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TKIY posted:Buddy at work just told me he's buying a 2010 Audi Q5 off-lease.
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May 19, 2015 17:06
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:40 |
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The one time I've bumped someone, I paid out of pocket, because I knew there was no way in hell the cost would come in any way close to the affect on my insurance premium for a few years. Just told him to go and get a quote from wherever he wanted to use, he did, and I gave him some cash (in exchange for a receipt saying I'd paid for the damage in full).
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May 23, 2015 21:40
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How good do you care about it looking, and how long do you want it to last?
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May 24, 2015 01:45
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Cthulhuite posted:It doesn't have to be showy, as long as it's straight and the paint matches. And 5-10 years would be nice, although living on the Canadian east coast will make even 12 months of rust-free living difficult.
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May 24, 2015 13:31
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HotCanadianChick posted:Can anyone tell me about mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees? My parents bought a Tahoe to replace theirs and are offering to just give me and my wife their (I think 96 or 97) GC. IIRC it's a 4.0 and I know it's an automatic, is this the era of GCs with failure prone autos? What maintenance gremlins and issues should I be looking for once I get it home? SAE or metric? I assume a combination of the two in different areas, because gently caress you, that's why.
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May 25, 2015 10:03
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It will change your speedo reading so it's 3% "off" for a given speed, as the smaller diameter needs more rotations to cover the same ground, but that's really not enough to be a major issue. This is a common problem dealing with older cars, as smaller wheel sizes tend to become less supported for "good" rubber.
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Jun 4, 2015 21:43
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Safety Dance posted:Air cooled? If so, I imagine you'll want to leave the cooling fins unpainted.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:54
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Enourmo posted:Cooling fins/radiators/intercoolers don't cool by radiation (which emissivity would affect), they cool by convection. Paint color has zero effect on the ability of air to absorb heat from metal, all any color of paint will do is insulate it. It's minor, but it is there. Something to consider depending how much hotter than stock the engine is, if at all.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:04
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This may be overly simplistic, but would a 2011+ model head unit (that you imply would have bluetooth) fit?
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Jun 8, 2015 21:22
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My friend had one. It was thirsty and slow, though he didn't have any reliability problems. I didn't like it at all, I thought the 4WD setup was rubbish, and I would not recommend one to anyone.
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Jun 10, 2015 21:21
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I think what we're saying it, it isn't the greatest SUV in the world...
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Jun 10, 2015 22:06
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tuyop posted:How does someone become a better driver? Also, for all the bumps she's had so far, some debriefing and analysis may help. What did she hit? Why did she hit it? What did she miss as the situation developed that could have helped? Everyone fucks up sometimes, but knowing how and why is what stops it repeating too often.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:Even the Stig can't hit an apex if he's facebooking. 
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Jun 18, 2015 22:34
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Try getting her to dip the kerbside mirror when reverse parking, so she can see where the rear tyre is in relation to the kerb, and help her get close without scuffing. Though nothing can help if it really is just inherent lack of awareness, interest, or resignation that "I just can't do it".
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Jun 18, 2015 23:52
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Geoj posted:Does anyone know where I could obtain a M12 x 1 bolt? It is an unusually fine pitch, though, I very much doubt you'll find anything finer than 1.25 on the shelf at a general hardware/fastener place.
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Jun 19, 2015 19:12
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, Xracab with the 2.7L engine, 4WD. The exhaust is a rusty mess. From the flange just behind the Cat all the way back, rust, holes and more rust. A bag of large repair washers on hand to re-secure any parts of the heat shields that have come adrift (the holes corrode out and they punch past the nut holding them on). Exhaust assembly paste for doing the joints. Also new mounting rubbers are cheap, maybe replace them while you're at it, means you can just cut the old ones off. Mercury Ballistic posted:Lastly, can I install the new assembly with the truck on the ground, or should I use jackstands or a lift? FWIW, this is a pretty tall truck with 31" tires and I can do the oil without any ramps or anything.
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Jun 21, 2015 20:33
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EightBit posted:Gasoline is about 6.3 pounds per gallon (going to assume US units based on the .gov source). A full tank of gas in my jeep is approximately 19 gallons, so almost the weight of an average healthy woman. If you have a smaller tank, you might not notice the difference, but I can definitely feel the difference when I have two extra people.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:32
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Oh, I'm not leaving all the bits in one place. I'm not a moron.
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Jun 23, 2015 22:15
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Time was, old  type places would possibly have stuff like that on a shelf gathering dust, but I think that doesn't really happen as much now, better stock control etc.Looking online, the mats look like this:  So I think a set of good-quality aftermarket mats plus having someone make you the right embroidered patches would give you a set indistinguishable from the originals, and probably not out the way in terms of cost.
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Jun 28, 2015 20:40
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Yes, I believe they are plastic. Unfortunately, the clutch slave cylinder - which is the more common failure point on most systems - is what Geoj is talkign about, it's called a concentric design, it's inside the gearbox, and in order to change it, you have to do 95% of the work of changing the clutch. It's not necessarily true that the clutch is worn to the point of failure, but on a 16 year old car, you'd be mad not to do it "while you're in there". What sort of money have they quoted you, and have they included hydraulic components as well as a new clutch assembly? Those Fiestas are excellent little cars, though, they handle really well. Keep an eye out for rust, particularly around the rear arches, however.
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Jun 29, 2015 22:48
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£300 for a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and slave cylinder - with labour - is not that bad. If they're using generic components, their parts cost is about 20-40% of that quote, the rest is likely labour. You may get a slightly cheaper price somewhere, but if you're happy with the people you're using, I wouldn't say they're gouging you on the money. The slave should be included, as it is both the release mechanism, and carries the bearing that allows everything to spin nicely when you have the pedal depressed. I certainly wouldn't do the job and leave the old one there, even if it seems perfect. VVVV: American pricing seems weird. Sometimes your stuff is ridiculously cheap, sometimes it's  .
InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 23:23
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That's an interesting one. I've had one where the metal of the bulkhead was split, and pushing the pedal was levering it away rather than pushing the master cylinder. The trick was that the bulkhead was two layers of metal, and from the engine bay, it all looked exactly right - it was only by putting your head right in the footwell and looking up under the dash you could see the issue.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:42
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Slavvy posted:Citroen 2CV? 
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Jul 2, 2015 20:24
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I'm inclined to say that a different car on different tyres isn't a fair comparison, but if I'm understanding what you're meaning, it didn't do it before, so on that front, yes, you may want to get your alignment checked. The steering wheel not being straight doesn't necessarily indicate an alignment issue per se - if the alignment was set with it off-centre, it'll be off-centre despite everything else being perfect. If you're concerned, when you get it checked ask them to make sure the wheel is straight when straight ahead.
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Jul 9, 2015 22:03
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A slipping power steering belt or dying pump can cause exactly that "lumpy" feel, too.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:02
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I tried some spraying with smooth Hammerite, but found it came out very "light", and took a long time to dry. The paint was mixed at the advised 15% thinners ration, using the Hammerite branded thinners. Pressure at the gun was the recommended ~30psi. I may have cocked up my fluid mixture setting, making it too low. Could that cause the issue?
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Sep 12, 2015 21:57
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Bovril Delight posted:235/50/17 will fit fine on a stock 7.5" wheel right? Going from 225/55/17 and can't find the tires I want in that size.
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Sep 18, 2015 19:35
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CharlesM posted:I discovered the other day that apparently my wheels are corroding and the tire came off the bead. Is there a way to repair them or do I have to buy new ones?  levels of rusting out, I really want to see a photo, and you need new wheels.Anyway, yes, it's very common. I blame the salt on the roads in winter for making it worse here. Often initiates where someone's fitted a clip-on balance weight. The corrosion expands out and pushes the bead away so it doesn't seal any more. To properly fix it, you need the tyre off, and to use a wire wheel etc to remove it all from where the tyre seats, any tyre place should be able to sort you out (you can't really pull or refit the tyre yourself, so you may as well get them to do it). If the wheels are a bit shabby anyway, and you were considering refurbishing them, now would be the time.
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Sep 20, 2015 10:55
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Friar Zucchini posted:Depends. Are you literally too poor to afford a new set of tires, or are you just trying to save a buck on the only thing between your car and the pavement?
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Sep 22, 2015 11:57
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Fart Pipe posted:That is a triple square, homie. 12 splines is 3 squares.
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Sep 25, 2015 21:21
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Does anyone have an opinion on the best lubricant for an old-school Bendix screw mechanism on a starter motor? It's not totally jammed, but it has an annoying tendency to just sit there spinning rather than throwing out to engage unless you give it a thump.
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Sep 27, 2015 20:04
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Yes, it's a bayonet fitting. Push it a little and turn it.
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Sep 27, 2015 21:56
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Motronic posted:The bendix is not supposed to be lubed at all according to the guys at my local rebuild place. I was told that anything thin enough to do the job just ends up making a mess and getting into the starter to cause problems and anything heavy enough to stay cakes up and makes the situation worse than it was before in short order.
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Sep 28, 2015 18:04
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Agreed. I normally take the battery out and put it on a conditioner in the garage instead.
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Oct 4, 2015 19:36
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You can just turn the engine over by hand to check. Sounds like someone fitted the wrong plugs previously?
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Oct 4, 2015 20:48
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I can't help you with the right sensor, but the specific nature of the sensor sockets is they have a slot in them so the wiring can hang out the side. Now, in my experience, if replacing a dead sensor, you can do without them. You don't care about the old sensor, so the wiriing can just be cut to let you use a regular socket, and a normal spanner will let you get the new one in just fine. Sometimes they can be very uncooperative about being removed, so be prepared for that.
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Oct 4, 2015 23:11
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Think about how good you are compared to the average muppet with a licence. Now think about the term "logarithmic scale".
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Oct 7, 2015 23:00
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scuz posted:A dizzy is a distributor, right?
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Oct 8, 2015 20:03
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scuz posted:"16v dizzy hall sensor"
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Oct 8, 2015 20:13
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:40 |
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Abu Dave posted:Even in that video they're driving on plowed snow; I would be driving on unplowed snow. I would say an SUV rather than a truck, as the weight distribution and stiff rear suspension you generally find in a truck doesn't help much, and fully agricultural live-axles-on-leaf-springs-and-a-steering-box truck trucks are actually a bit of a pig to drive on slippery roads, not enough feel to them.
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Oct 9, 2015 19:19
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