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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
If you're in a place where there isn't an emissions inspection, you don't need to replace it.

A used/reman cat will probably work in the short term as well.

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

abelwingnut posted:

i guess another random question. some jags have the actual jaguar hood ornament. some, like this, don't. is that optional? or something that changed throughout the years? something individual to each car?

I assume you are referring to what is known as the "leaper" - the full cat that sticks up above the hood. That's gone since 2005 due to pedestrian impact standards. Before that, generally available as an option either as part of a trim package or as a stand-alone depending on the year.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Suicide Watch posted:

I was in a fairly minor front-end collision that mainly damaged my car's bumper cover, radiator mount, and hood. I want to get this fixed asap but not in a way that screws me over given the car's age (2006 Volvo XC70), and as such I want to have a shop fix the radiator support mount and hood while leaving myself with the bumper cover work (I've previously removed and repaired the bumper cover before when I hit a snowbank)

I have an estimate for the total repair job from insurance's collision shop, but with the car's age obviously it's totaled and I'm going the salvage/repair route. They've also sourced a lot of OEM parts that I could find aftermarket for much less (ie. aftermarket headlamp L+R set for $360 on Amazon vs theirs $315 each for OEM, or a radiator support mount for $90 vs dealer at $723). I also don't care about paint-matching the hood hinges or scrapyard hood (for now at least)

My questions are:
- what should I expect for as a labor estimate for the radiator support? Should I have them source one (used or aftermarket) or can I bring my own aftermarket one? If the former, any ways to make sure they charge me for a scrapyard/aftermarket one and not a dealership one?
- is it common for/would the shop be okay with a partial repair of the car up until the bumper cover (ie I do the grille, fog lights, cover mounting) or would they take that unkindly?
- what kind of shop (body shop or auto repair) should I take the repair to? this job largely seems like a parts swap of the damaged pieces hood, radiator mount/supports, condenser (maybe)

On the estimate, you should have an R&I labor time for the radiator support. It'll be a number like 2.3 or something that will be on a line either right before or right after the part number for the radiator support. This is the total book time in hours. Labor times are highly standard.

You can ask to BYO aftermarket part but keep in mind that the shop makes margin on parts, so they may not allow you to do so, or they may charge you to do so. They may also be able to source the part more cheaply than you can. You can make sure they are sourcing the right stuff by looking at the part type code on the estimate.

I would take the insurance estimate to the shop, and tell them that you are going to repair this as a customer pay repair job. Walk through the estimate with them and describe exactly what you want them to include in the repair scope. Tell them you want to use cheapest available. Some shops may not be willing to do a partial repair, but I am sure you can find a shop of sufficiently low quality that will allow you to do part of the work yourself. Any shop is going to draw up an estimate for whatever you ask them to do, so just have them do that and look at it carefully.

You should take it to a body shop since you are loving about with rad support. The good news is that body shop labor rates are way lower than mechanical.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Motronic posted:

I know this isn't BFC but.....if you have to borrow money you absolutely can not afford a $6,000 jag.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Erulisse posted:

Thanks! This is an interesting thing.
Do you have a lot of experience with these engines? Are there any more "caveats"? The car is said to be officially serviced at a dealership, with 130k kms (~80k miles).


I have a spare engine in another country. And like, half of the car. What's left from my dad's xk8 after his death. I had to scrap the car itself but removed a lot of stuff beforehand.
I do have a reliable daily, a semi-reliable one and was thinking if I should pull the trigger or nah. They were priced like 6-8k usd a few years ago but now are almost 12k, with this example being 6.
Very very interested in buying it but...Idk. Maybe my depression kicks in, maybe I will finally feel something again after buying it.
It's not like it's my first or last project car anyway...I will have to borrow money from family to buy it though but it feels like one of a kind right now.

dude this is like a May Day parade.

1) buying a jag won't fix your depression
2) armchair therapist and all but this is clearly related to the death of your dad... figure that out in a cheaper and healthier way
3) borrowing money to buy a (poo poo) jag

edit 4) you have a spare engine in another country, that's quite useful i suspect

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
on the other hand if you have an OEM platform sized budget you can definitely do it!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

gonadic io posted:

Hmm, thanks for the replies I guess I kind of knew that was going to be the answer. This is why all the various project car youtubers and stuff entirely ignore and don't even consider this stuff. I had hoped I'd be at an advantage over them because I do embedded microcontroller real-time programming stuff (and have no fear of canbus) and do know what an eigenvector is but alas.

I guess the next question is if I am okay driving around a car that's 40 years behind in terms of safety vs I guess modifying a new car instead of doing something from scratch? Or just scrapping the whole idea and picking some dumb hobby less likely to kill me, the people in the car with me, and the people in the other car or whatever.

Can I ask what you're actually intending to do? Like building a Seven/Locost is a perfectly respectable thing to do - you just have to be OK with the fact that if you get in the wrong kind of accident in a Seven (which is most) you die.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
it sounds like a cool project, you should do it! the odds of you getting in to a position where you kill yourself in a car accident are not real high because projects like this tend to never get finished, but you should go for it.

gonadic io posted:

(including electronicly simulated transmission and diffs etc)

why though? why do you want to take away the advantages of EV drivetrain

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
i meant why would you want to simulate a transmission, not why EV or even hub motors (I understand the theoretical advantages even if I don't really believe they're practicable)

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Justy for technical, convenience, or comedy reasons?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Brettbot posted:

Short version: Is there any reason not to buy a $3800 '68 AMC Rambler if I'm not a car guy but wish I was?

Long version: My first car was a '75 Dart Swinger, but after only a couple of weeks, one of the torsion bars broke and the condo that I grew up in had the car towed and junked because it was "non-operable". That was over 15 years ago and I've never owned another old car since, but I've been thinking about that car a lot lately (lockdown madness maybe). The most work I've done on my cars since then was changing the power steering fluid in my CR-V.
So anyways, I was on Craigslist the other day and saw this '68 Rambler about 20 minutes from me. Assuming there's nothing wrong with the car, would I be foolish to buy it and try to maintain it myself? I know nothing about AMC except that they're obviously less common than Dodge, Ford, Chevy, etc., are they particularly expensive or difficult? A quick look at eBay shows decent AMCs listed for $3-7K plus shipping.

Apologies if there was a better place to post this!

I think you should think longer and harder about what you want in an old fun project car rather than just buying random poo poo on craigo. At minimum hit up some AMC owner forums and see what's up.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Brettbot posted:

That's totally valid. What I really want is another Dart, of course, but this one was so close and seemingly cheap that it was tempting me. It would probably be best to wait and keep an eye out for a Dart. Then at least when it always needs attention, I'm more likely to stick with it.

If you want a Dart, buy a Dart.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Any particular reason for the Odyssey? You sound like a fairly good candidate for say, a LX. Probably rather do that then lift an Odyssey, which will take away a lot of the good aspects of the Odyssey.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
You'll have to do an alignment each time in both directions, I think. The tradeoff doesn't seem that worthwhile to me as the Odyssey will never be all that capable offroad, but if you are willing to invest the time it seems possible. Keep in mind Traxda suggest 3 hours for install which means the same again for removal.

Can you buy a crap 4x4 as a second car? That would probably be the most appealing solution to me.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Safety Dance posted:

What about an old Chevrolet Suburban or Ford Excursion? Both have tons of room. They're essentially trucks for hauling, but with seats installed you could move a whole passel of kids.

the brother wants safety and modern features so yes if he's willing to just... not have those things sure that would work

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

That’s why you have a passel of kids.

or don't have kids and don't care about safety, win win!

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

ryanrs posted:

OK, weird. I did not expect that.

There's a reason offroad specialty shops exist.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I presume the Outback is too tight? I have dirtbag climber friends that sleep in theirs but they're not so tall.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Probably easier and cheaper to do a BOF domestic van. You can import a Delica but they're not particularly cheap or thick on the ground.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

arbybaconator posted:

Speaking of 4Runners - does Toyota have any kind of partner pricing? For instance, Ford has x-plan, which gives you access to a slightly above invoice no-haggle price.

every OEM in the world has various partner pricing levels

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Are you not looking in to half-ton based vans for some reason? When I think of offroad van my mind immediately goes to like, E-series or the Express.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

MrOnBicycle posted:

Are "cut to fit" exhaust gasket materials a bad solution? Yes, the gaskets are drat expensive to get here (Sweden), which is why I'm asking. '98 S10.

someone from the US might be able to mail you a S10 gasket for not that much money

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Pull codes.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
i think grakkus is in the UK

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Grakkus posted:

I have (a bare minimum of) self respect so I won't be doing this! :v:

Thanks for the advice guys, auto it is. Been looking at old X5s, ML400s and the like. There was a nice old manual 4.0V8 Disco that looked good to me but if towing with a manual is going to be a problem then I'll pass on it

Tradie van of some kind?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
its gonna be that cheap because those guys are buying the stolen cats, for the record

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Touchless is the way to go for a rinse off that won't hurt paint.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

truavatar posted:

Edit: and since I'm gonna be in the market.... what's a good battery brand?

All batteries in the US are whiteboxed and made by a small set of manufacturers, I think the vast majority are either Johnson Controls or Exide. There might be a third brand in the mix. Basically, buy something in the right size and rating that fits your car that has a decent warranty.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Cretin90 posted:

Thanks for your thoughts.

I’m not sure how to seek out another opinion - the other Honda dealer in town has lovely reviews, and the independent Honda repair shop won’t work on this AC system. Supposedly the R1234yf is too high pressure for them to work on without expensive specialized equipment. Guess I could go to the other dealer.

I’m confident that the Honda Dealer I talked to could fix this issue correctly for $2,500, but I’m concerned that the issue will resurface in 1-2 years and they’ll blame it on an impact again. There’s basically nothing between the road and the intercooler which leads to fairly frequent impacts. This might just be my suspicious nature though... lol.

I’m honestly not sure if it was in a front end collision. It wasn’t reported on the carfax when I got it. They cited some scuffing on the bumper as reasoning for thinking it was a collision, but I haven’t had a collision since buying it and was able to buff out the scuffing with my jacket sleeve. It’s DEFINITELY possible though, like a previous poster said, that this car got into a minor unreported collision before I bought it. I bought it from a jeep dealer so I wouldn’t be surprised if they noticed the AC wasn’t working due to a condenser leak and they just filled it up with refrigerant and didn’t mention it.

While it's possible that something hit the intercooler while you were driving, if you hit anything hard enough to significantly damage the IC you hit something large and heavy. You would notice.

I think it's definitely possible/likely that the car was in a collision and isn't appearing on Carfax, or that someone (PO?) drove over something in the road and did the damage.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
op how much experience do you have with high power RWD cars

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

human garbage bag posted:

We all have to start somewhere. And just because I don't have driving experience doesn't mean I'm like a 16 year old kid, I've read and watched a lot so I have a healthy respect for powerful RWD cars.

good! i suggest you buy a viper and drive it stock for a little bit then you can mod it when you get bored :)

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

PainterofCrap posted:

*looks devil in the eye*



a small boulder the size of a large boulder.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Colostomy Bag posted:

Why not a turbine?

thermals

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
I think you can drop the entire hitch, right? That would allow you to secure it better and work some angles, maybe.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Safety Dance posted:

If you can remove the hitch, then you can get your car inspected and blast it with a torch at your leisure.

for whatever reason the OP is opposed to this

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Krakkles posted:

If you don't want to actually do a burnout

mods???

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Xarthor posted:

Where is a good place to buy reasonably priced wheels? Or maybe used wheels in good shape?

I recently bought a 2017 Acura RLX and it’s a nice car but the stock “fan” wheels are soooooo bad. I’ve never been a wheel guy, but these have to go.

I just want something more sporty looking. I don’t need high performance exotic wheels that cost thousands. Just something to make the car look less like a 90s reject.

Depends on what you want to pay of course but there are various internet websites that have nice options. I don't think junkyard takeoffs are a great option as they tend to be OEM, but the RLX shares bolt patterns with various other Hondas and Acuras so you might be able to find takeoffs from another car whose wheels you like. Downside: pretty much all modern Honda wheels are ghastly, so this will be hard.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Xarthor posted:

I’m completely fine with non-Acura or Honda branded wheels. I’m not a brand whore I just want non ugly wheels. I know TireRack is a popular site. Any other suggestions for websites?

ebay motors is pretty good tbh

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
there are advantages but the OP specifically did not like the style of the OEM wheels and to be honest Honda/Acura OEM wheels since roughly 2015 are awful

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Has the ambient temperature changed recently in your area? TPMS sensors can go a little haywire when it gets warm / cold suddenly. They can also get untrained, there should be a retraining procedure you can look up to sort them out. usually this involves some magic button presses and then a bit of driving.

otherwise, it's probably a safe bet that the dealer hosed something up.

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