioning even when badly neglected, at least partially, whereas a cracked, bald, or otherwise defective tire can give out suddenly and catastrophically.

If you can't afford 4 new tires, consider 4 matching used tires. If you cant afford 4 matching used tires, put 2 matching new or used tires on your front wheels. If you can't afford 2 matching used or new tires on your front wheels, you can't afford to drive.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

You're getting rid of this car, right? Does that mean selling it? If so, you will probably get a better price if you put a new battery in it so it starts. If you're selling it for scrap, the simple solution is to take a vigorous power tool to whatever is the most convenient latch and destroy it until you're in the car.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

This is pretty universal: the legal owner should sign over the title to the new legal owner, this is typically accompanied by a bill of sale but in this case it's a gift. The new legal owner should take that signed over title to their own state's DMV and register the vehicle. If it was a gift they may pay a tax based on estimated value whereas if it's a sale they may pay a tax based on actual sale amount, which could perhaps be a whole lot lower, which is why often parents "sell" the car to their kid or whatever. I have not googled louisiana used vehicle sale/registration taxes, you could do that if you wanted.

Legally the title should not "stay under your name" unless you are retaining ownership of the car.

When your daughter registers the car Texas will get whatever info they need directly from Louisiana.

Anyone can pay the insurance but the "named insured" needs to be your daughter, and the insurance is likely to go up a very whole lot because of your daughter's age. If you gently caress around and don't name your daughter as insured, in the event she has an accident you will have to plausibly claim that it's your car (or whoever's) and you only temporarily loaned it to this person and definitely aren't letting her drive it all the time. If your daughter lived with you it's likely that when she got her license you'd have to sign documents from your insurance company explicitly excluding her from the policy, or, not sign those documents and see your insurance go up a very whole lot. In this case what with her not living with you it's a little more complicated but the important thing here is that unless you are comfortable with your daughter/whoever committing insurance fraud, she should be the named insured for a car that is now hers.

May I assume your daughter lives with her mom? Probably her mom needs to talk to her insurance co. and make it clear which cars her daughter will be driving and which she will not be allowed to drive. Maybe she should figure that poo poo out herself.

e. your daughter may have to also fill out an affidavit of gift or similar doc. Read what it says on your texas title and she should read what louisiana says about a gifted vehicle.

e. yes
https://www.carregistration.com/blog/louisiana-omv-title-transfer-guide/
Read the sections titled "Can I Gift a Car to a Family Member?" and "Transferring a Vehicle Title When You Have an Out-of-State Title". You will need to notarize your signing over of the title, and put the correct odometer reading on it.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Nov 2, 2023

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Organ Fiend posted:

Are there any issues with mixing brands (i.e. buy 3 tires with the same specs, but from different brands), or do I need to buy 3 of the same, or 4 of a kind?

You definitely do want the same brand and model tires on the car, don't have like 3 michelins and one hankook on there. You need the two tires on each side of the vehicle to perform the same in wet conditions, emergency braking and cornering, etc. If you absolutely have to mix and match it should at least be matching fronts and matching rears.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

2003 mazda protege5, 168k miles

In Feb 2023, the car failed smog check, it had an exhaust leak, took apart the exhaust manifold and found this mess,




I fixed that poo poo; cleaned surfaces, new gaskets, reassembled. It passed smog after this so I was reasonably confident that the parts I hosed with are fixed now. However car has been sitting a lot and when we drive it it stumbles at idle a bit and drives rough and has even stalled a couple of times. Finally it threw a CEL so we immediately parked it.

I finally bothered to get an ODBII bluetooth reader and I am getting P0171 on Bank 1, a lean condition. The voltage graph for oxygen sensor 1 jumps up and down a lot while 2 is more smooth, and the car is trying to adjust fuel like as much as 17% to try and compensate.

This is all at idle:







The MAF reading moves a lot slower


and oxygen sensor 2 is pretty slow and flat


This is at ~1500rpms


Here's a diagram of the exhaust system for this vehicle from the service manual


The internet gives very basic advice for P0171, like, clean the MAF, check the oxygen sensor on the exhaust, look for vacuum leaks, etc. I am hoping you folks can help me narrow that down. I think I replaced #1, HO2S (front) last year when I had the exhaust system open, but I'm not totally sure if it's that sensor or #11 (rear) that is showing the spikes and I'm also not 100% sure if I replaced either one. It seems likely that what's going on here is my incompetence, right? I've somehow failed to get this poo poo together tight, it's sucking in air somewhere and so the car's trying to compensate for a lean condition? Or maybe I just need to clean these sensors?

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Mar 9, 2024

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Hmm. Well it definitely idles rough and stalls, but if those charts look normal, then maybe I should ignore them and focus on the actual code, which could be a dirty MAF, vacuum leak on the intake side, etc.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

it might refuse to lock if the other key is inside the car

you probably scraped a plastic piece under the engine that is there to protect the engine from drivers like you. It might have torn or cracked. This happens a lot and the pieces are pretty replaceable usually. You could also have damaged something else, though, like a muffler or the bottom of the oil pan etc. depending on how severely wrong you judged the height of that curb.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

yeah possibly so, and that's another random plastic bit

ideally since it's a borrowed car, you should find some way to inspect the underside to see if it's taken significant damage. If you see fluids dripping that'd be a dead giveaway but you could have crunched something nonvital up under there and you should probably get that fixed? How much do you love or hate the person you borrowed the car from?

also if it's bad under there maybe they did it first :shrug:


e. do not just jack up a car and get under it. It needs to be safely on jackstands or ramps, or on a lift. but depending on ride height you might be able to just lie on the ground with a flashlight and look, or use your phone and a selfie stick or something

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

eh I think if the plastic shroud under the engine is dangling off because two of the connectors screws ripped out and it's all torn plastic and poo poo you'd see that pretty quick

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

yeah that poo poo is just like, wear and tear, or stuff for a mechanic to inspect

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

don't buy a car from an entity that doesn't own that car; tell that dealer you'll be happy to pay when they can hand you an unencumbered title on the spot, and not before. They may be able to conduct that transaction on the spot with you in person, but you want a clean title when you walk out, not one with some third party lienholder printed on it

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

paying the lienholder isn't buying the car, it's settling someone else's debt for them

it'd be like if you paid off someone's credit card; that doesn't give you the right to start using it to buy stuff

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

also any car can need an alignment after a few years or one savage pothole anyway

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

did you get that $2k estimate from a dealership, because if so, don't do that, check at an indepdendent mechanic

also please be very careful about dealing with compressed springs. They have enormous amounts of energy. There are special tools for compressing springs that you can maybe rent or get at harbor freight or w/e if you need to do that. You might not.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

there's also like loads of aftermarket "better" rear view mirrors from catalogs and poo poo yeah

ultrawides and panoramics and so on

and "universal" for any car

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

The (pinned!) AI Marketplace thread is where goons sell cars and car parts to other goons.

@Fiz, price is somewhat dependent on location as well as condition. But a running car with a clean title is worth at least $5k IMO, anything you see lower than that probably has a salvage title or is busted in some severe way.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Inner Light posted:

You got me thinking about my 2013 Audi A4 which has a TFSI engine, timing chain, and is apparently an interference engine.

Even if there’s no replacement interval in the manual, should I start thinking about replacement at a mechanic before it fails? I’m creeping up on 135k miles I think, and google says 125k mi is close to that point.

I’m also on the “lifetime” ATF, I think I will ride that until it dies rather than try replacing. For the ZF 8speed seems like it can do more harm than good. I’m a car dummy tho.

The timing chain isn't gonna snap and cause your interference engine to detonate: but over a long period they can stretch a bit, which causes the timing to stop being quite right. If the engine is running smoothly with no timing issues I think you can leave the timing chain alone.

A lot of folks are sure that flushing a transmission after a certain amount of miles will cause sediments at the bottom of the pan to mix into the transmission and gently caress it up. I'm less convinced of that, I suspect that there's a coincidental relationship between "transmission so old I did a flush" and "old transmissions are close to failure regardless" but I can't prove that.

I believe in some cars you can do a transmission drain without a flush though. A partial change shouldn't stir too much stuff? Not sure about your Audi.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

It could still be a tiny thing inside the motor, or the switch could be faulty. does your car have a function that lets you roll down the windows any other way? For example on my old golf I could insert the key int he door and turn and hold, and it'd roll down all the windows. If so, try that and see if it still does the weird thing.

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also, a cold start is slightly more difficult than a hot start, so if the battery was turning the engine over but just not quiiiite getting it started cold, and then it was able to do it hot, that doesn't necessarily mean the alternator is fine. But also driving slowly for 15 minutes will not significantly charge up the battery anyway, so even a small parasitic drain could drop it overnight back below where you want.

You can take your car to an autozone and get the battery tested for free.

You can test an alternator with a multimeter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q

This is a pretty good video, but I'll just add that if you start the car and you're not seeing the voltage jump up, before you conclude the alternator is bad, rev the engine up. The alternator doesn't actually start charging your car until it's spinning "fast enough" and that isn't always fast enough at idle. So you can go for a drive and get up to like 40mph or so, or you can put the car in neutral or park and rev the engine up. The output of the alternator should rise significantly as it goes up from idle to (gas, not deisel engines) like 1500-2000 RPMs or so. The exact speed depends on the ratios on the belt pulley, the exact alternator, probably other stuff so apologies that this is vague, just like... yeah, rev it up to a reasonable deal and if you aren't seeing the voltage climb by the time you're getting above 1k RPM, that suggests there's a problem.

The video above has some troubleshooting steps too, if you're open to doing that stuff, but it'd also be very reasonable to take it to a mechanic once you've established there's an alternator issue.

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