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Tldr: where do you buy tools that they don't sell at chain car part stores. Hello - I have an old 1970 cutlass supreme SX, I am trying to troubleshoot transmission slipping. It has a turbo hydromatic 400. Luckily I have an old factory chassis service manual that has all kinds of great info, including tons of flowcharts, the first step of each of them is to measure the oil pressure at 1000 RPM and cycle through the transmission settings, then move on to test vacuum etc depending. So even though I don't really know what I'm doing I'm confident and having a good time figuring it out. I can't seem to find anyone to sell me a pressure gauge that goes up to 165-200 psi. All the gauges I can find at stores top out at 100psi but my book tells me 165psi + is the normal run pressure. This tool can't be uncommon - this seems to be a common GM transmission. Where do you typically buy tools like this? I am in Seattle so I am sure there is a store that has this type of stuff but my web search skills are failing me, looks like I'll have to order something. I guess I could build one with McMaster-Carr parts. Thanks! This is my first AI post I hope I didn't brake a rule. Giganticon fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jul 15, 2021 |
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Jul 15, 2021 22:44
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My sister has a 2018 Corolla she put in a ditch on its side, one of the airbags went off but damage was light. Insurance declared it totaled but she had it repaired anyways out of pocket, front passenger wheel/suspension was damaged but mechanics claim they were able to just replace damaged parts as nothing critical got bent. They also replaced the spent airbag. This all took about a year as the mechanic was a friend of an ex etc good old boy network, in the meantime she got a different vehicle, she is planning to get rid of the Corolla. I was considering taking it off her hands to use as a daily driver. This leads to my stupid question - her mechanic told her that the last step that needs to be done to get this as good as new is to recalibrate the airbag. My sister has told me that the seatbelt is seized - it won't extend of retract. I don't think calibrating an airbag is a thing, so I looked it up - I think what is going on is because she rolled her car there is a unit with accelerometers or something in it that trips when a car rolls. I assume that is what has locked up the seatbelt? Because if you are upside down it doesn't want to drop you? These units can be reset but you have to move them into different positions to tell it what is upright, which sounds like it could be this calibration. Or maybe by calibrate he just meant tell the computer the new airbag's ID? I assume you just need a Toyota computer interface that knows how to do this. If its not clear all of this info has been filtered between 2 people neither of whom knows much. Here is my confusion - the mechanic seemed to indicate that if this could be reset the resale value would be very high, but now it is pretty low. He suggested she sell it for 6k, but if she could sell it to a mechanic they could get more like 11 or 12, its low milage and in good shape. So why didn't he just reset the thing? I suspect because this work was done not on insurance this has a clean title, but if you use the Toyota computer to reset the "flipped in a ditch" sensor it might somehow activate a branding of the title. Do mechanisms like this exist? Seem like they should to protect people. I think his scheme is to leave that last step undone so she could hypothetically do something tricky to hide the wreck if she so choses. Does this seem plausible? Is this worth digging into? I'm planning to buy it from her, reset the seatbelt and have it inspected to make sure last mechanic was correct about suspension, and then use it as a commuter and if that's the case title brands don't matter. But even so if doing that halves the resale value I want to go into that with eyes open, maybe give my sister a chance to actually make some money off it instead of taking her car for half price. Thanks for the advice goons.
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Mar 9, 2024 20:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:Mechanic sounds a bit full of poo poo here, and even if not, trying to pass off a car that had a significant crash as if it never happened is scummy. She did not take a payout. Thanks for the reply, it confirms what I suspected, and I appreciate the info on the seatbelt. Didn't make sense a computer would do that. I'm going to treat this as a cheap car because it was crashed, which is what it is.
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Mar 9, 2024 23:07
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