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Yeah I definitely overtighten and also check them after a while, never had a wheel come off. Happened to my dad in the 70s though, got passed by his own tire.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2024 12:35 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 18:35 |
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VelociBacon posted:Greasing the bolts would wildly change the appropriate torque spec wouldn't it? I don't use a torque wrench and even if I got one I doubt I would use it on lug nuts, I'm used to go by feel there and will likely continue that practice. I'm interested in torque wrench for other stuff where I don't have a feel developed for how hard I ought to tighten. My future also likely holds other projects where it becomes even more important.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2024 16:36 |
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I placed an order last night for spare parts but decided not to get the torque wrench I just can't decide if it's a bad or good choice to buy a cheap one but also I can't afford a new one. Like I think 20€ is worth fussing about. e: Also I've seen the workers in shops change other peoples tires when picking up my own cars over the years, they tighten with an impact only. So having it done professionally at the places I've been to, don't involve no torque wrenches. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Mar 26, 2024 |
# ¿ Mar 26, 2024 11:32 |
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Safety Dance posted:That was my reaction, more or less. I dunno what kind of car this is, but I just watched a youtube about a car catching fire and the reason was that the insulation had degraded in the wiring harness, because for those particular years (84-86) of that particular car the manufacturer experimented with a different type of wire insulation that was biodegradable. It was just falling apart by then. So based on that I would be a bit worried if the rest of the wiring looked like this.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 07:20 |
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Mercedes also did this in 92-96 I heard.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 10:57 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:mk IV Volkswagens where fluid would siphon in to the tail lights eventually Ah I guess it was blinker fluid
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 11:33 |
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Great I had this same question as I'm working over the brake calipers on my 900 Post electrolysis:
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2024 11:53 |
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Sorta car related, because it's the cars fault. But I have a pair of cheap coveralls I use when working with my cars and in the shop and they've gotten really dirty and greasy. I guess they should be washed fairly regularly but what should I do now that they've gotten this disgusting. I don't want to put them in our washer like this. I was thinking of soaking them in a detergent solution in a tub outdoors a few times before tossing them into the washing machine to get the worst off them, not sure what I ought to use. Washing soda, lye, soap, regular detergent for clothes?
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 09:41 |
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You know this made me realize I've never been to a laundromat in my life.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 15:26 |
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Well I changed the tires on my Yaris to summer tires last night, I also transported some other tires and I can get six tires in the trunk with seats folded down. Anyway I used the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec, or a little above (76 ft lbs, I set the wrench to 110nm which is a bit more). Feels eerily light torque compared to what I am used to put on them...
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2024 05:28 |
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Leperflesh posted:I think new cars sold today have like 30 computers in them and in 20 years none of those specific computer boards will still be made and they'll be un-maintainable within 30 once old stock of those parts runs out. Modern cars are vastly, vastly safer though so if you care about not dying, please just drive a reasonably modern vehicle. I say that as a Car Liker and AI alum: playing around with old cars that you can rebuild forever is a cool and good hobby, but if you are going to get smashed by one of today's enormously overweight road queens, you want to do it inside a car with 8 airbags. I would rather institute harsh legislation to force all these road queens into the trash compactor. I think 30 years for a modern car made after 2015 or so is probably very generous.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2024 07:24 |
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Reminds me it's time to do an oil change, or maybe three. Also looks like I need a new battery. I was gonna drive to work today in my Saab and it made a millenium falcon like sound as I tried to start. Battery has run down totally more than once over winter storage and it's real bad for batteries to get run down like that.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 07:20 |
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Jonny 290 posted:Here's my old man trick if you have issues with dying batteries in vehicles you rarely drive. google '10 watt car solar panel' and as long as your cigarette lighter socket is always hot (like a phone charger works with the car off, meaning its directly wired to the battery) these will keep your battery in tip top shape. Even with winter and clouds. I wonder if that would work indoors with just the light from the lamps. I daily this car in summer and in winter it sits in a heated garage, so not much sunlight, which is exacerbated by the fact that in deep winter the sun rises at 10AM and sets at 2PM.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 08:14 |
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I actually cobbled together my own from a regular battery charger and a smart power controller, so it could charge the battery an hour every week (or some other timer). Unfortunately I disconnected the charger and used it for electrolysis stuff and then didn't put it back.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2024 16:10 |
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Car veers slightly left, this is how I have to hold the wheel going straight ahead. Now I've done a lot of work on the right side front wheel, the whole hub was off, I replaced the lower ball joint and renovated the brake calipers (that on both wheels). Can the swapping of the lower ball joint cause this? I figure if so it must have affected the camber of the right wheel a little. I didn't touch the toe adjustement nor changed any joints there. Tire pressure what pretty close too (2.7 bars or so, about 39 psi).
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2024 08:07 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Seconding; even after disconnecting & reconnecting a ball joint or other suspension, it is possible to need an alignment. I've been looking into how to do it myself and it seems pretty doable at home.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 04:28 |
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Perhaps the first time, but it's not a viable long term solution to go a shop every time I deal with the front suspension components on this car because that's gonna happen again soon by the look of some drive shaft gaiters. I feel I should be able to perhaps machine something more solid to measure between the wheels than string. I got this car with the intention of doing all the work on it myself, at one point the engine will come out for an overhaul and I plan to rebuild the gearbox then too. I might get a spare engine and gearbox first though to look over and get used to it.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 04:53 |
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A wheel alignment ain't it... e: We'll see if I dunning-krugered myself later. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Apr 18, 2024 |
# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 11:52 |
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That's good, I'm only 10 years in on the pathological self reliance nerding so far.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2024 14:03 |
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Welding rust is one of the most difficult parts of welding. A good welder with gas is minimum IMO. I weld straight CO2 these days but it's more difficult.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2024 07:48 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:Funnily enough I just started watching this video: Looks interesting I have that laser myself and been thinking in similar ways. Also looked at how to do it with string and thought about various DIY tools I could make using an aluminium extrusion with a screw to make a kind of gauge that measure the inside of the wheels. I just need a really huge micrometer The service manual for my car details how to measure toe in, it uses a special tool (like what I thought of) and how to use chalk markings to measure on an uneven floor: The manual has no procedure for the rear wheels, perhaps because it's a solid rear axle. At any rate it's probably good enough to try and see what results one gets. I haven't had need to think of this right now because I've had issues with a stuck bleeder valve, that then broke off. Just got it fixed last night and something happened with the handbrake and it no longer engages. It might have broken. e: sleep addled His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Apr 23, 2024 |
# ¿ Apr 23, 2024 04:58 |
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I'll say try raw linseed oil (not boiled). Film products won't work as mentioned. It won't hide the rust, but it'll slow the attack down as it's got good penetrating properties and will get down to bare metal despite rust on top. I spray that into cavities and just generally the whole underside of my cars every year.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 04:21 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Spend the money, and suffer through it once. No powered windows, no problems
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 08:51 |
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No you should buy the Honda stuff especially then and not foist hidden crap on to the next owner.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 20:34 |
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Well I finally stopped getting sidetracked with my car, everything I touched on my way to doing this turned into a day or week long project. So I have finally adjusted the camber, which was my prime suspect. Saab had a neat table to show how much adjustment is needed (via adding or removing shims) and following that I removed 4mm of shims and the car now drives straight like it used to. I haven't checked the toe-in yet though. That's next. Might as well verify caster too.
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# ¿ May 5, 2024 13:15 |
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Just a hunch but see if some WD-40 don't help... That stuff was the only thing which helped against butyl sealant.... It's also an extremely efficient hand cleaner.
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 08:40 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 18:35 |
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Oh yeah it will, probably wipe down afterwards with IPA or acetone if you want it clean.
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 14:06 |