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PaintVagrant posted:I asked earlier and I dont think anyone answered, but is it feasible to get a shop to drain my AC system, then I can replace the compressor, then they can refill? Or am I missing something obvious? Yes, you're missing the part where you have no way of pressure testing it and also shouldn't be installing the dryer until RIGHT BEFORE you vac and fill it.
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May 22, 2015 21:25
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Raluek posted:(because quotes aren't always accurate), Especially bodywork quotes. What happens when this totally minor looking bumper scratch that gets quoted turns into needing more parts once it's disassembled? That's pretty typical of collision damage.
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May 23, 2015 21:26
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Based on the picture that could be anything from a bumper cover respray to a new bumper cover to a new bumper cover plus all of the impact absorbing bits behind it.
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May 23, 2015 23:30
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BlackMK4 posted:I called my insurance company in a case like this. They fixed my car right away for $0 and then went after the other insurance company for the money. Your insurance company/state may vary on this, but it's generally the right way to go. Sometimes you have to pay your deductible until it's subrogated (they get paid by the other insurance company). But this is pretty much one of the reasons you pay for insurance......let them do the legwork/paperwork unless the striking driver's insurance company is willing to play ball immediately. I've done both in different situations. The one where I used my own insurance company happened when the striking vehicle company was moving too slowly. Called the case agent back and said "this isn't working; I'm not waiting any longer. Expect a call from my insurance company." I had authorization to repair with promise of payment three days later from my own company.
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May 25, 2015 00:10
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McMadCow posted:So here's a weird one. It's from a Porsche, but generic enough that I don't want to bother asking in the Porsche thread... It's muffler fluff. 100 miles isn't enough to even know what you exhaust note will end up at yet. But keep an eye on it.
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May 27, 2015 03:05
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Quick question about my rear view mirror. The mirror has popped off a couple of times, and car vibrations tend to start the dislodge process. The button that's attached to the window is stuck on tight, it's the spring (?) part that slides over it that doesn't hold it completely fast anymore. Is there some kind of glue that will work for this? Searching for mirror replacement glue only brings up the glue for the button itself. Or am I stuck buying a new mirror assembly and sliding it onto the button... If you have the spring type and not a set screw all you can do is try to bend the spring out more (obviously while it's off the windshield). A small pry bar works.
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May 28, 2015 02:17
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1500quidporsche posted:84 VW scirocco. The current "standard" would be and ISO plug. You should be able to find the male side easily, and with a bit of looking find the female side.
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May 28, 2015 17:28
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HummedExplosions posted:So I'm looking at a 2000 Toyota Tacoma. I know that these had issues with frame rust, and that this truck is outside of Toyota's replacement window. I took some pictures of the worst of it, does this look concerning or normal and expected? It doesn't look nearly as bad as a lot of them, but I'd want to poke around at it. Like literally poke at the rust, and not just in the easy to access spots.
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Jun 1, 2015 20:35
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wormil posted:'99 F150, 4.6L, 178k miles, Auto, 2wd 99% chance the rear axle speed sensor is bad.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:04
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ROFLburger posted:Has anyone ever encountered intermittent rod knock? That sounds a lot more like piston slap then rod knock.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:06
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EightBit posted:Yeah, that's what my 4.0 did for a while before it munched the piston completely. And my 4.6 ford mod motor did it from about 36,001 miles until I sold it at 220k. As far as I know it's still going. Sometimes it's not a big deal, just annoying. Not sure on the motor ROFLburger is talking about.
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Jun 13, 2015 01:34
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asdf32 posted:My AC was occasionally turning on/off last year (pretty cold when it was cold, not at all cold when it wasn't cold) and just shut off completely off in the middle of driving this summer. Please put down the cheapie recharge kit and start at the beginning of my AC thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944
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Jun 14, 2015 02:03
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Dollas posted:2010 Hyundai Elantra GLS in case it matters. It's not going to tell you much of anything useful. See my AC thread for information: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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Jun 16, 2015 15:29
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PaintVagrant posted:Yes that will definitely be my go to resource. I just haven't dug in too hard because of the difficulty finding gauges. You can order them from amazon, harbor freight, etc. I got the set I use the most at a ReTool (used tool store). But until you have them you are flying blind.
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Jun 19, 2015 03:08
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QuarkMartial posted:My wife lost the remote to her car and we're down to one key. It's just a standard chip key and the one she lost was a flip key/remote thing. What's the best way to go about replacing it? Is it a red car or a blue car? efb.
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Jun 27, 2015 03:29
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1500quidporsche posted:What's the best DOT 4 brake fluid avaliable in north america? ATE (gold or blue - I switch on each change so I know I have a full bleed)
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Jul 4, 2015 03:11
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BlackMK4 posted:Blue isn't for sale in the U.S. anymore. SERIOUSLY? Had to look this up. http://hooniverse.kinja.com/braking-news-ate-super-blue-illegal-for-u-s-distribut-1153557989/1154188522 I guess my stash is gonna run out then. I only have 2 more cans of blue. How loving ridiculous is that?
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Jul 4, 2015 04:10
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loving ridiculous.
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No, there will be more bleeding and cursing, especially in the back (loving master cylinder and booster in the way). I typically use some combination of a wobbler and u joint (yes, both at the same time on different length extensions) to get at the back ones.
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Jul 9, 2015 05:23
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BadSamaritan posted:Am I right in just walking away from this YES. And if at all possible separate your finance from the purchase. Like go to your bank or credit union and tell them what you want to spend on a car and see if they will loan you the money.
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Jul 25, 2015 03:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are those loving wire nuts? Prime indicator of a hack job right there. If it's the build quality of the few golf carts I've had the displeasure of working on those could be from the factory.
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Jul 25, 2015 22:26
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Alright so atlanta has really lovely roads and my 94 ranger bounced me up into the roof of the cab at least twice today. I have cheap monroe shocks on all around and have never done anything with the springs or anything on the front. You guys think a better quality shock would fix that or do I need to look at shocks and springs? You need to slow down, pick better lines, or not drive a mini pickup. Or at least drive it with a few hundred pounds in the bed. I suppose it's possible your springs are so beat that you are hitting the bump stops, but that seems unlikely and wouldn't happen if you follow the previous advice. Your truck would also handle like a disaster in nearly any situation if the springs and/or shocks were that bad. Arriviste posted:That's Drive and Overdrive. OD has a higher gear ratio and can be used all the time, except for certain situations like towing or steep elevation changes. (AKA "use it for cruisin', not workin'.") The difference between drive and overdrive on an automatic is almost always whether the torque converter locks up (typically at a predetermined speed in top gear, usually around 50 MPH) or not. It isn't "another gear".
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Aug 1, 2015 22:59
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Senior Funkenstien posted:It feels like the truck isnt even in contact with the road in the worst of it. This sounds a whole lot like a 1/4 ton pickup to me. But if your is worse than normal, let's talk about just how new these shocks are. And if they are any good at all to begin with (oil leaking out of them, if you bounce a corner a bunch of times and let go do it keep bounding or does it stop inside of one cycle?) Also, how many miles are on this thing? Has anyone would could say "that spring is broken" or other suspension issues looked at it? It's hard to get a sense of just how bad is bad over the internet, but.....as I've said mini trucks typically ride like unmitigated poo poo in the manner you have described.
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Aug 2, 2015 00:16
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Its got a lot of miles on it. 272000 so far. I replaced the shocks with cheap monroes when I got it almost one year ago. I have gone over it and the springs look fine but they may be worn out but not broken. So your shocks are bad. There is no question about that. Start there. 22 Eargesplitten posted:So is the circle D the OD, or is the regular D? I just want to know what gear to keep it in for normal driving. If we're going up to the mountains, odds are we're doing it in my Subaru anyway, and that's a manual so that's simpler if I need to speed up faster. Put it in overdrive (circle D). This is always the answer unless you are plowing or towing. This information is also in the owners manual that is in your glove box. If it's missing you can find it online at the manufacturer's web site.
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Aug 2, 2015 01:34
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scuz posted:Is it possible for a 2002 Golf 2.0L to pass a compression test and still be leaking oil into the cylinders? I thought I had solved my oil consumption issue by replacing the valve cover gasket, but the motor is still going through oil pretty quick, like a quart every 4 weeks. Depending on the conditions of a test and what constitutes "passing", yes. Also, leaking isn't consumption. Valve cover gaskets cause leaks while bad valve guides and various ring/cylinder wall issues (among other things) cause consumption (burning of the oil). Consumption is much worse not only because it's typically more difficult/expensive to repair but also because you are blowing oil through your cats. So exactly how much oil is disappearing how frequently? Are there any other external leaks (like, have you cleaned the motor and then driven it for a while and confirmed no new oil shows up on it or the ground)? Do you blow blue smoke under any conditions (most popularly under acceleration or revving after extended idling)?
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Aug 2, 2015 21:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Usually you're right but I am having a really hard time thinking of any application where the difference between drive / overdrive is only the lockup and not an additional gear with a ratio less than 1:1. I guess I'm thinking older poo poo with 3/4 speed autos. It's pretty typical there. I guess with 5/6/7/8 speeds they are locking out gears for this kind of thing. But torque converter lockup still doesn't' happen unless you're in top gear as far as I know. (outside of special snowflake) We all know there are exceptions to everything, like chrysler trans that don't use the same gears on the way up as they do on the way down, but I'm just talking generalities.
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Aug 3, 2015 04:00
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Raluek posted:Hm, I've never seen a "manual mode" automatic that will actually hold a gear no matter what. My Chevy certainly doesn't do that. But, that's good to know. 1 should hold 1, but 2 won't hold 2.....just keep it out of 3 (so it can be in 1 or 2). From what I understand most transmissions will override this if the rpms go up too high. I know a lot of the 90s/2000s ZF boxes do. Of course this is probably all different with flappy paddle autos. My friends' previous gen S4 would actually hold a gear and you could lug it at low rpms.
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Aug 3, 2015 23:20
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http://www.mrinjector.us/ Get a rebuild kit, pull some out of scrap and send them off, send your off. All depends on your time line. I'd recommend one of the last two. .....if it's even the injectors.
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Aug 29, 2015 21:45
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"Window scraper"
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Sep 2, 2015 14:16
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GiantDutchman posted:it now has 4 Linglong Crosswind tires instead of the Michelin that it had when I was test driving it. Bait and switch. Should should have refused taking delivery right then and there. The worn out Michelins were likely twice as good as new chinese tires. Git Mah Belt Son posted:I was checking out a late model 2014 used car that seems great but I'm on the fence because of one issue I saw. For whatever reason, the passenger door jamb has expanding foam in it. No idea why it was there. I didn't bring it up to the dealer yet, maybe using it as a bargaining chip later if it's nothing major. Run away. PO was an idiot and you'll be finding even worse things soon if you buy that car.
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Sep 13, 2015 16:23
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FogHelmut posted:Any thoughts on window chip repair kits? Most insurance companies will do chip repair for free, and send someone out with the proper equipment to make a good repair (that won't).
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Sep 19, 2015 22:33
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stray posted:My 2008 Nissan Sentra (~82K miles, stick shift) has developed a problem with stalling. Bad IAC or a bad TPS.
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Sep 22, 2015 22:41
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It's something that SHOULD HAVE BEEN taken care of in the course of an alignment. You had a lazy tech. And nobody cares about things like that on a trade in at a dealership.
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Sep 22, 2015 23:25
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InitialDave posted:Does anyone have an opinion on the best lubricant for an old-school Bendix screw mechanism on a starter motor? It's not totally jammed, but it has an annoying tendency to just sit there spinning rather than throwing out to engage unless you give it a thump. The bendix is not supposed to be lubed at all according to the guys at my local rebuild place. I was told that anything thin enough to do the job just ends up making a mess and getting into the starter to cause problems and anything heavy enough to stay cakes up and makes the situation worse than it was before in short order.
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Sep 28, 2015 15:17
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Woodsy Owl posted:There is a stinky spot of carpet in our car What made it stink and how wet wast it? To begin with we have to talk about surface nasty vs. wet poo poo that got into the padding.
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Oct 4, 2015 01:26
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Woodsy Owl posted:We're not exactly sure what made it smell. Is there an option that would cover both? Would an interior detailing solve the issue? Yes, the most difficult of the two options: remove the carpet and padding from the vehicle so it can be cleaned and dried properly.
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Oct 5, 2015 17:16
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InitialDave posted:On the other hand, everything is available Have fun sourcing a new bulkhead. Unless someone else started making them again. I've walked away from two series trucks because the bulkheads were too far gone to repair and too expensive to replace. That might be different in the UK where you can get one from a scrap yard (maybe).
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Oct 10, 2015 21:45
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spog posted:We can get them *new* here In fact Yeah....and it costs more than the shitheap you intend to put it in. At least when i last looked. Blah blah shipping (wasn't the real issue). If you have a better lead on some let me know, because it will change my opinion on disassembling a hunk of rust in my shed for 2 years.
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Oct 11, 2015 00:16
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stevobob posted:Anyone tried this before? DIY smoke machine with 3psi regulated air and mineral oil smoke. Yes.  Works great.
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Oct 25, 2015 17:31
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stevobob posted:Do you just haul any old vacuum line off, plug one side and smoke the other? Not sure what you mean. That regulator on the side is an LP regulator. They are good to about 200 PSI and put out 1/2 a PSI on the other side (into the can). Once you get the wick hot enough (only cover it part way with mineral oil) you have 1/2 PSI of smoke coming out of the hose. Throw it on the brake booster line or something for general intake vacuum leaks. If you don't find anything you need to look at a vac diagram and figure out where there are valves in the system of whatever type and either actuate them or just plug in past the valve. This also works great for finding exhaust leaks. Just find a rubber stopper the size of your tail pipe, drill a hole and plug the hose in. Give it a few minutes to fill with smoke and you'll find the leak. (protip: drilling through soft rubber plugs sucks rear end, but if you put them in the freezer overnight things go a lot easier)
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Oct 25, 2015 19:24
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 03:47 |
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H110Hawk posted:
If you're concerned about this (it's a new vehicle under warranty) why not ask them, or open the hood of the dozen on either side of it to see if they are the same?
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Oct 26, 2015 04:24
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