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Powered Descent posted:Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb. No. The bulbs are not enough. The projectors matter so you don't blind people. There is also no DOT approved way to do this that costs less than buying a car that has LED lights or at least LED lights as an option and retrofitting the correct OEM parts to your car.
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Feb 8, 2015 05:07
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GOD IS BED posted:Reposting this from the last thread, I am wondering if I'm destroying my wife's car. No. I don't know where he got that idea. Spinning the tires won't do anything at all to destroy the diff. Heavily loading them repeatedly to spin them will obviously cause issues (like on dry pavement), but that has little to to with FWD/open diff/LSD. But the most likely place to break parts when spinning tires - which again has nothing to do with FWD/open diff/etc - is when they're spinning and you suddenly regain traction, like going from mud to dry tarmac or spinning on a patch of ice and then hitting dry hitting tarmac.
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Feb 9, 2015 17:32
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Slavvy posted:Yes it is, that's (partly) what a vacuum gauge is for. Normal being around 17-22 inches of mercury, my car is around 25. I don't know how to answer your question beyond it being a vacuum gauge explicitly designed for this purpose. I was actually hoping to discover incorrect ignition timing or something like that. I think he was getting at the fact that you used "normal" as a measure. None of that matters diagnostically. What matters are real number and how it's moving in which conditions. It's not complicated, but it's not something like "between x and y is fine." Here's the best thing I could come up with. Feel free to ignore the article, I sure did. What matters is on the bottom. Click the scenario buttons until you find what yours is doing.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:06
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Slavvy posted:Which article...? Sorry, forgot to link it: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm As to the rest.....yes, most vacuum gauges have that. It doesn't mean it's all that matters or even how to most effectively use a vacuum gauge. To diagnose what you are now describing it would be best to do things like snapping the throttle to see what the readings look like, running at higher RPMs, etc. Vacuum rises with RPM when the throttle plate is closed like under deceleration. Under some conditions/configurations I could see this happening with a high idle or wonky valve timing/incorrect preload or advanced ignition timing. Just what is this thing idling at without load? Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 22:29
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Safety Dance posted:I know about the trick where you use propane to diagnose an evap system leak. Will MAPP (Bernzomatic "Max Power Propylene") work the same way, or am I liable to break something? Yep. Works just fine.
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Feb 23, 2015 02:39
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^^^^^ Yeah, man...the molecules are smaller. (no, they aren't and oil weight is oil weight) LeeMajors posted:So is the 'synthetic is bad for high mileage vehicles' adage just an old wives' tale, or should I really avoid it? Yes, it can cause more (not new) oil leaks. So can any quality non-synthetic oil. It just so happens that most if not all synthetic is high quality and therefore has a good detergent package. So if the method of oil sealing on your motor is primarily "nasty old oil sludge" rather than "undamaged gaskets", sure.....it can cause more leaking. But that means it needed to be repaired anyway.
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Feb 24, 2015 18:33
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ToteYourNoteLot.txt
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Feb 27, 2015 17:15
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Fucknag posted:Been having A/C issues on the Protege, it acts like it's freezing up. Hooked gauges up; static pressure is fine, while running it reaches good pressure, but then the compressor keeps drawing up the pressure difference; I saw readings in the vacuum range on the low side. Do I have a hosed pressure switch that just lets the compressor run full time, or what? You have a clog in the system. It needs to be disassembled and flushed.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:21
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Slavvy posted:You done hosed up. You mean like the fuse he attached the jump box to that he doesn't know is a fuse?
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Mar 6, 2015 13:35
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JosefStalinator posted:The mechanic who fixed my car couldn't figure out why it was on, If this is an accurate representation of what happened you need to NEVER go to that shop again because they are either incompetent or lazy.
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Mar 14, 2015 18:09
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Catronos posted:My mom just got a new 2014 Xterra a little over a month ago, but recently she was checking out the underside of the vehicle and it has some rust in spots. I'm wondering if it's normal to see rust like this on vehicles that have been sitting out in the elements or if this is excessive for a new vehicle. You're joking, right? That's what a vehicle that hasn't even made it off the truck looks like in the northeast. In fact, it's probably better.
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Mar 17, 2015 22:14
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GobiasIndustries posted:Sorry for all the stupid questions, but I've got another: I'm just going to buy a new thermostat since they're so cheap, but what kind do I need? I checked AutoZone and they have some that say 195F and others that say 180F, what is the difference? The temperature they open at. You want the one that is listed as the stock temperature, which is likely going to ben 195 if those are the only two choices you saw.
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Mar 20, 2015 22:51
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Godholio posted:Testing it's performance under load, basically, but the parts stores do that. If they said it's good, it's probably good. Unless they used one of the quick testers that often get faked out by marginal batteries with surface charges on them. If the test didn't take at least 20 minutes it wasn't tested on the real rig (the carbon pile load tester). And if it WAS tested on that rig the end of the test is to recharge the battery. So yeah....it doesn't sound like it was tested properly.
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Mar 29, 2015 21:22
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Memento posted:I figure I can just dremel the end of the screw, make sure that the tip on it is smaller in every way than the smallest dimension of the thread it needs to be backed out through, back it out, and then tap and die it to make sure they're both ok. Anyone see any major issues I'm missing that might gently caress me? That's how I'd do it. Run it in all the way, cut it off, then use a grinder bit to bevel the edges before you unscrew it. Bonus point for chasing the threads, but if you bevel and clean up before removing it shouldn't be necessary.
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Mar 29, 2015 23:56
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surf rock posted:What in the gently caress is wrong with my goddamn car? You've gotten some good advice, but based on your follow up posts the major problem you have is your mechanic. If you don't want to have to do this yourself find one that is competent and thorough.
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Mar 31, 2015 04:19
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SCA Enthusiast posted:How would using a floor jack on the pinch welds be any different from using a scissor jack? Its still exerting the same amount of the weight of the car on that small area in either case. Scissor jacks have a cutout for the pinch weld. You can get pucks to put on top of a regular floor jack to accomplish the same thing. Without something like that you're just going to fold over the pinch weld.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:44
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ilkhan posted:Speaking of brake fluid. I'm not going to run into issues with this stuff for fun driving street usage, am I? I run that in the Porsche (because racecar) and it's fine. I do swap fluid every 2 years though (and after track days when I was still doing those). Supposedly that stuff is a bit more hygroscopic than regular DOT4.
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Apr 1, 2015 16:02
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Arrath posted:Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go. BFG Commercial Tractions are on the more expensive side but are loving great for things like this. You can often find them as take offs for a more reasonable price (they come on a lot of 3/4 and 1 ton trucks and vans from the factory).
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Apr 1, 2015 21:43
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davecrazy posted:Is corrosion on the battery leades a sign of a problem? Yeah. At a minimum it means your connection is going to poo poo and the terminals and cables are being eaten. Neutralize the acid with some battery terminal cleaner or baking soda/water, remove them, clean them, neutralize again and reconnect them. Make sure they are tight and use dielectric grease to keep it from coming back as soon. If it comes back quickly it can be an indication of poor connections, overcharging or a spanked battery. If it's not a sealed battery check that it's full and top it up as necessary. It also happens faster if the plating has been eaten off the terminals.
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Apr 5, 2015 15:28
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www.amazon.com posted:Beware long post......... You drove around with a bad battery, causing your alternator to run at 100% trying to make up for it. You trashed your alternator (more specifically the voltage regulator) because of this. The alternator light being on doesn't necessarily mean it's not charging at all, just that it's not charging sufficiently. Change your alternator and don't drive around with bad batteries. Or bad alternators. Either one will destroy the other.
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Apr 14, 2015 13:55
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Nierbo posted:Could someone explain to me what the 1/2 button does and after the 22 setting there's a little screw symbol, what does that one do? "Drill". Meaning full torque with no clutch release. The rest of those numbers are amount of slip on the clutch. The 1 - 2 switch on the top are gears. It's on the lower setting now.
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Apr 17, 2015 19:29
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Astonishing Wang posted:What the heck is this vise grip doing to this 1973 f-350? I'm looking at it on Friday so I'd like to have an idea if that's a problem or not. Choke-related? There's nothing there stock. Including that round thing underneath it. Just the parking brake release handle. There's not even a hood release on those. And the chose should be automatic unless someone converted it over.
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Apr 21, 2015 18:31
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1500quidporsche posted:Stupid question here: That means the idle enrichment valve is operating. Yeah, choke if it's got a carb (electronic) but on some early FI motors they used the same symbol. It should go out once the engine starts to warm up. If not, there's a problem (and you're probably running super rich).
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Apr 28, 2015 16:42
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Leperflesh posted:Just wanted to point out, for anyone that didn't watch this video. Fuckin' Chevy, in their infinite wisdom, put TWO timing marks on the main crank pulley. WHY? Who the gently caress knows, but they did. THANKS YOU FUCKERS. This video tells me how to find the correct one. Yup. If I recall, some of the sbcs had a timing mark on the cover around 2:00 and later ones had them at 12:00. It's probably got something to do with that since the balancers will fit on a pretty wide range of motors.
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Apr 29, 2015 18:14
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loinburger posted:He's got a truck camper, so the tailgate has to be completely removed before the camper can be put on Are you sure you know what a 5th wheel tailgate looks like?  And if for some strange reason he needs to take it off it's going to be a hell of a lot lighter.
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Apr 30, 2015 23:42
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Leperflesh posted:I'm pretty sure he's talking about one of these: Ohhhh...yeah, Okay. Then it does need to come off obviously. Could you build something that fits in the back pockets of the bed out of unistrut (or angle iron) and bed pocket posts to help take some of the load off using bungees or something to allow movement? That would be the kind of ugly hack I'd come up with.
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May 1, 2015 00:23
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VelociBacon posted:I think I remember somewhere that putting one of those nets on your truck actually is super bad for your MPG. When your truck is for towing a 5th wheel around MPG is really not your primary concern. In fact, when driving a pickup and hauling air this is still pretty much the case (or at least should be).
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May 1, 2015 02:44
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TKIY posted:So what should I ask for? An actual new car?
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May 4, 2015 18:20
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TKIY posted:Oh, and a loaner to use until it arrives. Most likely the loaner they just tried to sell you. Good on you for standing your ground and getting what you want.
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May 5, 2015 19:01
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LeeMajors posted:I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. Besides being a big job, you need to have or make at least two special tools. Once to retract the hydraulic tensioner and one to hold the harmonic balancer in place.
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May 5, 2015 19:57
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LeeMajors posted:I also really want to use it as a decent learning experience, but it's my DD..... It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. Why don't you start on bypassing the in-radiator transmission cooler that is sure to destroy your trans at some point in the not too distant future? Keyword: raspberry milkshake
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May 6, 2015 00:58
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BrokenKnucklez posted:And make sure to plug the old holes in the rad so it doesn't eat a head gasket. I've always looped them because I'm lazy, but if you can find plugs.....good on you.
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May 6, 2015 01:12
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LeeMajors posted:Yeah thats done already. Might do tie rod ends and ball joints here soon. I feel more comfortable with those. Good. Honestly it's a big job. It's achievable but if you do it wrong you're really screwed. Build up to that to the point where you don't need to be asking if you can pull it off or not. At that point then you probably can because you know enough to research the procedure and have a good idea if this is something you are comfortable with or not.
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May 6, 2015 01:29
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Don't the calipers attach to a (removable) caliper bracket on those? You know, the one you have to remove to get the rotor off? If so, just buy another bracket and bolt.
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May 9, 2015 17:30
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In that case you need to pull the bracket off and use a thread repair kit. There really isn't any other (easier but still correct) option. They're brakes: they have to be right.
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May 9, 2015 17:39
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leica posted:Anyone got any good ideas on how to find a fuel leak other than getting under the car and looking for dripping or wet spots? There's nothing obvious, but I can definitely smell it and mpg is starting to suffer. It's a '96 4cyl Camry, any ideas? It's probably on the top of the tank (fuel will pool in the indentation where the pump and sensor goes) if you smell it for a while. You'll get it there when you fill or when it's mostly full and sloshes around. I don't think there's going to be any easy way to check - you should pretty much run that thing down to E and drop the tank. If it's just after you fill see how much of the filler neck you can get too. And that's if it's in the back. Up front should be easier. Normal suspects are fuel hose to FPR and rail connections and around the injectors.
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May 10, 2015 00:02
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leica posted:It's constant and not just after filling. Oh well, gonna have to dig deep I guess, I'll check the fuel pump first probably, I really don't wanna drop the tank. Can you tell if it's front or back? Like, especially right after driving (so you've blown the stank off of it). And also, are you parking in places where you would be able to see dripping or are you like me and parking on gravel where it has to be gallons before you can tell? My standard move is cardboard. See what comes down from where.
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May 10, 2015 02:44
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. Most people don't realize those leaky rear end underperforming Rover V8s were souped up and put in various small number production cars in the UK like TVRs until about 2004.
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May 11, 2015 00:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:One of my uncles has a Yamaha inverter generator that is drat near silent, quite small, and puts out very clean power. Only problem is last I looked it was over $1k and that's for a ~2kW model. Honda EU2000i most likely. Those are absolutely amazing generators, and you can get a cable to sync two of them together for a nearly silent 4k. In this case you absolutely get what you are paying for.
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May 11, 2015 17:22
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Is there some reason you aren't using a cig lighter to usb adapter and charging from that?
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May 17, 2015 15:00
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