|
Extra posted:Some friendly gentleman who seemed to know a ton more about automobiles than I did informed me all FWD cars with open differentials will eventually destroy the transaxle if subjected to regular loss of traction (spinning tires). Is this true? Reposting this from the last thread, I am wondering if I'm destroying my wife's car.
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2015 17:19
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 18:44 |
|
|
Stupid question: I'm browsing craigslist, looking for something to buy next year, when I see an ad for a 2001 Mustang GT. It advertises a new motor, with a bunch of new parts put on. But then I notice this pic:  I'm not very experienced when it comes to cars, but this looks like a belt was put on backwards to me. Am I wrong, or is the Mustang owner wrong?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2016 07:52
|
|
|
Oh, duh! I should have noticed the grooves were pulling a different pulley. Thanks guys!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2016 08:07
|
|
|
I'm just looking right now- unless something amazing pops up (in which case I'd post it in the craigslist thread and ask for advice), the wife has me locked on for getting a crapcan racecar in March. Thanks for the heads up on that gen of Mustang, and the Google Voice idea, never even thought of that.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 10, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
I've been looking through AI for the past few days, but can't find a Honda thread. Do we have one? I just got a 1991 Civic Hatchback and was wondering if there was a good thread.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2017 01:57
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:No dedicated Honda thread, aside from a build thread from doogle. Whatcha wanna know? Hondas back then were like legos, and there's plenty of us that know a bit about them. Nothing specific right now, just wanting to see what other goons did with theirs. I've heard the "Honda legos" phrase before; wondering what would be a good engine/trans swap in the future. This car is hella fun, even with ~70hp and blown suspension.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 30, 2017 18:21
|
|
|
Awesome, that's exactly what I was looking for! It'll definitely be a while away (this suspension has got to be sorted asap), but that info is what I needed to know. Was it you or Rhyno who had the $500 Civic?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 31, 2017 01:37
|
|
|
2007 Toyota Corolla, auto transmission, a little over 100k miles. With no warning, the engine started vibrating roughly while idling. It goes away with a little throttle, there is a slight tapping sound, and there is a small puff of smoke on ignition. All fluids look good, and I didn't see any loose hoses or cables. Any ideas what it could be? e: forgot to mention, NO Check Engine light. (I checked Torque to see if I could spy anything wonky in the sensor readings, but found out my OBD2 scanner is busted. Sad!) GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Feb 21, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2017 22:57
|
|
|
Can't say for sure that I've never seen smoke before. It was a lighter color, but so brief I couldn't tell if it was white or light gray.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2017 23:25
|
|
|
yup. oil was clean and full, too.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2017 00:08
|
|
|
bikesonyx posted:Can I ask a few questions: The tapping seems consistent with engine speed, yes. It may be normal noise though, because the idle is doing fine now. I really think I'm a goofus and forgot that I had the battery unhooked for a few hours when I installed a new radio yesterday. The ecu seems to have relearned how to not suck, and the car idles fine now. e: tapping went away when the engine warmed up. I'm a goofus. GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Feb 21, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2017 04:39
|
|
|
Hey goons! I'm going to South Korea for a couple weeks in October, any cool car stuff I can see/do with my father in law?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
Here's what might be a dumb question: 1997 Neon ACR My coolant all boiled out after my last autox, so I'm replacing my overflow tank, hoses, and radiator cap. I'm going to flush everything out, but my question is this- should I use the old hoses for the first few flushes, or all of them? Or just go ahead and put on the new parts and flush it with them on? I don't want to gunk up my new stuff if there's chunks of crud in my system, but I can also see how having old stuff on might encourage more gunk to end up in the engine.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2019 00:47
|
|
|
rdb posted:Check the head gasket before shot gunning parts. Back in the day those were known for popping them. The test kits are pretty cheap. Wouldn't a blown gasket have other signs of problems, like some coolant in the oil, or coolant on the spark plugs? Would a test kit need to be specific to my engine, or are they a generic item? Thank you and Motronic for the help!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 8, 2019 15:02
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Well it turns out I need a ODBII tool to reprogram keys on a Honda. Plus it seems theres a function to check how many paired keys exist as well. Hit up a Batteries Plus near you if you have one- we started cutting and programming keys last year and can usually check how many keys are programmed. If it was my store, I'd check for free. Clearing out all the other keys is possible as well, but there's gonna be a fee for that.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2020 18:43
|
|
|
Not working under a car supported by 4 jack stands is new to me, I've been working under my cars for a while doing that. I always give lots of shoves to the car from all four corners, but I've yet to have a scare. I dunno how you're supposed to get a car fully in the air if you're not lifting one end up while the other is already on stands too. I'll lift the front up, put stands under, then go raise the back to put stands under the rear. If I've been taking my life in my hands, someone please let me know I'm an idiot and tell me how I'm supposed to do it. e: vvvv oh thank Mammon, I'm not being a complete moron GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 16, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2020 18:57
|
|
|
Peeches posted:I need advice and instructions for repairing this! You'll need some extra wire, some wire crimp connectors, and a crimper (preferrably one with a wire stripper as well). I would solder it and shrink wrap it, but I have a soldering gun and experience doing that sort of stuff. But you can get a bit of wire, a crimper and some crimp connectors at Harbor Freight really cheap and fix that easy. Just do one wire at a time and make sure you don't mix them up and you'll be fine. e: beaten!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2020 00:44
|
|
|
Peeches posted:Are wire connectors the same color as the wires? How do I know which ones to buy? They probably won't be the same color- what's important is the size of the wire and it's fit inside the connector. You want it to go into the connector snugly, and stay put when you crimp it down. I'd recommend getting an assortment of connectors to make sure you get a good fit. My order of operations on this job would be this: 1. Pick a wire and snip off the damaged area. 2. Strip off the ends of the wires, exposing the bare cable. Look out for dark colored metal, that's a sign of corrosion. Yours look ok from the pic though. 3. Cut a length of new wire and figure how much I'd need. You probably want some more slack, but not so much that it hangs low and snags on things. Strip both ends. 4. Twist the existing wire to keep the strands together when you insert it into the connector. 5. Insert the existing wire into the connector. It should fit in smoothly, with very few (if any) strands sticking out. 6. Crimp the connector down. Give a small tug to make sure it will stay in place. 7. Insert the new wire into the connector and crimp it down. Again, give a slight (or hard as the poster above mentioned) tug to make sure the connection is solid. If there is a concern of wires shorting, or getting wet, at this point, you'd put on some shrink wrap and shrink wrap over the entire connection. I don't think you'll have that problem in your trunk, and most butt connectors have plastic insulation over them already, so shorting shouldn't be an issue. 8. Repeat steps 4-7 for the other side of the wire. 9. Repeat steps 1-8 for all broken wires. 10. Test operation to make sure the wires won't get mangled or yanked out again. Hope this helps! e: Hunter2's tips are really good
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2020 01:04
|
|
|
Unplugging the battery isn't a bad idea, although I'd probably do the job without taking that precaution (because I didn't think of it until something sparked at me). 10mm nut on the negative terminal. Loosen the nut, then pull the cable off the battery and tuck it somewhere that it won't make connection with the battery until you're done with your job. Don't undo the nut entirely, just enough to loosen the connector. e: thinking on it, as long at the taillights are off, and no one hits the brakes, you should be fine with the battery connected. I'm not an expert tho.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2020 01:09
|
|
|
spouse posted:To fix that body roll and lack of stability in turns, I'm wondering what would be most efficacious: Do I upgrade to coilovers, do I upgrade swaybars, something else? Both? Maybe just springs? I'm no expert, but no one replied to your post, so I'll take a stab at it and others can correct me when I say something wrong. To fix the body roll, improved swaybars will help tie the left and right side of the car together, so they reduce body roll from side to side. To reduce body roll forward and back, upgrading the springs or moving to coilovers will stiffen the suspension and keep the car more level in motion at the cost of comfort. Springs and coilovers will also help reduce lateral roll as well. The problems you describe with acceleration out of a corner sounds like a lack of LSD problem. Or you could go easier on the throttle until the car straightens out, I guess. No idea on price for any of this stuff, sway bars will definitely be the cheapest and easiest mod. I'd probably start there myself if you're happy with the comfort of the ride otherwise. You can get some super stiff springs and your car will feel like a gokart, which feels awesome when you're driving hard, but feels like poo poo when you're doing some daily driving. I'm sure some Z forums will have a bunch of advice on good suspension setups for your car.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2020 23:13
|
|
|
My 2011 Mazda MX-5 Miata is making a wailing noise from the front right wheel at around 45-55 mph. I mostly notice it while going in a straight line, but it seems like it's there whether going straight or turning in either direction. I know this is hard to diagnose without a video, but does anyone have any ideas? My guess is the hub/bearing going out (I'm a little over 80k miles and have done autox with this car for around 8 years) but there's no play in the wheel when it's jacked up. No other issues, just a howl that starts at 45 mph and goes away over 55 mph. I've rotated the tires since the issue started, so I know it's not a tire or individual wheel.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2020 03:39
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Ja, the fat lady is singin' Yeah, it does change pitch at speed! Looks like I have a new weekend project coming up soon. Thanks for the help!
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:No, but there's a slack, and the invite is in your PMs. Can I get an invite as well? AI is my car home, I can't hang out on m.net and neons.org is dead.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2020 18:36
|
|
|
SciFiDownBeat posted:Thanks, this is a great help. Didn't even realize that was a code I could look up. Now at least I know what's actually wrong with it before they try to rip me off. Here's an OEM Denso compressor on rockauto.com for a little under $500 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5702670&cc=1504998&jsn=409). You can certainly get cheaper ones as well (I'd opt for as close to OEM as I could afford), but the quoted price doesn't seem too crazy for a dealership. I'd check a different mechanic, but I'd expect no less than $750 for a job like that with a decent quality compressor. AC stuff is expensive, sadly.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2020 00:00
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:I got a 2012 civic si sitting on buddy club coilovers, and I’ve noticed recently that the steering is extremely fine at speeds 65 and over. Is there a way to “tighten” the steering or whatever so that turning the wheel by a centimeter or two doesn’t change lanes? I think getting an alignment done with some a little bit of toe in will help that. It sounds like you have a little toe out right now, so your steering gets twitchy at speed.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2020 17:28
|
|
|
melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I reuse those smaller clamps if they still feel tight. If they are loose or bent, obviously toss them, but I don't think putting a few seconds of pressure on them to remove them will distort them too bad. No idea if replacing he inner tie rod boot clamp with zip ties would be good though. I'd certainly try it if it wasn't too difficult to re-do if it ends up breaking off. But if it's something that took a lot of effort to get to, I'd spring for the expensive part so I don't have to do a difficult job twice.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 5, 2020 00:24
|
|
|
Put in an aftermarket gauge and unplug the speaker that makes a chime?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2020 04:01
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:What sorts of problems can i run into from my lowered car occasionally scraping the ground? You'll scrape the front if you take any sort of incline dead on. Approach from an angle and go slow. I have a 91 Civic that's lowered so much the mudflaps drag when cornering and a 2011 Miata that's at stock height and I scrape the front of it all the time. Just make sure nothing vital (oil pan, fumoto valve) isn't sticking down lower than your frame and you'll be ok. Both of my previously mentioned cars have fumoto valves and I've had no problems. All of this is assuming you haven't slammed your car so low that you only have a few inches of clearance. Good luck in that case.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 30, 2020 03:11
|
|
|
STR posted:As long as the car is in good shape, I'd find a good independent shop and get a used engine thrown in, if that cost is less than finding another vehicle that's essentially the same (year, kms, options, etc) including whatever it takes to get it roadworthy. Bolded part for emphasis. Of course a dealership will quote you way higher than the job actually needs to be. Any of my cars older than 5 years only go to the dealership if it's something the dealer is gonna pay for.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 4, 2020 00:21
|
|
|
Len posted:The driver outside handle just came off my fiancees 2009 Nissan Versa. Is that something I can potentially fix myself on the cheap or do we need to take it to a mechanic? I just did this a few months ago on my brother's 09 Versa. I didn't drill any holes like the other goon did, just followed a video online (this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol27YiguHXQ). We did have to pull the door card off, which wasn't hard. The toughest part was reaching inside the door to detach the latch and reattach it. I learned the door handles would come off if the cover over the lock (or where a lock would be if not on the driver's door) was damaged, and judging by how rare those parts were on the other Versas in the junkyard, it's a common problem. I snagged the few I could find and popped one on my bro's car. Maybe 45 minutes of work if you're completely inexperienced and less than $5 for the repair.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2020 17:34
|
|
|
Magnetic North posted:I just picked up a 2009 Prius, based on suggestions from the car buying thread. Now that I have gotten rid of the broken old car I don't care about, I am now suddenly concerned about my car roasting in the sunlight and only getting touched once a week because of Quarentimes. To that end, I was wondering about those sun shield things that look like a science fair project board covered in tin foil, but I haven't seen one used since I was young enough to be making science fair projects. I did some searching and found cheapo ones on amazon and some decent ones from some vendor called Covercraft. The main quality you want is something reflective, to reflect sun out of the car. My wife has the folding type, and it works ok. I prefer the fabric style ones that untwist, I found a nice set at Costco for only $10. Easier storage when not in use, and better coverage when in use. I drive a black car with weak AC in Texas, I have to use sunblockers or I will melt. And they do work, temps are usually ten degrees cooler than without.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2020 14:27
|
|
|
You could always get a lithium powersport battery and put adaptors on it for car battery terminals. I did that on my Civic and it held up fine, wouldn't recommend leaving the headlights or radio on too long without the engine on though. I did something similar for my Neon race car, but I changed the terminal leads to be more like motorcycle battery connections, so I just line up the wire lead and put a bolt through it to the battery. A lot easier than making a battery.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2020 01:38
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:So after I got new tein flex z coilovers installed on my 2012 civic Si, i’ve been hearing a knocking/popping coming from the rear suspension at low speeds (particularly when turning into a driveway) and when going over bumps. I took it back to the mechanic who installed some rubber sheaths on the springs (which are divorced from the dampers in the rear), but they’re just as noisy. If the problem is indeed coil binding, is there anything else I can do to fix the noise? Would adjusting the spring pre-load possibly help? Any other ideas on the source of this noise? I would send whoever sold you those coilovers your picture and see what they say. Your springs should not be crunched together like that, they are effectively doing nothing if that's how it looks while sitting still. Might be you got sent the wrong set, could be a manufacturing defect, maybe installation error even.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2020 15:13
|
|
|
DildenAnders posted:What is the point of an overdrive off switch? Turning overdrive off puts our car into lower gears, which can be helpful in low traction or going up or down inclines. I usually turn mine off when going down an incline to help keep my speed from going too fast while not riding the brakes. It's especially useful for towing situations.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2020 16:19
|
|
|
Bruc posted:My car battery on my 2012 Jetta just died and when looking online about buying one I saw I may need to take it to a dealership to have it done because my keys wont work (keyless entry) because the memory won't be saved or something?. I only saw one thing about it and am not a car guy at all so I don't know how true this is, I've always just installed batteries normally but not on this car yet. The battery store I work at has a little battery box that plugs into your car's OBDII port while the battery is replaced. Because there's still current getting to the computer, all settings are preserved. Disclaimer: last time I used it was on my car, and while the radio settings were saved, the car's computer reset; so it doesn't always work. I don't remember about a 2012 Jetta having that problem, but I'm not at work today so I can't double check. I know I've swapped many Jetta batteries of that era without using a battery box with no issues. I'll double check myself tomorrow if no one else has chimed in by then.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2020 23:29
|
|
|
Bruc posted:My car battery on my 2012 Jetta just died and when looking online about buying one I saw I may need to take it to a dealership to have it done because my keys wont work (keyless entry) because the memory won't be saved or something?. I only saw one thing about it and am not a car guy at all so I don't know how true this is, I've always just installed batteries normally but not on this car yet. Double checked myself now that I am at work, and no mention of any loss of key fob memory when changing the battery. You should be fine to change the battery yourself.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2020 15:52
|
|
|
PawParole posted:I broke the (front) bumper of my friends 2020 corolla, and the plastic Splash Shield came unstuck. Could be as cheap as some plastic clips, or could be over a thou to replace the whole front bumper and get it repainted. If you're just trying to reattach the splash guard, I'd look into plastic clips and zipties if your friend is ok with that. Otherwise, I'd probably contact my insurance and make a claim.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2020 03:50
|
|
|
Undertray. Some cars won't have an extensive one that goes very far back, some cars don't have one at all.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2020 01:05
|
|
|
Motronic posted:This right here. Unless you are buying a sealed AGM battery, which will hold up better to deep discharges and self discharge. AGM batteries will have more lead and no liquid acid to evaporate, so they typically last longer. But in OPs situation, an AGM would be pointless- just hook up a tender when not being used for a while and you'll hit another 7 years easy.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2020 20:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 18:44 |
|
|
Motronic posted:AGM is not a "grade", it's a completely different battery technology. There aren't any brands that have a top warranty tier of SLA/FLA batteries that magically tops out with an AGM. ah, I get what you're saying. I sell batteries, and have had customers refer to AGM batteries as "high grade" before.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2020 00:20
|
|