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I've got a 1995 Ford f-150 with the 4.9 I6. Great truck, can't believe how reliable it is for 1500 dollars. Anyway, the alternator finally went out, and I ran into unexpected problems changing it. Seems the alternator bracket (see screen shot) is aluminum while the bolt going through the bracket and alternator is steel. The two had chemically bonded together and to make a long story short, the whole thing ended up cut out with an angle grinder. Now I'm looking to buy a replacement alternator bracket. At one point I saw an OEM bracket for 200 bucks which is absolutely nuts, but the aftermarket brackets the websites assure me will fit don't look anything like it - they look like pieces of flat metal with slots of them, not the C shape of the bracket. Maybe because the aftermarket bracket assumes you're not mounting the smog pump? Here's a picture of the bracket, can any help me find a replacement for it. Christ, I can't even find the over priced oem replacement I saw earlier. Would something like this work assuming I didn't mind getting rid of the smog pump? 
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May 27, 2015 03:08
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Raluek posted:This. Finding stock replacement accessory stuff aftermarket is always a crapshoot, since there are so many variants year-to-year. I'd just go to the yard with a mental image of what you're looking for, and root around in the Fords until you find it. I called around and no one said they had it, though that doesn't mean it's not there. I see other posts from other people having problems with these bolts seizing, so even if I find one in the junkyard I may end up with the same issue. Still, I'll check it out. I think if I can't find one at the junk yard modifying that aftermarket piece will be easier than starting from scratch.
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May 27, 2015 10:53
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So my truck, 95 ford f150 with the 4.9 straight six, shows what I'd say to be 10 volts on the dash, but when I checked the terminal posts with a multimeter it showed 13 and some change while the truck was running. I called my friend to make sure I was doing it right (DC 20 selected, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal, ect). So maybe I just suck at reading the dash gauge? The gauge is this one here and the needle is right on the "n" of normal. Surely that's not 13ish? I love my gauges, don't tell me they're poo poo  
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Jul 8, 2015 01:12
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Slavvy posted:Yeah, those gauges are mostly meaningless on the majority of cars and only serve to make people feel better/add perceived features and value. I'd been told that about the oil pressure gauge right here in this forum; I think the story was something like they previously had so much trouble with low oil pressure readings that ford made even the most minimal of reading hit the "it's fine!!" spot on the gauge. I didn't want to think that inexactitude also applied to my other gauges. I get a stupid thrill out of looking at them. Oh well, they DO seem consistent so I'll content myself with that. I still like that they're green, reminds me of an old jet hud (aping cold war military sophistication may be intentional. Alternately, only so many colors it could be).
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Jul 8, 2015 02:12
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92 Camry 4 cylinder, rack and pinion confirmed bad at the shop, steering is very heavy and uneven. Do I risk anything worse than sore arms by driving it for a while before fixing it?
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Jul 10, 2015 20:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Depends on how you mean "bad" - if it's just the power assist, not too much risk but not the safest thing on earth. If it's the steering gear itself, don't drive it. It turns well enough but when I say the steering is uneven the resistance changes as you turn the wheel. Would that uneveness point to the gear?
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Jul 10, 2015 20:49
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Thanks guys, I'm phone posting at work and just reporting what my girlfriend said second hand regarding the shop diagnosis. I drove it myself yesterday so if the description of the feeling is bad that's on me. Once I'm home I'll come back with more info, but this is a fairly 'new' part a shade tree friend fixed for her some months ago, if my memory of that fiasco of repeat repairs is correct. So yeah I'm suspicious but I'll have to wait before I can report back with better info.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:09
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So my moms 2006 PT Cruiser  started running poorly and losing power last night. I didn't actually see the symptoms because the answer to "when have you changed the spark plugs in this 120,000 mile motor" was "never" so I just started there. I changed the plugs and wires and now it runs "great" (she says great, I rode in it around the block and it does seem to run fine, but with the hood up the accessory belt seemed to squeak some; but anyway here's my question:Is this much oil on this plug a sign of something serious:  Oil all the way down/up the threads. It's only on the one plug, from cylinder 1. From the Valves? From the Piston Ring?  Also the wear wasn't even. While THAT plug was oily another one was ground down to nothing, another seemed old and worn out but kind of okish, I dunno. Car seems to run fine now, but feel free to give me things to worry about.
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Jan 11, 2016 02:58
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rdb posted:If you need things to worry about, find out if the timing belt and water pump have been changed. If not, it's on borrowed time. Already broke and and fixed! Ok, I can't imagine I'll still be working on this car in another 100k so cool, thanks.
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Jan 11, 2016 16:14
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2006 GMC Sonoma, 150kish miles, 4.3 Doesn’t Start A week ago my dad’s truck died while running and now wont start. He was less than 5 minutes down the road, at idle. He was either still at idle or had just begun to pull away from the stop and the truck died. Here’s 3 videos of us (me, my dad, and my automotive friend Mr. T in the red sweat shirt) trying to start it with starting fluid and gas: 1st video, sprayed some starter fluid before starting, almost catches. 2nd try, with gas 3rd try, more fluid Here’s what we know
The real mechanic (who be the one I pay to fix this if we can’t figure it out) said next we should run a compression test. I personally (though I’m the least mechanic of the four people involved) don’t see how a blown head gasket keeps it from starting at all. This engine should have a timing chain and what everyone’s saying/I’ve heard is that if the chain had a problem it likely would have jumped a tooth wich would lead to it running like poo poo, not this total inability to start. Mass Air Flow sensor? I thought about buying a can of cleaner and trying that but Mr. T says it “almost never works”. I pretty much learned everything from him so I’d never actually even heard of MAF until I chanced upon a youtube video of it, such is Mr. T’s disdain for the technique apparently. Apparently if we can’t fix it the comedy-though-entirely-for-real option is throw an LS in it, Mr. T bought one for a Jeep project that ended up with a poo poo body and frame.
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Jan 16, 2016 22:37
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by cutting through the bed and sealing the hole back up with what is now old, curling duct tape.
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Christobevii3 posted:4.3 guy check if you have a loving spark. WTF with pouring gas into the engine and not expecting it to flood out. Have you ever changed the distributor? Seriously check the spark or you have some crazy vats lock out. I almost grantee it is the distributor if you haven't changed it before. All your sensors don't matter from a cold start really on a 4.3L it just dumps fuel, air, and needs a spark. MAF matters more after it ran a minute and goes out of cold start mode. Thanks for the advice, and yeah spankmeister it was just the one plug we checked. I watched the video and though we're already changing the plugs and plug wires (which were possibly original) I also went and bought these to check on things after that's done: 
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Jan 18, 2016 00:24
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Ok, so we're still trying to figure out what's wrong with the 2001 (I had the user wrong before) Sonoma with the 4.3 v6. All the plugs and wires have been replaced, and I used that inline tester I bought to verify spark on every single new plug + wire. However, when I try to use the circuit tester on the coil it's not showing activity/power. Am I doing it wrong? Here's a picture of how I was trying to test it:  I believe that's the same grounding spot that was used in the video; is the circuit testing not showing any light/activity because I'm an idiot or is there some problem here? Edit: Also screw that engine in that truck, one of the spark plugs is dead behind the steering column. Should have gotten the four cylinder, Tim Allensque power lusting be damned. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 05:18
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some texas redneck posted:You've confirmed spark, so it's safe to assume the coil is getting power. woops. Thought I bought the more expensive one for just that reason but may be. So if I've got more than enough fuel pressure and all the spark plugs work...it's jumped time.
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Jan 19, 2016 13:33
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Yes, I rented a compression tester. I wasn't there for the test but my dad said he followed the instructions, removed all the (old) spark plugs and then used the tester cylinder by cylinder: Compression Test:
Ok, so I googled as I was posting this and apparently a difference of more than 10% is a problem? My dad was testing it by himself and he said there was a release on the gauge so I don't think it matters that he had to crank it then get out and go check the readings? He also believes he cranked it more times than the instructions said for the high reading, dunno if that matters or if he's just looking for reasons for the reading. I'd welcome any more input but I was wondering, could a security system be the problem here? The battery's been disconnected since the problem started but from googling what if the wire in the ignition cylinder is broken?
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Jan 19, 2016 14:57
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Could their maybe be failure between where I checked fuel pressure and the cylinders? Like isn't the pressure checked on the rail but then it goes to injectors? No? Do they even all fail at once?
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Jan 19, 2016 17:50
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Just based off the anticipation of direct injection in the mustang thread I think that design is a new hotness not seen on this truck; at this point I'm not really sure what to check. I did find out that when my dad checked the fuses he only checked the ones in the engine bay so I asked him to check ones under the dash. Edit: Google says it has a spider injector. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 19:44
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Thanks for all your help guys, I'm reading that CPI page now. Regarding security, I asked my dad about that this morning and he did say his security light was on his dash, but he'd also left his battery disconnected (I'm not sure for how long) after having this problem. From googling resetting the BCM should I: Disconnect the two battery terminals and touch the two (disconnected!) terminals together for ~30 seconds? Seems this makes sure you drain the batteries inside the computer. Or is that something stupid from a random forum I should just ignore and try: Disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for a period of time. If so, how long? Some forums said 15 minutes, some people just left it unplugged for hours or whatever because who cares. I'm not sure if the key has a chip, 01 feels early like that for me but what do I know. If I can get a verdict on what to do resetting the BCM before my lunch break is over I'll call my dad and see if he can do it now, otherwise I'll try it after work. Edit: Here's what I saw in a youtube video for reprogramming/resetting a GM BCM, in the video they had swapped the ECU and the truck didn't start, security light (truck with a pad lock) was on:
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 20:34
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Awesome, thanks again. I left a message with my dad explaining the reset process and hopefully (after his nap  ) he'll try the reset. The CPI (or perhaps more accurately CSFI with this model) is interesting and I'll explore that more if I have to.
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Jan 19, 2016 21:09
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Got a text from my mom saying "it started  ". You guys rock. I'll get specifics later to see if it was the battery disconnect or the bcm reset procedure.
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jan 19, 2016 |
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Jan 19, 2016 22:14
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Ok, I'm not trying to spam this thread but I wanted to post one last follow up now that I've found out what happened, I know people hate reading through these threads later and not knowing what actually fixed the issue. 2001 GMC Sonoma, 150k miles, 4.3 v6, Doesn't Start So we made a fundamental troubleshooting mistake and god only knows how far it could have gone. It seems that after all the plugs and plug wires were changed we did the inline ignition test but never actually tried starting the truck! No, I don't know how we made such a dumb mistake. My dad went out there to try the CBM reset steps and noticed the engine 'sounded like it wanted to start' and cranked it right up. Cranked up twice more, everything seems fine. The plugs, plug wires and coil wire are the only new parts we put on so our best guess is that the coil wire had burnt out.
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Jan 20, 2016 05:41
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I'm sorry to be back here again but... 1998 Ford f-250, 5.4 v8, doesn't start A friend and I tried to help a buddy figure out why his work truck wont start (he's a small business owner, it's not a company vehicle or anything). We couldn't get it started today and having had no luck we both promised to research online and come back tomorrow. Since I just had some practice diagnosing problems like this here's what we know:
So there's something wrong with the fuel but we're not sure what. My number one issue is that we haven't used a fuel pressure gauge yet - we brought one and found it needed an adapter; we went to autozone and borrowed one and it still doesn't fit, it's just a bit too big, so close you'll think you've got it almost screwing on just before it slips. This adapter fits fine on an 1997 f150 with a 4.6 that was also on site and the threads seem ok so I dunno. My number one issue is we don't really know the fuel pressure is O.K. The fuel comes out the schrader valve (with seemingly the same ford as in the f-150) but that's not really enough to make me happy. A couple of the coils aren't tightened down (the mounting bolts are broken) but I'm told that's not an issue because they ground through the plug or something; It starts with the carb cleaner so I guess that's not the issue. Could it be bad gas? Or junk in the tank that got in after the gas level got low? The truck was run a couple times after fill up before it showed this issue but my friend pointed out that if this is the first time the truck was started cold that may have been the bridge too far for bad gas. If so we can get some gas out if we have a working fuel pressure gauge So is this you tube video showing how I'd check the regular (and what the fuel pressure means regarding the pump and filter) accurate for this truck? Fake Edit: changing the fuel filter is fine and all but tomorrow there needs to be a working fuel pressure gauge attached to that valve, my friend agrees so I believe that'll happen, we may go buy a new one.
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Jan 24, 2016 00:01
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rdb posted:Can you hear the fuel pump run when the ignition is switched on? Sometimes banging on the tank frees them up enough for the vehicle to start. I do believe we heard the pump but now that I'm several hours removed from the testing and getting sleepy I wont swear to anything - I'll try banging on the tank tomorrow, thanks for the tip. I'd hard of wailing on starters, I'm starting to wonder how many different ways I can hit a car to make it start 
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Jan 24, 2016 00:27
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I'll be buying a car in the next week or two and I'm trying get more info on my choices (this is more a car questions than asking for a recommendation). So I'll be spending ~4k and I'm looking for an import econbox with an automatic transmission A few days of looking at CL ads in my area tell me I'm looking at 2005 era cars with about 100,000 miles on them, give or take. I'm mostly looking at the Toyota Corolla, out of what I'd call the big 3 econoboxes (Mazda 3, Civic, Corolla) the Toyota's have aged the best to me (I've heard others here say the same, god bless bland styling), and if my goal is to buy an appliance of a small car why not go with the gold standard. I had a few questions about it, and on buying a high mileage car in general.
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Sep 18, 2016 03:48
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SouthsideSaint posted:Please dont. Those things of that year have the headbolt issue. Somehow corollas with there smaller motor dont. Its an expensive repair many are plagued with. Even rav4s come with the problem. Corollas have a smaller engine that doesnt have the problem. Scions have no benefit to them over a toyota. So unless they can show on paper that the headbolts were fixed ALWAYS pass on that gen of scion. I read they burn oil but this... Googled scion tc head bolts, first two pages is almost nothing but stripped issues. But maybe that's self reporting bias,so I try the same search with Ford mustang and Honda civic, nothing but torque specs and should they be reused. Whelp. Thanks!
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Sep 20, 2016 22:21
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Booley posted:Changing tires Let's take a moment to rep our old buddies Click and Clack http://www.cartalk.com/content/change-flat-car-talk Torque isn't that specific on tires, I saw the above link years ago and if I remember right they stay 'just stand on the breaker bar if you're lil'. But here's two points you'll regret not remembering: Break the nuts loose before the tire is off the ground. Tighten the bolts in an alternating pattern, a little at a time, so they press the wheel flatly onto the hub. If you just tighten one all the way down, then another, then another, you end up with a crooked wheel that isn't actually tight.
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Sep 22, 2016 02:52
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Are eight gen (2008) Honda Civic 5-speed automatic transmissions bad? Or is that relegated to the days of yore in the Civic? Honda's Widespread Transmission Failure shows the kind of "collective memory" people will have about Honda automatics (not to mention the 90's) but it looks like that was the previous model year. Did Honda learn from their mistakes and use a better transmission in the Civic starting in 2005?
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Sep 27, 2016 01:40
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1995 Ford f150, 4.9L I6, 5 speed manual, 250+ miles. I think the truck has a transmission/clutch problem, but I'm not sure. The videos I got turned out to be crap audio wise so I'll make and post a better video later. I hate when people give too much background in a problem when I'm helping them with their PC but since I'm not sure what's really wrong I'm going to include just a bit of history. The truck has dual fuel tanks, and when I bought it one of the tanks didn't work (switching to that tank via the dash switch just made the engine die). Previously, the truck had some problems starting - the starter would turn over the engine but the engine wouldn't really start, like a fuel problem. When the issue occurred the problem seemed to be to just try it some more until it worked. So, I took it took a reputable repair shop, told them to pull the bed, check both tanks and pumps, the works. It turns out the truck apparently was close to killing me? I wish I still had the picture - the shop insisted I come down and look at the vehicle with the bed pulled. Essentially one of the pumps' wires was caught under the strap for the tank, and I believe badly damaged, and could have caused a spark that would blow me up? Anyway, they fixed that, and they replaced the other tank, which had a burned out pump, and a terrible rusty tank. All in all I believe they replaced both pumps, and one of the tanks, and I've never again had any trouble starting the truck. About a week or two after that repair (which may be entirely unrelated, sorry), I started to notice problems with the truck that seem to be classic clutch problems: while driving I can give the truck gas and the engine RPM will increase, but the truck doesn't accelerate anywhere near as much as I'd expect. But even more noticeable, the truck would start shaking/almost stalling; this would mostly happen right after changing gears, and more so on the lower gears ie: I'd have to feather the clutch and be content to sort of crawl along at ~10mph when leaving first, for a few seconds, until the shaking/stalling died down. It seemed to get better the more the truck warmed up? So, I know a guy who makes a living as a mechanic, I generally think of him as competent and trustworthy (the only reason he didn't do the fuel pump work is because I had trouble getting a hold of him). He tells me to buy a clutch kit, flywheel, rear main seal, and slave cylinder. I buy all that, he puts it all in. I get the truck back and there is, as far as I can tell, zero change in how the truck acts. That brings us to today, a couple months after the clutch repair. The truck still shakes/shudders, it still seems to get a bit better once the truck's warm/gone some miles, and the truck's lack of power when you put the gas pedal down has only gotten worse. My speedometer is broken but I'd guess the truck has trouble clearing 40mph in 4th, previously I could get it up to like 65 on the on-ramp before I really felt like I should shift. I just moved into a house with a two car garage, I bought this truck with the original intent of working on it myself, so let's do it. In Summary: truck shakes/shudders, it seems to get a bit better once the truck's warm/gone some miles, and RPM's don't bring power like they used to. I've had replaced/inspected: fuel pumps, clutch kit, flywheel, slave cylinder. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Apr 14, 2017 |
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Apr 14, 2017 13:58
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I'll check that and the compression tonight and report back.
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Apr 14, 2017 22:59
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Truck stuttering/stalling and low power update So it may be fixed? I didn't mention this before but a couple days ago I googled the issue, read that my egr valve could be letting in too much exhaust gas and leaning out the engine, so I plugged it up. That didn't really seem to fix it at the time but at the end of that session I unplugged the negative battery terminal for a few minutes (and didn't drive it again). So tonight I start the truck up, switch to the other tank, and take it around the block without issue. No stuttering or stalling, and the power seems as good as it ever has (for this truck). But then I switch it back to the first tank (thinking to reproduce the issue on video) annnnnd nothing; truck seems fine. So yeah, maybe it was just the EGR valve? It wont break my heart if the issue returns, if it does I'll let you know. Now, I was going to do the compression check just because I'd already rented the tool and have never done one, but now I have another stupid question: The online instructions I'm using mention :"On vehicles with distributors: Pull the big wire that leads to the coil from the center of the distributor cap, and lean the metal connector against an unpainted metal surface as far away from the spark plugs as possible." And I don't see what that big wire is on my distributor. I figure this is so the plug wires don't just randomly spark all over the drat engine bay while I'm turning the engine over. Here's pictures of my distributor cap (is the issue that I'm looking at the cap and not...another part?):  
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Apr 15, 2017 03:46
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Crap, and I even thought that's what it would be, touched them all to count them, and arrived at the number six. Anyway, thanks, I'll carry on then. Edit: Killed my battery before I'd finished checking the third plug. I really have to turn the engine over 36 (6x6) times for a compression test? I turned it over some before hand trying to figure which/how many fuses were needed to kill the gas, but I still don't think I'd make it through 36 turns. Then again, just now the very first car I looked up on you tube goes "turnturnturnturnturn" whereas my truck, even at the start, was going " t u r n ... t u r n ... ". The battery is 2 or 3 years old and I don't live in a cold climate. Eh, I'll jump it off tomorrow, diagnose why the battery was weak and died, and then do the test again. For what it's worth it showed 125 psi on #1, 100 psi on #2, so it's already shown that my engine is worn out (no poo poo). I didn't pour a teaspoon of oil into the worn cylinder to see if was a piston ring. Anyway, thanks for the help all, I'm still fairly happy with how it turned out, a bum battery is no big deal, but that's all for tonight. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Apr 15, 2017 |
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Apr 15, 2017 03:56
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How do I get this hood release cable through the firewall of my 1995 ford F-150? The wider piece at the tip seems to almost fit, but not quite. I don't see that it comes apart on either end. The previous cable had been cut off on the tip so it just pulled out.
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Jul 22, 2017 23:41
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I can get the loop through, the part that catches is that plastic .... double flange? If the answer is just to pull it through I can through what was plan 1 before I got scared, push the loop through and pull the rest through with needle nose pliers. Also! In newer and perhaps more pressing news, I took the truck around the block to charge the battery (I never, ever drive it and had to put in a new battery). Well, of course, since I'm working on replacing this hood cable...the latching mechanism wasn't on the hood. No big deal, I thought, I'll just go slow enough that the hood doesn't fly up. But the hood did fly up. And wouldn't come back down - I bent the hood trying. I ended up going in reverse back around the block and put it back in the garage. I think I need to take the hood off and either bend it back correctly or get another from the junk yard. I'll get some more pictures later and maybe someone can tell me how to get the hood to come down, it seems like it hyper extended and latched into some safety locks I can see around the springs, but it seems like it's under a lot of tension so I couldn't coax it back down.
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Jul 23, 2017 00:29
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Deteriorata posted:Skidding gets you the fastest braking, but when you're skidding you don't have any control over where the car goes. So for maximum effective braking, you want to stay just under the limit of where the tires break loose. Not a direct response the earlier breaking question but on the subject of anti-lock breaks; they are amazing but also fall into the same category as seat belts where some people will say they don't need them because "it just gets in the way of my pure driving skill". At least now they're so common most people don't really think about them anymore (although you can see the same ABS debate in motorcycles today, a repeat of the debate from 20-30 years ago in cars). I'd guess most younger people today have never panick stopped a car that didn't have ABS. Be glad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGkKDaYd3Mo
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Jul 24, 2017 14:07
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Most bike are still non abs and threshold braking is what they recommend. How many people can really do it, eeeh. It takes some serious practice, if I'm honest I'd probably err more on the side of not locking up the brakes than using every bit of brake. But that's more of a bike thing.
Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 16:48
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joat mon posted:Any luck on the hood? I can send some pics of what it's supposed to look like if it'll help... Thanks for asking, I gave it some experimental taps with a dead blow hammer but the joint didn't move, I didn't wail on it since I was just guessing at the issue. I'll post some pictures when I get home, I planned on working on it some more Sunday but life. But if it makes any sense, there are some stops on the hinge that I noticed years ago, that never actually touch the hinge if you open the hood - well now the hinge is right up on the stops and won't go back down. Grabbing the front of the hood and pulling hard just bent the hood a bit, right where the hinge bolts on. There may be a latch or lock that I need to release. Or I may just need to hit the hinge harder, but that is the halfassery that earned me a bent hood. Edit: https://www.f150forum.com/f91/hood-stuck-open-any-suggestions-223155/ suggests it's just stuck, though helpfully it says try lateral motion as well. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 19:34
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So here's my stuck hood hinges. I did try hitting the hinge much harder with the dead blow but 1) it still wasn't really that hard, I'd need probably a heavy wooden stake and a real sledge hammer 2) I reeeaaally want to make sure that there's not a "trick" instead.  And it seems I was full of poo poo about never using the stops before, here's a rando internet truck with a happy hood:  So, I think the hinge is hyper extended, in particular, in the second picture, I think the bottom hinge has gone past the top hinge? Here's the choices as I see them: 1) Figure out some smart way to unstick the hinge, like figure out exactly where to bump it/hit it (not a reliable plan) 2)hit the hing really really hard. Not a great plan and I have a bad habit of breaking things I'm working on when I get frustrated, so let's not decide "the same but more" is the solution. 3) unbolt the hinge from the hood. Now, if I do choice 3, wont the bolts strip once they're almost out? Might the hing even close up so fast, or the bolts come out so fast, that it hurts my hand? As far as the actual weight of the hood itself, myself and my roommate, two grown men, would hold the hood up (and well away from our teeth  ) while a third person loosens the bolts.
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Jul 25, 2017 01:45
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PainterofCrap posted:You need to get that bent stop back forward ahead of the upper strut. I would NOT remove the hinge to do this. Yeah, I have straps and will try that, sounds like just what I wanted, thanks all. I thiiink my friends are all watching the new Spider-Man movie tonight but I'll try it soon and post then.
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Jul 25, 2017 13:36
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My girlfriends 05 ford Taurus lost all power to wheels while driving. I wasn't in the call when it happened and this is all second hand. I changed the oil a couple days ago. The engine apparently sounded fine, and would run, stop, and start, and would increase in RPMs when given gas, but the car would not go in drive or 2 (she didn't try reverse). I drove the car not a week ago and the transmission shifted fine - no noise, no problem hunting for gears. Could something really bad have failed on the transmission with no prior warning? Oh, also, the check engine light has been one the whole time she's had it and it seems no one, myself included, bothered to look into that. Edit - gently caress, the splines on the torque converter went, didn't they? http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/171569-2004-taurus-failed-transmission.html Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 00:45
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70k ish miles I believe, and the shifter would move but no power.
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Aug 3, 2017 01:13
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 12:13 |
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That happened in a car the very first time I changed oil, in high school, and I don't THINK I"ll ever do that again. I did not remove the plug from the pan that said " transmission" in big letters, plus I've owned the same generation taurus myself for years. I mean, I'm not giving you poo poo, you can bet that crossed my mind, but we'll see what the mechanic says tomorrow. Ironically my girlfriend will be borrowing my ford taurus for at least a while. I checked the transmission fluid level, it's fine. Edit-Oh wait! I know I didn't drain the wrong fluid because I first filled it up without putting the oil plug back in and it poured all over my driveway. Yes, you see, I know I didn't make this mistake because I made that mistake. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 04:49
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