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I do repeated (say 5 times) 60-10 hard braking without actually coming to a stop.
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Oct 30, 2017 15:35
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ate all the Oreos posted:Hi AI, I hope I'm in the right place for my dumb question I am not good at car
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Oct 30, 2017 16:12
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It could be your accessory belt slipping, though I'd expect there to be some noise to go along with that.
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Oct 30, 2017 17:12
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Q8ee posted:How much would it cost to vinyl wrap a Golf Mk7? Q8ee posted:And is it worth me doing something to get a throatier, more guttural exhaust sound, or does something like that cost an awful lot? I'd feel a bit silly as well seeing as I have a normal Golf and not a Golf R or something fancy, but if it's within my price range, why not. Q8ee posted:PS: I love when you find a legitimate, honest garage. Took my car in for a tyre repair as it had a puncture in it. £63 for a brand new tyre. I also told them there was an issue I was having with the car, and they ran a diagnostics and looked at it, and totally scrapped the usual charge for something like that (£45) as they said they couldn't find anything, and so felt bad to charge me for it. They're a great bunch of guys and I'll be taking my car in to them for everything I need from now on. You want to change the colour, change the exhaust, and you're still not happy with how it's driving anyway? Sell it and buy something else.
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Nov 4, 2017 01:00
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm about an hour and a half into a two hour drive away from home in my 2005 civic 5 speed. I stopped for fuel just now and when I pressed the clutch in it went to the floor with almost no resistance. It did go into neutral fine, and when I exited, it went into first and took off, but the pedal travel was infinitesimal before it bit and I launched it a little inadvertently. I was able to get up through the gears to third and back down as I pulled into this gas station. Is this a stop immediately problem or can I press on to my destination, where there will be tools? Sounds like a fluid issue, if you're in a position to check the level and look for any leaks, it's worth doing so. You could try topping it up if it's low, but if there's a leak, it'll probably just come back out again.
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Nov 4, 2017 01:22
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Q8ee posted:DIY sounds like a fun option, and I never thought about how irritating it could be to have a loud exhaust for motorway drives. Glad you made me think of raising that as a valid concern. For wrapping, buy decent material, make sure the car is totally spotless and smooth on the paint (full clean and claybar job), and take your time with plenty of lubricant (  ). Watch a load of Youtube videos for guidance, and be prepared to screw up a few times on complex sections.I'd be careful of cheap "pro" jobs, as you really don't want them playing it fast and loose with things like how they trim it - if they cut the vinyl on the car, or use something to stick down uncooperative edges, it'll look like poo poo when it's removed later. I'd never buy a wrapped car unless cheap/didn't care, and again, it'd need to be standard for handing back to VW. For the hassle over the way the car runs etc, I'd suggest registering on PistonHeads and asking there, as it's much more UK-centric, and while there are a lot of bellends, there are also people who really know their stuff legally. Wrar posted:I've never seen this adequately covered by anyone. Why shouldn't you cut out, say, half a coil of a suspension spring with an angle grinder or similar? rdb posted:Either method fucks with the spring rate, especially on a progressive spring. You see, a coil spring is actually kind of a torsion bar just packaged differently. When you compress it, you're not so much "bending" the material, you're twisting it across its cross-section between the two ends, as if you unrolled the coil and tried to twist the end with some pliers. If you cut it, you're making the torsion bar shorter, which does actually make it slightly stiffer... but no way near as stiff as it needs to me to properly handle the mass of the car with a shorter distance between normal ride height and bottoming out. You can sometimes get away with it, to a certain extent, but it's always going to be a bodge, even if it seems "ok". Plus, as people mentioned, the spring might no longer be properly captive in its seating, and a progressive spring was designed around the full original length to work as intended.
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Nov 4, 2017 13:23
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tactlessbastard posted:Thanks. I made it to my destination last night, I'll be able to verify my transmission has fluid later today. How do you check the clutch fluid? I've never heard of such a thing, and I'm way out in the boonies (repairing a fence) and internet service is extremely spotty so I can't go trawling youtubes. Both should have brake fluid in them up to between the two marks.
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Nov 4, 2017 16:43
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Godholio posted:This is for the Civic? Either is fine for daily driving, but DOT 4 handles higher temperatures. Whether you think it's worth the higher cost is up to your wallet and your driving habits to decide. IOwnCalculus posted:Keep in mind that it won't just be empty for the hell of it. You've got a leak somewhere in that system.
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Nov 4, 2017 18:29
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prom candy posted:Can/should I use my 15" winter tires/wheels from my CR-V on my new Civic Si? The winter tires are 205/70/R15 and the all-seasons from the Civic are P235/40WR18. I bought the tires just last year so it'd be nice to keep using them and not have to buy a new set but I'm guessing going down 3 inches in diameter has some downsides?
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Nov 5, 2017 18:03
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Are mufflers interchangeable / can I use a generic, or does it have to be one specifically designed for my vehicle (C5 Audi A6)? You can adapt/fabricate stuff using universal components, or adapt an exhaust from something else, but if you were in a position to do that, you probably wouldn't be asking. The middle ground is that you can get someone to fabricate one for you, but it's quite likely to cost a lot more than an off the shelf one, unless it's a particularly odd/hard to find one, or the prices are nuts.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:44
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Are the springs looking badly rusted up or anything? Are there different load/duty options for the ranger, and you've got the heavier setup? Like 4 or 5 leaf springs when it should be 3? Cheap option is, of course, to just leave a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the back.
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Nov 18, 2017 00:54
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Anyone serviced a Nissan/Jatco RE4R01A? What ATF do they like? Seems that a Dexron III is correct? About 8L for a drain and refill with pan drop and filter change?
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Jan 7, 2020 14:48
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STR posted:You won't find proper Dexron III anymore, supposedly Dexron VI works fine as a drop-in replacement. I know Valvoline makes a VI that claims backwards compatibility with II and III. Looks like the official spec is Nissan ATF, which sounds like it's Dexron II/III. IOwnCalculus posted:True, real Dex III is long gone, but I would expect the generic "Dex/Merc" bottles to be the closest modern equivalent. Just always a bit suspicious that "multivehicle application formula!" means "equally poo poo in everything", though I doubt the stuff that's in there is much cop anymore so as long as it doesn't actively gently caress things up...
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Jan 7, 2020 20:35
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To clarify, diesels have a normal get-it-from-the-tank-to-the-engine pump, plus a squirt-it-into-the-engine pump, the latter needs to be timed in the same way an ignition system does.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:41
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Moneyball posted:14 Hyundai Elantra. I don't know nearly enough about cars to describe it right. You can strip them and clean them up/rebuild them, but often replacing them is easier. However, a clunk when releasing the handbrake and setting off, particularly if the car has been parked up overnight in winter weather, is quite possibly just slight corrosion sticking the pads to the disc and them cracking free of that. It's pretty normal.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:19
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Crankit posted:Occasionally I see a classic land rover or classic range rover for sale at less than usual money and it says the engine is wrecked or has been taken out for some project or whatever. Here in the UK you can pick up a car with a 2.0 diesel fairly cheap and I sometimes think if I had a workshop I'd buy it and put in a modern-ish diesel engine. The former, while they did have factory diesels, they are slow, whereas the petrol models aren't unreasonable considering they're old utility vehicles. The coiler stuff all had factory turbo diesels of some kind, and while the earlier versions aren't great, the 200TDi introduced with the Discovery is plenty good enough to not justify the effort of converting to a non-LR engine (the 90 etc use a different turbo orientation to the Disco, but that's not insurmountable). So, if you're looking at an old 90 or something, I would just buy a rusty Disco (there's plenty of those) and use it as a donor, swap the relevant bits over. Now, assuming you mean one of the classic series vehicles, you can in effect do the same, but the differences become more of a factor. The 200TDi nominally will "just bolt up" to the series gearbox, and Glencoyne and TeriAnn Wakeman both have comprehensive guides to this: https://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di2.htm http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversionIntro.htm First problem is a relatively minor thing, it's not a period engine, and arguing the lineage from a series lump to a 200TDi is a bit sticky, so you should assume you'll lose the MOT exempt status from the vehicle (it should not affect tax exemption, but I'd want to make drat sure before stating that as a fact). Second problem is one that would be true of any other TDi swap also: the Land Rover series gearbox is a 4 speed from a 1930s Rover car, and this kind of torque is probably about the limit for one, assuming yours is in excellent condition. Narrator voice: It is not in excellent condition. The transfer case is very tough, so no issue there, but you will need to be sympathetic to the gearbox, or replace it. Perfectly doable with a 5 speed LT77 or R380, albeit with a few specific things you'd need to consider, but for the time being, let's assume you make sure your standard box is OK and you don't abuse it. So, now for your actual question, fitting a non-LR car diesel into a series. Luckily, many many people have dug themselves thus particular hole, and quite a few even managed to get back out of it! Back in the day, the Perkins Prima from a Montego (remember those?) was a common choice, but gently caress knows where you'd find one now, and people have also done all kinds of things like Transit engines and so on. There have also been a few people putting things like VAG 1.9s in, and, basically any of this stuff will work. In terms of engine conversions, a Landie is a relatively simple proposition - longitudinal powertrain, meaty parallel chassis rails to attach hardware to, plenty of room in the engine bay. But to actually do the conversion, you'd need to work out how you're going to mate the engine to the gearbox, so you'll need an adaptor plate and possibly a modified or custom flywheel. Unfortunately, the passing of time that has rendered series Landies classics has also gutted the market that used to be around for such things, so you'd have to look at trying to find one secondhand, and seeing if an engine is available to suit it (e.g. if you buy an old Transit conversion, are you then saddled with a 30 year old Tranny lump, or can a more modern Ford diesel bolt up to it?), or you're getting into making one or having one made, which by the nature of the original question I suspect you'll start bouncing off a ceiling of either machining capability or justifiable budget. So, yes, it absolutely can be done, but I think if you're doing this from a less experienced position, it could rapidly turn into a bit of a headache, and I'd say go with a more modern Land Rover diesel if you want a diesel swap. Though there is the most basic option, running a series 2-1/4 petrol, which are perfectly fine for what they are, and very tough, thanks to the lazy buggers using the same block and crank etc as the diesel for the petrol. Heavy, though, they're all cast iron and well north of 200kg. Plus we've not got into the question of gearing if you did do a swap, as the series have 4.7 diffs compared to the 3.54 in coilers, there are both simple and complicated options there, but it's not a functional necessity to make the thing work and drive. Expected MPG? The 200 guys seem to see low thirties without a problem, so I'd assume ballpark for other conversions. How well equipped do you need to be to do a swap? Well, it's an old Landie, so it can probably be done literally in a field if necessary, as long as you have "somewhere" to work, it's likely doable. You may be limited on fabrication capability, but luckily, if you did a 200TDi, somewhere like Steve Parkers will sell you the awkward custom bits like an exhaust etc: https://www.steveparkers.com/product-category/conversions/200-tdi-discovery-series/ Huh. That was longer than I intended. TL;DR: IMHO, If you're going to use a diesel swap, look at a 200TDi to simplify matters, it's likely any apparent better value in using a different engine will be gobbled up by conversion costs and hassle. Extra MPG is "nice", but I doubt it'll ever pay back the conversion cost, so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Sep 12, 2021 14:22
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DesperateDan posted:If you switch to a manual and you park facing uphill then leave it parked in forward gear (I was told third but not sure it matters), facing downhill leave it in a reverse gear- gives you a bit of peace of mind, not sure if there's an automatic transmission equivalent If you do it the other way round, the engine would rotate backwards, which 99% of the time will make no difference whatsoever, but in some instances could potentially gently caress with the tensioner for the timing belt/chain, and lead to a skipped tooth, which has the risk of an expensive mechanical failure. It's a fractional chance of it happening, but no reason to risk it.
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Sep 29, 2021 10:14
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Invalido posted:I just replaced the auxiliary belt on my very conventional shitbox car since the old one started slipping when wet and looked worn and dry. I didn't look the procedure up in the service manual because it's a ginormous pdf and I'm lazy and it looked super easy, which it was. Now I wonder if there's a better way to tension the belt correctly than to simply use my judgement and go "yeah that feels about right I guess"? Though most stuff uses multi-rib belts with a sprung tensioner now, which should just sort themselves out. What car/engine is it?
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Sep 30, 2021 07:53
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Yeah, to do it "properly" you would want to use a belt tension meter, but I'd just do twist-on-longest-run and be done with it.
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Sep 30, 2021 08:19
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Can you remove the rear seat to clean it better? Sounds like dosing the interior with an ozone generator may be necessary for you, too. My Panda was home to as least one evidently incontinent dog, and a full seats-out deep clean plus ozone generator sorted it.
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Sep 30, 2021 13:43
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shortspecialbus posted:Opinion check about these wheels on the Subaru Forester touring edition. Do they salt the roads where you live? That fucks up diamond cut alloys good and proper with corrosion. On a new car, you can usually warranty them for it, but some manufacturers (e.g. BMW here in the UK) will not accept a warranty claim if you have kerbing damage, even if the damage is unrelated. Kerbing on the rim but corrosion around the centre? Sorry, we need you to pay half the replacement wheel cost (which is high enough to make this a "nope, gently caress off" statement).
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Oct 3, 2021 14:07
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Yep, the wheels are non directional. Rotating the tyres you go front to back on the same side, anyway, but even if you didn't, it only matters if the tyre is directional.
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Oct 3, 2021 15:33
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If it's going down to 2 cylinders, with those running one coil pack per two cylinders, then I think you're on the right track with that coil pack. But if you've swapped the coil packs around and the fault didn't follow, again, you're right, not the coil pack itself. I think it is unlikely to be the ECU itself, so I'm afraid all I can suggest is tracing through every part of the loom that runs from that coil back, all the multiple connectors etc, because it sounds to me like a poor connection or damaged wire somewhere. Alternatively, bypass/supplement that coil's wiring for as much ov it's run as you can and see if it goes away. Have you removed the scuttle trim below the screen? There is an earth point in the middle under there, and if your scuttle drains are blocked, it may well be underwater. Can't remember what it's an earth for, though.
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Jul 3, 2022 12:46
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Right, ok, you're trying to replace a unitary wheel bearing that bolts in from the back, yes? And you need the driveshaft CV joint backed out a bit to get access onto the bolt heads for that? And you so far have removed the brake caliper and carrier, the large nut from the end of the driveshaft, and the driveshaft does have movement in/out of the hub splines? That's all good progress. Now STOP and evaluate where you are with it. There is not enough axial movement in the driveshaft to give you the access you need? So the suspension upright/knuckle with the bearing/hub attached has to come out more instead. Not all the way out, just flexed away more than it can right now. I'd remove the two bolts from the strut to upright joint to give the necessary movement. Why are you undoing the steering joint?
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Sep 16, 2022 23:41
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Because I can't get to the bolts behind the knuckle with the cv joint in the way However, people are quite right to point out that, even with the bolts undone, the hub bearing unit is likely well corroded in place thanks to the tight fit of the machined rear spigot of it into the bore on the upright. So while you have the upright swung out for access, you'd get behind it with a wire brush and PB Blaster etc to try and remove as much resistance as possible. Then you can bolt it back to the strut for some stability and try to remove the bearing unit. It may not want to come out (as you're not reusing it, hitting it good and hard from alternating directions, particularly using a drift to target the main body of the housing specifically, is perfectly viable), but if you really, really can't get it to shift because of how well it's corroded in, you've already resigned yourself to removing the upright entirely, so it is worth trying with it on the car first. The point above about how things work in reality compared to the fantasy world of shop manuals and sunny climate YouTube mechanics is bang on. I'm afraid that this poo poo is a mechanical war of attrition, which is why if you look in the garage of a lot of those advising you, you'll find duplicate tools upon tools that allow a lot of stepping up to the next technique to try after the last
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Sep 17, 2022 15:18
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Also, we have all hosed up this stuff and more, often repeatedly.
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Sep 17, 2022 23:24
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Are you able to arrange the work with the various places, and just need the car transported there, or do you need someone to project manage everything?
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Sep 19, 2022 11:29
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 02:37 |
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You could use rivnuts and an appropriately threaded fastener rather than a self tapper.
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Dec 7, 2022 09:15
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