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Protip: don't throw parts at a car. Protip II: don't get it serviced by the dealer, unless you have a warranty, in which case, keep your receipts even if you get it serviced by the dealer. Case in point: Hyundai.
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Feb 7, 2015 23:17
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I request an epilepsy-inducing animated tag.
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Feb 8, 2015 09:22
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Hyundai: You took your oil cap off and added a quart once in the middle of a 1000 mile road trip? Warranty void. Or so I understand.
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Feb 13, 2015 12:22
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My rear brakes squeak a little on hard stops. They squeaked all of the time, so I took the drums off (including purchasing an impact gun and 36mm impact socket specifically for this job), cleaned out approx. 1200 pounds of brake dust, verified brake shoe thickness (still good), then reassembled everything. They didn't squeak at all for, maybe, two miles of driving, then started right back up. I guess I'll just have to deal with it. I mean, heaven forbid I drive a car without embarrassing myself. (Who am I kidding? It's a beetle, I should be constantly embarrassed)
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Feb 16, 2015 19:00
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Is that kind of like the super beetle's front sway bar? I've heard people say it has an "impossible" front suspension. Is that because the sway bar is the only thing triangulating the control arm?
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Feb 19, 2015 01:14
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If they only have a certain brand in stock, then that's fine. Also remember, mechanics are a business and need to make a little money.
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Feb 19, 2015 20:10
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Hoo boy don't look up what that $800 pair of glasses I sold your mother costs if you think 100% markup is insane. There's a reason 100% markup is called Keystone pricing.
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Feb 19, 2015 21:18
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I guarantee that $800 pair of glasses cost me less than $40, sometimes less than $20. I'm not saying anything specifically, but the price is what the market will bear. If they're pricing things at twice retail, then it must be working for them to have the habit of doing so. Not saying it's right, but it's up to each business owner to decide how they're going to make their profit, and which market to cater to.
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Feb 19, 2015 21:34
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Cage posted:99 ford explorer 4.0 sohc You're overheating your car, most likely.
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Feb 24, 2015 21:33
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Real cars have a cable clutch 
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Mar 2, 2015 08:07
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Raluek posted:
If that happens, I take some needle nose pliers (or a leatherman or something) and twist the clutch cable up a little bit in a spot of free play, then run a zip-tie through the loop. Temporarily tightens it enough for a trip home, or sometimes breaks the cable 
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Mar 2, 2015 09:22
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Years and years ago, when my fiancee was moving from New York to Idaho, she went to a uhaul location and they installed a trailer hitch on her 98 Explorer, and rented her a trailer. She made it to El Paso (going through Phoenix, then up) when there was a problem with the trailer wiring or something, so she went to the closest uhaul location to have it fixed so she could continue her journey. They politely informed her that they can't rent trailers to her era of Explorer (company policy or something), and promptly confiscated the trailer and dumped her poo poo in the lot, and told her that it wasn't their problem. gently caress uhaul forever.
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Mar 4, 2015 18:13
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The bright silver box fancy ones are rated for 80 hours, where the cheap purple or blue box ones are rated for hundreds of hours.
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Mar 10, 2015 20:39
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zundfolge posted:Has anyone here ever seen an aftermarket battery terminal that looks like the one in this picture? This?
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Mar 11, 2015 02:05
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bolind posted:Going to do spark plugs on an Opel Astra H 1.6 tonight. Anyone know what the torque spec is? I do whatever is on the box of the spark plug. Gasket, tight plus a quarter turn. Wedge, tight plus an eighth.
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Mar 19, 2015 14:51
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Note, the passcode to my knockoff dongle was 6789 or 4567 or something, not 0000 like standard. This wasn't documented and I thought it was broken for awhile.
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Mar 25, 2015 11:54
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Ghetto wasp trap. Container with a funnel on top pointing inwards, with a slice of lunchmeat ham at the bottom.
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Mar 26, 2015 02:09
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PaintVagrant posted:Wasps like ham, eh? I used it plenty of times to refill my wasp traps (those yellow cones/cylinders you put bait into), and it works beautifully. I read about it somewhere years and years ago and turns out it works. There's probably something less-messy, but whatever.
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Mar 26, 2015 04:02
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Even Jay Leno has problems finding good heads for his straight-8 dusenberg engines. I think in his latest dusenberg video (like two years ago) he said he spent a fortune having one custom machined.
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Apr 7, 2015 05:16
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It's like $25 at a shop, max, even if you buy your own.
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Apr 10, 2015 21:34
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cr0y posted:big Choose two.
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May 11, 2015 13:24
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All holes do is create areas for heat cracks to form.
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May 13, 2015 15:58
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
If you shine a flashlight so the top edge of the focused beam touches the ground 500 feet away, it doesn't matter how bright the bulb is, because it will still only go 500 feet before hitting the ground.
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May 19, 2015 16:42
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Parts Kit posted:2002 Ford Escape, v6 engine: engine light came on, code indicates one of the upstream 02 sensors is bad. Local chains want $45 per sensor for what is $25 per on Rockauto or Amazon. Would it be risky to the engine to operate it as is while the parts come in or would lovely gas mileage be the only concern? We're talking a week, tops. Replace the sensor, but if you have the 4.0 and the problem comes back with the same or a different sensor, I may have bad news for you.
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Jun 24, 2015 16:10
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I assume for things like transmission problems/codes you could be the type of person that "predicts and assists" (easing off and/or applying more throttle, based on grade and load, kind of hard to explain?) the automatic transmission at the shift points, whereas a person you lend the car to doesn't know how it behaves, and a transmission that's on the edge of throwing a code with you could struggle with someone who hammers it or babies it. Maybe? I had a 96 Acclaim that the PO clearly didn't use the proper ATF+4 in for a few thousand miles, and when I drove it I could predict its bad behavior and "help" it through shifts by jamming the throttle a bit near the shift point and cause a harder shift, that it could handle. Then my friend drove it and it slipped and missed shifts all over the place and pitched a fit.
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Jul 22, 2015 01:13
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blk posted:At what mileage should I consider a suspension refresh? I'm thinking about my Saabaru in particular and am not sure what I should look at/replace besides bushings - springs and struts? Anything else? 70-100k depending on road quality and butt fatness
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Jul 25, 2015 09:45
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Which 110v HF welder was the only not-poo poo one for auto body use again? I can't find the posts about them. I just need to do some replacement body panels on the bus, and I'll be learning at the same time. I'm also assuming an angle grinder is appropriate for old rusty panel cutting at odd angles, right?
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Aug 14, 2015 20:38
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Pham Nuwen posted:Sounds like a pretty tall order but if such a thing exists I might get one too. I thought there was one. Like, one.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:04
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Speednut?
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Aug 15, 2015 00:05
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Bovril Delight posted:Also because nobody wants to put their kids in that death trap. Hey, the kids will be just fine, protected by the engine from the rear and the parental crumple zone in the front.
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Aug 15, 2015 17:44
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok here's one that's probably quite stupid. On a lot of Chryslers, I think I recall that being something for a remote start option.
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Aug 19, 2015 19:52
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1973 VW bay window bus. I have a leak in my new master cylinder, but I'm not sure if it's a real leak or I'm doing something wrong. 211611021AA - Master Cylinder, Dual Circuit, For use with Power Brakes from SoCalImport I tried reseating it, and checking o-rings, but this is a constant, slow drip. One big drip every five seconds or so that I can stop by putting my finger over it. Pumping the brakes does not make it worse. Is there supposed to be a plug for this hole, or is this a faulty cylinder, or what? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Aug 27, 2015 |
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Aug 27, 2015 07:32
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Allegedly new
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Aug 27, 2015 08:01
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kastein posted:Just need to get the drat bridgeport up and running so I can make the adapter plate and the lathe running so I can make the adapter shaft, that's all Do you know who has a brideport and works magic with a combination of candiadian redneckery and PHD education? AvE.
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Sep 3, 2015 08:13
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You're stupid for thinking about an element, and you need to buy it because I love them for some reason.
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Sep 6, 2015 02:31
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Dielectric grease is non-conductive. All it does is prevent arcs in unexpected places around connections. As long as all of your connections are mechanically sound, then there should be no issue. How are your grounds?
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Sep 9, 2015 07:59
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I wouldn't buy a car from a person who blacks out headlights
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Sep 12, 2015 19:40
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Also grease, a bungee cord, and a 10mm.
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Sep 15, 2015 06:58
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Is it the original battery?
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Sep 21, 2015 03:40
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 04:02 |
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(Speaking as a 98 Explorer 4.0 SOHC owner with 214k miles on it) Bad electrical connections can seriously break the Explorer, especially if a fault occurs when the center diff is switching between modes, as it uses an electric motor connected to the cheapest plastic arms ever created, bathed in a very hot nasty oil. Also, they are in a difficult to access spot. Ask me how I know If you live in an area that gets winter salt, or is plain humid, it's worth your time and money to buy two cans of deoxit, a few feet of braided ground strap, and some 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch screw crimp connectors. Get underneath, and replace every ground strap that you find. Do not be surprised when they literally disintegrate (my video) when you go to move them. Some of them may also be just crimp connectors with no strap left between panels and frame pieces, so keep an eye out. After doing that, while you're under there, carefully unplug every connector, even the O2 sensor connectors, and spray them out with deoxit and reconnect them. On the interior side, if you have to replace a dash bulb, like the backlight bulbs, do the same thing with the big 40 pin or whatever it is dash connector, as well as whatever portions of the circuitboard are exposed during the bulb replacement. Removing the center console is also fairly easy, and there is a 12 or 18 pin connector somewhere in the middle of the console between the bottom of the radio/pocket area and the E-brake (depends on trim level) that usually has one side of the connector attached to a metal backing plate. This connector runs power for your radio, the map lights/compass/thermometer, your auto-dimming rearview mirror, and (strangely) is also tied into the cruise control system. Deoxit this one, too, and you will save yourself hours and hours of headaches down the road when random poo poo stops working or you get a CEL with weirdass codes. Again, ask me how I know. The rear windshield washer hose tends to crack both right at the nozzle behind the wiper arm, and inside the rear door where it crosses over into the vehicle. Check it out to make sure it's not leaking, as the water leaking down into the rear hatch or the passenger brake light area on the body side can cause so many problems. On the engine side of things, if you've got a spare three or four hours, and you have the 4.0 (either variant), I would recommend replacing both intake manifold gaskets. One is six individual O-rings, the other is three O-rings that have two ports each, like a weird figure-8. IIRC (I did this in January) I needed some larger Torx screws, like T-40 and T-45, as well as one E-torx (torx socket), but other than that it was really easy, in a "it's just a series of bolts in sequence, no one-time-use fasteners or any other bullshit" way. I also used that opportunity with the engine cover and poo poo off to lubricate the cruise control and throttle cables. Whether or not you're going to do the intake gaskets, I highly recommend (actually, I'm making this one required) doing the PCV valve mod. This replaces the bullshit Ford one with a standard $3 one from Autozone, as well as adds a few inches of hose to take it out of the bowels of the firewall. I did my PCV valve back when the truck had 160k miles after going through a stock PCV valve every 20k or so, and I did it without removing the upper intake, which meant I was flying blind and feeling around for poo poo. Haven't had to touch a PCV valve sense. If you just have 20 minutes to waste and want to do the most basic thing, go right now and check to be sure all of the intake clamps and boots are on tight. Carefully inspect how tightly the air temperature sensors are in the intake hose. The hose hardens and if you can spin them in their push-to-fit fittings, then you should pop them out and coat the outside of their bases with some RTV. IIRC on one of them there is enough of a flange that you can put a small hose clamp on it to ensure that there are no air leaks. The Explorers love to get hard (phrasing) intake rubber (phrasing) and leak a little bit everywhere, which kills drivability and idling stability if even a tiny bit leaks in.
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Oct 7, 2015 07:25
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