|
Where's a good place to buy a new fender online? 2007 GTI, should be common enough.
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2015 12:26
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 5, 2024 00:24 |
|
|
two_beer_bishes posted:Have you checked rockauto.com? Yeah that's the first place I looked but I couldn't find front fenders and I would really like to buy some pre-painted ones since the paint on the rest of the car looks basically new (50k kms on the car and it's been garage kept).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2015 12:55
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Cracked knock sensors should be replaced as a rule, even if the car appears to be behaving itself and not throwing any codes, right? Because guess what I found when I pulled the intake manifold off of the 840 to do the gaskets today. It's not just one either, it's all loving four of them. It's a lot more important on a forced induction motor but yes they should be replaced.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 13, 2015 00:08
|
|
|
coronaball posted:Im text to speech posting so bear with me for any weird typos. Came back to car this morning. Still wouldn't start from park. I was sitting there bored waiting for the tow truck, so high put it in neutral, and it started right up. so now I don't know what the f*** is going on. some kind of ignition problem? Could be a starter on it's way out, or if it's an automatic could be the sensor that tells the ECU what position the auto gearstick is in. Try smacking the starter with something next time it won't start (stuck solenoid troubleshooting).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 22, 2015 16:43
|
|
|
Buy a cheap multimeter from wherever and (if your car starts) measure how much current you have at the battery terminals with the car off as well as on. Check to see if any fuses are visibly burnt out in the fuse box under the hood. Should have more than 14v while idling and 12+ volts with the engine off. If you have less than 14 with the car running and when you throttle the motor up with your hand it raises up you have a problem with your alternator for sure. If it's a low voltage while running and doesn't move up when you throttle the engine up it's probably still your alternator.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2015 03:50
|
|
|
Raluek posted:Voltage, surely? You're not going to be able to measure automotive current with a cheap multimeter. Whoops, yeah I meant voltage sorry.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2015 07:43
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Battery's never been unplugged, car is a DD that showed up for a vacuum leak related CEL. This sounds a lot more like a solenoid or fluid pressure issue than a worn clutch but I don't know those cars well. Did you step on the brake and gas in 3rd and see if it slips?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2015 01:54
|
|
|
Smy cat is norris posted:Is $300 a fair estimate for a windshield replacement on a 2012 Nissan Versa sedan? Sounds reasonable.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2015 14:16
|
|
The estimate includes labor.
|
Hit that poo poo with something hard a few times and try starting it again. If it starts, replace your starter because the solenoid is probably shot. Should be a do-it-yourself repair and a remanufactured starter is pretty cheap.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2015 19:53
|
|
|
Kumbamontu posted:2013 Chevrolet Equinox LS w/ 25k miles Always go for the warranty just so it's on the record that you had this problem.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2015 20:32
|
|
|
Honestly I've had plenty of occasions with older lovely cars where I just say gently caress it and jump a car right to the battery terminals and it's been fine, just have watched to see if the battery holds charge. I have to say I'd be trying to jump the car this way before buying a trickle charger.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2015 04:53
|
|
|
FWIW I've never seen loving explosions while jumping a car to the terminals. Maybe I will soon.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2015 09:27
|
|
|
Subterfrugal posted:Can y'all help me diagnose a manual transmission problem on a 2004 Ford Focus? When you say "a lot of RPM for a little movement" do you mean the RPM's are spinning up but the car isn't accelerating properly? FWIW, the clutch pedal has a small switch so it can tell when it's pushed down all the way, being able to start the car with the clutch down doesn't really infer anything about the health of the transmission just that the pedal is pushed down. I'd say you probably boned your clutch but the rest of the story with the weird shifting and stuff makes me think it could be something more serious to do with the internals of the transmission. Having issues shifting from 5->4 makes me think syncro.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2015 15:44
|
|
|
Subterfrugal posted:That's right, I probably wasn't describing it properly. After I got it back from the mechanic, the first time I got it into third gear I observed really poor acceleration and pressed further down the pedal to get through the intersection. Within about a block from there (and a tour through the gears), it became clear that no amount of gas applied to the throttle will produce acceleration in any gear. From the cabin, it appears as everything is working as intended. That sounds a lot like a slipping clutch but because you JUST had a component of the hydraulic system replaced I'd want to make sure it's not a failed new part or something that wasn't put back together properly.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2015 16:01
|
|
|
I think I remember somewhere that putting one of those nets on your truck actually is super bad for your MPG.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2015 02:11
|
|
|
I would absolutely not get a subaru for a 'learn to repair' car. The orientation of the motor makes it twice as annoying to do a lot of work. Look for something with an inline motor maybe.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2015 06:47
|
|
|
Budgie posted:Are UK car problems welcome in this thread? UK questions are welcome but the majority of the people answering the questions here won't be familiar with your vehicle (I'm not). As mentioned above you either have a bad fuse or something is shorting out that circuit. That could be a faulty part or a damaged wiring loom, or damaged insulation where a wire goes through firewall or something. Has the car been in an accident recently? Have you driven through a massive puddle recently?
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2015 20:35
|
|
|
It'd probably need a full repaint. $3-5k.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2015 02:13
|
|
|
Swapping a cat out for OEM means an extra $500 most of the time in newer cars where the cat is part of a section of exhaust or downpipe.... That's a pretty big deal.
|
|
#
¿
May 4, 2015 17:00
|
|
|
LeeMajors posted:I'm tempted to take a long weekend and do my own timing belt/water pump on my 2000 3.4L V6 4Runner. I wouldn't do this without someone's help that has experience with them. I'd happily pay $500 for a shop to assume the liability. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 21:31 on May 5, 2015 |
|
#
¿
May 5, 2015 21:23
|
|
|
Philosopher King posted:My dad has an 1968 chevelle sport coup. Whats the best way to tell what specific version or engine he has? Take a picture under the hood and google around to see pictures of them online with descriptions.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 01:23
|
|
|
If it's not an original engine it's just worth a lot less. It would be expected to run just as well, it's just a collector thing.
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2015 04:11
|
|
|
Sounds possibly like a ball joint but if you landed the car on something it could possibly be damage to where the lower control arm mounts to the subframe. It's really hard to tell since it was an impact that started this.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2015 06:41
|
|
|
If he's actually losing noticeable mileage and can smell fuel I'd say this is going to be at least a medium and probably a large sized leak.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 00:18
|
|
|
DesperateDan posted:Kids (presumably) nicked the dustcaps off my tyres, are the locking ones worth it or shall I just get a shitload of black plastic ones? Are you talking about valve stem covers?
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2015 18:27
|
|
|
Is the LS1 a Chevy small block? It's in everything.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2015 00:49
|
|
|
You should have the codes ran, you can have some without the CEL on.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2015 02:08
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I bet if you sprayed a rag with some silicone spray, WD40 or whatever, and wiped it around the tyre just before painting, the paint'd not adhere and flake off easily afterwards. May be worth an experiment? I think WD40 fucks with rubber in some way but silicone spray would be fine AFAIK.
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
Re: dealer stuff like undercoating, I thought most dealers just contract that out to a local detailing shop?
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 05:17
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:I need some new headlights. Halogens, not HIDs. Slidebite suggested Parang Nightbreakers. Any other suggestions for particularly, far-shining bulbs? I'm a small car, so I'm not too worried about blinding people. But at least I'm not one of those people that puts HIDs on their lifted truck and then forgets to turn,off their high beams. We get a lot of those. Sylvania for me.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2015 23:57
|
|
|
Armchair Calvinist posted:My friend and I are starting a business and he's looking to front 5-6k for a company car. The business is B2B in-person sales for the Orange County/San Diego area so there will be a lot of travel. Is 5-6K the total cost of the car or are one of you pitching it as well for this to be your vehicle for out of work? If that is the case, how much total are you looking to spend? For 5-6K I'd say get a camry/civic/corolla.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2015 17:28
|
|
|
Extra posted:what's the worst that could happen if I "fix" a very slightly bent (e: alloy) wheel with a propane torch and a 4 lb deadblow hammer? I would expect the heat would warp it more and the deadblow wouldn't be enough to beat it back into shape. Let us know!
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2015 20:25
|
|
|
My 07 GTI has the same problem. Can we vagcom this?
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2015 16:45
|
|
|
Cig lighter is a good circuit to pull the 12v from in my experience. It is already fused.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2015 01:40
|
|
|
PDP-1 posted:I've got an '04 Jeep Wrangler X and a set of mirror relocator brackets that bolt onto the sides for when I have the top off and half-doors on. The brackets mount on some factory Torx bolts that are painted and countersunk, and every time I mess with them the Torx wrench bites through the paint layer exposing the metal below causing the bolt to rust a bit. After ten years of repeating this procedure the nibs of the Torx sockets rusted out badly enough that one of them stripped clean off when I tried to remove it (top bolt in pic below). For that bolt, drill it in just enough to use an EZ-out. If you don't have them, buy some, they're great.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2015 02:26
|
|
|
Toshimo posted:Hey, autogoons. I had a pretty gnarly oil leak and took it to a shop recommended by a dude I work with. Long story short, I just got the car back after a week of failed promises as to when it was actually going to be done, and I'm wondering how much I got ripped for in the end? That's about the amount I'd expect to pay for that work. e: Do you realize that they also did the timing belt/water pump which is a big service item usually due every 100k kms/60k miles? That's more than just fixing a leak, and definitely worth doing if your car had 67k miles on it without having had it done already.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2015 19:41
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:USDM cars typically recommend it around 90-120k, or 7 years. So it wasn't due by mileage, but it was massively overdue by age, and that timing belt was likely dry rotted to hell and just waiting for someone to sneeze. I actually am back into a USDM car thanks very much  . Sold the RHD STI for $1,600 more than I paid for it and bought a 07 GTI with 53k Kms on it for $10k.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2015 17:21
|
|
|
Hikaki posted:I have a 97 Miata that's going to need new tires soon. It's on stock size right now at 185/60/14, but it looks like there aren't many good options for summer tires. The best I've seen (other than Star Specs which are too much for daily driving) are the Yokohama S-Drives, but the closest size they come in is 185/55/14. I don't know poo poo about tire sizing; will I be able to run these? Is there a catch/compromise, like worse traction/treadwear? I can't imagine that a slightly smaller sidewall would affect much but what do I know. Do you live somewhere you get a lot of rain? If yes, I'd recommend the ExtremeContact DW tire from Continental. Love it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2015 21:40
|
|
|
wormil posted:Very helpful but would that cause the loss of power? I'm not finding much on this sensor other how to replace it so I'm not sure what it does. It communicates the speed of the tranny or output shaft to the computer that decides what to do with the solenoids and loading and such within the tranny. I had this sensor go bad on a 95 ford explorer I used to own and it also was down on power, hard shifts as well. Do you have a flashing CEL?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2015 04:27
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 5, 2024 00:24 |
|
|
As a general rule with painting it is always better to paint things when they're apart. In the case of a motor you have to be careful with masking obviously with mating surfaces and threads. I think you just have to look for stuff that is specifically rated for high-temp. There are probably actual engine paints out there that you should look into. To be honest I really think you should look at powder coating, it's not that expensive and it's going to last way way longer. You'd be looking at some kind of acid/stripper bath or something to prep the parts for primer/paint.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2015 05:32
|
|