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Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


The previous owner of my car used one of those stupid ribbed covers on he leather steering wheel, which left a bunch of nasty ridges on it. Do I have any chance of getting them out? I was thinking about applying heat with a hairdryer and trying to massage it back to its original shape.

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Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/Rain-X-1-gal-bug-remover-washer-fluid/_/N-25ro?id=332603

Is this stuff really going to gently caress up the washer fluid sensor on my Volvo S60? There are several reviews on Amazon complaining about it. My car's manu says to use 'Volvo washer fluid or equivilant' but no indication is given for what specific fluid I should actually use.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


two_beer_bishes posted:

Apparently the rainx stuff fucks up VW sensors too but didn't realize that until month after I put the stuff in. Oddly enough I haven't had any problems. I would play it safe and just buy the regular non-rainx stuff. My car is fine but I won't buy it again.

Thanks, so what do you put in your reaervoir now? The few stores that I've been to only stock rain-x.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


We recently replaced the front drivers side tire on our Volvo (the store only had one in stock and we don't have a spare). The car started pulling to the left, so I had the new tire rotated to the back.

Now it pulls hard to the right (I have to keep the steering wheel ~10 degrees to the left to keep the car straight at highway speeds). Is this probably something caused by having an old and new tire on the same axle?

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jun 19, 2015

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


VelociBacon posted:

Which volvo? AWD?

If there is significant wear difference on the same axle you're damaging your differential by driving it like that. Did you need to replace the tire initially because you hit something like a curb or child?

Nope, just a FWD S60. I had a nail in the sidewall that couldn't be repaired.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


StormDrain posted:

Get a matching tire to put on the other side, or three if it's awd. That bigger tire is rotating slower than the others and loving with the traction control and adding wear to your differential or transaxle. I'm probably only 80% on the effects but 100% on the solution.

My theory is traction control is braking the other three wheels and pulling you right. When it was on the front it was doing the same but you were applying power on the new tire and pulled it left.

I did some measuring this morning:

Front axle- left tire has ~.75mm more tread than the right tire
Rear axle- left tire has ~2mm more tread than the right tire

So hopefully replacing the rear right tire will mostly solve the issue.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I replaced the worn rear tire today and it seems much better. The tech said that the front two tires were close enough to be compatable. Thanks for your help!

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Any tips on getting my auto tranny fluid changed? My '13 S60 (with 'lifetime' fluid) has about 60k miles and I'm starting to get a little nervous. Half the sources online say to leave it alone, the other half reccomend a change (but not a flush). I've reached out to several mechanics in my area and they all either only offer a flush or don't want to touch it at all.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


My Civic’s bumper won’t stay in place due to an appearant design flaw. Would it be a bad idea to try a few dabs of JB Plastic weld to keep it in the right position?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Godholio posted:

There are clips on the inside that should be holding it in place. They may be broken, they may just not be connected.

That’s the design flaw; the clips are super soft and immediately warp out of positiob. Honda has replaced them 3 times and within 24 hours the bumper always successfully refucks itself.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Would these exhaust tips look dumb on my stock civic? (Not my car)

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


So I received this slightly cryptic letter from Honda this week regarding my 2018 Civic.

Would you guys interpret this as “your powertrain warranty is extended to 6 years/unlimited miles”, or “your warranty is extended for damage caused by this specific issue”?

I drive A LOT (like 50k miles a year), so effectively having the warranty on the engine and CVT extended to 300k miles would be nuts.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


My 2020 Camaro makes a ticking/tapping noise when accelerating. Dealer insists they don’t hear anything. If the engine was knocking (due to a bad knock sensor or something), it would throw a CEL right?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


rdb posted:

Well if it was actually spark knock it would be picked up by a knock sensor, and if the knock sensor was bad the CEL would illuminate. However, the CEL won’t light up just because a knock sensor picked up spark knock. I don’t think rod knock messes with them.

Post a video with audio, maybe someone here could pick up on it. Does the frequency follow engine RPM or only occurs when certain conditions are met?

Direct injection gasoline engines are inherently noisy as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkKsBq4-m2E

It’s kind of hard to capture but you can barely hear it in this video- kind of high-pitched rattle in the background

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Mar 17, 2020

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Sorry, fixed I think?

It’s a little hard to hear, kind of like a cricket chirping.

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Mar 17, 2020

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Rock My Socks! posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkKsBq4-m2E

It’s kind of hard to capture but you can barely hear it in this video- kind of high-pitched rattle in the background

Bumping this. This isn’t what spark or rod knock would sound like, right?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Colostomy Bag posted:

Does the noise vary by speed? Noticed you kept it constant.

Does it make the sound at idle? If it's rod knock you'll know it.

But to my ears sounds like an unhappy corner/tire. If the dealer just whipped it around the lot or drove around some low speed block that could be why they said all-ok.

The noise definitely correlates with engine speed (not the speed that the car is moving)...when I apply throttle it shows up, as soon as I take my foot off the gas it immediately stops.

It also only happens in drive; if I rev the engine in park or neutral, nothing can be heard.

It sounds totally normal at idle other than the normal light ticking that DI engine always make.

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Mar 22, 2020

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


The 8-speed shuttering issue was resolved on the Camaro for MY 2019+; I’d assume the same applies to the Colorado/Canyon.

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I’m in Houston and just bought a new Mazda3 (in beautiful Soul Red), which immediately got covered in road salt from last week’s freak snowfall.

I have zero experience with salt, do I need to get it off my paint like immediately? If handwashing isn’t an option, should I run it through a “soft touch” car wash?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


So an auto car was isn’t going to gently caress up my paint? I ended up with a ton of scratches on my last car (though it was black)

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


Wouldn't that leave water spots all over the car?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I got the oil changed on my Mazda3 Turbo yesterday, and later noticed that the invoice shows 0W20 while the manual (and oil filler cap) calls for 5W30. When I called them later, they said that the correct oil was used and that the tech probably just keyed in the wrong oil type when generating the invoice. How much sleep should I be losing over the possibility of lower viscosity oil being in my engine?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


VelociBacon posted:

How is the person on the phone even going to know what oil was used? They're just trying to get you to go away.

You need to call them back and explain that you have an invoice for the wrong type of oil for your vehicle and you need them to do another oil change and for sure use the right oil, just to be sure, and then never go back there again. It's extremely cheap for them to do an oil change. If they decline you need to speak to the business owner or go to the BBB.

OK, thanks. At any rate, a few hundred miles with the 0w20 shouldn’t cause any real damage, right?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


norton I posted:

This prompted me to check my dealer oil change receipt from a few months ago, and sure enough they added 0w20 for the normal 2.5.

I assume performance has been the same since this car hasn't seen any cold weather and probably never will.

Right, the N/A 2.5 takes 0W20 while the turbo uses 5W30

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


FWIW Costco gas is Top Tier rated and is substantially cheaper than normal gas stations in my area. I routinely get premium for around the same price or even less than regular at Shell or Exxon.

I did the math once and my wife and I save like $350 a year by getting gas exclusively at Costco while membership costs $60

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Sep 6, 2021

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


So it hit a pothole on my 2021 Mazda3 Turbo AWD and trashed the front passenger tire.

Does the logic that you have to change all four tires at once apply to modern cars that are FWD 99% of the time and just engage the rear wheels when the front tires start slipping?

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


IOwnCalculus posted:

No, that's typical.

Floor jacks can be tricky used unless you can actually test it with a load. Personally I'd spend the extra money on a HF Daytona - spending more than what those cost won't get you anything notable, spending less will show it. Jackstands I just wouldn't trust someone's used stands and good ones are not expensive.

This depends entirely on two things. One, how worn are your tires? Two, what does the owner's manual say?

All AWD vehicles should have some mention in the owner's manual of an allowable tread difference between tires. On older purely mechanical systems this allowance is very small. On newer systems that are entirely computer-actuated there may be a surprising amount of leeway. In either case you'll need to measure the tread depth of your current tires, compare that to the tread depth of the same tire when new, and compare that difference to what the owner's manual says you can do.

Mazda doesn’t offer any thresholds…thry just say that you have to replace all tires at once. But I don’t necessarily buy that, since there is always going to be some variation in the tread depths of your tires unless you’re super anal about getting rotations done (which I can’t imagine most people are)

My depths are:

Front driver: 6/32
Rear driver: 8/32
Rear passenger: 7/32
And it looks like the OEM Bridgestone is 10/32

So that would put a 4/32 delta between a brand new tire and the most worn one, or a .25 inch gap in circumference I think? Which is the max that Subaru recommends if that makes any difference.

Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Nov 21, 2021

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


2011 Toyota Highlander

My mother in law’s car needs the front lower control arms and ball joints replaced. The dealer quoted $3600 for the job ($2500 for the arms and $1100 for the ball joints) which seems completely insane.

I looked up the parts and they should be about $450 total. Plus I’m thinking maybe 4-5 hours labor should still put her under $1500 total for the whole job. Does that seem realistic?

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Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


lovely pic, but anyone know what this thing is? Had Mexican plates and the badge seemed to say “DAC” but as far as I can tell there isn’t a company by that name that makes compact sedans.

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