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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


kid sinister posted:

How hard is it to fix the factory remote start on a 2019 Ford Escape? When I press the required button combo on the key fob, the car just honks. That's it. Do I need to take it to the dealership?

You have to determine what condition is not being met. it could be a door or hood not shut properly, or a sensor gone wonky.

In general, it needs the hood, lift gate, lift gate glass, and doors shut properly, and no check engine light.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Jan 30, 2024

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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Even if they’ve solved the mechanical issues they’re still a lovely company fighting the customers they’ve wronged.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


That just sounds to me like a starter going bad, likely unreleated to the theft.

The bendix is engaging but the starter isn't spinning. I can't think of a dash wiring related issue that would cause that.

You can pull the starter and bench test it by applying 12v.

A new one is $100-$200 and if you have a safe way to get the front end in the air can be replaced with basic hand tools.

If it is the starter, it will at one point, likely at the worst possible time, completely stop working even after performing the ritual. Mine died in a car wash and i had to push the truck outside and replace it in the parking lot. I was fortunate enough to have 3 foot long arms and ground clearance so i was able to replace it with the truck on the ground.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 12, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


1) Yes. just make sure you're hitting against the metal, Some starters can have plastic parts. it usually helps having someone tap it while you try to start it if that's in the cards.

2) That does look like the part number. if you have to take it to a retail mechanic they might not want to install a part you supplied.


Book time(what a mechanic would bill for) is only 0.7 hours.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


buglord posted:

Perfect

Not sure what a retail mechanic is vs a regular mechanic, but I should be good if I'm just calling ahead and asking if they'd install a starter I supplied?

Few more questions came through since I had posted this morning. I'm incredibly grateful for your patience in answering the ones I posted prior.

3) A friend is insistent I sign up with AAA, then have them come out and test my car. My car sprang to life today, so I can give it a few days till it acts up, then call AAA after ive been onboard for several days. He had called them when he couldn't start his car and they confirmed his issue was just with a starter and not the other parts he had suspected (alternator)

4) Same friend also asked if this could potentially have anything to do with the steering column, ignition, alternator. None of you mentioned this, so I figured this wasn't something you believed to be an issue. But AAA could be the one to narrow it down? Or am I pretty much safe in assuming its just the starter, given the information i've provided.

I mean like, if it's someone you know who is a mechanic, they'll probably do it, but if it's just a local shop you find in the phone book, you should definitely confirm they will install a part you provide. They should also be able to give you a quote for it, which you can expect to possibly be slightly higher. Some may want diagnostic time.

If it was the alternator or battery, you probably wouldn't hear it click the same every time, and it would get progressively worse instead of being intermittent. after a few attempts it would start a quieter, more rapid clicking. meaning if you were constantly losing voltage it wouldn't start better on later attempts.

If it was a problem with the ignition wires, you likely wouldn't hear the starter try to engage.

AAA will test a battery and alternator simply by touching a multimeter to the battery terminals with the vehicle not running, and running. I don't think they have the means to roadside test a starter. A year's membership here is pretty similar in cost to a single tow though, so if you drive junk and rely on your vehicle it's not a terrible thing to have.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 13, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


HenryJLittlefinger posted:

So does all this stuff yall are saying about a Corolla apply to a 2009 Matrix with under 190K?

Matrices only really start losing value once the odometer hits 299,999 because that's as high as they go.

an 09 with 299,999kms showing would still list for 5 grand here.

Reminder these are auction prices, so lower than private party. Also Canadian dollars, mileage in kms, etc.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I could only see part of the tachometer but when the "grinding" starts your RPM dips and bounces like the engine is misfiring. Is your check engine light on or flashing?

From the video and your description of struggling to keep it running in gear, it sounds to me like either a bad vacuum leak or it jumped timing. Either would cause a check engine light

Do you know when the last time the timing belt was changed?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I believe the check engine light should be in a cluster of 4 lights below the tachometer, it should come on and go out when you turn on the ignition, before you start the car.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Comparing your two videos, when it's having trouble it's sitting at around 600 rpm, on the edge of stalling. On cold start-up it's sitting around 1200.

The way it runs there, i doubt it's anything major. It could be something like a coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, or main relay.

Needing to hit the starter a few times before it starts to turn over could be a separate unrelated issue with the starter that is also made worse by higher under-hood temps.

DildenAnders posted:

Is it just me or does that sound like heat soak/vapor lock? I know it's not that common on fuel injected vehicles.

Looking into it, that does seem to happen with them, and the solution is a colder-temp thermostat. Not guaranteed to be what's happening here but if you don't have the means to investigate by monitoring fuel pressure, an asian-model specific mechanic in your area will probably be able to figure it out pretty quickly.

If this was me, before replacing parts my steps would be:

Checking for codes, checking coolant temp sensor and fuel pressure reading with the code reader(an auto parts store will usually help with this for free)
Check fuel pressure at the rail if nothing is indicated in the ECU(fuel pressure gauge required)
Pull the main relay under the dash and check for damaged solder connections if the fuel pressure is fine

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Feb 21, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Auction prices. model-specific forums. Hagerty is starting to include japanese stuff.

Bring a trailer always goes high, to get an idea of the upper bounds. Mecum in general only has lower mile/nicer examples.

Hagerty lists the 92 TT for example at 12,000 CAD in fair condtion, 32,200 CAD in good condition, -15% for automatic.

That's about where they end up on BAT.

https://bringatrailer.com/nissan/z32-300zx/

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Are the front calipers on the correct side with the bleeder at the top?

Have you tried bleed it the old fashioned way. one person pump and hold, the other open and close the bleeder?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


WTFBEES posted:

Calipers are confirmed to be on the correct side. Top of picture is up.



Uhh, are they? it looks like the bleeder is on the bottom side of the caliper.

e: it seems right, i guess. that's what the pictures on this are.

https://dandcextreme.com/product-category/brakes/brake-calipers/

e: it's wrong according to this, and how it works in my head.



The unless the top channel where the bleeder would be tapped isn't drilled at all, there would be an air pocket at everything higher than the bleeder.

e: yeah, i think your calipers are on the wrong sides, and upside down. hopefully someone less high can chime in.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 7, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


PainterofCrap posted:

You are correct. The bleeder should be high; if you are even able to swap them, you do not want the bleeder below the cylinder, you;ll never get all of the air out. They are installed correctly.

The bleeder is in the middle of the cylinder there. I'm fairly sure they're upside down.



from:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGlGp_byU-w

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


WTFBEES posted:

Well poo poo, I thought the important part was that the bleeder was higher than the brake line. If that's not the case then we have some caliper swapping to do.

What's happening is all the air(blue) is sitting up in a pocket, and all the new fluid you run through it(red) is never going to push it out.

With the caliper flipped, the bleeder is on the other face at the top. The fluid fills up the caliper from the top and the air rises up to the bleeder.



It makes sense that the brakes would work better but not well with pressure already on it from the pressure bleeder, as it would pre-compress the air a little bit increasing the overall pressure with the pedal, but you're still largely compressing air instead of pushing on the piston.

e: i think the raybestos listings i posted have them wrong too. The first link has them labeled right. Shows how easy a mistake it is to make.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Mar 7, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Hed posted:

Wife scratched her glossy black wheels. It's just visible white scratches in one sector where you can feel the scratched metal.

Before re-anodizing or w/e or rebuying should I use Alumiblack touch up? The touch up product is not really glossy but I'm just trying to avoid the eyesore.

Any other ideas or application/prep tips?

These are the wheels:


Very wrong product.

It’s just black paint on the wheel. Likely powder coat which is just a type of paint that gets baked on. You can sand, mask and spray the damaged section with automotive black spray paint. Or if it’s just a bunch of small scratches get a gloss black touch up pen. If you can get the wheel off and horizontal you’ll have a better result. Just make sure it’s clean wherever you’re applying paint. If the scratches are shallow enough that you can just build it up with the paint pen do so in light layers.

If it was me and I wanted it perfect, I would fill the scratches with body filler, sand smooth, mask off the section, apply one or two coats then unmask blend it in with one last coat and then wet sand and polish.


I can't speak to this specific product, but this it the type of thing. https://www.amazon.com/Matte-Black-Rim-Touch-Paint/dp/B0CKLW4NM6

Duplicolor makes these in universal gloss black, they have a little tip to scuff the area for painting and ball-point type tip and a brush inside for larger gouges. I've used it for body stuff and it has worked well for me. https://www.duplicolor.com/product/scratch-fix-all-in-1-exact-match-automotive-touch-up-paint/

Powershift fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Mar 7, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


All the modules and sensors being unhappy, and problems intermittent makes me think it's a voltage/ground issue. Chasing this can be extremely time consuming.

The tie rod wouldn't give ABS codes, at this point it just sounds like a torn boot which will lead to an unpleasant failure down the road.

I think you are being taken advantage of. Sanitizing HVAC lines is probably charging an hour labour for running a $20 can of cleaner through the vents. The throttle body shouldn't see any carbon. If it does get dirty/sticky it would be noticeable in unpredictable performance. Replacing sensors when all the modules are going haywire is strange.

I don't know what your skill level is for DIY is, but there are things you can do yourself to try to narrow down the issues without constantly paying mechanics for diagnosis.

1. get a cheap ELM OBD2 reader off of amazon and Forscan. There is support here and on model specific forums for the errors and faults it shows. You will also be able to see the voltage the PCM is seeing, they are very sensitive and too high or too low can create a ton of errors.
2. inspect as much of the wiring harness as you can. follow the wires looking for wear on the sleeves around the wires or corrosion(specifically around the battery). get ahold of a multi meter and check the voltage with the vehicle running.

Unfortunately chasing electrical gremlins can take a lot of time without yielding results, paying shop labour rates to do this can add up pretty quickly. shops parts-cannoning expensive sensors when so many of them are showing errors will add up quickly as you've seen. Dealerships are more expensive for general work, but for a diagnostic on an issue like this they might have more knowledge and experience on narrowing down where the fault is.

As with any electrical gremlins, they could cause the car to stop running. You can look into an AAA/AMA/whatever membership as a yearly membership is often the cost of a tow.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


WTFBEES posted:

The goddamn calipers were swapped all along. Thanks Powershift and everyone else for saving us from this unending misery.

We've all been there. I'm glad it's sorted. Hopefully you can take it out and enjoy it now.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Can you get it up on jackstands and see if it makes the noise without the wheels on the ground? That would definitely differentiate between wheel bearings/tires and drive train.

There is a TSB for the front wheel bearings "howling or moaning" but it doesn't go any further than Acura wanting low mileage parts for investigation.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/Acura/RDX/2015/tsbs/tsb-b-pas-02162016-9.shtml

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


I can't think of what else it would be based on what you've eliminated.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


As i understand it, that's why F10 BMW 5ers with the V8 eat a battery an oil change, because it only runs the alternator while coasting/decelerating and never charges during steady state highway cruising.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


hark posted:

Anybody know of an online place where I could get a reasonably priced replacement hood for my car? A homeless guy literally jumped onto my hood in an attempt to extort money from me for "hitting" him, and now I have a big rear end dent. I can do the insurance thing, since I have a police report stating he did this, but I don't want my rate to go up so I'd like to diy it if I can find something that isn't insanely priced.

And I already checked all the pick n pull places, they don't have the hood for my model car, just most other parts.

https://www.car-part.com/ lists auto wrecker inventory

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


that 6 pin looks identical to BMW audio plugs.

number 6:

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...d=2122336232&q=

https://www.znmperformance.com/bmw-universal-socket-housing-uncoded-kit-genuine-bmw-61132359992/

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


DarkHorse posted:

Just the noises from the entertainment system powering on. The engine doesn't even attempt to turn over

You can buy or make a starter switch and jump the starter to see if it will even turn over.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jptOflQnO4k

Forscan with most OBD2 dongles can diagnose and program PATS. They charge yearly for an extended license now but there's a 2 month trial.

https://forscan.org/download.html

Powershift fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Apr 2, 2024

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


If speedometers can go to 180mph in cars that rarely see 60, we should have 7 digit odometers.

Imagine that flex, “oh, your odometer only goes to 999,999? “

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Just buy a real Panda AE86, it's about the same price.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Compass module.

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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


The headliner from a regular wrecking yard non-mousehouse Fiesta should fit. You can probably re-skin it with a nice fabric or something if you so chose.

There are a couple listed out of an ST on car-part.com but they're $500.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:15 on May 4, 2024

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